Lol! I dont have a 3d printer, nor the cognitive capacity to construct such a device.

I can sell you the 3D parts. Disassembly and reconstruction with new parts is not difficult (I can author some instructions if anyone wants to do this).

Haven't really thought about it, but I would say that $50 would be a fair price including shipping (you would need to order the original shifter yourself).

I would include the following (about 20 hours of printing):
- 3D Printed Shift Rod (silver)
- 3D Printed Shift Rod Housing (Galaxy Black)
- 3D Printed Gear Shift Bell Housing (Galaxy Black)
- 3D Printed Gear Shift Bell Housing Washer (Galaxy Black) - will be pre-glued to Bell Housing
- 3D Printed Gear Shift Collar (Galaxy Black)
- 12" Comet Matrix Wire

Skills Required
- Uninstall shift mechanism (4 nuts on inside of pin)
- Disassemble shift mechanism (4 bolts/nuts)
- Cleaning of all parts
- Reassemble of shift mechanism with new replacement parts
- Utilization of original gear shifter hardware with replacement parts
- Soldering of 2 wire ends to the LED board

Can i just use this to light it from the coin insert?
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Oooh... u mean solder to the shifters led board.

Absolutely. Just will need to get a long extension (Comet sells a 36" matrix ext. for $99). Yes, you will need to do really light soldering of the 2 wires to the LED board in the shifter (it is fully removable). There is really a process to disassembling/reassembling the unit, but it can be done a couple of ways. You can either install the rod with the shifter already on it from the front outside of the faceplate, but this requires getting at a holding ring you must remove. Alternatively, I found it easier to assemble the shaft and its housing, install from the back, and then put the shift knob on.

If done the first way and you wanted to order the parts from me, I could actually buy the shift knob, do the soldering for you, and pre-assemble what I could. If done the second way, you would need to do the soldering.

Okay, my ignorance of electricity seems to be biting me. I've been working on my shifter lighting, testing everything with batteries (5.8V), and it worked perfectly. However, I cannot get the lights to work in the pin when connected to GI circuit. I put a meter to it and the DC was only showing up as 1.X volts. Then it hit me . . . is the 5V GI circuit AC? Switch the multi-meter to AC and was getting 5.X volts.

Can someone smarter than me confirm? If so, then I'm going to need to find a 5VDC source and hook into that (any suggestions?).

Now I'm not thinking this is going to work . . . please stand by why I figure out the electrical stuff.

I bought a hsii ramp assembly for $90 a few months back. Figured I'd find the pf at some point. Found the of this weekend. Missing a few switches and coils, but other I'm happy.

I'm into it pretty cheaply, will build a cabinet for it and bring her back to life

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You can use the 12 volts from the coin door board. You will also need to install a dropping resistor in series to drop the 12 volts to what you need for the shifter led.

Ahh, thanks. That would indeed work as a permanent solution. Rather than me jacking with reducing the power via homemade device, could I just use something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Dorhea-Converter-Voltage-Waterproof-Automotive/dp/B07SGJSLDL/ref=sr_1_19_sspa

I also found a 5VDC on the PDB that feeds the sound card. Since I have a PinSound, it has a 5VDC auxiliary output on it, and when I tested with that my shifter lighting works perfectly. Think I could do this as a short-term solution.

Now that's a project. Looking forward to following your progress.

Yep.

You can do this also but it would need a new connector to be made and a lot of wire.

This and a piece of heat shrink is all you need.ebay.com link: 1 4W 25 Watt 1 Tolerance Metal Film Resistor 20 Pieces USA SELLER

Buy 360 ohm.

Thanks for the info. For now I hooked it up to 5VDC on PinSound, but will definitely order parts and do what you recommend (much cleaner). I just wanted to see it work, and both the LEDs and my new custom parts work great. Getting late, so I’ll post pics and a video tomorrow.

John Wick PinSound Orchestration is now online and ready for download: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/191#post-5067619

More work than I expected (when isn't it), but here's the fruit of my efforts on the LED shifter.

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Nice job on the shifter, really fits into the theme. It would be cool if it lit up when it was time to shift. Should be pretty easy to do by tapping into the shift light and using a comet matrix light.

That's a cool idea. Would have to do some redesign to accommodate a larger socket and bulb vs. the flat circuit board. Can't wait to see pics of yours when your done!

I’ll have to add it to my growing list of projects, lol. Right now I’m swamped designing stuff for JJP POTC.

I like the 3D printed shaft, I’m sure it will hold up fine for home use as long as you don’t have any over aggressive players haha.

I am in the process of adding a color DMD to my Getaway. I want to make sure this issue is ok before I power up the machine. I had to connect the ground for the DMD to the same ground as the left speaker (Flipper Fidelity). Is it ok to have two grounds running to the same post? Please see image below. If there is a better solution, please let me know. Thanks for the help!

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That's fine to do. Most grounds are all tied together with a metal strap so they all act as 1 big grounding point.

Thanks for confirming.

A couple Getaway extras from Pintastic this year. Got the chance to meet Steve Richie, the designer of Getaway. He did a seminar at the show and mentioned the story behind Getaway was he was speeding in a Porsche in LA and got stopped by the police doing 162 MPH.

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Purchased the Donut Heaven mod from Mr Tantrum. Excellent quality of product and the experience was terrific!

