Hey, where did you get those flipper toppers?

Is that yellow or orange, and is that the teal topper with green?

BTW, how have your target stickers held up?

I am a newbie to pinball, and just acquired a Getaway HS2. I am doing a variety of upgrades, and from what I've seen in the forum I like the Red-Yelloy-Green bumper mod with the BriteCaps bumper lighting. My plan was to go with the colored lighting matched to the bumper cap: Red-Red, Yellow-Yellow, Green-Green. However, I have a few questions for those of you who have done it.

1) Did you use colored lighting or white lighting with just a colored cap?
2) Can you buy the caps from BriteCaps that go with the lights or do these not fit our pin?
3) Regardless of #2, I cannot seem to find a transparent green bumper cap from all the suppliers I have found online. Any suggestions?

For those of you who have gone with the translucent rubber rings, I have a couple of questions:

1) Did you use 2.5" or 3.0" for the slingshots (calls for 2.5", but have read some places that owners of other pins thought they were too tight, so they went with 3")
2) I am looking to acquire from Pinball Life, but they do not carry the 7/16" ID (supplier does not make them). Schematic calls for 8 of these. Is there an alternate supplier or an alternate size I should use (PBL has either 3/4" or 3/8" ID rings).

Where did you get your jeweled caps? I can't seem to find green anywhere. Also, are you using the same color LEDs as caps or white?

Where did you get your high speed flipper toppers? Is there one for the top right flipper?

Guess I was being too literal being new to pinball. So non-Williams toppers will fit the Williams poppers (i.e. the only difference is the styling)?

Has anyone every inventoried or had access to a list of hardware used on the playfield (i.e. screws, nuts, washers, etc.)? Most of mine are in bad shape (highly oxidized to the point that it takes away from the overall appearance) and I want to replace them. I just acquired the pin, and am doing some updates along with cleaning/waxing. If I was going to take everything apart a section at a time anyway, I hoping to be prepared ahead of time to put it back together with new hardware.

Okay, that's a lot of screws. Guess I need to try to figure out what is what, and how to decipher the coding.

Thanks for the reference.

I just ordered one of these. Referring to the knob, how did you end up removing it? Did you just cut it off, did you try heat, some other way? Anything else from your experience that would be nice to know before attempting upgrade on my own?

I was wondering of the light green is actually "teal" when ordering? I am ordering a bunch of stuff from PBL, and this is the only one I see. Shows light green in photo of choices, but only "teal" in drop down selection (I would be happy with light green, but don't want to end up with a bluish-green).

Well, my shifter just arrived but it does not work. Did not come with instructions on how to change battery. I removed the cap, but just contains the switch as far as I can tell. Searched the web, but cannot find instructions. Any guidance on how to replace batteries is greatly appreciated.

Even with all the work, based on your pics the end result looks well worth it. I was wondering what those shards of black mess were in your photos - Dremel & hacksaw at work?

2 of the screws are for securing the button at top, the other 4 are faux. When removed, I have nothing inside that points to where a battery should go (I've put batteries in thousands of devices over my long life, but this thing has nothing even resembling battery leads inside of it). The packaging looked like it had been opened before even though sold as new (also no batteries were included even though package said they were), so I'm thinking something is missing and I am going to exchange - 2 more days of waiting . . . bummer!

Just finished a DYI of the apron graphics. When I got my pin, the apron graphics were shot (all faded to a light pink, could barely make out the "W" logo, etc.) While I found some vinyl stickers online for $30+ s&h, this was a little more than I wanted to pay. My solution was to carefully measure everything then redesign by hand in Photoshop (probably better suited job for Illustrator, but my PS proficiency is far superior). Once designed, I printed onto high gloss ultra photo paper on my Epson 6 color inkjet then cut out everything with a paper cutter (straight lines) and by hand with scissors (curved lines). After cutting, I ran a fine pointed black Sharpie around all edges to cover the exposed white edges of the paper. Finally, I put some double-faced tape on the back around all edges and in center of each graphic, cleaned the apron well, and then stuck everything in place on the apron. I think it came out well (even tough I did not do color match exactly, I'm happy with how it looks), and I saved myself $30+ even though I had to put a couple of hours of labor into it.

