(Topic ID: 78179)
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Getaway: High Speed II, The
Williams, 1992
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Quoted from MustangPaul:Nice.....now ya gotta get a couple of Comet 3 led 6.3v white strips for under the 2 gauges on top of the slings. You'll be amazed how they make the pf pop.
Thank you. I saw that mod, was that on your machine? It looked really nice
2 weeks later
Quoted from BigDan:Shhhh, keep that for mod on the DL to keep it extra special. Just kidding as this member knows whats up by his LED selection skills. He did green and red LED star posts where needed and kept the GI in white just like I did because green cop cars and street signs look lame.
I dig the color DMD but what happened to your Getaway specific pop bumper caps
I agree with what you said about green/red signs and cop cars looking "lame" when colored by LEDs and you have a sharp eye when it comes to the pop bumper caps! I have the originals but I was playing around with these starburst caps, I liked the way they threw out the light on that part of the playfield, it gives it a little more brightness, and the bulb doesn't standout like in the originals. Someday I may switch it back but for now I'm liking the extra pop while still retaining a semi-original look (nice catch).
Quoted from bumpnthump05:Here is a picture of mine I got a couple weeks ago completely led with a mountain mod that I just added
Hey, welcome! But I have to ask... where did you get that Mountain Mod? I've been looking but I thought that run was sold out and I haven't seen any pop up for sale.
BTW, I like the Neo Geo Arcade, good stuff!
Edit: Nice Arcade collection, the game room looks nice!
Thanks for the info, I'll see if I can touch base with him and get one to try out...
As for the Arcades, here's mine, I cheated a bit due to space and at the time when I bought this Ultracade pro with the 27" screen it seemed like a good option. Now crammed with 265 games into one unit is sweet but it's a dead end platform and I think we all know what happened with the creator.
The Neo Geo cabinet was trashed so I restored it and moded the control panel and front end. I had to de-case a 24" Sony Trintron for the monitor because I didn't like the fit or image of an LED especially with the old school games and I couldn't find a CRT to buy. I added my custom built PC so the unit acts like a Mame but honestly we just use it a music player.
It's funny because I was a vidkid back in my day and spent most of time in the Arcades. Pinball was the 2nd love but has now grown to my 1st, too bad they are so large and expensive! Oh well...
Yeah Im hard of hearing now, I can't imagine what that would do to me. Lol, awesome!
These are the Starburst caps with Comet twin smd red bulbs. The red matrix post lights add just enough to the hairpin turn but I'm tempted to add an led strip under the super charger...
Edit: frosted twin smd red bulbs
Quoted from BigDan:Anyone else sometimes feel like they should keep their mods on the DL so a bunch of people don't copy your unique one of a kind perhaps pin should you go to sell? IDK, when I mod my vehicles I don't usually go on the forums and show them off so people wont copy but that was in the past I don't seem to be that way with pinball, I probably should be though, because I have aspirations of doing some sort of modding/restoration online content review, but I don't know how I want to approach it just yet
I don't feel that way but I understand if you do; however, if that's the case many mods wouldn't even be available for sale like the Mt. Mod on your machine, they could have made just 1 for themselves and been done. The CFTBL has some of the best and most tasteful mods I've seen and it would be a shame if we never got to see them... I'm glad the pinball community is very open with this and very helpful, IDK, where my machines would be if it weren't for all the technical help I've gotten from Pinside
3 months later
Quoted from Mancave:INTERESTING
My machine never had a sticker in that spot when i bought it, was that a normal item on Getaways NIB?
Quoted from jawjaw:No. It was just blank like the ball lock cover. I cut up a hazard stripe bumper sticker and covered both covers on mine.
Yeah, the only sticker I know of is this one in front of the front pop bumper under the super charger brace...
Quoted from Grinder901:No I remember reading that a star post is how it was designed. Owners have modified it in different ways to make the shot easier.
Yes! I like the lit star post. I'm going to do all mine in red. How is the wire ran? The led sits underneath the star post right? So where does the wire get ran through? Does it just clip on to GI?
I'll give you more details if needed when I have more time but it's a Comet 4 LED star post light in Bright White, I thought the Red was too dull, I ran the wire through the hole under the plastics and soldered it into a GI string.
I love these LED Star Post Lights and used them is several spots but I don't think I over did it...
A few bits of advise,
1. I used a Dermel and thinned down the inside wall of the star posts so the light would fit snuggly inside the post
2. I put a notch on one side of the Star Post so it would sit flat on the base of the LED plastic circle and sit flush on the PF
3. I sanded the "nipple" off of the top of Star post so the plastics would sit level on ALL the posts
I used some for additional lighting in dark areas that are always on and used some in the slings as additional flashers,
the Blue are used as Flashers and the Green and Red are always on in the GI strings
Quoted from Grinder901:Dear God
Quoted from GRUMPY:Wow a lot of work but they look GREAT!
lol, it sounds like a lot of work but it only take a few minutes; however, you do not need to take these steps but I found it gave me the best results.
This is where I decided to only light the outside star post, the light from the bulb under the plastics lights the inside post well enough and I wanted to highlight lane, if you try and put these lights side by side under both posts the circuits will stick out into the lane. Perhaps you could attach them together somehow or Art at Comet could fashion a Manzier Star post light...
The top outside post is lit using a longer wire I soldered onto the circuit wire so I could run it under that elongated plastic and down through the hole under the SC ramp, I hope that helps...
DO NOT DRILL through your PF
This is where I notched the inside Star post so it could sit on top of that circuit and not stick out into the PF...
Quoted from MustangPaul:That German company has a better design of those, they fit entirely under the post with a small notch for the wires to come out....but they are as damn crazy expensive. Just drill a hole where it can't be seen, it won't hurt anything....the pf has holes all over it already.
It would be nice if these could fit under the entire Star post but there is no need to drill holes in the PF, even if it's not seen, there are plenty of existing holes that can be used by extending the wire lengths.
Quoted from steve1515:About 3 months ago, I posted in this thread about two balls being put in my shooter lane sometimes at the start of a multiball. I never got anywhere with it until now. I can reproduce it. Before I start replacing any switches or other things, I'd like to see if this is in fact a bug in the software. I was hoping that maybe a couple of people on L-2 software could try this out and see if you see the same problem where two balls are put in the shooter lane.
Here are the steps to make it happen on my game. I did this with the glass off and documented it.
Software = L-2
1.) Power on and start a game.
2.) Hit 3 green stand ups and lock a ball.
3.) Hit 3 yellow stand ups and lock a 2nd ball.
4.) Light Red Line Mania (I just kept making left loops and shifting when needed. When supercharger mode started, I held up a flipper to time it out.)
5.) Hit 3 red stand ups to light the red light and enable the 3rd lock.
6.) Start Red Line Mania by shooting the supercharger.
7.) Get a ball in the hideout to get the jackpot, and drain the other 2 balls. (If the other two balls come back, just keep draining and keep only one ball in play.)
8.) Now, that Red Line Mania is over, start the regular multiball by shooting the hideout and observe the shooter lane. Two balls will be put in at the same time.
Can anyone reproduce the same results? If you guys can, then I'll know for sure it's a bug and not a switch problem.
Thanks!
Wow... that seems like a lot of effort (and I may get around to testing it at some point) but if you drain the balls I don't think they should come back to you, I could be wrong and usually am. I know if you enter Secret Mania with the L2 Rom there is a glitch that gives you endless Freeway balls and will just keep going... so annoying, but I've never seen 2 balls get put into the shooter lane.
Quoted from chubtoad13:I really like L-1. It seems like it has less bugs than other versions. The varying supercharger amounts in L-2 is better, but other than that I don't see any benefit to go with L-2
I have both L1 and L2 and use the L2, never had many issues with either... aside from the secret mania issue I mentioned but that is avoidable so if you choose to enter that mode do so at your own risk.
Can't really tell if there is a blown fuse by looking at the board in a pic so you'll have to test them, I'd also look for a loose wire under the PF but if it's a ton of lights I'm sure it's a fuse or a wire... don't panic you'll find it and fix it up in no time.
I will say that is one nice thing about the newer boards or replacement boards, the LED lights indicate if the fuse is dead... but it won't matter you'll do it the old fashioned way. Do you have copies of the manual and schematics?
ok, this is far from my strong suit so I would point you to the Tech forums but do you have a multimeter?
If you do, you can test the fuses and if not you should get one...
Good!
I think that digital multimeter is all you will need.
Go through your manual for a complete fuse list and keep plenty of spare fuses on hand, slo-blow and fast blow as needed. If you don't have the manual you can get a digital PDF copy online to DL and they should be listed inside the backbox too.
If possible, I'd make sure that these lamps are split between the GI strings. LED do draw less power but you don't want to overload one string.
If you search the j120 you will see that the J120 is problematic, as I recall it controls several GI strings and is the one that usually gets cooked. Mine did but it's not just the molex, it's the pins on the back side of the board. I repaired my board by replacing the pins and replaced the molex and it continued to fail. I eventually bought a new board and rebuilt the molex connector and it's been trouble free since. LEDs will reduce the load but if its brown that could indicate the pins are failing too, you may want to check that out. If you repair the molex connectors and not the board it may continue to go bad. Hopefully the pins are ok.
Quoted from Grinder901:All great info. How do I check to see if the pins are failing?
That's hard to say because there is no fool proof way with out taking off all the molex connectors and pulling the board. You could unpluging the connecter in question and touch the pins, if they wiggle and there's play they've probably been damaged. Also, you could try testing with your multimeter... if they are lose you should reflow them on the back side of the board, my board was too far gone and I had to replace it but that is a big expense and probably unnecessary. Just be careful because molex connecters that are burnt can crumble in your hands. If it were me, I would learn how to rebuild them and replace the female pins and the molex connector to avaoid any potential issues.
Quoted from jawjaw:Like Paul said, connectors will be noticeably black/brown if something drew a lot of current like a short. That can melt the plastic connector and damage the pins on the board. The fix is to replace the connector and the pins. I had my connector replaced by did not replace the pins. Lights worked with new connector so didn't bother with the pins. Burnt connectors is pretty common when using incandescent bulbs. Shouldn't be an issue with leds unless you shorted something working on the game with the power on.
I would check all your fuses with the multimeter. They can be bad even when they look okay. Put your multimeter in continuity mode. Put the probes on both ends of the fuse and if the multimeter does not beep, the fuse is bad.
This is true, it may be over kill when using LEDs but they still have a load on them and if it's bad it probably would continue to get worse, especially if your adding all that additional lighting. If you only replace the connectors and do not repair the pins at some point the new molex could be damaged and the board could have gotten worse.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-getaway-j120-pic
It's a matter of taste but I did not like the translucent rings, I went with colored rings from Titan, something about white light shining through the rubber didn't appeal to me. Maybe if you used colored LEDs then it would be ok but then there is color saturation on the plastics... but the sling is 2.5".
Quoted from MustangPaul:Pull the fuses to check them, don't leave them in the game when checking.
And you do not need to have the machine on to test a fuse...
Quoted from jawjaw:Check your connectors. You more than likely toasted a connection at the pin. I did the same messing with alligators clamps connected to light strips. Now I never fiddle with anything without power off. Need to check fuses as well.
Quoted from Grinder901:Thanks. I try not to fiddle with the lights off either but maybe I had something touching something it shouldn't have when I turned it back on.
If I did toast a connector as you said, what's the remedy? How do I check connectors?
Yes, this should be avoided...
Quoted from Grinder901:Ok I'll check all the fuses tonight, no beep means it's bad.
I pulled j120 and inspected the pin as well as the connector. Aside from slightly browning, they both appear ok. I'll have the connector replaced when I do the cabinet.
Good news!
You can test for the "beep" in continuity
You can test the resistance with the OHMS
Quoted from Grinder901:Well I tested all my fuses, Jesus there are a ton, like 25 of them, and they all had continuity
A ton of fuses is a good thing, it's more protection for your machine but I'm confused now, are there still issues with the lights or is that resolved?
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:2 problems (connected?) (L2)
I keep getting "check top lock switch 74". It works correctly (as far as I can tell) during each switch test. Closed when closed, open when open.
Hitting the tunnel often results in an endless multiball that can last minutes. The machine keeps auto launching after drains.
Any thoughts>?
The machine will show an error if a switch isn't used after a certain amount of time but it will still function correctly. Go into test, T3: single switch and enter, cycle through to top lock switch 74, wiggle or hit the switch lever a few times until you hear it beep to clear the error. The switch is located on the right side, in the wire form ramp under the "Donut Heaven"...
I'm not sure what your other issue is, multiball will give you "Free Ride" lit for a certain amount of time but I think I would need more info on what's happening.
Quoted from steve1515:Does this help? http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1000/Williams_1992_The_Getaway_High_Speed_II_Parts_List.txt
I'm not sure if it's 100% accurate, but it looks pretty detailed.
Yeah, you're not kidding!
I love to mod my pin but I usually only do things that can be easily reversed... I just worry if I ever have to sell it (I'm actually thinking of this now, please tell me if I'm crazy) the buyer may want it stock.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Probably 2 kinds of opinions here: 1) the purist and 2) the modder. Personally, I plan on enjoying my machine for years, and I want to put my own creative touches on it to make it unique as long as game play is not adversely impacted. If you are looking at the machine as an investment and plan to own it for a relatively short time then I would say keep it original along with any restorations being accurate to how the machine came. If you are like me, and plan to put it in your game room for years to come (maybe forever), then customize it, enjoy the projects while learning more about the machine, and have fun playing regardless of what anyone else may think about it. Just my 2 cents.
