Getaway: High Speed II, The
Williams, 1992Glad you got it figured out. Definitely pay attention to fuse ratings and type. Most all will be slow blow / time delayed fuses, so make sure you get that type as often the hardware store fuses will be instant blow for automotive applications. AGC fuses will be fast blow...you want MDL. And never over fuse amperage ratings.
Quoted from Charger500:I suck at playing pinball, but damn I still enjoy it.
Sounds like you need a second game. 
Quoted from red-line:Got my fuse replaced and I'm still having issues. I tested my power driver board and I'm getting correct voltage at the 12v and 5v.
Now when I turn it on I get lights and coil power (it will plunge the ball, it does a ball search), but my flippers don't work. The dmd is showing a bunch of random dots, and I have no sound (except for the extreme screeching the first couple times I turned it on - only when I had the backboard open and the dmd resting on the playfield).
Funny, I just picked up a LOTR, but all I can think about is fixing my getaway, haha
When you say plunge a ball, it appears that it's actually starting a game? Pops work, etc?
Quoted from robertmee:When you say plunge a ball, it appears that it's actually starting a game? Pops work, etc?
Meant to delete that! Yeah everything worked except flipper, sound, dmd.
I reseated the cables that run between the fliptronics board, the audio, and the dmd board, and it's working again!
If anyone is in need of plastics for Getway.. I'm selling a CPR set at a heavy discount - with all the included extras
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/74761
I also have just the topper/display set available
Quoted from delt31:So what's the best decal replacement for this game? Mine is very nice a few could use them though. I notice eBay says a set but anyone with experience chime in?
Depends on what you are looking for and your budget. I have the files and I also have a printer that will make them using breathable vinyl with a gloss coating. PM me if you want more detail and contact info.
If you budget is on the higher side, then some swear by the next gen graphics (or whatever they call them), but they are expensive.
I resolved my ramp constantly going up/down issue when the lock is lit on random occassions. Turns out it was a software issue. My machine was on ROM L-1, and I updated to L-5 which completely resolved the issue. Posting this for future reference in case anyone goes searching for this issue.
Quoted from okgrak:I resolved my ramp constantly going up/down issue when the lock is lit on random occassions. Turns out it was a software issue. My machine was on ROM L-1, and I updated to L-5 which completely resolved the issue. Posting this for future reference in case anyone goes searching for this issue.
Good news, thanks for posting the fix
Quoted from biglaw:Got a few mods installed.
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Impressive - I love the light show.
Quoted from biglaw:Got a few mods installed.
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Where did we find the helicopter. I am digging that.
Quoted from Jon9508:Where did we find the helicopter. I am digging that.
Had to paint and make it not sure how long propeller motor will last trying a new one on it. But thanks. Corgi 1/72 die-cast. Hard to find now. British Apache CS90469
Have my game torn down....installing a PF protector in preparation of putting game on location at a local club. I have a new plastic set, lots of new mods, new coil sleeves, flipper kits etc. Already been through and bullet proofed the boards.
I usually throw everything in the dishwasher to get the carbon off everything before individually polishing metal components. Any reason not to throw the supercharger assembly, magnets and optos and all into the dishwasher? Of course no heated dry. For anything electrical I'll usually flush with alcohol to displace any moisture then dry with a hair dryer. I've done light boards, wiring harnesses, etc with no ill effects but not sure about the hunk of iron that's the magnets. Don't want them rusting inside out.
Quoted from robertmee:Have my game torn down....installing a PF protector in preparation of putting game on location at a local club. I have a new plastic set, lots of new mods, new coil sleeves, flipper kits etc. Already been through and bullet proofed the boards.
I usually throw everything in the dishwasher to get the carbon off everything before individually polishing metal components. Any reason not to throw the supercharger assembly, magnets and optos and all into the dishwasher? Of course no heated dry. For anything electrical I'll usually flush with alcohol to displace any moisture then dry with a hair dryer. I've done light boards, wiring harnesses, etc with no ill effects but not sure about the hunk of iron that's the magnets. Don't want them rusting inside out.
They aren't magnets - they are coils.
Quoted from flynnibus:They aren't magnets - they are coils.
A coil is a magnet....with the wrap I couldn't tell if it's an iron or copper core.
I'm not sure if the dishwasher detergent will dull the finish of the super charger. If you were going to polish it anyway then no matter.
Quoted from GRUMPY:I'm not sure if the dishwasher detergent will dull the finish of the super charger. If you were going to polish it anyway then no matter.