See pics below for before & after. Graphics included: center Williams logo (4x6 paper), right apron triangle (5x7 paper), left apron triangle (5x7 paper), right apron horizontal lines (8.5x11 paper), and left apron horizontal lines (8.5x11 paper). I also printed both cards on the same printer using high quality photo paper.

PM me if you like, and I'll be happy to provide you with the Photoshop files I made for you to create your own graphics (if you don't have PS, I can convert to high quality PNG, JPG, PDF or whatever other format you may need).

IMG_0655_(resized).JPG
IMG_0653_(resized).JPG
IMG_0654_(resized).JPG
IMG_0014_(resized).JPG
IMG_0015_(resized).JPG
IMG_0016_(resized).JPG
IMG_0017_(resized).JPG
IMG_0018_(resized).JPG
IMG_0019_(resized).JPG

Thanks. I got cards from here: http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/instruction (slight change of size required), but everything else was my work.

Okay, I used this as a reference & did a visual/manual inventory of what I wanted to change on top. I think I got everything I needed ordered and some stuff came from local hardware store, but my conclusion is that whoever owned Williams at the time must have had a brother-in-law who owned a fastener business (i.e. did they really need to use that many different types/sizes of screws?)

Thank you for the reference, as it was very helpful.

Hmm, while the comment may be a passive trolling attempt, I am going more after spaghetti than rice given the theme of the machine . . . vroom, vroom!

Probably 2 kinds of opinions here: 1) the purist and 2) the modder. Personally, I plan on enjoying my machine for years, and I want to put my own creative touches on it to make it unique as long as game play is not adversely impacted. If you are looking at the machine as an investment and plan to own it for a relatively short time then I would say keep it original along with any restorations being accurate to how the machine came. If you are like me, and plan to put it in your game room for years to come (maybe forever), then customize it, enjoy the projects while learning more about the machine, and have fun playing regardless of what anyone else may think about it. Just my 2 cents.

For those of you have done a speaker upgrade, is it really worth it - i.e. is the sound noticeably improved? Can you describe the difference you hear, or better yet make a recording available? I am considering a low cost 1 for 1 replacement of back glass speakers and cab speaker per earlier in this thread.

http://www.parts-express.com/pyle-wave-plx32-3-1-2-coaxial-speaker-pair--267-770
http://www.parts-express.com/prv-audio-6mb200-4-6-1-2-midbass-woofer-4-ohm--294-2703

btw, how do you get La Grange out of your head for at least 24 hours after playing this pin?

Not sure what a real Lambo shifter would cost me, but I can't imagine it is cheap.

Nevermind, answered my own question.

Capture_(resized).PNG

I think something is wrong here. I had a good game, but I really don't know what I am doing yet. This score from an actual game I played with 5 balls and no cheating (I call it cheating since we still are working on the machine and often play with glass off where we have a tendency to catch the ball and extend play). The only think I know is that I had one sequence where I hit the super charger ramp like 10 times in a row, but it doesn't make sense that it produced a score in the billions, or does it? I don't know what a good score is on this game as I have only had it for a week and really don't have a point of reference. Most of my games are around 50 million or less, so I assume this is some sort of bug. I am running L1 firmware with L2 on ordered and on the way.

IMG_0032_(resized).JPG

Did you just do a one-for-one replacement of the 3 speakers, or did you also add in a crossover & L-Pad? Also, I noticed your large speaker has a low frequency response of 125 Hz (which is pretty high). Why did you choose this over a lower base woofer that has a sub 35 Hz frequency response on the low side?

Has anyone replaced the incandescent bulb in the flash/mars/beacon lamp (that red police light on the top of the back box) with an led one? If so, which bulb did you use and how do you like it?

Do you have original translight? If so, can you post pick with it on?

Doh! Sorry, wasn't paying attention that those were your pics.

Pics and/or video to show it off?

Got my replacement shift know and key starter installed today. Adds a touch of color and fun, and my son loves it. BTW, getting the old knob off was not nearly as easy as you made it sound (and you didn't sugarcoat it!)

