Good catch...board on right in first picture is wrong. Red wires go to the banded side of the diode.

lamp (resized).jpg

The one on the left is wrong. Flip the wires and you should be good to go.

The board that you marked with the blue arrow needs to be unsoldered, then rotated 180 degrees then resoldered with the wires in there same position.

98d8358b3235ad5af33c0edfeb4f791db192837e (resized).jpg

Thanks, right now the pin is apart waiting for a flipper rebuild kit but I’ll try that out. A lot of the sockets have corrosion so I wouldn’t be surprised if this helps.

Thanks guys. Anyone able to snap a pic from your game?

Edit- I just reread your post a couple times. I think it makes sense. I’ll give it a shot.

Take a pic when your done, and we can look it over before you put it back together.

There's two pictures...first picture, wrong one is on right. Yellow wire is on banded side of diode which is wrong. 2nd picture, with boards flipped, wrong one is on the left. Just for clarification to the OP.

OP, on the board there are two connection soldered spots. Each has a trace on the board. One has a trace directly to the lamp socket. One has a trace directly to the banded side of the diode. The connection with the trace to the lamp socket gets the yellow wires. The connection to the trace to the diode gets the red wires. As Grumpy said, if the jumper wire is too short, rotate the board or cut/strip yourself another wire.

Once in a while the diverter ramp will not open fully, when this happens you can hear the coil buzzing trying to open it. What I found is when I move the ramp by hand, it binds the first bit of movement and then is fine the rest of the way. I have cleaned all the parts, replaced the coil sleeve. It seems to me that it could be the actuator ( piece that the ramp shaft slides into).

Is this a common problem?

disregard, someone else answered

Don't know if common, but the piece that the ramp shaft slides into on mine was bent a little so I had to reshape a little. Also, maybe some Teflon lubricant or similar might help if applied to the shaft and actuator?

Guys, thanks for all the help with the lamp wiring! I took the advice and re-soldered the wires and the issue is solved.

Pinside is so great. I dont know if i would have worked that out without pinside.

Playball!!

Tell everyone what your issues are and I'm sure someone will be able to help with it. As far as the ramp switches go in your earlier posts, I believe there is only 1 ramp switch to the switch matrix and 5 optos for the super charger. 3 optos go to the accelerator board, the other 2 go to an opto board. If you can narrow it down to which ones that are giving you trouble.

I have a re-import, these were all built in the USA and sent overseas, it's kind of cool thinking about where your pin was and who played it but the issues are usually the hacks on them are pretty bad. I found that when I converted it to the US standards (no hacks in the service box and transformer) 90% of my issues went away. Yes, I replaced all of the optos, rebuilt all of the flippers, put on a NOS coin door... the pin has been rock solid for 12 years+

Basic troubleshooting....have you checked each of those switches/optos in switch edge test diagnostic mode? Does each switch/opto and only each switch make/break properly when activated? Do the opto transmitters have power? Could be a matrix issue, so I would rule that out before going to the trouble of replacing opto's.

Looking to update the s/w but don't want to invest in buying a burner. Anybody know of source to purchase preloaded chips?

I don’t see Getaway on his site (he seems to have tons of other titles listed), but I suggest you PM meloyelo51. I just got my JP ROMS from him, and it was fast and easy.

I bought a pair this week from Astill for my getaway, L-2 and L-5.

Awesome thanks for the info.

I've been purchasing Astill's product for decades, you won't go wrong there !

Wierd issue!

Ball goes in the supercharger ring, goes around just fine, and after diverter wont open... falls back down the ramp.
I saw somewhere to take the glass off and get the sc to max and throw the ball up there. I did that and it actually worked! Everything back to normal for like 10 games, then the same issue came back except this time maxing the sc doesnt get the diverter working again.
Sux.
Any1 have similar issue or advice?
Clean/align optos, or ???
Thx!

Also... any idea what rom this is??
G2? I thought they were all L-something?

07BB915F-03D6-455C-9587-FABED461FB72 (resized).jpeg

C16B8C06-86E6-46A4-9E1D-DFC71F3E0722 (resized).jpeg

Could be a flaky opto. I had all sorts of issues with my SC when I first got it. Replaced all the options (I think 5) and life got much better. You can test them all in service mode. I don’t think they were designed to work reliably for 25+ years.

As for the firmware, I don’t recall ever coming across G2. I checked IPDB and not listed there. Was your machine an import? Maybe G is same as L2 for another country/language? (Pure speculation on my part)

3 things.
Would the optos affect if the diverter wont open?
Never worked on optos... just wipe them off and lineup positioning?
Can u test optos in the menu?

Yes, as the opto is what tells the machine that a ball has passed which triggers the positioning of the diverter.

For the 2 ramp entrance and SC loop opto pairs (see #37 & #38 on page 2-38) you will use T.3 Single Switches (this will be the one you want to test the opto pair on the entrance ramp which communicates to the gate to divert to loop, and the one on the SC loop which communicates to the gate to open so ball exits loop). According to the switch matrix (p 3-4), the entrance ramp opto is switch #85, and the loop made opto is switch #84

To test the 3 optos related to the magnets in the supercharger, that would be T.12 (p 1-16). You enter this test, then you can test various combinations of the magnets being enabled, but as the ball loops continuously, you will also see the opto state for each of the 3.