I have had this pin for 13 years and I fall in the middle, I want it to be more of a stock look but yet have mods, a sleeper if you will. If you're in this hobby to make money, you need a new hobby.
Having said that, I do think about the day when I may have to move on from my Getaway and the new GB is making me think it's time to sell, I think if you own it you do as you please but someday it may be time to move on and mods are very subjective. A tasteful mod, improvements and the like should help but others may not... bottom line, your money, your pin your choice.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Well my Leg Light-Up are removable, just ask Grinder.
lol, Stangl! The funny thing is, I keep flip flopping about listing my pin because the GB is looking awesome and I'm not sure I can afford it without selling a pin but every time I start to post pics it makes me realize that my Getaway is pretty darn sweet, ugh!
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Has anyone replaced the incandescent bulb in the flash lamp with an led one? If so, which bulb did you use and how do you like it?
EDIT: there is no LED I can find for the Mars lamp.
All of them and I love the look!
906 in backbox
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/8smdflash.htm
assorted colors 8 smd 90% of table
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/8smdg18tower.htm
13 smd 10% of table
Quoted from alimerick:Hello,
I put following led light in Mars beacon from Superbrightleds.com about a year ago. It is plenty bright enough. 1156 LED Bulb w/ Stock Cover - 1 High Power LED - BA15S Retrofit - 1156 Red
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/tail-brake-turn/1156-led-bulb-w-stock-cover-1-high-power-led-ba15s-retrofit-car/1091/2591/
I saw the automotive options but never tried it, if it works it's, and I don't know why it wouldn't, it's an option to consider. Thank you
Quoted from MustangPaul:Yours looks soooo nice that I think you'd be kicking yourself if you sold it. I'd find another way of financing the GB pin. Sell your blood plasma???
lol! I have an option of buying a CFTBL that needs work and is a half the price of a Pro GB... but that GB looks awesome. I'll hold off until I can play it before I decide; however, I think you're right Stang, I don't know if I could/should part with the Getaway.
Quoted from indypinhead:Even though you're done w/ the shop job, I have a cheap/easy mod you'll like:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hs2-the-getaway-stoplight-mod
I may be the oddball here but I like the color light bleed in my stop light... wierd, huh?
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Has anyone personally performed paint repairs on their play area? There is some regular wear and tear on my newly acquired machine, but there are also some very bad/noticeable paint chips around the flipper area. I've searched around and also been given some good advice on how to treat the area to prevent further damage, but I possibly wanted to actually "repair" the area (i.e. paint it as close to original as possible). Not really sure where to start, what kind of paint to use, best colors to use, etc. Any first had experience/advice with photos of results is greatly appreciated.
playfield_(resized).jpg
I have in the outhole area but I would refer you to this thread.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration
I used good a brush with good acrylic paints, clear coat, wax and them mylar.... I know it's not perfect but it's pretty darn good (IMHO) and will not wear out this time!
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Wow, that thread has some detailed restoration techniques. I was hoping to maybe plop down some black paint and call it a day (i.e. just looking for a temporary "fix" to color the bare wood). If I were to follow your model and use a high quality acrylic paint applied with a brush, what clear coat did you use and how did you apply it (brush, spray, other)?
Yeah, Vid is very detailed, he must do professional restorations...
I forgot that I did a very minor touch up a while back without putting the mylar on top of the area because it was not needed in the spot. I put a piece of plexiglass on top of the PF and mixed the colors so they would match.
I cleaned the area to remove any wax and/or dirt before priming it with a white primer.
I used a good fine tip paint brush that I bought at an art store so you wouldn't see brush strokes. I used good acrylic paints also from an art store (when shopping I learned that there are many grades of paint). Only use good paint because it dries the same color that it's mixed and shouldn't run or discolor when clear coated. I got clear coat and just brushed it on because the areas were so small.
The one photo is prior to sanding it with 800 grit sandpaper to level it out. Use automotive clear coat, that's what Vid recommended, not varnish or poly...
I hope that helps.
Go into menu, T:Tests, T4: solenoid test, cycle through to left sling and enter, have it on repeat. What happens?
Opto should not effect this, thats another issue. You may have to resolder the wires again or replace the opto, usually the black one (transceiver) that fails.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Solenoid worked fine. Thanks for the support, but please see my edited post above.
Ok, good. See edited post about opto...
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Now my next problem I just noticed. 2 of the 3 pop bumper lights do not illuminate. Bulbs are verified good (switched with known working ones). Illumination test lights lower bumper but not upper 2.
Were these working before? Did you check the fuses? Do a test... Menu, T: Test, T:10 Lamps + Flashers, you may have more bulbs out than you realize. If not, check for loose wires. The pins and molex connecters on your driver board would be the next check. I'd have to look at my schematics to see what one powers them. Sometimes bulbs are finicky...but once corrected I would replace them with a good frosted twin SMD red bulb.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I just got a large order of parts in including all new optos. Looks like I have a soldering party in my near future.
You probably don't need to replace all the optos (but that's up to you) you can test for faulty ones in the super charger test. These optos work like the safety feature on your garage door opener, one shoots an inferred beam (transceiver), the other receives it, if one is off tilt or broken it won't register.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Now my next problem I just noticed. 2 of the 3 pop bumper lights do not illuminate. Bulbs are verified good (switched with known working ones). Illumination test lights lower bumper but not upper 2.
Well, I discovered the cause of this. J120-1 and J120-2 GI power from main board connectors were burnt to a crisp. I disconnected the connector and put a meter on pins 1 & 7 then 2 & 8 and voltage was good (main board not damaged). Since I don't have one of these 11 pin connectors laying around, I broke off the burnt part of the connector, plugged the good part back in (included pins 7 & then fashioned plugs from speaker connectors. I then crimped freshly stripped pin 1 & 2 wires to the connectors, connected to J120, and voila! Not only did the broken pop bumpers illuminate, but so did several other bulbs. This should hold until I get the correct connector ordered.
I missed this... yes the dreaded j120, that's the one that usually fails. If the molex was burnt to a crisp there may be an issue with those pins or the printed conductive material on the back of the board. This what happened to mine, I replace the pin and reflowed the board but it didn't last so I bought a new driver board, rebuilt the connector, went to all LED and I've been trouble free.
The molex and female pins are available at Marco, Pinball life... You can repair them but if the driver board is damaged they will continue to fail. Converting to LED bulbs will help and new molex is better than that stuff they used 25 years ago and will last longer.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-getaway-j120-pic#post-2622720
This site is very helpful... good luck!
http://www.beerorkid.com/pin/System%20WPC/WPC%20part1/index1.htm
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Thanks for all the great info. I am in the process of putting together my LED kit, so hopefully I too will not have to worry about such things very soon. I guess I will see how the board holds up before making the decision to replace it.
Yes, don't buy a board unless it's needed. repair the molex connecter, female crimp terminals and maybe male pins on the board...
I think that's an 11 pin
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=+IDC+green11R+
or
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CM15611
Quoted from Grinder901:The wife wouldn't approve either but what can I say, I'm a tit man.
Happy wife, happy life... and you have the internet
Quoted from Grinder901:Well damn, I was just going to use one 10 led strip for each side. And I just placed another order with Comet but didn't put any more strips in that order. Damn
Email Art at Comet, if it hasn't shipped yet I'm sure he will help. Awesome guy to deal with... he's on Pinside too, OLDPINGUY
I bought the matrix led light strips from Art for my Elvira machine and they can be trimmed down and cut to size, I removed 2 lights so it would fit where I wanted it to go.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Oh yeah with black flippers I'm sure. Well now that Comet has the frosted strips they may help to make the reflection not be so noticeable.
These are nice, I used them on my Elvira for the Boogie men, frosted Ice Blue is pretty sweet...
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Well, just finished working all day to get my new pin in shape. All new shiny hardware (old stuff was oxidized), polished all plastics, cleaned all metal, new flippers and full rebuild on all 3, fixed supercharger by replacing an opto, playfield clean and wax, all new rubbers, several other minor things, and 3 new shiny balls. Now I just need to finish putting together my LED list, and I think I am done messing around for now, and can start enjoying playing it.
However, I did make one big mistake today when I went to polish what I thought was an aluminum supercharger. I can't tell you what kind of damage aluminum polish does to silver paint on plastic. Ended up having to scrub, sand, prime and paint both pieces. By look and feel, I could have swore it was aluminum, but clearly it is not.
That sucks but...
Quoted from MustangPaul:That is actually a vapor deposit nickel on plastic, the same as R2D2's head on DE Star Wars not paint. Sorry to hear of your mistake but you can still buy a new one.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8672-SET
http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-HS203-867X
Quoted from MustangPaul:We can all relate to that but the problem is that if you don't get it now they may be out next week then who knows if they will ever get any more.
Agreed. Items like this game specific part, play fields, plastic sets.. are a limited run, once gone then they may be gone for a long time or for good.
General replacement parts, coils, switches, bulbs, pop bumper caps... are another story.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Pinball life has this one, but I don't know if it is a fit or Not: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4197
Also, I've never rivited before, so I guess I need to figure that out.
I think that one is too long for the ramp.
Yes, you would have to rivet it, there are kits you can get but they aren't cheap but it's not a bad investment for the hobby.
Well after all this time I finally decided to get around to doing the "Mustang Paul" tach light mod, props to Stang because I saw his thread 1st... I made one minor adjustment and used the extra 4 led star post lights I had lying around for the up lighting, seemed logical to me because they are the same shape so why not give it a try.
Quoted from yonkiman:That message basically means the pin s not seeing any activity on the top lock switch. That can mean one of two things:
1) There is a problem with the switch (or switch wiring), or
2) There is a problem with the ramp going up and locking
The pin can't tell the difference because the switch is the only way it can know if the ramp is up and locked.
In my experience, it's usually #2. Despite a ton of mechanical tweaking over a year or so, I still can't get the $!#*%!$! ramp to work reliably, so I'll often get a credit dot along with the switch error. But the switch is fine.That's the "endless multiball" bug you get with the L-2 ROM. You could switch to L-5, but you lose a few features and potentially get a new bug). There's a comparison here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hs2-getaway-is-in-the-house-multiball-bug#post-241529
I don't know, I suppose this is possible my pin will through a top lock or a middle lock error if I play like crap and the switch isn't used. The error is easily cleared as I mentioned in my earlier post, it's my understanding this was intentional.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Those fit better then the strips. You did good.
Thanks Stang!
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I installed L2 last week since the pin had L1 when I acquired it, and my son just experienced the infinite multi-ball bug (we'll if 10 minutes or so counts as infinite) over the weekend. He was so proud of the score he had going after about 10 minutes of multi-ball, so he wasn't too happy when I just powered the machine off in the middle of his game. I figured there was no way I was letting the kid beat dad's high score, especially illegitimately!
We've probably hit the tunnel 100+ times since I installed L2, and this was the only time we've seen the issue.
I do not have any experience with this glitch but I have heard a few stories of it happening, when/if it happens again let it just drain and see how long it will last. I would hope there is an end to this without having to power off the pin. I'm also running L2 but I have the original L1 rom
That is the issue with Led lights, very subjective. It took me much more testing than I expected. Lamp location is pretty straight forward, write down the socket type and location.
I used frosted in the gi plastics, warm white under red tone and natural white in green tones. I used mostly colored matched faceted non ghosting in the color reflective inserts. Frosted natural white twin smd whites and color matched non ghosting in PF tach.
Back box was an experiment... I don't like over saturated colors so I used warm white and red behind the getaway every other one.
I made a manual of colors and bulb types I'd have to look for it but I over spent on bulbs playing around with it.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Thanks everyone. Just to clarify, I am not really looking for color choices, but types and quantities of each socket. I spent a few hours tonight and I think I've calculated correctly. I plan on double checking and deciding on bulb types and colors. Once I finish the project, I will post a listing for everything to help out others in the future.
This is to the best of my abilities, hopefully I got them all but...
Back Box
31 #555
5 #906 Flasher
PF Plastics
9#89 Flashers
34 #47
Lower PF inserts (Gears and below)
36#555
6 #47
1 #906 Flasher Fee Ride
Upper PF inserts (Above Gears)
2 #47
19 #555
Toys
3 #555 Pop bumpers
3 #555 Traffic light
2 # 555 Super Charger entrance
3 #906 Flashers Super Charger
This total is everything but the Mars light, start button and coin door...
94 #555
42 #47
9 #906 flasher
9 #89 flasher
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Looks like we are slightly off. Here is what I have after multiple visual inspections and going through test menus (I could have easily missed some):
Inserts: 69 (excludes start button but includes every insert light as stepped through in test mode)
Playfield GI: 30
Backbox GI: 30
Playfield Flashers: 12
Backbox Flashers: 5
My Total: 146 (excluding 3 jets since I have LED disks in them)
Your Total: 151 (excluding 3 jets)
Looks like you have:
- 1 additional #906 flasher
- 4 additional #44
- While our #555 count matches, you show 31 in backbox, but I think there are only 30 in backbox + 5 flashers
Probably my best bet is to buy a few extras just to cover possible short counting.