FYI, upon arrival the batteries in my know were dead. Luckily, I have thicker CR2032's all over the place for my cycling stuff and these work great one battery at a time. They are 3V each, so may not last as long as double stacked of the thinner ones, but we'll see how it goes.

Has anyone personally performed paint repairs on their play area? There is some regular wear and tear on my newly acquired machine, but there are also some very bad/noticeable paint chips around the flipper area. I've searched around and also been given some good advice on how to treat the area to prevent further damage, but I possibly wanted to actually "repair" the area (i.e. paint it as close to original as possible). Not really sure where to start, what kind of paint to use, best colors to use, etc. Any first had experience/advice with photos of results is greatly appreciated.

playfield_(resized).jpg

Does anyone have a fully intact one of these they are willing to part with?

P.S. Thanks for the pic, Grinder (I hope you don't mind).

ramp_(resized).jpg

Wow, that thread has some detailed restoration techniques. I was hoping to maybe plop down some black paint and call it a day (i.e. just looking for a temporary "fix" to color the bare wood). If I were to follow your model and use a high quality acrylic paint applied with a brush, what clear coat did you use and how did you apply it (brush, spray, other)?

My left sling stopped functioning yesterday. When testing the coil, it fires correctly. However, when testing switch it will not close. I looked underneath and no loose wires. When testing by hand both switches definately close and make contact, but do not register as closed. As far as I can tell, this is the only thing not working (well I do have a opto issue on the supercharger, and am assuming there is no relation). Any ideas?

Well, I figured it out. Somehow one of the harness connectors located in the backbox behind the speakers had become partially disconnected from its interface. Not sure if this occurred naturally during transport and finally shook loose or if I somehow did it while working on the machine. Sorry for the false alarm, but hopefully may help someone else in the future.

Solenoid worked fine. Thanks for the support, but please see my edited post above.

Now my next problem I just noticed. 2 of the 3 pop bumper lights do not illuminate. Bulbs are verified good (switched with known working ones). Illumination test lights lower bumper but not upper 2.

Well, I discovered the cause of this. J120-1 and J120-2 GI power from main board connectors were burnt to a crisp. I disconnected the connector and put a meter on pins 1 & 7 then 2 & 8 and voltage was good (main board not damaged). Since I don't have one of these 11 pin connectors laying around, I broke off the burnt part of the connector, plugged the good part back in (included pins 7 andthen fashioned plugs from speaker connectors. I then crimped freshly stripped pin 1 & 2 wires to the connectors, connected to J120, and voila! Not only did the broken pop bumpers illuminate, but so did several other bulbs. This should hold until I get the correct connector ordered.

I just got a large order of parts in including all new optos. Looks like I have a soldering party in my near future.

Thanks for all the great info. I am in the process of putting together my LED kit, so hopefully I too will not have to worry about such things very soon. I guess I will see how the board holds up before making the decision to replace it.

I tried what appeared to be a high quality extra bright white auto LED - it was about 1/2 the brightness of the normal bulb so I sent it back

Just to clarify, which color bulb did you go with? Did you observe the brightness to be as good or better than the original bulb?

Just upgraded my speakers with these along with a sub-woofer:

Right Side 3.5": https://www.parts-express.com/pyle-wave-plx32-3-1-2-coaxial-speaker-pair--267-770
Left Side 5.25": https://www.parts-express.com/pyle-pl53bl-blue-label-5-1-4-triaxial-speaker-pair--267-080

Since I had to buy backbox speakers in pairs, I now have one extra of each. Since I only have one pin, I wanted to offer them to the to anyone who wants to buy them. I will sell them for 1/2 price since you would be getting 1/2 the speakers (1 of each size). This would be $15 + whatever the cost of shipping is to you. May not make sense once shipping is added, but thought I would offer.

Please PM me if interested.

How did you light up the chute?

