It may be easier to find a printers to get some vinyl cut as a mask then respray yours.

I would suggest painting them yourselves if you have the skill and tools. I would remove them, spray them black, print a template on adhesive, cut, apply, spray orange/red, remove template and spray clear, re-install and call it a day.

Probably sounds a lot easier than it really is.

Thank you Grumpy for your help. I got the chip order and should be here Monday.

Replaced U20 and the shifter now works. Now my flipper are not working. Has to be something simple.

Check the ribbon cable from Cpu to flipper board. Check cabinet switch and EOS switches in switch test. You may have popped a LM339 chip on the fliptronic board when you popped U-20.

I am looking for used mou and power board

Are these still available @mr_tantrum, any idea about shipping to the UK ?

I have one professionally cut plastic remaining to pair with one more mountain (I also have one hand cut one, which is not as smooth). PM me with your address and I will provide a shipping quote.

Im looking for a flipper cabinet switch. The one at Marco's is sold out( https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-15058)
Is there an alternative switch that I can use?

Check coin taker site. Pretty sure I got mine there.

Sw1A -192 Cointaker has in stock.

I've been a club member for a few.weeks now, it's.my first pin and I love it. I'm working through everything, learning as I go, fixing on failures!

I notice a couple of empty holes on the underside right of the PF that look suspiciously like they are meant to have GI. But there isn't any wiring for it.

Could a kind club member, Pinsider confirm if I'm missing bits and bobs?

Much appreciated..

Rob

IMG_20191201_141557 (resized).jpg

Welcome! Those were left open for whatever reason but some of us have filled those in with sockets and bulbs and others have used led strips over the holes...

thanks tiltmonster appreciate that.

I think a couple of green LEDs in there would work well in the machine. I'll do some reading on how to wire that in

Ta

Spot the guy that just got a Getaway....Sorry for all the posts...I have now read 152 of the previous post pages from this thread.... but all your help has been gratefully received and acted upon!

Looks like my BALL LANE FEEDER ASSEMBLY is bent out of shape, I get a poor return into the lane, it bounces back into the trough quite often.

I assume these are meant to be straight arms? Or are they meant to have a little bend in them?

I think this is definitely why my scores are utter dog shit.. </sarcasm>

All help much appreciated

Rob

Screenshot 2019-12-06 12.28.17 (resized).png

The bounce back is not related to that arm being bent, IMHO. The Languide underneath the apron is what defines the angle of the ball entering the shooter lane and that is what needs to be adapted. Regardless, straightening that arm wont harm. The bounceback into the trough seems to be a common issue though.

I just wanted to thank everyone who purchased 3D mountains for their interest and support. Quite honestly, that ended up being a much larger effort than I initially expected (I'm really kind of tired of making them - the 24 hour print is not so bad, but I really dislike painting them for some reason). I've now sold out of the professionally cut mountain plastics, and for upcoming one-off orders I will be providing hand cut versions (I would need at least 10 orders for it to make sense for me to buy more cut ones).

I'm hopefully about to shut things down for the Christmas holiday, and give this elf some time off from making toys year around. So, if you want any of my mods before Christmas, now is the time to order. For the Getaway newbies, my items are all listed here: http://thezumwaltfamily.com/getawaypinball, and you can PM me with whatever you might be interested in for a final quote and payment arrangements.

I still gotta get the target stickers, the super charger sticker, and something else Im forgetting from you. Eugene is sending my boards back today so I should have a functional game again next week!

Dunno if you updated your files but I do have an ugly functional video mode working now

Actually, been out of town due to my wife's mom passing, so haven't been doing much pinball wise. Trying to get caught up, but have a terribly busy weekend. Even so, I'm eager to check out what you've done.

My condolences :/

Thank you.

I just gave your latest colorization a try . . . very impressive.

I'm not finding this at their web site. Or any web site. Truth be known, I'm not sure now what I need for the right handed flipper. What I have now is or looks to be a bumper switch. From what I have read so far, what I need is a duel switch? And how would I wire this up?? Got any pictures to help out with?

20191206_212938 (resized).jpg

Man not now! I still have 50 more pages to read in this thread before I can even wrap my head around what you have to offer!!

Sorry im out of town of town do I can’t check my game. That part number is avail on Cointaker. I found it on there.

That part number has three blades. $9.95 and there is a picture. Search switch on Cointaker.

Stock switch should have a quick disconnect. Does not look like yours has the factory one. Worst case just solder the wires together.

You are also missing a wire too.

Thx for coming back. I've straightened up the arm, seems to have helped and I've had a look at guide as well. There is a fair bit of movement in that whole assembly.