Yeah I polish or regain all the metal ramps and guides....dishwasher just gets all the carbon out of the nooks and crannies. And using a PF protector it's important to get as much of that carbon removed prior to laying otherwise the dust will seep under the protector clouding it.
Quoted from robertmee:A coil is a magnet....with the wrap I couldn't tell if it's an iron or copper core.
These aren't magnets - they are simply coils being used as electro magnets. In this case, a winding of wires around a plastic bobbin - just like flipper coil. There is no 'core' - the ball is accelerated by passing through the magnetic field... just like a flipper plunger is. They are effectively super sized single wound flipper coils.
You use a core to be the material actually being magnetized... here they just need a magnetic field so no cores. There is no contact with the ball or cores.
Playfield magnets are the same.. they just put a metal slug in the middle to be the magnetized point of contact with the ball to hold it.
Washing them would be the same as washing a flipper coil.. if you're into that.
Quoted from flynnibus:These aren't magnets - they are simply coils being used as electro magnets. In this case, a winding of wires around a plastic bobbin - just like flipper coil. There is no 'core' - the ball is accelerated by passing through the magnetic field... just like a flipper plunger is. They are effectively super sized single wound flipper coils.
You use a core to be the material actually being magnetized... here they just need a magnetic field so no cores. There is no contact with the ball or cores.
Playfield magnets are the same.. they just put a metal slug in the middle to be the magnetized point of contact with the ball to hold it.
Washing them would be the same as washing a flipper coil.. if you're into that.
Electro magnets are magnets. They're not permanent magnets, rare earth magnets, but magnets none the less. But you're correct....flipper coils have no metallic core....just a coil wound around the bobbin. We're getting into semantics for no reason. I wasn't sure what the inside construction was, but if you say it's a plastic core similar to flippers then should be okay to put the whole assembly into the wash. Thanks!
Hi all. Organising another custom speaker panel for myself as I'm back in the club again! If anyone wants one shoot me a pm. They will need to be ordered and prepaid in the next 2 days.
They are a good match for the alt translites around. You can make a custom backboard to suit or light the whole panel as well.
So I completely stripped my new to me Getaway down to a bare PF (top side), rebuilt the flippers with new bushings, end stops, sleeves...replaced all the remainder coil sleeves. I installed one of the lexan playfield protectors as this game is going on location at a local club. Installed a bunch of Tantrum's mods. Rebuilt all the molex headers and repinned GI and solenoid connectors. Rebuilt the 5V power supply to get rid of the 12V daughter board that was installed. Have a few lighting mods yet to install (Lambo and flashers), but had a couple of questions:
Ball Shooter lane adjustment: The metal guide has a slotted hole and a fixed hole. It's like it was designed to be adjusted, but the fixed hole prevents it. In any case, I'm finding that the ball is hitting the upper Star Post 70% of the time...Like the ball guide on the shooter lane is aimed too high. But with the fixed hole, there really is no adjustment. The game is pitched 7 degrees and is level side to side. Any suggestions on adjustments. The Shooter Coil is perfectly centered to the ball in the shooter lane, FYI.
Mile marker bracket. I have the Mile Marker decal from Tantrum, but looking at pictures, I don't have a mile marker bracket. Was this something additional that was made just for this decal?
As mentioned, flippers are rebuilt, solenoid molex connectors and headers rebuilt, but for some reason, the flippers just don't have the punch I would expect. I can hit the upper ramp lock from the right flipper, but it doesn't zip up the ramp...has to be a pretty dead on shot. The Upper right flipper can hit the ramp also, but again, has to be a solid shot...Lastly, I would expect to be able to backhand the supercharger from the left flipper, but this is a very difficult shot. Forget it if the ball is rolling. On a stopped trap, I can just barely get it up there. Not every having owned a Getaway, is this normal, or is something amiss?
I just sold my game so I can't look anymore.. I know what you mean about the shooter lane bracket having two holes.. but AFAIK you just use the slotted hole.
See if the ball is rattling around - that kills energy. The other ball guides may not be lined up optimally. It's not uncommon for shots to fail to make the back up ramp if not clean. Balls should go up there nice and clean from the left orbit.. and a shot that doesn't bounce in the inner orbit should make it steady (not like racing up there). The inner orbit has a significant curve so balls can make the orbit, but loose speed rattling.
Left hand backhand to supercharger isn't a given on the game.. depends on the example.. but it is common.
If your flippers lack punch - step 1 is check the flipper bushings for slop - most people skip those when rebuilding and if its been awhile, you'll get tons of lateral movement from that killing power. Also, check the manual for the right coils.. there are two different flipper coils in use in this game (red and blue).