Can't seem to open your link, but here is the one I went with: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dc160s-8-6-1-2-classic-shielded-woofer--295-306

- you want a low frequency response for the bass (this one has 33 Hz on the low side)
- needs to be 8 ohms Impedance from what I remember
- 6 1/2 inches is a simple swap out with the original

Well, just finished working all day to get my new pin in shape. All new shiny hardware (old stuff was oxidized), polished all plastics, cleaned all metal, new flippers and full rebuild on all 3, fixed supercharger by replacing an opto, playfield clean and wax, all new rubbers, several other minor things, and 3 new shiny balls. Now I just need to finish putting together my LED list, and I think I am done messing around for now, and can start enjoying playing it.

However, I did make one big mistake today when I went to polish what I thought was an aluminum supercharger. I can't tell you what kind of damage aluminum polish does to silver paint on plastic. Ended up having to scrub, sand, prime and paint both pieces. By look and feel, I could have swore it was aluminum, but clearly it is not.

Well, now it is just brushed nickel color with a clear coat (basically, stuff I already had around the house to make plastic overflow drain covers match the rest of our bath hardware). It looks okay, but not chrome shiny for sure. However, it looks better that the condition it was originally in (dull and dirty . . . the reason I was attempting to polish it). Thanks for the links, but not sure that shiny new one worth it to me right now given all the other recent expenses getting the pin in tip-top shape. Guess this hobby is like just about everything else I get into - I end up spending significant amounts more that I ever planned to. Even so, I enjoy the results and especially learning all about how it works.

Has anyone done paint touch up to their getaway? If so, I was wondering which colors you had buy to make the orange and light blue (I am considering Createx paint per Vid's guide in the forums).

I noticed this weekend that the ramp in the back of the machine (the one that moves up and down to the ball capture lane on the right) looks like it was supposed to have one of those thin blue metal pieces at the base of the ramp. Can someone please confirm, and if so let me know the dimensions of the metal plate?

Hard to see in pic, but 2 rivits at base of ramp, and looks like one has a piece of shrapnel with it.

image_(resized).jpeg

Pinball life has this one, but I don't know if it is a fit or Not: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4197

Also, I've never rivited before, so I guess I need to figure that out.

Love it! I've been considering this exact mod, and now I know it looks great.

Does anyone have a complete and accurate inventory of all lamps in Getaway HS Ii? The manual list flashers and inserts, but not GI as far as I can tell. I've looked at kits from various suppliers, but they vary from each other and the manual. I am looking to perform a full LED upgrade including GI, inserts, backbox, and all flashers.

I installed L2 last week since the pin had L1 when I acquired it, and my son just experienced the infinite multi-ball bug (we'll if 10 minutes or so counts as infinite) over the weekend. He was so proud of the score he had going after about 10 minutes of multi-ball, so he wasn't too happy when I just powered the machine off in the middle of his game. I figured there was no way I was letting the kid beat dad's high score, especially illegitimately!

We've probably hit the tunnel 100+ times since I installed L2, and this was the only time we've seen the issue.

I was waiting for someone to reply this, as I didn't have the pinballs to do it myself.

Any responders? Did everyone here just buy kits? Were your kits complete or did you have to true-up some lamps? Who did you buy from outside of the normal suspects (e.g. comet, cointaker, etc.)?

Thanks everyone. Just to clarify, I am not really looking for color choices, but types and quantities of each socket. I spent a few hours tonight and I think I've calculated correctly. I plan on double checking and deciding on bulb types and colors. Once I finish the project, I will post a listing for everything to help out others in the future.

Looks like we are slightly off. Here is what I have after multiple visual inspections and going through test menus (I could have easily missed some):

Inserts: 69 (excludes start button but includes every insert light as stepped through in test mode)
Playfield GI: 30
Backbox GI: 30
Playfield Flashers: 12
Backbox Flashers: 5

My Total: 146 (excluding 3 jets since I have LED disks in them)
Your Total: 151 (excluding 3 jets)

Looks like you have:
- 1 additional #906 flasher
- 4 additional #44
- While our #555 count matches, you show 31 in backbox, but I think there are only 30 in backbox + 5 flashers

Probably my best bet is to buy a few extras just to cover possible short counting.