I'll revisit my number later but always buy more...
30 #555 in BB is correct.
3 #906 flashers in super charger and 1 under free ride = 4 plus the 5 in the BB total of 9 # 906
2 #89 in the slings, (2) on left side and (3) on the right side under the plastics and wire form ramps for a total of 5, plus 1 under super charger entrance ramp = 8 #89
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Seems like most go with frosted for playfield GI and clear/no dome for inserts? Comments on what pin owners have liked best?
I used some frosted in a few inserts, in particular the white PF inserts but I used clear twin smd faceted in the "faceted" color inserts and traffic light
Quoted from Its_me_aj:They were all almost black!! A few of them you couldn't even see the lights through. They cleaned up really move though
Yikes! Good work... enjoy!
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I count 17 flashers too, but my free ride flasher is a #89 bayonet not a #906 wedge which flips my flasher numbers from yours. Thanks for all of your help. I agree, and am definitely going to buy extras but just want to make sure I am covered with appropriate types and colors.
I think I've spent more time on researching and planning LED's for my pin than last time I bought a house!
I used a Bendy 8 SMD #906 for the free ride... interesting that they are different.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Great pic, and my idea also to use a flex bulb there. I know I checked multiple times, but maybe I had a brain fart on the bulb type. I will check again when I get home tonight.
P.S. I envy how clean your underside is - very nice.
Thank you! I've had this baby for about 13 years now so it's been in a home environment for more than half it's life. I've completely rebuilt all 3 flippers, coils, coil bracket, mechs, springs, sleeves and bushings, everything but the metal frame. I did the same with the shooter, everything replaced but the frame, hopefully this will last a long time.
Quoted from SUPERBEE:Now lets keep things clean boys. This is a respectable site !
lol!
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Okay, I am getting ready to order my LEDs and wanted to also order some custom lighting for various areas (kick-out saucer, sling tachs, back area, spot for mountain plastic, behind flippers, etc.) My only question is how do I wire these into the lighting system? Do I just find another light on the GI circuit and splice into its wires? Should I solder them or connect them in some other fashion?
I would not splice wires but...
Options from Comet:
1. the new Matrix system with alligator clips so you don't have to solder them. Go there to see the parts and wires available
2. Solder them directly onto an existing lamp (that's what I did, make sure flashers are with flashers and GI are with GI).
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:I used the comet connection that goes into an another lamp socket when adding 3 LED strips. I don't like the alligator clips. I worry that they'll come loose and short something out. If I had to use them then I'd just clip and solder the wires in.
That's an option too, the only issue I had with them is that the light is only 1 smd and doesn't have enough brightness for my liking. The clips are pretty strong and are insulated, I used one for a short period of time with no issues but I decided to solder the wires after I sure about my mods.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Woohoo! Just placed my LED order at Comet. Can't wait to get everything in and liven up this pin! Thanks for all the great support and mod ideas. I purchased all LEDs for entire pin including backbox and coin door (just no LED for red lamp on top of box). Also, I got everything to add lighting to back of playfield, ball catch between flippers, spot for mountain/tunnel plastic in back right, below supercharger ramp sign, left and right sling tachs, drive 65 plastic, and red kick-out disk (I did buy a few accessories at Pinball Life to complete things - light sockets, flood assemblies, etc.)
All of this plus several extra bulbs for less than the cost of a kit from all of the providers I looked it. It was definitely work figuring out everything and customizing the lighting to my taste, but a big thanks goes to the members of this forum and to a pinhead friend who has helped me out tremendously.
Before/after pics surely to come was the transformation takes place. Also, once I get all of the lights in and verify everything, I plan on posting my lamp spreadsheet for those who may want to mod their Getaway in the future. For me, the hardest part was validating socket types and quantities of everything, and this would have been a big help.
Good luck. Enjoy!
Just take your time and try not to mess around too much with the pin powered on, it's hard to resist, but it could prevent any possible short or worse...
Quoted from jawjaw:LEDs really brings this game to life. You will not be disappointed. You might want to turn off dimming otherwise you might get some flicker.
That's great advise, I did that too because there is no dimming with these bulbs, glad you brought that up.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Hey that's pretty cool, I like it. Just a suggestion here, put some cops sitting at tables along with a couple other customers and maybe a waitress with a tray and maybe slant the sign so when the paper lays flat it looks like the sign is standing straight up. How many layers is your picture?
Not bad but here is the one that came with some plastic set, or so I was told... I have not been able to make this work, maybe you can.
No, I'm not good at any of that stuff, heck I can't even get it to be the correct shape! I wish I could replicate this one, it 's the right graphics and theme, plus I do not like the plastic model Donut Heaven. Having said that, there is something I like about the chrome plate reflecting the lights...
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Spent a little more time on it tonight, here is the updated version.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Probably more work than I am willing to put into it right now, but I am happy to share the Photoshop files with you if you would like to customize to your liking.
Thanks! Looks good but I still want to try and remake the other one. I like the "cartoonish" theme... I'm thinking I'll try to capture a pic from my colorDMD to work with.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Okay, I just finished complete LED upgrade (have not added all my extras yet, just the standard illumination), and I must say "wow!" I cannot believe how awesome the updated lighting makes the pin look. I am going to put together before/after shots, as well as a bulb guide for those of you wishing to upgrade to LED, but are too intimidated to put together your own kit (much more affordable this way).
However, I have one HUGE problem now. I did all of my flashers first, and every one of them tested perfectly. Then I did GI, back box, and finally inserts. When I was done I proceeded to test everything and all illumination works except now none of the flashers will work. I tested all the fuses, did a visual of the circuit boards and connections, but I cannot figure out what I did to kill the flashers. Any ideas here would be greatly appreciated. Very frustrating to get all of this work done with the pin looking great, but the flashers all stopped working even though they worked when I tested them after initial LED upgrade.
None of the flashers work?
Is this only the case in test mode?
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I've never had to do that before when testing them, and when I do try there is no change.
None of the flashers work at all in test mode or in game play.
Sorry to hear about the problems but I'm sure we can get you fixed up. I'll have to look at the schematics later when I have time to see if all flashers are on the same string but...
1. Check for a broken wire trace the string to/from the back box
2. Check all your fuses, you mentioned you had done this but how did you test them?
3. Check your molex connections are solid and make sure all the wires are firmly connected, sometimes they will become loose and not make contact with the pins in the board
4. Check the board and pins are all working correctly, no loose or broken pins
5. Check high voltage board, caps, fuses and such....
All this will be much easier when you/we can determine what string and connector these are associate with but in the meantime you should post something in tech forum. I have to go and don't know when I'll have time to look into this, maybe later today or tonight.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Well, my flasher issue ended up being a simple one. With the help of a forum member, he instruction me to look at LED 5 on the main board. It was not lit which signifies a circuit break. I replaced F111 (even though I thought I had tested it as good) and LED 5 immediately LIT and so did flashers.
Good news. Just curious, how are you testing fuses? Are you using a multi-meter?
Quoted from pindan3:Trying to describe the flasher and mod issue is a bit confusing here....I just know when the mod is hooked up it makes the red light on top try to work constantly, like...(yea the like word" lol...).everytime you hit a pop bumper or a sling the topper slightly flashes with it. And if I put a normal flasher in the back box ( where the 5 go ) it will get real bright and make a coil fire where the donut shop mod is. And I'm probably still not getting my message across in right way, So we have this guy in our area "atari Jim " who is REALLY good at tracing this stuff. So I guess I will load it up one day and have hime do his magic, He hates MODs though....LOL...
I would bet you've got some crossed wires or maybe something got attached together in those strings causing everything in those strings to engage when one of the parts are triggered. This of course is just a guess but I once had some solder drop on two separate stings basically making the two strings one... this was on some standup targets and GIs, the only way I realized it was three lights would blink at the same time and then when one target was hit all three would register.
Quoted from Mancave:Must admit i've never heard of this happening before. When a coil activates (pop bumper, sling) it makes the mars lamp temporarily flash? I doubt that the actual mod would be causing this issue but some quick questions if i may. Are these the blue flasher mods from Mezel mods (1 either side of the mars lamp) we are talking about? Were the flashers already attached when you got the machine or you attached them yourself, did you follow the instructions provided to the letter? I could show a pic from my machine how it's all wired in but i also have 2 cop cars attached to the mars lamp circuit so it has a double splitter in the wiring, i don't want to confuse the issue. This has got me stumped i must say, as far as i know the mars lamp isn't directly connected to the coil circuit. Is there any effect when you hit the flipper buttons?
Good point, if you did not install these mods you cannot be sure how or where they were connected into the machine. You could look to see how these are attached to the pin.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Well, I was actually testing fuses in-socket. But I assure you, I have learned my lesson given all the grief my error caused me. Thank you all for your advice and getting me back up and running. I cannot believe the difference LEDs make. It is like an entirely different pin now.
As I stated earlier, my plan is to do a write up and inventory of bulb types, sockets, etc. that I used to help out future LED conversions for others on this pin, along with before/after pics. Since I fully customized my LEDs (did not buy a kit), I put several hours into figuring everything out. To my surprise, I was only off one bulb where somehow I had logged it as a #555 when it was actually a #44. Fortunately, I had purchased a couple of extras of each type, so now I am 100% LED. My next steps are to install the mod lighting features that I purchased (tachs, back of pin, mountain spot, et. al.)
Pinside is great for support, especially in the tech sections, some of these guys are just insane with the knowledge they have, it has helped me become pretty good at doing most repairs myself and if I don't know how to fix it there is usually someone who does know.
At this point I'm thinking about buying a few bargain basement pins that I've found and try to fix them up, I almost enjoy fixing and tweaking the machines as much as I like playing them; however, I do not claim to know more my limited experiences with my 2 pins but I think it would be a fun project bringing a pin back to life...
Anyway, I'm glad it has worked out for you, enjoy the "new" machine!
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Thanks, and consider me educated. After Googling, I now understand how diodes differ from resisters, and that they are directional. Nobody told me I was going to have to use my brain so much when I bought a pinball machine.
Good job and yes, baby steps... we all started at the same place but soon you will be fixing stuff left and right, because
1. You'll have to
2. You aren't afraid to try anymore
3. You'll go broke paying someone to fix it for you and grow old waiting for them
I'd watch out for super bright white flashers in the slings, you may go blind with all that light...
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:BTW, cudos to Art at Comet Pinball. Great knowledge and exceptional customer service. Also highly patient with newbies like myself.
Yes, I hope whom ever bought his business does half the job Art did, he's a great business man and an even better person.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Okay, I am about done with my mods now. Besides, I am a little board since my DMD controller board went out, and I need to order a new one tomorrow. Anyway, the last thing I want to do is add a diecast police car and Lambo. I think I have what I want picked out, and for now want to do it on the cheap (e.g. $10 each or so). I really think Mezel's fully lighted large police car is awesome, but just not in my budget right now. Therefore, my plan was to just put either a 3 LED strip or a post LED (Matrix from Comet) inside the cab of each model and connect to GI to have the inside lit for now.
Any thoughts/ideas on what others have done in this area?
I'm a less is more kind of person when it comes to modding my pin, I like the Donut Heaven decal, the colorDMD, color coordinated rubbers, some additional PF lighting and LEDs. I never got into adding cars and plastic models to the game, although the mountain mod is pretty cool and was actually a prototype for the pin but was cut due to costs. The decal on the shooter apron looks pretty good or maybe the cop talking into the radio saying "this time I'm going to nail that dirt bag"...
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Yeah, this is my first, so I am having some fun with it and also adding some stuff that my son likes (he is begging for the toy cars). The LEDs make all the difference in the world to me, and I can definitely understand the minimalist/purist approach when it comes to customize one's game.
Oh, yes... for myself only. I've seen sweet looking mods and stuff I wouldn't do but it's your pin so you should do what you like, especially if your son likes it. You should enjoy the hobby with him because someday he will be a pin head thanks to those times you shared together. Have fun with it!
Quoted from Kawydud:Wonder why they aren't in this file, never noticed it.
My guess would be because it's part of the shifter and not cabinet decals...
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CA-22A
S/O but may be worth an email
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Even with the mm or so adjustment, they are still way off from each other when extended.
Can you please post pics with the PF raised and pics of the underside of the flippers... coils, sleeves, springs and stops.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Okay, so here are pics of my flippers.
1) down position (these are aligned straight to lane guides)
2) up position
3) under both
4) under left
5) under right
I'm not sure whats going on there based on the pics because I can only see these on my phone atm but do those coil bases have the little plastic nipple in the slot? Maybe they are moving? Were those coils that way when you purcahsed the pin and were the coil sleeves replaced?
Quoted from Slim64:7 on mine. Nothing tweaked, has the fat or double post like many do at the loop entry
That is the correct post for that area, a double ring Star post. 7 loops is my best but idk when I did that, must of been a long time ago because 5 is my tops lately.
1 week later
Quoted from Bob86ZZ4:I'm going to install my l.e.d. kit soon. Thinking about replacing all the rubber too. Anybody have advice what I should replace with? I need to buy a kit for it. Too much work for me to figure out all the stuff on my own. I'm thinking about those translucent ones? Thanks.
Titan Competition Silicone is the way I went, not a fan of the translucent but that's your call...