If you don't have a manual, you can d/l a searchable PDF version here: https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=getaway#1000

Sometimes wiping them is good, other times they are burned out. One opto in the pair should be clear (transmitter) and the other black (receiver). As they age/deteriorate the clear one turns black and does not perform as well.

If you do end up replacing them, the opto board set is the way to go if you want to make it easy on yourself when replacing them. You would just unsolder the two wires for the old one then remove it, put the new one in and solder the wires tot the pads. If you have stripped out or broken opto mounts, then you'll need to purchase the full opto assembly set. Also, I know it is money, but if you replace one set you might as well replace all 5, as one going bad is indicative that they others of the same age probably don't have much longer either.

Board Sets
Marco's | https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-14231-2
PBL | https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-led-and-pcb-board-set.html

Assembly Sets/Bases
PBL | https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-infared-led-opto-assembly-set.html
Marco's (white) | https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8506-1
Marco's (black) | https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8506

Wow!
Thx for the info!
Ill let u kno my findings!

You're welcome. BTW, you can easily hand test the ramp and loop optos using an opaque piece of paper (e.g. business card) or some other solid object. Just put pin in correct test mode then pass object back and forth between opto pairs.

One other thing I didn't mention, is that if your opto brackets are broken then it might be possible for them to shake out of alignment, so check that. Finally, make sure you have a good solder of the wire to the pad. Intermittent opto operation to me means a few things could be the cause:

1) Opto going bad
2) Opto pair out of alignment (vibration sometimes may cause them to be in alignment and other times out of alignment)
3) Wire is coming loose at opto (again, vibration may cause wire to make contact at times, and to not make contact at other times).
4) Wire is loose/not connected at other end or at point in chain. This is simple to test by looking at the other switches on the matrix that are in the same row and column (i.e. share wires). If other switches perform correctly then you can rule this out.

Get 3/4" foam weather stripping from Home Depot and just double up what was there from the factory. Had the same thing on my Creature, this fixed that completely and looks much better.

Looking at doing a Pinsound remix for my Getaway. Here are my choices: The Clash, Rush or Black Sabbath.

My preference is The Clash. Think “Police on my back” would be perfect for the video mode chase. If you have suggestions, PM me.

Rush please!
Fly by night in vid mode

What would be your selection for the main theme song from each group?

Red Barachetta !

Tom soy?

I haven't decided yet. Have to play around with each song to see which fits best. Most of these groups have some great instrumental elements, which I think would work well.

Whatever you choose, the main theme needs some kind if riff that you can use for prior to ball launch, then transitions well into the song (you can obviously cut the song to start where you want).

Replaced the motor in my beacon:

Big thank you to WeirPinball for a great price and fast shipping.

The Aluminum tape on the backboard is a running joke from BYOAC

Well done. Makes it really fun to play in a dark room.

I picked up the L-5 and L-2 roms with the LED patch, they got rid of the ghosting on my inserts, but I got an odd error when I booted it up after swapping the roms. It said gear shift error, but if I cancel out of the service menu the game plays fine. I swapped back in the old rom to see if it was something with the patched one, but I got the same error. What would cause this error? How should I go about diagnosing it?

Also the guy I bought the machine off sent me a replacement rear ramp flap since the game was missing one. Is it just riveted in? What's the easiest method to install it? Will I have to take out the supercharger?

I would play a game in which you shift both up and down to switch gears. If the error still shows in service mode, then go to switch test and verify up and down switch register correctly. I've been told that if a switch is not used within so many plays that a switch error will show. When swapping ROMs, not sure what is retained in memory or not that might impact this.

Regarding the back ramp, yes it is just riveted it and I do believe you will have to disassemble much of the SC in order to get the part out so that you can install the flap (at least I did).

Thanks, I ran the diagnostic test on the shifter and it registered up and down correctly. In game both up and down work too, verified them during launch and video mode. Swapping the ROM reset the settings to factory. The machine is an Italian re-import which must have lived by the sea based on the corrosion on the lamp sockets lol.

I guess I'll wait on putting in the flap for now if it requires a major tear down. The mylar is showing some major wear along its edges so I'm contemplating removing it completely. The game has a Diamondplate playfield, which to my understanding means the game has a factory clear coat. Since I'm not routing it, I can probably get away without the mylar correct?

Most definitely. However, if you've never removed mylar before (I have not) you better read everything you can to avoid messing up the playfield finish. I know there are both hot and cold removal processes, but can't speak to what is best or how to do it.

I removed the Mylar from my diamond plate pf easily with the freeze method.

I have a cop car mod and was wondering if i can hook it up to the mars flasher?

Sometimes removing mylar goes well and other times not so well, every instance is different on the same machines. I personally have no issues with leaving the factory mylar in place, it does help save the pf, especially in that pop bumper area.

I restored the worn out hole area on my Getaway, after the paint and clear coat I waxed the pf and applied mylar, the wax coating supposedly makes removing the mylar easier but I put a cliffy over it and now it doesn't matter. lol

Can u hook up an led mod to the mars lamp using alligator clips?

I haven't taken the time to look up or test voltages, but if the lamp and police car are the same, I don't see why not. Probably just need to clip onto the motor leads. Others have done additional police lights on top of the Getaway before, and they had to tap into the same circuit.

Short answer is no. Check out posts 7244 & 7249 in this thread for details on what I did.