Seems like most go with frosted for playfield GI and clear/no dome for inserts? Comments on what pin owners have liked best?

I count 17 flashers too, but my free ride flasher is a #89 bayonet not a #906 wedge which flips my flasher numbers from yours. Thanks for all of your help. I agree, and am definitely going to buy extras but just want to make sure I am covered with appropriate types and colors.

I think I've spent more time on researching and planning LED's for my pin than last time I bought a house!

Silly question, but how did you find it best/easiest to clean the bottom side of the inserts? Not something I considered, but I'm sure mine need it given the condition my underside is in . . . I really want my new LEDs to shine as best as they can.

What types of lamps are you using in backbox - no dome SMD, clear dome, frost dome?

Great pic, and my idea also to use a flex bulb there. I know I checked multiple times, but maybe I had a brain fart on the bulb type. I will check again when I get home tonight.

P.S. I envy how clean your underside is - very nice.

Well, was a brain fart after all. I don't know what I was seeing, but the free ride is definitely a #906. Thanks for the correction.

Okay, I am getting ready to order my LEDs and wanted to also order some custom lighting for various areas (kick-out saucer, sling tachs, back area, spot for mountain plastic, behind flippers, etc.) My only question is how do I wire these into the lighting system? Do I just find another light on the GI circuit and splice into its wires? Should I solder them or connect them in some other fashion?

Thanks! I am no slouch with a soldering iron, but I like the idea of the clips. Since I am ordering from Comet, I'll take a look to see what options they have.

Woohoo! Just placed my LED order at Comet. Can't wait to get everything in and liven up this pin! Thanks for all the great support and mod ideas. I purchased all LEDs for entire pin including backbox and coin door (just no LED for red lamp on top of box). Also, I got everything to add lighting to back of playfield, ball catch between flippers, spot for mountain/tunnel plastic in back right, below supercharger ramp sign, left and right sling tachs, drive 65 plastic, and red kick-out disk (I did buy a few accessories at Pinball Life to complete things - light sockets, flood assemblies, etc.)

All of this plus several extra bulbs for less than the cost of a kit from all of the providers I looked it. It was definitely work figuring out everything and customizing the lighting to my taste, but a big thanks goes to the members of this forum and to a pinhead friend who has helped me out tremendously.

Before/after pics surely to come was the transformation takes place. Also, once I get all of the lights in and verify everything, I plan on posting my lamp spreadsheet for those who may want to mod their Getaway in the future. For me, the hardest part was validating socket types and quantities of everything, and this would have been a big help.

Anyone have mirror blades in their Getaway? I've seen them in other pins, and they look fabulous to me, and really add a wow factor when playing in dark room. Wondering what experience would be like with our pin. Pics would be appreciated.

If you look through the forum there is an all red one early on (legs, side rails, apron, etc.) It looks very nice. Under the thread, do a search in the pinsider field for "the_fonz" and you will see his red accented Getaway.

Also, here is a highly customized one in all black (scroll to bottom of page): http://www.pinball-magazine.com/?attachment_id=2846

Every time a GEICO motorcycle commercial comes on TV, for some reason I want to go play a little Getaway pinball - A haw, haw, haw, haw!

Anyone used this before? Is it the right size?

http://www.amazon.com/Lamborghini-Murcielago-LP640-4-Police1-Scale/dp/B004THK5AU/ref=pd_sim_21_2

And what about this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DBINHBQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl

How would I power it to light it?

Where did you get your Lambo & Cruiser? What scale are they (or size)?

How much for a set?

Okay, so I finally got tired enough of looking at that big silver metal plate where the Donut Heaven mod goes. However, I really didn't want to spend the bucks right now on a top-of-the-line 3D printed version. Therefore, I put my Photoshop skills to work, and came up with a self-printed version that was to my taste.