Quoted from n1teowl:I've got an extra snow capped mountain mod that came with my new Getaway. It's already got one installed so I'm planning on selling the extra and am trying to gauge interest. It's the mod based on the original molds and I believe that there were 100 made. PM me if interested.
Been looking for one of these for a long time...
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Not always both switches at the same time. Banging cabinet hard does not seem to do anything. Also does not happen when moving flippers by hand. Even when I hold the switches still and press flipper buttons it occurs. Almost seems like something electrical.
I had something like this happen with my slings, I think a wire was crossed or making contact somehow and caused them to activate, do a general sweep under the PF to make sure no wires are crossed or touching each other...
Quoted from weaverj:priced to sell: $2000/firm.
I suppose this all depends on what priced to sell means to you, even Pinside's range is $2,200 - $2,580 so posting below that is just nuts. You can always negotiate a lower price but you'll never be able to raise it back up. Personally I wouldn't let mine go for less than $2,650 without my colorDMD and $3,000 with it but condition is king and you have a few issues... there was a security bar at one time so the front cabinet was drilled out plus the fade. Neither one are huge concerns as long as it plays well because that can be repaired; however, it would be at a cost of about $250 plus the time to restore so that will lower it's value. I'd probably list it for $2400-ish and see what happens.
EDIT: Make sure everything is good working order before you list it, boards, bulbs and toys, this will only help you sell it unless you want to sell it as a project.
All the ring sizes should be listed in the manual but those 7/16" OD are for all the red single groove miniposts. I used white on those for some pop and just the regular rubber because I had them already plus they won't see any action.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:A couple of points of advice:
1) Consider doing your own LEDs instead of a kit. Take a look earlier in this thread a page or two back, and you will find all the resources you need. I personally detailed every lamp, and even gave my color selections. Also, others added some good opinions to the discussion. I ended up saving $50+ bucks not going with a kit which I put into additional lighting (again, see earlier in thread)
2) As far as the rubbers, for the rings I went with Titan translucent Competition Silicone and love them. I really like the looks of the lighting with the translucent rings, and I've not had any issues with them getting dirty thus far. For the flippers, I went with red and green PerfectPlay Silicone from Pinball Life. I love the way these play verses traditional rubbers. Finally, for the posts, I went with red, yellow, and green colored post sleeves from Pinball Life. Again, you can browse through recent pages of this thread and see pics of tables with translucent, red, black, white, etc. rubbers to see what you like. If you are seriously interested in the translucent then I would be happy to post more detailed pics.
Bottom line is that it is your game, and outfit it the way you want in your own style. I will admit that I am more to the personalized style with different colored jets, all kinds of lighting mods, custom gear shifter, and all sorts of red/yellow/green theming throughout the table (target covers, posts, post covers, LED pop bumpers, etc.) If you're more of a traditionalist and want to keep the original look of the table, then that is good too.
Also, if you are referring to a rubber kit and not LED kit like I assumed, I would be happy again to inventory for you what is required if not already done so earlier in this forum. I found that going by the manual was not quite accurate (or at least not clear to me).
One bit of advise, probably too late for you now, but to anyone ordering new bands for your pin, always buy an extra 1 or 2 of the sizes you need, trust me, it's better to have them on hand if needed instead of having to wait a week or so to get a new one if one breaks. These aren't that expensive of an items so the few bucks up front will be well worth it, IMO.
No, if you drain when the ramp is down, the ramp should raise when the new ball is launched from the shooter and then travel under the ramp, then the ramp should lower once it passes underneath giving you a chance to hit the ramp with the upper flipper.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:While I don't have another Getaway I can use to compare, everything seems strong to me. Flippers can make all the shots with power and slings are very responsive. If I get industrious, maybe I can shoot some video that might help. Game still plays great, but for some reason I decided to question this the other day. May not find an answer, so I'll try not to let it bug me too much.
did you do a physical test of the roll over switchers under the super charger? How about your settings, what's the diverter set to?
2 weeks later
Quoted from Grinder901:My playfield scratches the HELL out of my cabinet. Es no bueno. This can't be normal. When I have the cabinet redone, I'll def have that issue address so I'm not scratching it or the decals that'll be there anymore:
Looks like your latches (slide assembly) are an issue, the springs are not in the right spot and the Ground cable was cut too...
I'll try to post you some fixes and a pic
Quoted from Grinder901:Spent some of Father's Day tweaking this and that on my games. Replaced old flipper buttons with chrome style, installed the coin door bracket and sensor in the cabinet to make contact with the new coin door and a few others.
So noticed the old coin doors connector and the new coin door connector aren't exactly the same. Should I be concerned?
As long as it's a 13 pin .156 you should be fine as long as the pins are wired correctly. It looks like there isn't the connector key housing in the 4th slot and the original was capped, no big deal.
Quoted from Grinder901:Thanks. That's an old picture. I think we fixed the spring issue at least:
Yes, that now looks correct. The slide assembly is there so it can lift the playfield higher and make it easier to work on the back end of the PF (I wish some of the older pins had this installed) the angle on the bracket helps it slide forward and upward, once it clicks in place the backend of the bracket elevates and holds it in place allowing you to raise it higher than the cabinet. The issue is that the spring breaks or falls out because of the design and then the assembly will damage the cabinet, especially if people pull it too fast.
1 week later
I think the original side art were decals.
I have no idea about the apron but I put decals over mine.
http://www.treasurecovepinball.com/Library/decals/getaway/getaway.htm
Quoted from Manimal:Thanks, I ordered the apron decals, but the old apron had been drilled for a metal plate.....not sure what is said, but they butchered the apron doing it. I have it in the shop now getting welded. I had hoped to find a replacement, but I am not having any luck there.
I saw the fish-tales video some time ago, and it is full of good info. I was just trying to find out of the original artwork was a decal or silk screening. With a Fish-Tales, you can see and feel the vinyl they are made from..and with all of the colors, they would be hard to screen. With the Getaway, we are only working with a couple of colors, and given I can feel the texture of the paint on mine, I thought maybe the art work was silk-screened.
If that's the case, I would see if another WPC apron will fit, repaint it and apply the new decals.
Well heck, I would have never thought they were screened on, I have a small, thin chip at the very top of the cabinet under the lock down and I thought it was just the decal. Good to know and just goes to show you're never too old to learn something new. Thanks for the info and the link.
1 week later
Quoted from Sticky:Would someone be able to explain what 'Special' does? When it is lit in the outlanes and you go over it the machine does the knockback and lights up SPECIAL on the DMD but what does it actually do?
Is the only way to make use of it with the kickback active on the left outlane? I did this once and it seemed I was scoring more points but it was all over so fast I wasn't too sure.
Special can be set in your options to be free ball, free game... you light the kickback by hitting all 3 lower white targets.
Quoted from KornFreak28:What else could be slowing the ball down? Old coil sleeve? Old plunger? The actuator is very tight so that is not it....
Check the magnets (and opto switches in the SC), faulty magnets and/or switches could slow the SC... run your SC tests and let us know what happened.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Pretty simple and there are 2 tests you need to run.
T.12 Supercharger - enter this test and enable all 3 magnets by pressing up or down test buttons, then launch a ball by hand into the SC. You should see the optos open as it passes through (closed by default). If opto is stuck in open position by default then you have a problem as it will not activate the corresponding magnet.
T.13 SC Time Test - enter this test and roll a ball into the SC. Once up to speed, see what your avg is. I think it should at least be in high 80's but don't exactly remember. If all mags are working but you are getting slow rates then may be mag related.
I also had some issues with one of the fuses (see earlier post in this forum) where it kept blowing. I believe the issue for me was a couple of bad optos. After replacing, my SC has worked perfectly for some time now.
You can test them 1 at a time by setting 2 switches to closed but the full test with them open should show them working as the ball passes the optos. If there is a faulty opto, most of the time the transceiver is bad but it is possible for the receiver switch to be bad or out of whack. Yes, high 80's like 88 is ok, when mine game was firing well it was hitting in the low 90's but I haven't run the test in a while...
Quoted from jawjaw:In both mb and redline mania, you get jackpot then superjackpot. Supercharger loops used to relight jackpot shot and values go up each time.
This ^... for L2 Rom anyway
Quoted from KornFreak28:I just got my parts and removed the 2 screws to the actuator. How in the world do you get this diverter gate off? Its stuck in there! Hammer it out? Don't wanto to damage anything. Thanks
Yeah, taking that off or adjusting it sucks... but that's pinball, some parts are just really hard to work on or access.
Quoted from KornFreak28:Diverter is off! Do I run some grease or oil on this thing and the actuator? If so, what kind? Liquid? Paste? Brand? Thanks!!!
Do you have a manual? If not you should get one or you can DL it, I'll check it when I can but I don't recall if that calls for lubricant (I know the drop post in the wire form does). Many machines don't use any sort of grease and I'm pretty oil is usually a no no
Well I finally broke down and got some Cliffy protectors installed. I figured I'd protect my newly repaired out hole (repainted wear spot, applied CC, waxed it and put down Mylar) so it wouldn't get beat up. Props to Cliffy for some nice fitting parts.
Quoted from KornFreak28:That looks nice! Maybe I can Install some in mine since I have it torn apart right now. Where they hard to install?
Not hard at all, the shooter lane requires you to loosen the black wooden rail so you can slide the plate underneath it but the top is like replacing the rubbers except you'll need to take out the back metal ball stops.
http://www.passionforpinball.com/HS2.htm
Quoted from weaverj:you'll have to hammer out a few posts if it's anything like my WCS. no biggy.
No hammer required, whew...
Quoted from KornFreak28:Thats very nice of you! Thank you sir!
NP. It's what we do here, good luck and enjoy your pin (once you get it put back together).
EDIT: The shooter lane will require you to remove the 1st screw under the PF from the wooden rail otherwise you'll never get the hole in the plate lined up. Maybe taking it out completely would be easier but I didn't need to remove it just loosen the other screws...
Quoted from jsyjay:Joined the club yesterday!
Playfield and plastics are near mint, flippers a bit weak and cabinet is faded and tatty so will have decals and all metalwork black powder coated at some point to make it 100%
Flipper rebuild kit, LED's, Mezel mods Donuts Heaven and alt translite ordered.
Welcome!
As for the Shifter error, this can happen when you only use the shifter in one direction just wiggle it up and down and it should reset... it's not truly an error or at least that's been the case on my table.
Connectors are usually specific but anything is possible...
Sometimes, like mentioned before, after doing so much to the pin it goes crazy but it will catch up and be fine after a few start ups.
Opto errors or slow SC can be because the opto are out of alignment.
If you fried anything it could be a fuse just check them out
Quoted from KornFreak28:Ok guys, i think I may have finally found the issue! About 2 weeks ago, I purchased a portable AC unit for my garage where I have my Getaway. Of course the machine has been torn apart form the last 2 weeks for the shop job and just barely started playing it with the AC on. I read on a different thread that sometimes resets are caused by voltage drops in the outlet. I checked the outlet with AC on and gave me 120, turned AC off gave me 115. Played the machine with the AC off and no more resets in 3 games that I played! Keeping fingers crossed and hoping I did in fact found the solution. Will keep testing it tomorrow Thanks!
This is a fact...
A while back I was getting a reset on my pin when my nephew would mash both flippers at the same time, there are other issues that could cause a reset from doing that, but on occasion a reset would occur with a single flip too
Quoted from Kawydud:Have any of you installed this around the beacon? I bought one, just haven't installed it yet.
Not that exact one but mine had this when I bought it 13 years ago...
Quoted from Manimal:Anyone know of a source for the "Getaway and car" banner decal that goes on the side of the upper ramp? Getting down to the last phases of a complete rebuild and thought I would replace my faded one.
If you mean the Supercharger loop decal, Marco had them at one point but I haven't seen them available for a while... sorry.
Quoted from Kawydud:That is the one from the original High Speed, very similar. Can you take a picture of how it is mounted?
I figured it was but I liked it and left it on....
Quoted from nvu4prod:I've read several posts on this Getaway Club thread regarding the rear lift ramp not working properly. My lift ramp is staying locked in the up position. After going in the switch edge test the switch is working properly. When going into the lift ramp test, the large solenoid engages which is for the up position but I do not hear the small coil fire for the release: SM1-28-900-DC. When I manually release the plate from the the notch it does position the ramp down. So there is no apparent binding between the shaft, ramp and solenoids.
I'm guessing it's an issue with the SM1-28-900-DC coil. All soldering looks clean to it's lugs. Not familiar with this type of coil since it's so small. Because of it's location it's hard to determine whether the coil operates with a mini plunger or it's a magnet pulse that trips the plate to the down position.
Anyone that has knowledge or has experienced this particular issue on their Getaway, I would really appreciate some feedback.
Thanks in advance!
So when you run the T:Test, T14:Ramp test, the ramp fails to move up and down?
Quoted from SUPERBEE:Thanks Kawydud.
Thats weird, upon close inspection of my board, I have a solid black wire on the 2nd connection in from the left on J505 where yours has the black/yellow on the 3rd connection in from the left on J505. I also just noticed that i can see where the wire broke off on J504 on my board and its the 2nd connection in from the right and it would be my black/yellow wire where yours shows a solid black wire on J504 and its the 3rd connection in from the right. Anyone know why that would be the case ?