This is a fliptronic game as well.. so it's possible issues on that board can be killing power as it supplies the flipper voltages.
Quoted from flynnibus:I just sold my game so I can't look anymore.. I know what you mean about the shooter lane bracket having two holes.. but AFAIK you just use the slotted hole.
See if the ball is rattling around - that kills energy. The other ball guides may not be lined up optimally. It's not uncommon for shots to fail to make the back up ramp if not clean. Balls should go up there nice and clean from the left orbit.. and a shot that doesn't bounce in the inner orbit should make it steady (not like racing up there). The inner orbit has a significant curve so balls can make the orbit, but loose speed rattling.
Left hand backhand to supercharger isn't a given on the game.. depends on the example.. but it is common.
If your flippers lack punch - step 1 is check the flipper bushings for slop - most people skip those when rebuilding and if its been awhile, you'll get tons of lateral movement from that killing power. Also, check the manual for the right coils.. there are two different flipper coils in use in this game (red and blue).
This is a fliptronic game as well.. so it's possible issues on that board can be killing power as it supplies the flipper voltages.
Thanks for the suggestions...my shooter lane had two screws installed...wonder if that was a previous owner install? I'll try just the slotted screw and aim the guide lower. Just concerned without the 2nd screw it vibrating and moving over time.
On the Fliptronics board I'll try reseating the connectors and/or reflowing the headers. Beyond that, is there any component known to fail or a standard rebuild kit to install?
Quoted from robertmee:Mile marker bracket. I have the Mile Marker decal from Tantrum, but looking at pictures, I don't have a mile marker bracket. Was this something additional that was made just for this decal?
In any case, I'm finding that the ball is hitting the upper Star Post 70% of the time...Like the ball guide on the shooter lane is aimed too high. But with the fixed hole, there really is no adjustment.
As mentioned, flippers are rebuilt, solenoid molex connectors and headers rebuilt, but for some reason, the flippers just don't have the punch I would expect. I can hit the upper ramp lock from the right flipper, but it doesn't zip up the ramp...has to be a pretty dead on shot. The Upper right flipper can hit the ramp also, but again, has to be a solid shot...Lastly, I would expect to be able to backhand the supercharger from the left flipper, but this is a very difficult shot. Forget it if the ball is rolling. On a stopped trap, I can just barely get it up there. Not every having owned a Getaway, is this normal, or is something amiss?
No, the bracket was there, it's a ball stop.
I had to shift my shooter so it's angled to the right, not hitting the ball in the center, it took a few tries to get to a spot where it wasn't hitting the star post but now it makes it around 100%. Hopefully the pic shows what I'm talking about...
I can back hand the ball up the SC sometimes but not always, in my case, it's more of an issue of how well the ball is hit. I don't have any of the other issues you mentioned. What coils did you use?
Cliffy shooter (resized).jpg
Thanks for the pic....you know, before I tore the game down, my shooter was like that, but I figured that was incorrect. Putting everything back together, I centered it...guess I created a problem.
Flipper coils are the standard blue coils.
Here are some photos of some recent decals I ordered from Mr_Tantrum for my Getaway. I highly recommend his stuff and they are all very high quality! Noticed the MPH decal is a little off 
Includes:
- Getaway flipper decals
- Donut Heaven decal
- "Do Not Enter" decal
- "Mile 1" decal
- Gauge target decals
- Mountain decal
stick1 (resized).jpgstick2 (resized).jpgStick 4 (resized).jpgstick 3 (resized).jpgQuoted from robertmee:Thanks for the pic....you know, before I tore the game down, my shooter was like that, but I figured that was incorrect. Putting everything back together, I centered it...guess I created a problem.
Flipper coils are the standard blue coils.
Been discussed a few times here in the forum; off-center is the correct position.
I am not a very good player and my normal games on Getaway are very lackluster at best. The other day I flipped it on with some friends over and proceeded to blow the game up with a new GC score and loop champ score. Previous to this my best was maybe 70 million or something.
IMG_0430 (resized).JPG
fantastically fun game but everyone in this thread already knows this.
I hit I think a 70 or 75 million super jackpot and maybe a 50 million one as well. It was a serious rush.
Quoted from VolunteerPin:I am not a very good player and my normal games on Getaway are very lackluster at best. The other day I flipped it on with some friends over and proceeded to blow the game up with a new GC score and loop champ score. Previous to this my best was maybe 70 million or something.
[quoted image]
fantastically fun game but everyone in this thread already knows this.
I hit I think a 70 or 75 million super jackpot and maybe a 50 million one as well. It was a serious rush.