So, here is what I did. I created an image in Photoshop based upon my best rendition of the Donut Heaven from the DMD with a few twists. Mine has a neon sign, a red metal roof, and the police cars are crown vic's. I then printed on my Epson 6 color inkjet photo printer using high quality glossy thick photo paper. From here I cut out with a paper cutter, ran a black Sharpie around the outside edges to hide the white color of the paper, pre-bent to conform to the metal piece, then applied double-faced Scotch tape around all for sides on the backside of the paper. Once carefully applied to the metal, I then poked holes where the screws go and mounted the plate back inside the pin.

I have posted both a pic of the finished product installed, along with a full-scale JPEG file of the original artwork so anyone can download and create their own if they would like.

Enjoy!

IMG_0065_(resized).JPG

DonutHeaven.jpg

I guess you don't actually have the digital artwork? I saw this one, but wasn't really interested in putting the time in to recreate it.

Good ideas, definitely my first crack at it but ran out of time (also just noticed my roof shape is off at the top - guess I used wrong guide line on the right). I played with silhouettes, but didn't come up with anything I liked in the short time I had. I will have to play with the perspective on the sign to see if I can make it look more vertical (probably some perspective and shadowing).

Regarding layers, a couple of dozen probably. I created the police cars in a separate file, and derived it from an actual photo of a crown vic. I had to make it look more like plastic/cartoon and then custom add on things like lights and such to cover the real ones. The sign is also a separate file and creating the neon effect was several layers with effects. Everything else is in a file with just a few layers: background, glass, open sign, door handle, building front, and roof.

Spent a little more time on it tonight, here is the updated version.

DonutHeavenV2.jpg

Probably more work than I am willing to put into it right now, but I am happy to share the Photoshop files with you if you would like to customize to your liking.

You need to try a free program called PAINT.NET. It is a great free alternative to Photoshop with layer editing, etc.

http://www.getpaint.net/index.html

Click Ads can be confusing on this page, just click the "paint.net 4.0.9" text link at the very top right of the page to get to the download links.

Here is what I used as my model from color DMD (not mine - I wish!)

DMD.jpg

Okay, I just finished complete LED upgrade (have not added all my extras yet, just the standard illumination), and I must say "wow!" I cannot believe how awesome the updated lighting makes the pin look. I am going to put together before/after shots, as well as a bulb guide for those of you wishing to upgrade to LED, but are too intimidated to put together your own kit (much more affordable this way).

However, I have one HUGE problem now. I did all of my flashers first, and every one of them tested perfectly. Then I did GI, back box, and finally inserts. When I was done I proceeded to test everything and all illumination works except now none of the flashers will work. I tested all the fuses, did a visual of the circuit boards and connections, but I cannot figure out what I did to kill the flashers. Any ideas here would be greatly appreciated. Very frustrating to get all of this work done with the pin looking great, but the flashers all stopped working even though they worked when I tested them after initial LED upgrade.

I've never had to do that before when testing them, and when I do try there is no change.

None of the flashers work at all in test mode or in game play.

Well, my flasher issue ended up being a simple one. With the help of a forum member, he instruction me to look at LED 5 on the main board. It was not lit which signifies a circuit break. I replaced F111 (even though I thought I had tested it as good) and LED 5 immediately LIT and so did flashers.

Well, I was actually testing fuses in-socket. But I assure you, I have learned my lesson given all the grief my error caused me. Thank you all for your advice and getting me back up and running. I cannot believe the difference LEDs make. It is like an entirely different pin now.

As I stated earlier, my plan is to do a write up and inventory of bulb types, sockets, etc. that I used to help out future LED conversions for others on this pin, along with before/after pics. Since I fully customized my LEDs (did not buy a kit), I put several hours into figuring everything out. To my surprise, I was only off one bulb where somehow I had logged it as a #555 when it was actually a #44. Fortunately, I had purchased a couple of extras of each type, so now I am 100% LED. My next steps are to install the mod lighting features that I purchased (tachs, back of pin, mountain spot, et. al.)

FYI, I kept getting check switch 67 errors whenever I went into test mode and finally realized that the metal piece was completely missing on the micro switch, so the machine never knew when a ball passed down the left wire ramp. Ordered a replacement and promptly received from PBL, then attempted to install last night. Given the position and that a resister was on the switch it was like performing surgery to get the old one off and the new one soldered into place.