Yeah, all this can be a real pain in the butt and it's why I'm a firm believer that everyone should have a copy of the schematics and the operation manuals for their pin, and if your table didn't come with them you should try to download them or buy a copy. Hopefully these will help...
Quoted from SUPERBEE:Thanks tiltmonster, im not very good with schematics yet but im guessing since your connections looks the same as Kawyduds, my connectors on J504 and J505 must be switched . If the black wire and the black/yellow wire are just speaker wires i can just reverse them correct ? Or does it even matter as mine were working just fine before i started my restore.
It's no problem, we are here to help the best we can so don't worry but I'm still confused about what's going on, perhaps you just have the molex connectors on the wrong pins? Maybe I need to re-read your post to see what issue you're having...
EDIT: So your wires came off the molex and you weren't sure where they went and reattached them and it's not the same as they were intended but they still work?
If that's the case I would still attach them the correct way, I'm not sure what harm would come of it if you left it but it's always best to put things back where they belong.
Quoted from nvu4prod:When running the ramp test, the up coil engages for the up position but fails to drop down. I can manually trip the notch plate to make the ramp drop to the down position. I'm not hearing the smaller coil engage which trips the release plate. Because of the location of the assembly underneath the play field, this one could be a tough one to trouble shoot!!
Hmmm... yeah, working on that sucks but that's pinball. I'll look at mine later to see what could be causing that to happen.
Quoted from scottmaggie:Anyone have the plastic in the center of the game that reads "This time we're gonna nail that dirtbag". I am missing it so...
I think that plastic was part of the reproduction set, mine was all metal but had this decal inside the manual I put over top...
Quoted from Sticky:Was about to order ColorDMD for my Getaway but it says you have to have L2 or L5 roms? I run L1 and don't intend to change from L1 so I guess I can't use a ColorDMD?
I don't know about the L1 Rom not working with the ColorDMD but I had the L1 and switched out to L2 and love it... no issue with my ColorDMD or game play. Why don't you want to switch the Rom?
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:I'd be interested in a decal too.
I don't know if my decal was original to the game when new but it was tucked away in the manual some 13 years ago. I bet someone here could remake that decal... let me know if a better pic would help.
Quoted from flynnibus:You mean secret mania? You shift the shifter during the donut shop animation on ball lock 2
Red Line Mania is the 'wizard mode' for getting to the top gear (rpm shots to fill guage, shift, then repeat for each gear)
I thought this only worked when 3 police cars are showing
1 week later
Quoted from MustangPaul:I see, sure fooled me.
I would think black gloss or semi-gloss paint would be reflective to a degree, I need to touch mine up anyway, so I may try it...
3 weeks later
Quoted from Sticky:Thanks.
I checked the button and there weren't any springs. Just seemed to be dirty. Gave it a little spray of WD40 and it's perfect now.
However, even when the button is pushed down all the way sometimes the flipper gets interrupted as if a circuit isn't staying complete. So say I'm keeping a ball on the left flipper suddenly the flipper will go down as if I released the button even though I didn't.
Any idea why this is?
How do the leaf switches look? I replaced mine because part of the wood spacers fell apart and they weren't working correctly. Probably a good 2nd step...
Quoted from Sticky:The leaf switches look good to me but I'm a noob and have no idea what to look for. Should I try bending it toward the button maybe?
When you depress the flipper button it should force the leaf switch to make contact, I suppose it could be something as simple as that but if you can post a few photos of your flipper mechs and coils and one of your leaf switches we could have a closer look.
If it were me I'd...
Try a switch test on the flipper.
Look at the solder joints and wires to make sure everything is making good contact.
A flipper rebuild may be in order if it's not been done already, sleeves and coils... I doubt springs or mechs would cause that issue.
Beyond that I'd have to look at my schematics to see where these go into the board but make sure there are no burnt molex connectors or loose pins on the board just to be sure everything is making good contact because a blown fuse would kill them completely.
Baby steps here, some things are obvious and others take a little leg work to sort out but in the end I'm sure we can get you all squared away.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:This is my first pin, and I was researching and trying to track down a pin in my budget for quite some time. When I finally found this one, There were many little issues: electrical, mechanical, lighting, surface, etc., but I've really enjoyed learning and fixing everything myself along with adding several of my own mods. While my next pin will be much more play ready, I am glad I've gone through this experience and appreciate pinball that much more because of it.
IDK, if you are now more comfortable working on a pin because of that experience maybe you should look for a better value and fix it up, that's what I've done and in the long run it would save you some cash.
Quoted from mattnb:Hey all,
New member of the Getaway club. Just picked up one last evening. Game's in pretty ok shape. Long list of small stuff I have to do to get it in playing shape. In no particular order:
-Bunch of switches are out. Switch matrix seems okay, but will require more investigation.
-Several lights and flashers out
-Game is a re-import, so I need to solder the jumper to change it back to America
-Batteries were replaced, but game resets to factory every time. Will need to investigate the issue.
-DMD is showing early signs of degassing. Also has an audible hum to it which changes depending on what's being displayed (wtf?)
Anyway, looking forward to having it back to playing shape. It's one of the best!
Welcome! It's a really good pin and one you can just play and have fun. I've had mine for 13 years and been on the fence about selling it or trading it and just can't do it, so I hope you have a similar experience.
Have you ever redone a reimport? Mine was but I'm here in the states so I'm certain it's the same so if it helps here is a link to a thread I made...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/reimport-hack-service-outlet-install
Quoted from Sticky:So this happened today. Can anyone recommend a good source for replacement rubbers?
I love Titan too, have them in my games but Pinball Life has the PerfectPlay that I've been using and those are excellent...
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4014
They two are similar and I cannot decide which one I like best. Maybe PerfectPlay's rebound and bounce are slightly closer to regular rubber? Bottom line, you can't go wrong with either one
Quoted from Zukboy2002:Joined the club a few weeks ago. I can't get enough of it. I can see this one in my collection for a while.
Welcome! Have fun, it's a very good pin!
Sticker with serial number 1st clue. Volts 220 2nd clue. Coin door 3rd clue. Pop the play field and look at the transformer for cut wires and wire nuts 4th clue.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Voltage and wire nuts wont tell him what country it came from...
Ha... yeah, misread the question.
Quoted from wxforecaster:Just picked up a filthy but fully working Getaway. Full strip down, cleaned 8 rags worth of grime, new rubbers, flippers awesome, she plays better than any I've ever played with one exception. The plunger. I think I aligned it correctly and put on a new coil sleeve, but the ball still doesn't feed all the way around the loop. It makes it to about the top of the pops and that's it. Any ideas?
I had a similar issue with a new coil, for whatever reason it didn't launch the ball around the loop but when I put in another coil the same thing occurred. Turns out that my shooter looked liked it was aligned correctly but it was causing the ball to hit the star post just enough to slow it down... you may have to play with the alignment even if it looks right. Having said that one of the coils didn't launch it around the loop so I assumed the coil was bad.
2 weeks later
Quoted from wxforecaster:I got what according to the manual is the proper sleeve and the plunger is still not firing the ball strong enough. I assume I have it assembled correctly? Pointing toward the shooter lane...from top to bottom... the coil, the sleeve with the flange against the bottom of the coil plastic, the coil bracket with the notch around the coil plastic notch, the spring and plunger. It is aligned perfectly centered on the ball. With the assembly fastened together, there is about a 1/4" to 1/2" protrusion of the coil sleeve into the shooter lane.
The first picture shows how far out the armeture protrudes at full plunge, second at normal rest. Maybe I have the wrong armeture? Where should it and the sleeve be at rest relative to the ball and shooter lane? Pics from someone whose is working?
As I mentioned in my previous post, the shooter rod, in some cases, does not have to be perfectly aligned. Yes, you would think that it has to be in the center of the switch but as you can see in the pic mine is off center and it's the only way the ball will make it around the loop. Also, make sure the ball is not making contact with the star post. Having said that this is the part you need....
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Take a look at my plunger. I guess size does matter.
Hmmm.... I think your coil is mounted in reverse. There should be a notch on that mounting plate for the nipple on the plastic coil housing to fit into the plate to keep it from rotating when it fires. Look at the pic on my post for reference.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Funny, it works just fine. Maybe you should flip yours Seriously, I bought it that way. Guess I should reverse it?
Its not that it won't work but when the coil fires the coil will rotate, the nipple and notch prevent that from happening and is less likely to cause an issue like the contacts/wires breaking.
Some old coils will show wear and the nipple is sheared off, so before you flip it, make sure it's still intact.
Quoted from wxforecaster:Easy fix if i had one, and after just placing a larger order online, I really don't want to drop 10-15 plus shipping on a single part. I get the whole "get it working" mantra of a routed game, but i also believe in get it right when you have the chance to order the broken part. #cheapandfrustrated
Yeah, routed games can be patched together because if the machine is down they aren't making money so the operator usually fixes it any way they can so you'll see lots of hacks. In home use it's totally different and all repairs should be done correctly. I believe you're better off spending your money on fixing the pin the right way, with the right parts, including boards and playfield parts. Adding bling to a pin is tempting but if doesn't have good "bones" then you could be setting yourself up for more issues.
Edit:
Marco is out of stock, you could send him an email, they are good about getting back to you...
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-15709
You could try Planetary Pinball but I don't have any experience with them...
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-A-15709
Good luck!
Edit 2: I would recommend that you buy some extra springs and coil sleeves when you place your order.
Quoted from Kawydud:I am on my third HS2 right now. The first one was weak with the plunger, bought the right armature online and it would not fit in the game. Everything looked original, so I just rebuilt it and it seemed to work fine. Fast forward to my second HS2, completely went through that game, and the armature I bought for #1 was perfect for #2. The only thing I could come up with was #1 was a re-import.
These were all made in the USA so being a reimport shouldn't matter, as mine was a reimport (converted back hack free). The main differences should only be in the voltage, the plug and the coin door.
Quoted from scottmaggie:Jonesing for the mountain...anyone going to repro those again?
+1
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I reversed it, but still waiting on my new MPU to arrive, so I cannot test it just yet.
Excellent! Good luck with the new board
Quoted from weaverj:mountain was prototype, right?
Yes, it was a gray mountain on a few machines but then about 2 years ago someone ran them and sold out. You could have purchased them either painted or just the plain gray.
Quoted from Charger500:Help a potential first pin owner out, please. I have a lead on Getaway. I may be getting it this weekend, if the planets align. As a newbie, I'm apprehensive about the potential problems that can go wrong. The person I'm hoping to get it from looks to know what he's doing, and has taken care of this Getaway, and added numerous mods to it. Am I asking for headaches getting this? Do I need an electronics degree to figure out how to fix it? Ideally, it won't have any issues, but by the number of posts on this thread about problems, I am having doubts about buying this pin, or any pin at all, if I'm going to have to be troubleshooting it all the time. Thoughts? Thanks for the input.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Pinball machines are very high maintenance toys... I strongly suggest that if you have no experience, or at least the core skills (electronics, soldering, use of basic hand tools, etc) to work on pinball machines, that you DONT work it yourself. Buy it with the intention of calling in a local tech to repair it for you if needed, or don't buy it. If the seller is local, perhaps you can ask him about helping you down the road if necessary?
Mods are subjective and hopefully they are done tastefully and correctly. You will at some point have to get your hands dirty and fix your pin, fuses, bulbs, rubbers, broken wires.... but before you know it you'll be replacing coils and rebuilding your flippers.
Most of anything can be fixed or replaced, especially with a high run pin like the Getaway. I knew nothing when I bought my Getaway 13 years ago and I can fix just about anything on the table and have done many repairs/fixes.
Just remember, there are plenty of help guides here to refer too or just start a post if you need help. This is a great source for help and I'm sure you'll be fine.
If you have any photos of the pin please post them and we can look it over but always look under the play field and in the back box for burnt connectors and burned out bulbs. Look at the display to see if it's clear and working correctly. Play the game to see if everything works, flippers, pop bumpers, shooter ...
Having said that...Yes, go for it!
Quoted from Kawydud:I know, that is what made mine so odd. And there was no evidence of a hack, just a different coil and plunger than my other 2. Should have taken pictures back when I was working on it. Was really frustrating not being able to find the correct part even though I was ordering exactly what the manual called out for.
That is odd... hmmm
Quoted from Charger500:This is the ad for it; https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/37974. It's over two hours away from me, so he won't be giving it a warranty. A local guy is warning me about warranties, saying don't get it if it's not covered for 6 months. And he says he will not work on it unless he sold it to me, so I can't get help from him. Another local guy has offered help if I get in trouble with it, and the forum here does seem to be very helpful. I can use a meter, and a soldering iron, and have both. I get that a 24 year old machine is bound to have issues. But if it's gonna have problems every other week, then I'm not sure I want the hassle. My motivation is to have a game room where my kids want to stay home and invite their friends over to play; you know, be the cool place to go. I knew a place like that when I was a teenager, and it was a cool thing. Thanks for the replies.
I guess warranties are fine but even new pins don't really cover much nor do they have a long warranty period so I wouldn't worry about that too much. If that local guy won't work on a pin he didn't sell, which is a sales approach he decided to take, I'm sure there is someone out there that will if needed.
