I like the idea. I have a key now, but the problem is that no matter how tight I seem to get it, guests always have trouble turning the key (it catches a little) and they end up rotating the barrel.

Something like one of these should be cheap, easy to install, and cool:

https://www.amazon.com/Etopars-Momentary-Headlight-Button-Stainless/dp/B07MK2394L/ref=sr_1_34

https://www.amazon.com/ESUPPORT-Stainless-Symbol-Button-Waterproof/dp/B00ZR7MOU0/ref=wl_mb_wl_huc_mrai_3_dp

Funny you should ask because I put in an order for one like this today. I have the key mod, but I don't want some douche taking off with the key at TPF. So, I'm sticking to the button when the machine is out in public. Another option is use some sort of adhesive in the key hole to bind the key in place. Maybe hot glue? I fear that the thinner adhesive material i.e. Super Glue would flow to other components in the shaft and keep the keep from turning altogether.

I had the same issue , it looked really cool but the key would turn the whole barreI , I liked how it lit up but as the Capn said I was also worried about the key going missing . I saw the engine start button when I went to buy a lite up button for my fish tales .
IMG_20200229_184106 (resized).jpg

From your links it looks like you're in Oz , go to Jaycar and check them out , they're very cheap

Which one did you buy?

Also, I’ll be at TPF on Saturday, looking forward to seeing your Getaway.

You’re a genius - nailed it!

So I first checked incoming voltage to accel board and it was dead. Removed plug from J115 on PDB which is what drives it and checked board voltage and it was good. Then I noticed that I had a wire harness on J115 to power my Pinduino and the connector leading to the accel board plugged into that. So, I checked voltage at the harness connector and it was bad. Removed harness, redid the wire crimp (the type where the wire just pushes down from the top into a channel that cuts the insulation and makes a connection with the wire), retested voltage successfully, put new fuse in and powered on without blowing it, tested all optos and SC successfully, then played a game and now I’m back in business.

Thank you for your expertise, and taking the time to help me. (btw, that’s not me kissing you - just someone you love putting a smile on your face).

Sorry, but I’m not understanding your Australian language. I’m in Texas, USA, and those are Amazon links for ones less than $10 (what I would consider cheap).

BTW, love the Tasmanian Devil.

Which one what? The key mod or start engine button?

Start button, the one you said you just ordered (I have the Mezel key mod).

Ordered it off amazon. Should be here tomorrow. I'll install and show everyone how it looks - or even works for that matter.

I was getting worried for a minute.

Playball!!

I figured as much, but there are several on there - just wandering which one you chose. I can wait until you get it installed if you don't want to share yet. Theoretically, should work just fine so hopefully pretty straight forward for you.

Guys, having a frustrating problem with the first switch on the loop shot (both switches from either side of the loop). Sometimes the ball will get a little hung up on the metal switch actuator. It prevents a clean loop shot. Maybe happens once in 10 shots. but frustrating. I have tried to bend the switch up down a little, but then if I bend too much, the switch doesn't register when ball rolls over.

Do I have the right actuator on this switch?

Here is pic. my game has top actuator. Do you have the top or bottom actuator on your game? Or a different one? Thanks for help.

actuator (resized).jpg

This menu is referring to the super charger correct? Shouldn't they all be enabled?

I end up trying one of those big coils, not sure if it was just it's time or not.

I am having the typical problem with the diverter ramp closing too early so the ball hits the end of it and goes back down the ramp. I added springs, changed the link, cleaned the shaft and plunger. I am wondering if the switches closed when they shouldn't be and the fact that the coils are disabled has anything to do with it.

Thanks in advance

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The way the menu works is that you can test the magnets one at a time, two at a time, or all three. Therefore, you control the enabled/disabled status. Enter the mode by pressing the right button then you the center buttons to scroll through the various enable/disable options. Make the setting you desire, then roll a ball through the supercharger to see if that/those magnets are working. As the ball passes by the relevant opto, you will also see it close and open.

FYI, this does not set the magnet status during actual game play (all 3 will always be working), only during testing.

Thank you for clarifying that, makes sense.

Now, I am concerned about your opto status. If there is no ball shooting through there, the optos status should be "closed" then "open" as something passes by and breaks the line of site between the transmitting and receiving optos. If you think your SC is not performing well, then the issue could be bad optos. As the ball passes the opto, it briefly fires the magnet. So, if the opto isn't working, the corresponding magnet will not fire.

You can easily test by removing the cover of the super charger and passing a business card between the optos to see how they perform. There are 3 sets in the SC, 1 set on the ramp entering the SC, and one set at the right of the SC loop.

You can test the optos individually in the single switch test. You can see the 5 opto switch numbers in the far right column (#81, 82, 83, 84, 85)

These are known to go bad over time, so if one is not performing correctly you should first check the wiring and the opto terminals to make sure nothing has come loose, and if connections are good then I would just replace them (a fairly simple soldering job).
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See the #37 & #38 dots here for locations.
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Sometimes the opto's just need a good clean too

Well, yes . . . didn't mean to get ahead of myself. Mine had obviously never been replaced, so after two failed I just replaced all 5 sets about 3 years ago and haven't had a single issue with them since.

Hey Guys,
Been away for quite a while, did you miss me ? I see i have missed quite a few posts over the last year or so.

Of course, we missed you. Welcome back. Hope the absence was by choice and not some life altering event.

Welcome back! My collection has changed quite a bit since I picked up the Getaway as my second game. Up to 8 now

Welcome back

Hoarder!

Thanks guys!

Nothing life altering. Just took some time away from pinball to pursue other interests and did some travelling. Hoping to make it down to Allentown this year to kinda catch up.

Happy Monday! At last, my two new Pinsound mixes for Getaway are posted and available to download. I'm really proud of these.