I was all proud of myself when I had everything back together and turned on the machine to test, when now I had multiple switch errors and the new switch would not show closes not matter what I did. Well, after thinking to myself and closer inspection, I had accidentally soldered the resistor on backwards from what it was originally (a very fine dark gray line on one side of the barrel). I performed the entire process again of removing and re-soldering this tiny piece (I really needed at least 3 hands, but somehow managed to do it with 2). When it came time to turn the machine back on I was in fear that I had messed something up royally, but to my surprise the new switch worked and all errors were gone. Even so, I know that resistors are not directional, so I am a little confused why my repair did not work the first time.

Moral of the story is to take detailed pictures before you take something apart and put it back exactly the same. I was kind of lazy and figured I had this, but obviously I caused myself much more time and effort to get it right. I consider myself fortunate that I didn't damage something and cost myself more time and money to repair my mistake.

Found a good PS tutorial if you want to create something that looks like DMD display:

http://www.photoshopessentials.com/photo-effects/color-dots/

Thanks, and consider me educated. After Googling, I now understand how diodes differ from resisters, and that they are directional. Nobody told me I was going to have to use my brain so much when I bought a pinball machine.

Just finished my LED conversion with pics below. Please note the following:

1) Pics do not do the upgrade justice (harder to photograph than I expected). In real-life, original was dull and dingy looking while new LEDs are vibrant and clean.
2) I realized after the fact that the passenger side headlight bulb was not working in the backbox. I've since repaired, but too lazy to retake photos.

before_bb_(resized).JPG
after_bb_(resized).JPG
before_pf_(resized).JPG
after_pf_(resized).JPG
before_full_(resized).JPG
after_full_(resized).JPG

I still have many lighting mods to add to the playfield, but here are a few of my upgrades. The gear shift was taken from an idea earlier in this topic, the key mod is Mezel's, and the Donut Heaven is my own work (this pic is through the glass, so not very sharp).

mod_shift_(resized).JPG

mod_key_(resized).JPG

mod_dh_(resized).JPG

Attached is my LED bulb chart that I compiled to perform my conversion. A few things to note:
1) I used Comet as my supplier with a few things from Pinball Life, but you can use any supplier you like
2) You don't have to follow my color scheme at all. My main concern was providing a detail of the sockets and bulb types required to perform a full LED upgrade
3) I utilized clear and frosted bulb single SMD bulbs along with a few 4 SMD no lens bulbs.
4) Natural = natural/cool white & Warm = warm/incandescent white
5) I did not use either the start button or jet bulbs since I moded these
6) All the mods at bottom are completely optional, and you must purchase appropriate wiring and other accessories to mod yourself. Also, I am adding a light to the transparent red Kick-Out which requires the purchase/installation of a socket since it is not lit by default.
I hope this proves useful to others that come after me, and please don't hesitate to ask questions if you have any.
Finally, let me repeat - YOU DO NOT HAVE TO FOLLOW MY COLOR SCHEME. I don't want others who have gone before me argue one way or another why their colors are better and mine suck as this is not the intent of my post. Obviously, if you have a different color scheme you like then by all means present it as an alternative for a future modder to consider. Either way, the sockets and location of the bulbs remain the same for all of our pins, and documenting this was the most tasking part of the exercise for me.

Added over 8 years ago: BTW, you must click on the image to download the full PDF file (it is more than just the one page you see).

Added over 8 years ago: Forgot to mention one more thing. For the orage/amber inserts use warm white bulb for more amber color and use cool/natural bulbs to make them look more yellow. Yellow LEDs don't have the brightness of some of the others. The only yellow I used was an4 SMD no lens bulb in the stoplight.

One additional note on my list. After installing the 5 SMD flashers throughout, my personal preference would be for a little more "pop" in brightness. Therefore, I am going to replace the 10 Bayonets on the playfield with Comet 13 SMD #89 Super Flashers and the 3 supercharger & 5 backbox flashers with Comet 10 SMD 5630 Super Flashers. Again, this is personal preference as the 5 SMD ended up being just a little dim for my personal taste.

