That looks great. I have the wall plug, can I pick up the other items at the hardware store? How do you convert the wall plug to be able to plug into the splitter?

This is how it looks inside my machine...I use a 3Amp 5V power supply for my Neopixel stripes....
Right now I control 11 stripes with 139 LEDs intotal individually with the Arduino....

The second picture shows my first completed donut heaven....19 LEDs inside under the letters....

IMG_20180917_111556112_HDR (resized).jpg

IMG_20180917_111935415_HDR (resized).jpg

The orange is still the muted orange.. vs the fluorescent

I'd be happy with just an orange, sucks they can't change it on the fly with the new process.

I spoke with Kevin about it at length, and basically he didn't believe it to be in significant error based on their prior feedback. He did say he could alter the colors some yet and make it brighter. I took photos of the plastics vs my originals. The camera dulls it a bit but shows the plastics vs the PF colors. He's not editing the color now, but I took from the conversation that if they felt it was necessary, it's do-able.

He is currently editing the cut template to increase the hole size where the snap-in standoffs go and putting in the plastic that was missing in the original set (piece under the supercharger in back corner). He expects to have a new set for me within a week.

IMG_4918 (resized).JPG

So I got a multimeter and it doesn't appear that either of the 12v connectors have a current. Any ideas what could cause that?

974113692 (resized).png

MVIMG_20180917_162740 (resized).jpg

Anyone have any good concise multimeter instructions? I'm totally lost. I didn't get a reading on either of the 12v connectors inside the pin. However, I also didn't get a reading on the 12v connector that powers the siren on top, and I know that works.

Well they won't have current unless under load. You want to test voltage.

You want to set your multi-meter on DC voltage, put the black lead on the ground braid in the cabinet, and the red lead into the connector. (technically you can test using the black lead in the connector too for ground.. but I digress)

If these are printed instead of silk screened they woun't be able to get the fluorescent orange because printers don't print fluorescent ink.

I know this... but they can still get a brighter orange than what they are currently printing.

Right, that was all I was looking for, just orange. I figured the fluorescent wasn't going to happen. Love the work they do to recreate this stuff. Just wish the orange was orange and not the beige it is now.

Yeah, that's what I did, I just don't know the right terminology. I set the multimeter to 20v and tested w the black lead in the connector. It would jump to .01 on the meter for a sec, then go back down to 0. I assumed that amount was negligible. But I got the same reading on the 12v connector that controls the siren, which obviously works since my siren works.

Random question but we have that turn key mod for the start button and my son has a hard time turning it. Is there anyway to start a game without turning the key? Maybe double pressing the flippers or something? If not no biggie just curious

I have a similar issue, but has gotten better after two things:

1) Screw that back nut on as tight as possible w/o breaking it. For the final tightening, I position the key about 1/4 turn from correct, hold the nut from the back, insert the key, then turn it with the entire lock turning to correct position (nice and tight)
2) I put some silicone oil/spray on the key insert and turn several times to lube the internal mech really well.

BTW, do all of this with the game off. Next step is to teach your son (like I did) to insert the key all the way and to not force it if it does not turn easily (just wiggle key a little until you can.

Thanks! I actually just told him about the key trick and not to force it but at age 3 he's like F this. Let me play this damn game! I don't blame him. I'll look into doing #1. The mod is one of the coolest mods in pinball. Love it.

I actually took my key mod off the game. Took it to Allentown for the hotel party and didn't need someone snapping the key off. Haven't put it back in yet.

The last days I was busy redesigning my Donut Heaven Mod, to make it more unique and more distinguishable from the "other existing Mods"....

So here is a first sneakpeak of the new design....
- bigger windows
- round windows
- a gable
- diagonal inserted letters on the roof to make them better readable from the players point of view!

Right now I'm in the (slow) process of printing all the parts ... once this is done I will release the files to everyone who is kindly asking for them
I will release them under the same condition as Mr-Tantrum is giving away his artwork....

@Mt_Tantrum Thanks for your support during the design-process of this!!!

In a few weeks I might be offering complete kits with all parts, with or without Arduino and Led Strip. For anybody who can't print this by himself.

PM me if you're interested in the files or a kit!

2018-09-19 08_48_57-3D design Donut Heaven - Final 7 _ Tinkercad (resized).png

2018-09-19 10_40_09-3D design Donut Heaven - Final 8 _ Tinkercad (resized).png

2018-09-19 10_40_23-3D design Donut Heaven - Final 8 _ Tinkercad (resized).png

2018-09-19 10_40_45-3D design Donut Heaven - Final 8 _ Tinkercad (resized).png

IMG_20180919_202916151_HDR (resized).jpg

IMG_20180919_210051579_HDR (resized).jpg

That is looking sweeter than a jelly donut!