The pin looks fine from the pics. The cabinet fade is typical for The Getaway and that can always be replaced if it bothers you. Obviously, it's not going to change how it plays. The price seems fair with the now unavailable Mountain Mod (I'm trying to find one myself), Donut Heaven, flashers (not my thing) and LEDs. You should ask for pics of under the PF, the boards and coin door. The best way to tell is to play the game but at quick glance it looks good.
Quoted from Charger500:Help a potential first pin owner out, please. I have a lead on Getaway. I may be getting it this weekend, if the planets align. As a newbie, I'm apprehensive about the potential problems that can go wrong. The person I'm hoping to get it from looks to know what he's doing, and has taken care of this Getaway, and added numerous mods to it. Am I asking for headaches getting this? Do I need an electronics degree to figure out how to fix it? Ideally, it won't have any issues, but by the number of posts on this thread about problems, I am having doubts about buying this pin, or any pin at all, if I'm going to have to be troubleshooting it all the time. Thoughts? Thanks for the input.
Let me try this again: I've owned my Getaway for 13 years, most of the issues have been minor but I have rebuilt the flippers, replaced the coils... I'm a bit crazy about it and have tried to make everything as new as possible. You do not have to do all of that but just know that these parts wear out; however, their life span is very long because they were meant for commercial locations that will get used and abused.
In the home environment you may never have to replace parts but if you do you have to replace them it could be many years down the road and you'll probably never have to do it again. Sure a fuse will blow but that's a good thing because it's saving the board if there's an issue, the rubbers will wear out but if you get good silicone ones they will last years. Plus LED bulbs greatly reduce the load and the heat so your chances of the connectors, plastics and boards going bad are slim.
Don't be concerned about what you're seeing here, this thread is long and The Getaway had a high production run so you're just viewing years of problems, with various owners, all in one place. The Getaway is a very solid, well built Williams pin that will give you years of enjoyment but like a car you'll need to maintain it... my teenage kids have already called dibs on the pins that I own so they will be in the family for a very long time.
Quoted from Charger500:I'm another step closer to getting the Getaway. Wife is OK with it. That's a big one. (Got her a multicade PacMan last week). It's cool too. Seller sent me shop pics. Very clean and organized under and behind. And it looks like Matthew won't hit us bad. Could be a solo trip to get it but could likely get help unloading once back.
Happy wife, happy life... You will need help for sure, don't try it alone. Good luck! Post pics when you get it into it's new home so we can give you an official "welcome"!
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I would at least do yourself a favor and go buy a cheap piano dolly (flat square cart with 4 casters and a cutout in the middle). This will save you a ton of pain and effort.
Something like this: http://www.lowes.com/pd/Milwaukee-Resin-Dolly/50235579
I have never used anything like that before but I have used with great success this dolly...
http://www.lowes.com/pd/Milwaukee-Steel-Standard-Hand-Truck/50042444
I've strapped the head to the body, wrapped up the pin and then secured it to the dolly. If you're worried someone can just help you keep it stable while you walk .
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:The manual states that a properly adjusted kickback should kick the ball into the tunnel, but mine rarely does this. How do I "properly adjust" my kickback?
It is supposed to go in the outhole from the kickback and mine will make it about 75% of the time. I had to adjust the kicker and make sure the ball is not making contact with the star post rubber. It's not as flawless as the shooter and I'm not sure if it has to do with the smaller coil or the smaller rod but I don't think it would be 100% regardless of the cause because it is pinball and nothing is 100%.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Any ideas on this anyone? In lieu of ideas, can you report the percentage of times yours "works", so that others of us at least have an idea of what we should realistically expect?
Also, I am assuming mine is correct, but I am obviously not the original owner. Therefore, some pics of one that works well would be very much appreciated. Anything you can do to show the mechanism from under the table and a top down shot with the plunger extended would at least let me see if mine even has the right parts and if something is obvious with the setup.
One more thing, there is a kickback setting in the menu system, but my understanding is that it pertains to the difficulty of enabling the kickback during play, and not the force with which it operates. Am I correct in this?
I cannot post pics atm, away from home but as I said mine works about 75%, repaired worn bits and adjusted angle of kickback shooter.
As for the settings, it allows it to be easy - difficult. Easy being lit on every ball and difficult having to light it every time. I think factory default is lit at ball 1 and then having to light it after that... nothing to do with the kickback coil strength.
Quoted from SUPERBEE:This is soo true. Just because we think its an amazing hobby, unfortunatly it doesnt always mean that younger people get it. You either appreciate pinball or you do not. No ill will either way but buy games that you like, not something that your hoping your kids will like.
We just got home from a weekend at the shore, my 2 teenage boys and I spent many hours in the arcades playing all sorts of pins, the experience of their youth may not translate initially when they are young because there are so many other options but those early pinball seeds we plant may someday grow, it just may take time. To my wife's dismay we are now looking to add a new pin to the collection... lol!
Quoted from Charger500:Newbie with three questions;
1) For piece of mind, I'm going to change out the 4 AA batteries on the back board. Should it be on or off when I change them? My understanding is that it should be on, so I don't loose settings, but I'm always fearful to do anything electrical when it's on, for fear of blowing something. And yes, it has been modded so that the battery pack is off the board.
2) And second question; I have an intermittent bulb on the playfield. It's LED, and most times is off, but sometimes on. I'm going to check it, with the game off, and see if reseating it will keep it on. I'll check the leads to see that it's making contact. Anything else to look for? Yes, I'll take the balls out first.
3) And last question; the lock to raise the playfield 90 degrees vertically up does not latch for some reason. I'm hesitant to start bending metal pieces to try and get it to latch. What could have happened and how can I get it to work again?
Thanks in advance. Loving this pin.
1) On
2) probably Bayonet #47 but post pic of what you're referring to... replace bulb and see what a new one does.
3) see pics...
Quoted from weaverj:doesn't look like you're pulling it out far enough, brah.
Correct, the parts are there so that's the good news.
When you slide out your playfield, hold it up slightly over the cabinet until you hear a click, the back pin should be in between the bracket, the latch will close over the pin allowing you to then lift up the playfield towards the back box.
Ah, those targets... A #55 wedge bulb. A few things to try are
1st and the easiest thing to try is swap in a different socket from the board to see if it works. You can buy new sockets here if that fixes the issue.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/24-8767
Make sure all the wires on the molex connector are in tact and making good contact. A handy tool to have is ...
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-IDC156
Make sure the socket and the contact on the circuit board are clean.
But if I had to guess, it's the pins on circuit board have become lose and need to be soldered. Many times the pins are loose and the connection falters. If you need help with that please let me know but you'll need to pull the board off the pin to make this repair...
EDIT: don't worry, that will not hurt your machine if you decide not to fix it but just know if it is the pins, more lights on the board could experience the same issues if more pins become loose.
Quoted from Charger500:I am meeting resistance, so I stopped
You shouldn't have to force it but it will take some effort to get the playfield to lock into the pins. I'll take some better photos for you so you can make sure everything is lined up correctly.
Quoted from Charger500:Thanks to y'all issue #3 is now resolved. The hinge had been jammed over the playfield rail edge. Pulling it off and lifting it up the correct way latched both sides in. Did it twice just to be sure. Issue #2 still persists. With the playfield in a comfortable vertical position I could get to it easier. Tried tweaking the socket pins but no luck. Don't have any spare sockets but I'll get some and try that. Thank you tilt, weaver, per3 and everyone else for the help.
No problem. It looks good... that lamp is a minor issue, annoying, yes, but no big deal. I still think it's probably a pin on the circut board but even that is minor.
BTW, Welcome, enjoy the "new" pin!
Quoted from Charger500:Just when I thought all was cool.
No worries, that's a switch error from lack of use, it happens on WPC games if a switch is unused for a certain length of time. This error can be cleared by doing a single switch test in the menu or will be cleared when used but this is a good time to learn some things.
This switch is located in the wire form ball return where the balls will lock for multiball so you will need to...
Take the lock bar and glass off
Open coin door
Turn your game on and hit enter test (black button)
Use the red buttons to cycle to "test menu" hit enter
cycle through until single switch T3 and hit enter
Use red volume button - to go to top lock 74
then wiggle the top lock switch until you hear it beep
Exit menu and restart
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Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Problem solved. Upon close inspection, I noticed that the white plastic cylinder insert was randomly sticking different distances out do the metal shaft. I took the assembly apart and determined that this was not as designed as the plastic piece had broken deep in the cylinder around the set pin. 5 minute Epoxy to the rescue! I spread it all over the inside of the metal shaft and the inside broken tip of the insert, seated the plastic rod firmly, waited 15 minutes or so and put it back into the pin. I've played four games since and it actually kicked the ball into the tunnel 2 out of 4 attempts. As I would have had to play literally dozens of games for this to work once (I actually can't remember the last time it did), I am considering my issue resolved.
I'm not sure what you mean; did you glue your coil sleeve to the inside of the coil?
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Also, I do appreciate everyone's latitude by not sleighing me for using incorrect terminology. I know that calling things what they are properly named helps others diagnose and support issues, but I've not quite achieved full pinball "geek" status yet (well on my way though, I hope!)
Not to worry, I would never call anyone out for something like that, heck I'm sure I still call things by the wrong name too, I just wanted to be sure you didn't glue anything to your coil.
1) What basic tools should I have on hand? I have already purchased and used a multi-bit magnetic driver and LED headlamp. Any specific tools like switch adjuster, flipper gauge, inclinometer, Novus #1, #2 cleaner, wax? I also have a multimeter and a complete solder station.
Multimeter
Soldering Iron
Fuse puller
Wrenches, sockets and open ended
Screw drivers, Phillips and flat head
Telescoping magnet
Flexible small mirror
Wire strippers/cutter
If you want to go crazy like me, molex tools... crimping, extractor and punch tool
2) What spare parts should I have on hand; bulbs, sockets, fuses.
Bulbs
Fuses
Sockets
Extra playfield an flipper rubbers, sleeve posts
Balls, stored correctly (Getaway magnets will magnetize the balls so its good to switch out).
Flipper bushings
Coil sleeves
Small assorted screws and nuts
Playfield wax
I keep extra coils, molex connectors, bumper caps... but that's a bit excessive
3) Balls; Which ones and where to get them?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PB116-5
Quoted from Kawydud:Did you see this one? https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/40267
Thank you. Yes, I did see that one and it's pretty good but I'm holding out for the other... it probably won't happen but you never know.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I know that you didn't really care of the one I did either, so ignore this link (it is for everyone else): http://thezumwaltfamily.com/getawaypinball
However do you have any idea where you got this picture or who originally offered it? I'm assuming that Photoshop is not your thing, or you would have already recreated something similar to this. Also, is this the only photo you have (would be helpful if you had higher rez version to zoom in and make out a little more detail)?
I am not saying that I am willing yet, but if I was to spend some time and develop something similar what would it be worth to you? Also, if I am able to create the artwork would you also want me to create the sticker itself or just give you the artwork for you to make your own sticker?
Its not that I don't like yours because it's good and I actually printed it out to see if it fit my "theme" but I like a more stock - whimsical version.
That's the only pic I can find, it's my understanding it was a decal included in a repo plastic set. This was on another Pisnider's machine...
I'm not good with photoshop.
Yes, I would be willing to buy one and I bet others would too.
Quoted from SUPERBEE:My apron graphics are way more pink than red. Not sure if they are faded or that is the color they are supposed to be? What color are everyone elses out there ? Any photos of the ramp post decal ? Did it come free with the apron decals ?
I got the decal years ago and they are more orange-red, but the apron was more pinkish, I assumed since I have front end fade that this was cause of the pinkish tones... here's a pic of the decal if it helps.
Quoted from SUPERBEE:My apron graphics are way more pink than red. Not sure if they are faded or that is the color they are supposed to be? What color are everyone elses out there ? Any photos of the ramp post decal ? Did it come free with the apron decals ?
This decal?
Quoted from Charger500:Got my Super Shineys. They're nice. Washed and waxed them before loading them in. A side by side comparison shows the difference between old and new. Saved the 2nd set in a Food Saver bag to keep them shiny.
mmm... Crown Royal, sorry, what was I looking at again?
Quoted from Charger500:So The Getaway got some action Saturday night. 35 teenagers over for a party. It performed very well. But today not so good. I first noticed issues when the Supercharger ramp would light up but not divert the ball in. Doing a divertor test shows that it does indeed work but not in game play. A total of 4 errors came up tonight;
Check switch 74 top lock,
Check switch 75 mid lock,
Check switch 84 enter left ramp,
Divertor error
I have some fiddling to do. I guess first I'll reseat the switches if I can find them and see if that clears the issues. Suggestions appreciated.
I thought the Top lock error was addressed already earlier in the thread but the fix is the same for that and mid lock.
I'll have to look at the other 2 issues later, sorry it's late.
BTW, when you have that many little ones mashing on the pin, it's bound to happen.
Quoted from Charger500:Through some more looking around my best guess is either the opto on the entrance ramp or the opto in the supercharger loop on the right. Found this thread that brought some insight; https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-diverteropto-problem#post-2825408. so I'll find the opto number and check it by blocking it during a switch levels test, I think, and see if one of them isn't registering. Will try reseating the connector or reflow the solder points.
Pardon me talking this through here. Trying to get this car back on the road.
You can run the opto tests from the menu... you can turn each one on or off from there.
Quoted from Charger500:OK. Thanks. So I need to check those individual optos, and the switches that they correspond to?