I changed my quantities as such (note there is one extra #89 since I may swap positions):
- #89 Green = 7 (all under green side plastics)
- #89 Red = 2 (one under supercharger ramp, and I am going to experiment with red for slings. If I go this way I will put white under ramp)
- #89 White = 2 (for slings. Again, I will try red and if I like better I will put one white under ramp)
- 5630 White = 5 (backbox)
- 5630 Red = 3 (supercharger)

Also you may prefer the 8 SMD #89 or #906 flat 8 SMD flashers in some of your applications. It all comes down to personal preference.

I'm thinking I will like the red, but we'll see. I just want a little more attack on the senses when the flashers go off.

BTW, cudos to Art at Comet Pinball. Great knowledge and exceptional customer service. Also highly patient with newbies like myself.

Got to spend some time finishing my final lighting mods today. Here is what I did - all ideas from within this topic, and all lights purchased from Comet with a few accessories from Pinball Life. I mainly used Comet's Matrix system, but did also have to do a little soldering for a few of the mods.

1. Ball catch lighting - Frosted white 19 LED strip
2. Left tach - 4 LED post light
3. Right tach - 4 LED post light
4. Drive 65 sign - 4 LED post light
5. Tunnel spot light - 4 SMD flat in spotlight
6. Kick out light - Red Flex (had to install socket)
7. Supercharger Ramp Light - UV 3 LED strip
8. Back of Cabinet Lighting - 2 x 4 SMD flats in spotlights

You will also notice an earlier mod including Red, Yellow, and Green BriteCaps EVO Pop Bumper Lighting from Pinball Life with matching pop bumper caps from MAD Amusements (only place I could find all 3 colors in same style).

It's been fun doing this and sharing with the community. Thanks for the great ideas from everyone, and I hope that my mods inspire others to do the same.

Now, I am just searching for a 1/36 scale red Lamborghini and Police car to fit the theme. Also, working up courage to attempt playfield paint repair where needed.

IMG_0080_(resized).JPG
IMG_0075_(resized).JPG
IMG_0077_(resized).JPG
IMG_0081_(resized).JPG
IMG_0076_(resized).JPG
IMG_0078_(resized).JPG
IMG_0079_(resized).JPG

I was reading through the posts, and saw some people lamenting there wasn't a shooter cover on our pin (just a black box). Funny, but I had never thought twice about it, but now that it is in my head I can't help but notice the large empty black spot. Therefore, I decided to do something about it. I've attached a copy of the actual print file (high resolution JPEG) if anyone wishes to print their own, along with a couple of pics of what it looks like on the pin.

As with my previously self-printed mods, this was done on a high resolution Epson 6-color inkjet printer with high-gloss, thick inkjet paper. I then cut out the image, ran a black Sharpie around the edges to mask the white edges, and finally applied double-faced Scotch tape around the bottom before applying to the shooter cover. I also switched places with my game cards since it looked a little odd have the two Lambos side-by-side.

ShooterCover.jpg
IMG_0089_(resized).JPG
IMG_0093_(resized).JPG

Okay, I am about done with my mods now. Besides, I am a little board since my DMD controller board went out, and I need to order a new one tomorrow. Anyway, the last thing I want to do is add a diecast police car and Lambo. I think I have what I want picked out, and for now want to do it on the cheap (e.g. $10 each or so). I really think Mezel's fully lighted large police car is awesome, but just not in my budget right now. Therefore, my plan was to just put either a 3 LED strip or a post LED (Matrix from Comet) inside the cab of each model and connect to GI to have the inside lit for now.

Any thoughts/ideas on what others have done in this area?

Thanks, I got the cards from a reference earlier in this thread, but here they are again fully-sized for print (they are not my artwork, but all the other apron stuff is . . . please feel free to take credit if you created them and see this post). Regarding flippers, the left one has been giving me fits, but I was finally able to get it to stop moving during gameplay, so I just left it where it ended up and matched the right to it. I may try to adjust at some point in near future.

GetawayFIRST.jpg
GetawayINSTRUCTIONCARD.jpg