I also installed Pinduino (plug n play option) from Eric at Lyonsden...pictures or vids don't do it justice. Eric added Mr Tantrum's version of software for me, which provided a terrific result.

I already had installed Pinsound with Mr Tantrum's custom soundtrack's...makes a huge difference!

The combination of these additions has significantly enhanced the game experience, which is already built on a great foundation...awesome game!

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Your game looks great!

Also, thanks for all the love.

You missed two really nice decals for these two spots

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Agreed. I was on the fence with the decals, and in hindsight should have just ordered them. I'm sure I'll look to get them if / when I purchase something else from Mr Tantrum .

The game I purchased has a playfield protector on it (came installed), hence why some areas appear a bit cloudy and not as detailed / clear. I will probably change / add some things when I remove and clean it in future. It does play very well with the pf protector (first time I've had one), and the added protection is a bonus.

Scarface or Pulp Fiction orchestration? Thoughts. Pulp Fiction has better music, Scarface better punch lines. First R Rated orchestration for the Getaway for sure.

Pulp all day. I can help w ideas too!

Prolly better to do a tarantino sound theme tho.

Thanks, I will probably do both. Just need to figure out how to get a good copy of the film in MP3 so I can copy parts of the vocals. Songs are easy to get off of Youtube.

Just installed a Comet Pinball glare eliminator on my DMD, and really like it. I've been using Pinball Life Bent Plastics on my pins, but finding them a little bothersome both during game play and every time I need to slide the glass out (somehow this seems to happen a lot).

Anyway, since I have a PIN2DMD I could not affix it to the actual DMD itself, and no way I was just sticking in on the outside of the speaker panel. A quick chat with Comet support, and they told me that their filters where non-directional and that I could apply it to the inside of the speaker panel. So, I removed the panel, removed the DMD, cleaned the inside (and out) of the DMD area on the speaker panel, applied the Glare Eliminator, put everything back together, turned the DMD brightness up a bit, and voila! No glare but without the big black bent plastic piece - I love it!

If you are on the fence, I highly encourage you to add one for your Getaway to your next Comet order.
https://www.cometpinball.com/DMD-GLARE-ELIMINATOR-p/dmdglare.htm

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Someone contacted me inquiring about the spare left side lower cabinet art that I have. Requested pictures are below. The installed art on my Getaway was purchased at the same time. I have kept it laying flat in the dark, so it is in perfect shape. I can ship in the original container provided by Planetary Pinball.

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https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/revised-rad-cals-for-many-more-wms-games

Trying to get radcals made for the Getaway! He will do a run if we get 15 people, we have 3 so far. If interested please post on this site so we can get these made. Most original decals are all faded and this title could really use it. Roger 504, let's get this Babee done!

Try to convince him to remove the "reflection" bright spot on the G and the Arrow above. It actually looks really dumb, like a the was a piece of paper covering the silk screen. Just my experience with printed decals for getaway...

Hi all,

It was brought to my attention that I'd been sitting on this for quite a while. I'm a bit of a perfectionist, and it has taken me around 36 versions of modifying the mountain to get the look (and fit) I was aiming for. Obviously, with a print this large, it takes lots of time and lots of materials to find out if changes worked out; it can be a bit of a drain on resource and time. I'll continue tweaking it along the way, but I think I'm at the point where I'm ready to make this available.

Here's the latest version of my 3D printed mountain mod. Price is $90 shipped.

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New HSII owner here. The coin door on my machine has three coin slots and most of the images I see only have two. Anyone know which one is the original?

Curious to know if I switch out the sound board with a Pinsound and then decide, in the future, I want the original sound back can I just reinstall the old board or is the original lost once you upload a new sound file? The Pinsound speakers say they only work with the Pinsound board. Should I stick with speakers that are not board specific.

Also, I need new apron decals.

Didn't finish my post. Should have said Need new apron decals. Anyone know where I can get one?

I've seen both 2 & 3 coin slot doors, so not sure if both are original or if the 3 was a replacement along the way for somebody.

Regarding the PinSound, if you ever want to get rid of it just remove and reinstall the original sound board and you will be up and running 100%

Regarding apron decals I make a version of them, PM me and I can give you more details tomorrow.

Usually the 2 coin slots are the USA versions, 3 coin slots are the exports and are now called re-imports but these were still built in the US. You can check your sticker inside the cabinet to see if the voltage is 220 for exports or 115/120 for USA

http://www.treasurecovepinball.com/Library/decals/getaway/getaway.htm

That's a nice looking mountain! If I didn't have one already I'd be looking to snag that. I need to get that clear plastic you have over the super charger...mine looks a bit silly with the mountain mod.

I wondered where you had been - awesome job on the mountain.

Prototype Super Charger.

That's awesome! Reminded me of my engineering thesis project where we made a rail gun to fire aluminum oxide pellets into concrete blocks.

Looks awesome, I'm interested. Do you know where I could get a clear plastic to go over the supercharger to replace the existing mountain plastic?

I'm betting he can make one for you since he has his. Actually, mjenison, you want to consider including the plastic as a kit or as an option, even if you need to raise the price a little.

If not, shoot me a PM and we can discuss. It's a rather large piece so will require some effort to do it by hand (how I make mine).

I cut my own lexan for a broken piece on my Lord of the Rings, and it looks terrible lol. Luckily it's almost completely hidden from view, and just serves to prevent a ball from getting somewhere it shouldn't.