I like that new design.

So Donut Heaven... When I got my machine it was already installed. I’m not sure that I like it. It blocks the locked balls so you can’t see them and I think I’d prefer to have it back to stock. Has anyone here regretted installing this mod? I like the mountains and the tunnel. I also have PinSound and ColorDMD installed and I upgraded the lighting to incandescent bulbs. No disrespect to the mod makers intended. All mods aren’t for all people.

I like it, but I admit I kinda saw it different in my head. Somehow I thought you'd see the balls in the windows... although they clearly lock UNDER the building.

You don't really see them stock either with that metal plate there IIRC.

You have a few options:

1) OlliG is working on a new customer DH with more character (IMO), and there is still more to come on his design
2) A sticker for the metal plate like my custom Krispy Kreme theme (there is also a Dunkin theme one out there)
3) Revert back to the metal plate
4) Fashion yourself a clear plastic version of the metal plate

First almost complete print....

There is still a little issue with the roof sticking to the walls....

But the design is almost done...

IMG_20180921_223555143_HDR (resized).jpg

IMG_20180921_223615633_HDR (resized).jpg

Look what showed up in this week’s Better Caul Saul.

A88D117F-4170-42F9-92BD-2F9FDC5D5DDC.jpeg

I saw that, but was completely insulted by the fact that they dubbed over the game play audio with EM pinball sounds!

Annoying and almost always the case when a machine is on screen being played.
It seems that the foley guys only have access to old school pinball sounds.
Probably nobody notices but us pin enthusiasts.

My son's idea to print the donut heaven in Orange.... But now... As it is installed...I like it

IMG_20180922_095726379_HDR (resized).jpg

IMG_20180922_095823619_HDR (resized).jpg

IMG_20180922_095843038 (resized).jpg

So, OlliG has been gracious enough to share his new Donut Heaven model files with me, and has worked closely with me giving me ideas and support. I really like his model, but I wanted to add a few personal touches to it which he graciously allowed. So, I have my first full model printed, assembled, and installed, and while I need to do a bit of sizing work to make it fit correctly, I still really like how it came out. My lighting is basic using a single red SMD strip, but OllieG has all kinds of lighting flare he can add with his Arduino. My idea for the donuts on the side walls was to be tan, but I don't have any tan/brown filament, so I ended up making them translucent orange - not sure if I like that or not. Also, for now I had to loosen the two screws a little bit to allow for the model to rotate backwards and lower its high point in order to put the glass back on (last photo is with glass installed). Finally, I might change the overall color scheme on my next iteration to have a red roof and mostly black accent pieces (maybe keep the red window ledges).

Bench photos of dry-fit model before installation:
DH1-1.jpgDH1-2.jpgDH1-3.jpgDH1-4.jpg

Photos after installation (glass off in all pics except the last one):
DH2-1.jpgDH2-2.jpgDH2-3.jpgDH2-4.jpg

Are there any obvious reasons why my 12v power supplies under the playfield wouldn't have power? I traced the wires behind the back glass, checked the connection there, replaced the fuse. I can't see any damage on the wires. Now I'm just scratching my head!

Man. These donut heaven models makes me want to buy a 3d printer. They both look awsome.

Not sure how I missed that!!! nice spot!

I'll leave this here...

During the long 3D printings for the donut heaven mod I had some time doing another mod
... this time a Speaker Panel Mod.

For this I removed the wooden speakerpanel and replaced it with a clear plexiglass panel, that I ordered from a Laser-Cutting Service...
The Plexiglass is a little less high than the wood panel...so underneath the plexiglass I installed a Neopixel-Stripe with 41 LED's ....connected it to my Arduino and now it is playing some random light-animations...

....the worst part was removing the sticky double sided glue from the front panel....

IMG_20180926_183847992 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180926_183851291_BURST002 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180926_183851291_BURST006 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180926_195650861_BURST005 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180926_202741618_HDR (resized).jpg

Love it! Very cool DIY.

Agreed! Very nice job with the speaker panel mod.

So here is my finalized custom 3D printed Donut Heaven. Thanks again to OlliG for his great original 3D design, and his openness to share his source with my so that I could create my own custom version.