Great job! Now you have even a higher bar to keep you playing! For me, it's all about getting to red light mania (more than once if possible) then taking advantage of the jackpot & super jackpot bonuses. The other big contributor to high scores is full speed completed video mode. Get that 2-3 times in a game and you get some serious free points.
Where does this plastic from the CPR set go? I didn't have one on my game to replace during teardown.
Also, any idea who sells the mile marker ball guide? My game is missing, and the only ones I can find are the right rear one by the supercharger, and the hairpin turn one. Incidentally, both of those are also missing from my game.
getaway (resized).jpgQuoted from robertmee:Where does this plastic from the CPR set go? I didn't have one on my game to replace during teardown.
Also, any idea who sells the mile marker ball guide? My game is missing, and the only ones I can find are the right rear one by the supercharger, and the hairpin turn one. Incidentally, both of those are also missing from my game.
[quoted image]
That’s a cover/reenforcement for the bottom of the supercharger sign.
Yep, having replaced a broken one myself in the past I was so excited when I saw that piece...I knew exactly what it was lol.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:That’s a cover/reenforcement for the bottom of the supercharger sign.
Since I'm using your bracket, do I still use it?
Quoted from robertmee:Where does this plastic from the CPR set go? I didn't have one on my game to replace during teardown.
Also, any idea who sells the mile marker ball guide? My game is missing, and the only ones I can find are the right rear one by the supercharger, and the hairpin turn one. Incidentally, both of those are also missing from my game.
[quoted image]
I can't locate that ball guard, but here is a great alternative created by TheOnlyest | https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/100#post-3586371
If you have ability to make the original metal one, let me know and I'll measure mine and provide dimensions.
Quoted from robertmee:Since I'm using your bracket, do I still use it?
No need for it IMO unless you just absolutely want it.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:I don't recommend it, air balls can, and will get jammed into the stacked plastics right there, hence the after-add by Williams.
1- 6-32x1-1/2" post screw
1- 1-1/16" Narrow post in the color of your choice
1- 3/16" ID rubber in the color of your choice
I'll trade you those bits for a shooter decal??
Okay so these are the parts to change the bracket to a post. For some reason I was thinking the existing hole in the pf was a through hole, not screw...not at game so will check later.
Quoted from robertmee:Okay so these are the parts to change the bracket to a post. For some reason I was thinking the existing hole in the pf was a through hole, not screw...not at game so will check later.
FYI, we actually did the trade and I had the post installed for quite some time until I created the mile marker decal. Post looked great and functioned well.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:FYI, we actually did the trade and I had the post installed for quite some time until I created the mile marker decal. Post looked great and functioned well.
Any chance you saved the pieces and want to sell 'em?
On the up/down ramp, is there supposed to be a rubber grommet that rides in the rail slot for the actuator arm? I've looked at several pics, and the video on youtube about fixing the up/down ramp, and none have this piece. My game has a rubber grommet, but it keeps falling out of the slot and jamming the ramp.
Quoted from robertmee:On the up/down ramp, is there supposed to be a rubber grommet that rides in the rail slot for the actuator arm? I've looked at several pics, and the video on youtube about fixing the up/down ramp, and none have this piece. My game has a rubber grommet, but it keeps falling out of the slot and jamming the ramp.
Mine doesn't have one that I can see. I'd leave it out and see how it performs.
Quoted from robertmee:On the up/down ramp, is there supposed to be a rubber grommet that rides in the rail slot for the actuator arm? I've looked at several pics, and the video on youtube about fixing the up/down ramp, and none have this piece. My game has a rubber grommet, but it keeps falling out of the slot and jamming the ramp.
I have never seen that piece, and definitely don't have it on my pin.
Quoted from robertmee:Hard to take a picture, but here it is from the backside
[quoted image]
100% confirmed I do not have that on mine.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Been discussed a few times here in the forum; off-center is the correct position.
Hmm... Interesting. I would like to add a comment that on mine, I had it off center and it didn't work correctly. I had to use some washers to raise it and also center it on the ball. Now the concave part of the shooter tip lines up perfectly center on the ball and it works 100% of the time.
Another note, that I've posted in the past was that on software L-2, there's a bug where you can get 2 balls pushed out into the shooter lane at the same time at the start of mutiball. I've posted steps to reproduce this in the past, but I don't think anyone has ever tried to confirm for me. Anyway... when this happens it usually causes the metal at the exit of the trough to bend outward and then causes additional problems. Not sure how to stop that though.
EDIT: Link to post about replicating the bug: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/43#post-3099181
If anyone can test this, I would appreciate it.
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