Maybe these photos will help?

leaf switch (resized).jpg

Outlet correct resized (resized).jpg

I mean who does this?

ohgodwhy.jpg

Other fun tidbits about this new-to-me machine besides the plunger hole somebody seems to have gouged out with a rusty spoon:

1) A switch fuse and a coil fuse had been replaced with automotive blade fuses, with an adapter soldered onto the fuse terminal

2) 943 minutes play time, 45,000 minutes on. That’s why my DMD board is cooked

3) The service buttons were flopping around loose, unscrewed from the coin door. The back button had stopped working and the workaround was to jam a pair of garden shears in to short the connection instead of making a repair

4) Dirty but perfect playfield. Diamond plate for the win!

I'm thinking about getting the ColorDMD but I don't know which one to get the LED or the LCD. What are the Pro's and Con's?

Uh oh, this again... this will end up being totally subjective. There are plenty of photos and opinions on both but I had an led (on my Shadow) and sent it back for LCD. I own 2 lcd screens and prefer their versatility. They don't fit like a glove like led but there is no white light bleed on the display and they aren't as bright which is ok for me because the led was too bright and gave me headaches. Either way it's a great upgrade

My input is this:

- Classic DMD games (like Getaway), I prefer the dot pattern of the LED version (resembles the original DMD).
- New DMD games with video and lots of animations, I prefer the LCD version (personally I cannot stand the enhanced mode or whatever it is called with the cartoonish look to it).

LED will be brighter, so much so that you might get reflections in the playfield glass. Filters are available to mitigate this. LED is a simpler install because the size is a perfect match, and some people think LED is better because when it’s black it’s totally black. The LCD uses a bit more power, and gives more options about how the images are processed. Big dots, small dots, square pixels, smoothing effects. I have LCD in my TZ. I love it but I’ll be using LED in my Getaway.

You will need to check some machines out and see what you personally like better. Some like the led, some don't. I installed an LED in Getaway and hated the way it looked compared to the LCD, but that is just my preference. Others really like the look.

This ^

LCD can do the smooth animations (some call it cartoonish) which I really like but it can do dots and xl dots too. In the end it's like Kawydud said, you'll have to decide for yourself

I vote LCD. A lot more options. I have both. Pretty well you can copy the LED look with the LCD anyway.

Funny, I am thinking of swapping out my LCD from my Getaway back to the original. Don’t really think it is worth it in a Getaway, rather use the dmd on my AC/DC.

You may want to consider PIN2DMD as well. A lot cheaper option but full colorization not there yet.

Other than the burn rubber maps (its done by a palette change instead of a full colorization) and a complete video mode, its done (I did it). There are 2 partial video modes, one where the mountain is done, and one where the dynamic car is done.

WOB did a vid of a near final build:

There is a glitch where the hitch hiker's hair turns brown on the VPIN but not on the real pin.

As for LED vs LCD for color DMD, it will always come down to preference. I prefer LED. And I think the 2x SAI (Scale and Interpolation) looks awful and my hate for it runs deep. I thought it looked like shit back when MAME did it like 15+ years ago

When I look back a couple of years ago when I undertook the Getaway colorization, made some progress, and then was legally threatened by ColorDMD and Planetary Pinball, I can't begin to express how impressed I am with what you have accomplished. I don't think that many truly understand the time, work, and creativity/problem solving you have dedicated to this. I know there are several of us who greatly appreciate you and your results.

Looks pretty complete to me. Great work! Hoping to try this once my PIN2DMD order arrives.

PIN2DMD looks to be very interesting but what about the legal end of things? Is your work and that of others transferable?

Couldn’t agree more. To each their own but I’ve always felt this approach (in pinball or in retro gaming) adds no information, makes no improvement, and detracts from the nostalgia of the source material.

I don't know about any of that legal noise but I will say it's pretty easy swapping out my ColorDMD to any of their supported games with a mere download and I'm all set...

Guys, I need some help.

My GHSII was my favorite game. But lately I am having an issue when I hit the top pop bumper the supercharger sound is played. It stays this way for a while. This is making game play a drag.

Not sure what caused this. At around the same time I installed a Pinsound and custom soundtrack I also blew a IC on the board by shorting the coil. I replaced the IC. Might have caused the issue then.

Any thoughts on what it could be?

My supercharger was also making noises when there were no balls in there. The cause was a loose opto emitter. I removed the supercharger cover and went into the switch test screen. Wiggling one of the opto emitters caused the switch to fire because the beam wasn’t quite making it through the hole across the channel. In fact several of the screws had started to back out. Tightened them back down again and all is well. Hope this simpler cause solves it for you. Maybe the shaker was the last straw getting those screws to start backing out?