For the lighting, I used a red Comet 20 LED Matrix strip cut to length (non-frosted) to light the sign, a white 20 LED Matrix strip cup to length (non-frosted) to light the interior, and a white Matrix 12V 8 SMD flasher to light the side wall donut. I tied the 2 strips together with a splitter, ran cable under playfield hole directly below the DH, and tied into a GI bulb. For the donut light, I ran the cabling through the same hole and tied it into the flasher (OlliG's idea) directly below the DH area.

Exposure was hard to get right with my camera phone, but in real life the red looks perfect while the interior light also looks great showing both through the windows and actually emphasizing the brick texture I have on the walls of the building. The orange flash is awesome, and again the camera doesn't do it justice.

Before installation
model 2.jpgmodel1.jpg

Exposure set to highlight the nice red of the sign
IMG_1532.JPG

Close up
IMG_1533.JPG

Far away
IMG_1534.JPG

Donut flasher

That looks super.

Thanks, except somehow in the process of installing this and a couple of new flasher bulbs, I knocked out some of my GI. I've tested and switch fuses (106 through 110), and they are not the issue. Even if I unplug my new DH, I still have the issue. Tired of working on it, so a job for tomorrow.

I thought I noticed in post #8479, your sling tach light mod, bottom pop and few others were out... maybe it was in attract mode but I don't remember if pops are always on in the mode.

How does the molex connecter look on j120? I thought you bought a Rottendog driver board so it's doubtful to be a pin. I don't have access to my manual and schematics at the moment but you could look to see what's on the same string as the bottom pop.

It is a RD - nice memory. Thanks for the advice, and I will start there. Let me tell you what is a little odd.i don’t remember the numbers right now, but last night I was trying to isolate which circuit each fuse was on. The three vertical grouped ones to the left seemed to be backbox, at least two of them were. On the other two stacked on the right, I put one in and turned the pin on and the bottom pop lit. Tried the same process with just the top one in and the bottom did not light. Put them both in and the bottom did not light. Pulled the top out again, left the bottom in and the bottom pop lit. However, no matter what combination I never got all pops to light at the same time and some of the GI never lit.

I need to look very closely at the GI circuits. I moved some wires around while I had the play field up to get to various things. Wonder if I accidentally pulled something loose or crossed a wire or something. Worst thing is that I didn’t notice at what exact time the problem started occurring, so I don’t have a good starting point or a specific area to focus on.

Anyone in the market for a Getaway in the New York area? I don’t know this guy, but sounds like a solid machine at a good price: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/69440

You are the man! Not J20, but J21 (you were close enough to have me see the issue). When I first got the pin, the J21 molex was burnt to a crisp on the right side. I’ve never replaced it, but just broke off the burnt part (2 rightmost connectors), and fashioned differen connectors for these two wires. Anyway, somehow one of those wires was hanging by a thread. I made a new, better connector for it, and voila . . . I have full GI.

Thanks for getting me to root cause so quickly.

Gonna need better pictures than 5 cell phone pics with the flash on.

Good, glad it helped. Anytime you have new pins, if it's a replacement run or a board, it's best to replace any bad molex connecters, if not they could ruin the pins or the solder.

Great variation of my design! I really like it!

As many may have seen, I’ve introduced some blue into my Getaway to help support the police presence in the theme (blue pops, blue flipper rubbers, couple of the clear inserts, etc.) I also just replaced my red sling flashers with blue and played for the first time tonight. I must say that I really like them. I know we’ve had this discussion before, but I’m on the side that really likes the flashers to be bright so that they draw attention to themselves when they are triggered. My flasher of choice is the Comet 13 SMD tower, and the blue in the slings definitely has a visual impact.

So, if you want to mix things up a bit with the white or red I bet most of you are using, I recommend you give blue flashers a try on your slings (these are actually the two flashers located in the ball lane dividers near the flippers that flash when the slings are fired).

Why? Do you need a second Getaway?

Only ribbing you, of course. I just like drawing attention to for sale postings as I know we have frequent visitors to our great thread that are not currently owners.

On the other hand, even though I know it is just another pin to most, it always grieves me a little when I see someone departing ways with theirs.

One of my friends is looking for one after playing mine. Mostly I just overlook ads that people don't bother to take decent pictures. I wouldn't say it shows the lack of care they put into the machine but definitely about how much they care to sell it.

Oh, your criticism is quite fair. I believe sometime back I even started a thread on the right and wrong ways to post pics of pins. It amazes me how poor some are, but I guess not everyone understands how to or surprisely has the means to take good quality photos.