I'm not in front of my pin now but I think its in the super charger test menu. There are 2 test, start the test, roll a ball up the ramp from there you have the option of opening and closing each one or have a combo of them open...
http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-pinball/G/Getaway_HSII_OPS.pdf
section 1 page 16 and 17
Quoted from Charger500:I looked into it today. I think it's the Diverter Lo switch and the enter left ramp to the supercharger switch. Decided to punt and call The Pinball Doctor, Chuck English. He's gonna look at it next week. If I can figure it out before then, I'll call him off, but until I have some more experience under my belt repairing this I have to bite the bullet. Maybe Chuck will give me some tips. I'm defineately looking over his shoulder and asking questions. He says he's been fixing pinballs for 50 years. I bet he knows something after all that time.
Aside from showing an error on start up, what's going on? Is something not working? I haven't had the time to look into your issues other than the top lock-mid lock stuff so if it's just throwing an error but playing ok it may not be that big of a deal... (i.e. top lock 74 mid lock 75 errors). On an unrelated note, you can get a shifter error that doesn't show a fix but it's only that the shifter hasn't been used in one direction for a certain period of time. So some of these errors are nothing but that's not to say you shouldn't try to figure out what's going on with your machine.
Whatever you decide to do is up to you but if you pay someone to come over and fix the pin, watch everything he does, it will make you feel much better about digging into the game yourself. Trust me, in a short period of time you'll be very capable of handling the pin on your own.
Quoted from Charger500:Thanks monster. The ramp error is the opto that is on the ramp to the supercharger. The diverter issue is a big deal cause the ball never goes in the supercharger even though it's lit. It always exits down the left wire loop. I did both supercharger tests and tested the sc optics individually also. All good. The diverter gate will pen for the test and run the balls. Maybe it's just an adjustment on both of the issues, I'm just not seeing it. I know there is an answer and it will work again. It's just not in my wheelhouse yet since I so new at this.
Yeah, no worries we were all there at one time too. I'm not too familiar with these issues so I'll have to do some leg work but I'm wondering what settings you have on for the diverter, I'd check to see if you have it set correctly...
check in menu.
A2 Feature adjustment
15. Diverter Broken: on or off ---> you want off
Exit menu and restart the pin
To test this take the glass off. Start a game and then launch the ball pick it up and roll it into the super charger, did that fix it?
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Having seen the new "hair pin" turn decal, I decided to create one myself and put my own flare on it. As always, I am happy to share the artwork (Photoshop & PDF files), so please feel free to download and make your own: http://www.thezumwaltfamily.com/getawaypinball
Nice, now try to make one with an orange background opposed to the yellow...
Good work on all of your decals, I like the shooter cover and I'm waiting for the revised Donut Heaven 
I know I'm a real pain in the butt!
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:One more decal in the bag. This time it is a themed decal for the ramp support (middle target cover just below pop bumpers). As always, you may download artwork at http://www.thezumwaltfamily.com/getawaypinball and do with it whatever you like (except sell it, please).
How about adding this line to the decal....
This time we're going to nail that dirtbag!
Looking good!
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I cannot find a font anywhere close to the one used in the version you like. I would have to manually create the type (time consuming). Also, I cannot find that style of police car, and can't see it well enough to reproduce it accurately. Not saying I never will take a stab at it, but can't justify the time at this point for a one off version.
Bummer... well the font doesn't have to be exact, the police cars are pretty cartoonish, maybe I'll look around for some pictures.
Thanks
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I've now created a "dirtbag" version of the decal. Please redownload and the file from my site to acquire.
FYI, I tried to more closely model my text format after other plastics on the table.
Nice work!
Quoted from Charger500:Thanks Monster, I'll try that.
The frustration I'm having with these issues is like when a cat tries to bury a turd on a tile floor.
lol!
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Been stuck on a long boring conference call, so was Photoshop doodling. Here is what I have for you so far. Don't get too nit-picky as my intention is not to create an exact replica but a close resemblance. FYI, I am really having a hard time making out any detail of what those police cars should look like. If I am able to come up with something for the police cars, what do you want the 3 license plates to have on them?
Looking good!
Quoted from Charger500:My $.02; two of them should have these license plates;
Sure!
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Ended up having a hex post for a spot light that we slightly shortened, and all is right with the world again.
Now you see why on location operators would put in a screw, some other post, or some rubber bands... just to keep earning. That's why some of us could afford to buy these machines, because they needed the TLC but now a days it's crazy on the pricing. I'm still looking for my 3rd pin to complete my collection but I like to fix them as much as I like to play them. I'm glad you were able to get back up and running!
On a side note, I've decided that I like the yellow hairpin sign more than the orange, the color balances out the stop light and it's more visible during play. Thank you for taking the time to make the other color options.
Quoted from Djshakes:Thinking of joining the club. I know a guy that has one for $2400 locally shopped and no fade. Worth driving an hour to get it?
Yes, that's a fair price and only an hour drive
Quoted from Charger500:I've got one that you could enjoy fixing!!
Did you look at the settings in the menu?
If that did not fix it please post a few picture so we can look them over.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Thoughts on this before I finalize and post all the graphics?
Top pic is my design (please click on it to see full scale), bottom pic is all I had to go from at the request of another pinsider.
I' really liking some of these decals but that Donut Heaven is so nice.
I printed this out on clear label paper, then laminated it... I like the reflective properties of the og metal so that's why I did it that way, guess I'm going to do it again but now with the cars. Great work and thank you!
I'll post some of the other with your decal work later.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Not criticizing if that's the way you like it, but I designed to cut around outer yellow and leave black line running around sign (similar to real road sign). Should print to perfect size as long as you don't do any increase in your print driver (btw, you must download from my site and not just download the pics I post here in the forum).
Yeah, that's the way it is, you just can't tell from that photo.
Quoted from Charger500:Now I did it. Did the factory reset like Onlyest suggested. Cleared every issue except the diverter error. But now it wants quarters. How do I set it to free play?
Are you sure you looked into the setting for the diverter?
Feature
A3
17 free play ---> yes
Feature
A2
15
Diverter broken ---> off
Please ket me know if that doesn't clear it but ypu said it works in test mode?
Quoted from Charger500:Found free play. Yes diverter broken was already set to off.
Did the ball ever enter the super charger?
If it works in test mode it could be the opto not working, that switch should tell it to open.
Test the switch, if it's not working it could be...
Maybe it's not lined up correctly, like the safety feature on a garage door opener, a wire could have come off them or the opto could be bad.
Usually the ooto transmitter is bad, the reciever rarely fails but you never know.
That's where I'd start
Played around a bit and made a new plastic from Mr T's decal work, thanks again for spending time creating those images, I'm not sure if I'm going to leave it or not but here it goes....
This Time We're Going To Nail That Dirtbag!
Before
After
New Plastic (resized).jpg
New Plastic done (resized).jpg
New Plastic installed (resized).jpg
Quoted from Charger500:So in the manual, section 2-39, is item #10 the opto board for the entrance ramp, 3 super chargers, and made loop optos?
At this point looking at the boards isn't where you should start, unless you want to check they are making contact..
Go into single switch:
Menu --> Test ---> T3 -->
Cycle to
Switch #84
Then move your hand or ball or something solid in front of the opto and see if it registers.
If not make sure the opto are secure, in that section there isn't much room for them to be off line but the transmitter shoots an inferred beam to the receiver and if it's off line it wont register.
If it doesn't fix it, then look for loose wires that could have broken of the solder joints.
If no broken or loose wires, then replace both opto transmitter and receiver if not that then look at boards.
Refer to page 2-21 for the location of the opto, in front of the ramp, see detail listed part 20-24 and 19 -21 and page 2-40 switch #84, just behind the Super Charger ramp sign.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Okay, that's cool. What media did you print on and what kind of plastic is that?
So far... that one there is laminated printer paper glued one lexan, but I have one in lexan with laminated vinyl sticker paper and 2 of the same in plexiglass. I think lexan is stronger so I'll probably roll with one of those.
I'd be happy to send you one that I cut but I'm no professional craftsman, I just used my metal plate as a template and cut a few with a Dermal and an Exacto knife.
I think the Lexan is .093 and I bought it at Home Depot
I just used contact cement on one test and the vinyl sticker another which was a matte white Staples paper. I think that one is too muddy, a gloss vinyl one would be better, IMO. I also laminated all of them just to protect them from any potential bleeding.
There was no need to glue the sticker as it had an adhesive backing but it was a matte finish and a bit blurry, I think a glossy finish would be best.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Have all you Getaway owners seen this?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/warning-this-thread-may-cost-you-money-comments-please/page/4#post-3389319
Yes, I saw the thread. To be honest I'm not sure how I feel about led speaker lights, never had them and I don't know if they would distract me during play but I do like the lighting effect on the gauges.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:You know, you've given some great details on this. I'm going to see if I can find the raw materials and try my hand at making one. If I fail, I will definately take you up on making one for me. So, do you smooth/polish around the edge of the plastic somehow and what type of Dremmel bit did you use? Sorry for all the questions, but I love how you made the piece light up.
I just used the fiber cutting wheel, then 100 grit sandpaper, then to 500 grit, I suppose I could buff it too but it's not a issue so I'll leave it like that for now.
Alright Charger, since your opto test failed on single switch test #84, ramp entrance, please test opto for ramp exit single switch test #85 located in the pic below ( same way, Menu > Tests > T3 > switch 85 )... if the 3 SC opto work and this one works as well, I doubt it's a board issue. I'll have to look at the board itself and I suppose it could be a pin/connector issue but that unlikely.
EDIT: you know what I'm going to suggest doing because it's probably driving you nuts trying to sort this out but if you're willing, able and motivated, assuming switch 85 is working swap out those opto to location of switch 84. You'll still have a SC that isn't working correctly but at least you'll know if it's the opto that are bad or just wait until you receive your new opto and replace the ones at location 84 but if that does not fix the issue then we are back to square one.
That's a switch edge test, it cycles through everything, you need to isolate the test in single switch tests.
The diverter test itself only test the diverter and not the switch that causes it to function.
So the good news is the diverter works, the 3 SC opto work and the ramp exit opto work, that leave to ramp entrance opto as the probable cause. Either those are bad or out of whack, try to loosen the transmitter, then start your opto switch #84 test and move it around a little while testing and see if it works.
BTW: I'm pretty sure the diverter test is in T4: Solenoid test
Quoted from MustangPaul:Oh yeah, I'm on the list to get one. I've been wishing someone would do this for years and it's finally happening. I'm gonna try a red gel over the gauges in back and see what that looks like.
I'm not sure I fully understand all of his pricing, add this or that... but I agree it looks nice. I'd really appreciate it if you were to post some pics when you get this and what you actually bought.
Quoted from Charger500:So since I had it open o decided to do some cleaning and waxing. Cleaned and waxed lol the stainless ramps. Took off the mountain mod to get in tighter to the ramp. Cleaned in the back of the playfield; around the loops as far as I could go; behind the poppers. In and around where I could reach. So put it all back together and decided I like it better without the mountain mod. I think I want to sell it. Like the more open look and can see ball travel better. Pics attached. What to with the non working diverter lo issue? And the ramp opto seems to line up now.
Well you know that diverter closes, it's been closed for a while so don't panic yet.
The SC test speed is fine but it it's hitting the diverter flap there's a set screw on it so you can move it around
Oh... well you can always pm of needed because I'm not sure where or what the is hitting. You can post a pic of where it's hitting bit I will tell you it's very difficult to get the diverter flap totally clear of the ball and still work correctly.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Finished making my custom plastic above the middle targets, and love it. Thanks for the great idea and instructions.
Nice job, I knew you could do it!
Mine hits the right flipper 100% unless the upper flipper is out of whack which will cause it to make contact and kick out. Perhaps check the level but it should go around the loop and hit the right flipper....
See the manual page V
Right flipper loop should return ball to the right flipper, left flipper loop returns ball to the left flipper.
EDIT: I see your issue is launching but it's the same loop and should return to right flipper unless you flip the upper one. see page I
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Search my name in this topic and download spreadsheet at http://thezumwaltfamily.com/getawaypinball
I outline every bulb type and placement you need, and list my choices for playfield, backbox, and others. While you can feel free to copy exactly, I would suggest you change up to whatever colors you may like. Also, buy some extras as you may want to experiment a little.
I purchased all my LEDs from Comet, but I know there are other good suppliers like Titan, Cointaker, Pinball Life, etc. Also, be sure you get all non-ghosting bulbs. Finally, as I recall, you should be able to fully convert to LED for well under $200.
One more note, when you are switching out bulbs do it with the pin turned off! It is my experience and many others here that it is too easy to short out something by touching wires when working under the playfield. It is tempting to see immediately what you are doing, but take your time, do a few bulbs at a time, check your work, then repeat. Also, you must take advantage of having bulbs out and clean the underside of your inserts with cotton swabs and alcohol. LEDs with dust covered inserts still creates dingy looking lighting. LEDs with clean inserts make the table pop!
You'll only need non ghosting under the PF inserts, if you do not get NG then there is a delay on them turning off which is the ghosting effect, lights under the plastic or ones that are always on do not need to be NG.
As Mr T suggests, whenever working with the lights and just about anything else, power off your pin.