First: The Crystal Method.

NOTE: This is a slightly NSFW mix. Replace the music files in 0252246587 and 0632683336 to
remove an F-bomb, heard when super jackpot is awarded and when entering initials.

MUSIC

The main theme is "Trip Like I Do" by The Crystal Method. Loops from this track have been
assembled to provide increasing intensity as the game progresses. Other songs used include
"Name of the Game," "Over the Line," "PHD" and "High Roller."

VOICE

All the "deep voice" callouts have been re-recorded by...well, by me. Discussion:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/203#post-5395830

The driver's "hop in" and "damn, they're shooting at us" are also voiced by me.

The hitchhiker and "woooohoo" is voiced by actor Mandy Michaels.

Download the Crystal Method mix here: http://pinsound-community.org/forum/index.php?/files/file/306-getawayhs2_the_crystal_method_spblat/

Second: Prodigy. Same spblat callouts with some adjustments.

Highlights:

6:50 "HE GOT AWAY!!"
9:42 The hitchhiker is having fun too
9:59 "I can't keep up with him!"
12:20 Super Jackpot music
14:35 Start of ball 2

MUSIC

THIS IS A 100% SFW MIX. No part of the song title is ever heard in this mix.

The main theme is "Smack My Bitch Up" by The Prodigy. As you play, you'll hear different sections of various remixes of the song (Major Lazer, SOM, and Noisia) with increasing intensity.

You'll also hear (SFW) excerpts from "Mindfields," "Funky Shit" and "The Day Is My Enemy."

Download the Prodigy mix here: http://pinsound-community.org/forum/index.php?/files/file/307-getawayhs2_prodigy_spblat_10/

Looking for some tech help.

Error messages for shifter, right and left slings, and all 3 red targets. All of Column 3 on the matrix. Figured loose wire.

I'm 100% new at this and have a couple local guys talking me through it. Very helpful.

So as I checked the green/orange wire continuity it checked out to all parts/switches. So no loose wire. (That I found)

I am not sure the best way to check the j206 pin 3 terminal and the switches for continuity there.

Anyone ever done this?

Playing without the shifter is a bummer but playing without the slings just takes so much more fun out of it.

Any help for the noob is appreciated.

P.s. I know ZERO about doing this stuff.

Test continuity from J206 pin 3 to each of the switches under the playfield in column 3. That will confirm if there is a playfield wiring issue. If there is good continuity everywhere, then the issue is likely on the MPU board. There is a step-by-step guide on Pinwiki which walks you through the testing process. It even uses column 3 as an example See here: https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Quick_Switch_Column_Strobe_Testing

Thank you sir!

Any suggestions on how to get to pin 3 AND the switches?

Long alligator clips!

I got everything tested from pin 3 to each of the switches. Only one not getting tone is the shifter. All others have tone/continuity to the J206 pin 3.

Shifter does not.

Now I'm new to this but ... It looks like the shifter is wired directly to j206. and then the green orange is also in j212 right next to j206. Are the rest of Column 3 from J212? The green/orange definitely goes directly from shifter to j206.

With all others showing continuity.... What now?

Any update on the start button install?

https://www.amazon.com/Jtron-Ignition-Switch-Racing-momentary/dp/B00RVBGHZS/ref=sr_1_4

This is the one I have installed. Only thing I don't like is that it doesn't light up. But it fits and works perfectly.

It does light up. That is what the third connection is for.

Looks great. Wonder if anyone has ever replaced the gauge below it w a real gauge? My gauge decal got damaged with a lock bar so be great to hide this area. Thanks.

Loving the color scheme on your pin - I also really dig the shifter!

Okay then, I'm going to order this one and give it a try. It has a larger 22mm barrel (the hole is 24mm), so I'm thinking it should fit a little better (plus I like the black).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071QWNBFN/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1

You could just re-decal the front (might not look good, however, with the rest of the cab depending upon how much fade you have). I can give you the source if interested that would professionally print you one.

Interesting how years ago everyone wanted to convert to turn key start mod...... I did a push button start on Mustang but like the checkpoint style key on Getaway.

I like the key, it's just that it is a pain in 3 ways:

1) The key can go missing with kids and guests.
2) No matter what I do to lubricate the key sticks often and requires force to turn.
3) When guests have this problem they just turn with more force and the barrel always seems to be rotated some no matter how often I re-adjust it and how tight I make it.

Once I have my push button installed, I'll be happy to sell my Mezel version (at a discount, of course).

Column 3 actually feeds two switch wires. J206-3 for playfield switches and J212-3 for cabinet switches. The shifter is a cabinet switch so it is fed by J212. Is there continuity from J212-3 to the shifter? If there is, that eliminates a wiring issue.

You will have to start inspecting traces on the MPU. Since column 3 is the issue, see if there is continuity from U20-16 to J206-3 for starters.

I had all those issues , it's a great idea , looks really good, but practically it can be annoying

Understood however the checkpoint key start mechanism is one piece and key can’t be removed from game.Also no binding issues ...

I had originally thought that the supercharger was not working correctly, one of the magnets smoked the last time, I replaced it seems to work good now.

I just bought that very game, picking it up Friday, this will give me more time to try it out.

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20200304_115507 (resized).jpg

Sorry, I wasn't understanding what you were saying originally. So Checkpoint has the turning key mech and you just adapted it to Getaway, and the key is non-removable?

Looks to be in pretty nice shape - congrats!

Correct . It’s a one piece unit.

8AAB29CA-2090-496D-9D7E-2DE4FE96D9A0 (resized).jpeg

I did not know about j212. When I get home I will run the test between the shifter and j212-3.

I think I checked u20, but I will double check it.

Thank you!.