Quoted from Charger500:This seems like another concern. The list is getting longer. Shouldn't the plunger line up with the ball. Can't figure how to adjust it. And also looks like I need new plunger rubber, right?
Not necessarily, see mine and it's not just a tip but an entire rod. If the ball makes it all the way around the loop then you're fine, if it does not then you'll need to play with how it's lined up.
Edit 2: If you do need to adjust the shooter because it's not going around the loop you have to remove the apron and there are 2 hex screws that hold the mounting bracket to the play field, so you'll have to loosen them and move it slightly in one direction and tighten them back up, it's just trial and error to get it set right by your table (it's not a cookie cutter position).
Quoted from MustangPaul:What I did was clean the underside of the inserts real good and used Comets 2 smd white clear dome bulbs, white because the inserts aren't color bombed then and the text on all the inserts stand out MUCH better and the facets of the inserts sparkle like the way they do in a modern Stern game. My 2 cents.
Comet twin smd are awesome, that's what I used as well, frosted warm white under the plastics for warm tones and natural white under the plastics with cool tones. I did use color matched twin smd and NG under certain PF inserts mixing in twin faceted too... I just played around with them to find what I like. This is all very subjective to what you may like.
I agree with Stang, my pin from 1992 shines as well as a pin with new led boards installed. Honestly, I rather have the option of replacing my lights with colors and styles that I like too bad this isn't possible with some newer pins.
Quoted from Charger500:It gets around but it's not speeding by any means. More of a cruise.
That's good, the launch isn't about the speed so if it makes it around the loop I'd leave it alone.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Looks great but why don't you have the center drain lit yet.
Thank you! You know me Stang, everything in moderation.. lol!
The only thing I'm thinking of is that new light up panel but without the led speaker lights. I'm waiting for you to get yours installed and review it first 
Quoted from Charger500:I don't believe I've had a tour of yours. Care to show what the rest of us have to strive to achieve? I'm only up to page 31 of this thread. Pics or a link please. Mine has LEDs and some extras, but nowhere near the bling that some of y'all have.
Sure I'll post more pics later but as you get further into the this thread I'm sure you'll see more.
Quoted from MustangPaul:I see, I'll give you a little more time to get it on there.
I'm getting the full boat on that mod, you know me I tend to go full blown. And I will post a full review but just remember you can't upgrade once you buy it.
lol, yup I know and appreciate your direction too.
Oh... hmm, well maybe I'll wait for your review since you've already stepped up to the plate and ordered one.
Quoted from Charger500:I just noticed; I got member status. I'm not a Newbie anymore!
Now another official "Welcome"!
Please let us know if your error #84 and diverter issues are resolved when you get your new optos installed.
Quoted from Charger500:Am I crazy to be looking at another pin already? Do I want more headaches? Am I addicted? Is there a 12 step program? I found an ad for a Judge Dredd near me on craigslist? I like the artwork on it and it seems like an OK game? richmond.craigslist.org link
lol! Hook, line and sinker! Welcome the wonderful world of pinball 
JD is a cool theme and a decent game but it is a wide body, if that matters. Read up on the review section but that probably a fair price (all those pins are priced well). One thing for sure you probably will be ok at those price points assuming they don't need $300-$400 in work.
https://pinside.com/pinball/archive/judge-dredd
It took me many years to get my second but I was waiting to find a certain pin. Now I'm searching for my 3rd and that's my cap but once again I have several specific titles that I'm looking to buy so my selection is limited.
Quoted from mann0mann:New Getaway owner....waiting on a order to show up from pinball life to rebuild my flippers. Would like to start the LED process. For those that made the recommendation of Comet LED"s and specifically the twin/two smd bulbs. I'm a little confused on what to order.
Under Non-Ghosting. The only twin smd bulbs they show are the ones with the faceted lens. But you guys referenced clear and frosted lenses? I want to start with doing all the inserts first.
Is this what I should be ordering?
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd3528-ng.htm
I used NG twin faceted smd in the orange bonus, red gears, center orange shift, traffic light toy and under target inserts. You are correct, the rest is NG 1 smd frosted all color matched. Under the plastics I used the twin smd frosted...
Quoted from MustangPaul:This is what I use in the inserts, just natural white. The inserts aren't color bombed then and it's easy to see the decals on the inserts.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd-ct-ft.htm
That's the thing with LED lights, it's easy to over saturate colors and many do but they like it... everyone has their opinion. I happen to agree with Stang on this but I was able to get a similar effect using the color matched NG single smd with the frosted lens (where I didn't use the twin faceted on the inserts). IMO, I think the biggest mistake people make in using colored bulbs are under the plastics, that's where you start to get the over saturated colors
Quoted from MustangPaul:The 3 red flasher domes on the chrome supercharger plastic.
This is what I used...
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/5smdflash.htm
Edit: posted wrong link
Quoted from Kawydud:Spent the weekend working on my HS2. Flipper assemblies came out very nice, first time using all new brackets from Pinball Life.
So shiny!
Quoted from SuperPinball:Just joined the club. Spent 4 hours removing the mylar . She cleaned up real good.
Welcome!
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Mine came with mylar in the pop-bumper area, and I've decided to just leave it alone for now unless someone can convince me I need to pull it up.
You should leave the mylar
Quoted from SUPERBEE:Wow, ive never seen a Getaway with full mylar before. Maybe its an early playfield without the diamond coat on it ? Does your playfield have the diamond coat stamp on it down by the left drain ?
That is odd, it should have Mylar in the pop bumper area and ball return on wire form area only, I wonder if that was installed after the fact.
BTW: it's my understanding that there were several PF manufacturers back in the day and Diamond Plate was the term one company used for their clear coating process. As an example, CFTBL PF are all clear coated but there are some with the Diamond Plate stamp which only means it was produced by that company; however, all the CFTBL PF were clear coated. There was also a difference in the pink tones from the various companies that produced those PF and that's why you see some light pink and hot pink Cadillacs. So when you see the light pink ones it does not mean its faded or worn... sorry, I digress from the topic.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Did you ever update to new one with police cars? Would love to see it.
Well I've decided I like the one without the cars for now, especially when I made it transparent. It's very subtle and hard to see in the pictures but it has a metallic look that I like.
I made one with the cars in a white back ground that is my fall back.
I appreciate your hard work!
No cars with clear decal
No Cars (resized).jpg
Cars with white decal
Cars (resized).jpg
Table clear decal with no cars
Table No Cars (resized).jpg
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:You still need to light that speed limit sign just like your sling gauges . . . it's begging for it.
Hmm, yes, I think you may be right. Now I have to dig around to find one and try it out.
Edit: Yup, still have plenty of post light sitting around
Quoted from Charger500:Yes, and I've been working on the left side alot over the past two weeks, but this morning was a test and the results were good. Replaced the entrance ramp tx and rx optos and it works now. Diverter opens to let the ball in the supercharger. Coffee will not be the next beverage to go in the PinGulp. I'll be drinking and driving this weekend!
Now I want to figure out how to get some more speed out of the supercharger. It lopes around but I've seen video of ones that go alot faster.
Big shout out to The Onlyest for lots of help over PM to get me through this. Also tiltmonster gave me some good tips and where to check. Appreciate the help from all of you here. Very thankful.
Good news! What are the speed test results?
Quoted from Charger500:I'll do a speed test again, but before the opto issues it was around 110. And I'm assuming 110 means the number of milliseconds between each made loop pass, since a lower number means faster?
You could be right and honestly I'm not certain what it measures but Williams considered anything over 145 to be a problem. I think the best range is high 70's to low 90's, I'll test mine again but I think I'm in the mid 80's now....
Quoted from Charger500:I looked back, and I see I started having this issue 10 days ago. Seems like a lifetime already. I have tools all over the game room. Wife has been patient with me. She likes a neat house.
Call me lame but I haven't been to RM yet.
Just think about how much you're learned in that short period of time and you're probably over your fear (if you had any) of messing around with your pin (plus you saved yourself some money by not calling in a pinball repair guy).
Quoted from Charger500:So my supercharger issue. The balls runs around like normal but at like every 8th rotation it gets caught at the opening on the inside top left. See pic pointing at where it hits. And now also when done looping, the diverter closes too early and the ball hits it and sends it back down the entrance ramp instead of going through the "hair pin" turn. Yes it was normal before I started having issues with the opto. Yes, I did mess with it some; but all I did was clean the magnet optos and made loop opto with alcohol and q tips and wax the stainless ramp. I know, why did you mess with it if it was working.b as far as speed goes, I am getting 90s, so speed is OK. I have new optos for the other 4 optos. Not sure if I should swap them out or not if that would make a difference.
I'm not sure why it would hit the inside of the loop, that's really odd, the force should keep the ball to the outside of the loop. I'd run a SC test to see if the 3 magnet optos are working but with that speed test it's hard to believe they aren't working correctly. Perhaps the gate is moving or not aligned correctly hitting the ball then forcing it to move inside?
The diverter gate closing on the ball can be several issues just a set screw adjustment, or maybe the spring on the diverter isn't strong enough, or maybe the balls have become magnetized and need to be replaced, or maybe the SC is too slick... the exit opto should be working if the diverter is closing.
Quoted from MustangPaul:That's better. I had a EATPM and traded it. But "I" have the boob tl and you don't.
Quoted from weaverj:5/16 maybe. just order a kit
5/16 ID
I use these guys but did swap out all the rings...
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=52
http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1000
There are 2 versions of this game. Unless otherwise noted, the playfield images shown here are of the first version. Notable differences are as follows:
1. First version was not diamond coated
2. Art work on playfield for the 1st, 2nd, etc. "gear lights" is yellow in the first version, and fluorescent orange with the word "gear" added on later versions. e.g.: "1st Gear" vs "1st". Also, the first version has the words "Supercharger" in front of the super charger entrance.
3. Front cabinet decal on first version is of the head lights of the car on the backglass. This was changed on the later version and the word "Getaway" was added under coin door.
4. First version has single playfield hinge, not allowing playfield to be pulled forward for servicing. Switches and brackets were also moved on later versions to suit later style playfield hinge system. The early version also has 2 extra GE lights on the right side of the playfield, but they were removed to fit the new hinge system.
5. First version used a standard 23/850 coil and bell amature assembly for the ball launcher; later version used a much larger, more powerfull assembly.
6. Added ball deflector to rear glass channel on later versions to prevent air balls from falling into cabinet (Top left corner).
7. Bar code added to left return lane under diamond coat on later version
You learn something every day...
EDIT: If I had to guess it would be these two, under the plastics on the right side...
U.3 Reset H.S.T.D.
or you can...
A.4 H.S.T.D Adjustments
Reset each of the following, if that's what you mean, these are the back up high scores and champion defaults. A.4) 10-14
The diverter opening too slowly isn't uncommon, cleaning (changing) the coil sleeve and getting a new spring may help but working on it is a chore.
Quoted from Charger500:I've seen that thread. I can just come out and say that I don't want to do that. Yes, I may be forced to, but not at this time. Not feeling it.
Hard to blame you...
Quoted from Charger500:Calling tiltmonster; Back on page #48, post #2376, you did the gauge lightup. I'm ready to do this. What and how, please. I assume it's on the general illumination circuit. Don't want to screw this up and make it all worse by futzing with it, so I will probably need a hand hold through this project. Thanks as always.
That idea was from MustangPaul but he used led light strips, I merely switched them out for the Star Post Lights from Comet and used double sided tape to attach them to PF plastics below. These seemed to work well based on the gauge shape and the lights being round, either way works fine.
As for the connecting them into the GI, yes, you are correct, I tapped into the GI line but I solder all my new lighting mods; however, you can follow Mr. T's advise and use the alligator clips and Matrix wires from Comet.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Post Lights (natural white): http://www.cometpinball.com/4-SMD-6-3V-LIGHTED-POST-LIGHT-p/mtxpost.htm
Alligator Clips: http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/wirepack.htm
Extension Wires: http://www.cometpinball.com/MATRIX-Wires-p/mtxconnect.htm
I did use the Matrix system for the multiple Star Post Lights in other areas where there were several lights needed and I have also used these Star Posts Lights as flashers, tapping into a set of flashers where I wanted the Star Posts to act as flashers.
Edit: Point of clarification, I still soldered the matrix wire with the connector to the GI, then ran the line up to where I needed it, then I used the splitter so I could connect multiple lights.
EDIT: As for part # 31-1695, IMO, it looks ugly and in my 13 years owning the Getaway I've never had an issue not having it installed on pin but that's just my experience.
Quoted from Charger500:Right. Super easy, until I fry a board. Excuse my ignorance here. Assume I have no experience with circuit board electronics. First I need to find the gi board. Someone told me when I was looking at pins that I should not buy one that has been hacked. No offense, but adding alligator (or we used to call them roach) clips to a board sounds like a hack. I'd rather solder or make a butt splice crimp and a more permanent solution. Tell me I'm wrong, but explain why. I have 18 gauge 2 conductor shielded cable I can use. I guess first I need to look in the manual for where even the gi board is. Someone told me, if it works, don't mess with it. I won't jump into this until I'm confident I can successfully complete it. This may all sound elementary to you, but I'm still learning here. Thanks for the input, as always.
You don't attach them to the board, you attach them under the PF on the legs of a light socket, easy on easy off... but as I said, I solder mine. With LED lighting you can add more lights because the load is less than incandescent so the boards aren't stressed.
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