(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN


By MrSanRamon

5 years ago



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  • 9,290 posts
  • 349 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Mr_Tantrum
  • Topic is favorited by 163 Pinsiders

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There are 9290 posts in this topic. You are on page 169 of 186.
#8401 7 months ago

That looks great, I bought a red acrylic filter for mine but it definitely still looks orange red. Where did you get yours it looks nice and dark.

#8402 7 months ago

I know on a lot of the early DMD games its kind of overkill but Color DMD looks really good in Getaway for some reason.

#8403 7 months ago

FYI, I have a red acrylic DMD filter that I’m happy to sell. Bought when I first got my Getaway and the deep red does look great (produces a true blood red color). Since then my DMD went out so I replaced it with a LED panel and I now run it in red mode so no need for the filter.

Added 7 months ago:

FYI, I had two Getaway owners that expressed interest to buy, but for varying reasons chose not to. Therefore, I still have the deep red acrylic DMD filter available. Please PM if interested.

Added 7 months ago:

The red DMD filter has been spoken for. Thanks for everyone's interest.

#8404 7 months ago
Quoted from ruzeo:

That looks great, I bought a red acrylic filter for mine but it definitely still looks orange red. Where did you get yours it looks nice and dark.

Thanks! Yes it's definitely a true red appearance on this one. This filter came from a Stern SAM era game, the hole pattern was slightly different. Easily fixed with a Dremel tool or similar. I believe this is the same as what you'd buy from Pinbits but don't know for sure.

#8405 7 months ago

Can someone tell me if this is the correct flipper coil for the upper third flipper? The reason I ask is because it is difficult for me to hit the upper loop shot from this flipper. I’ve balanced the game with the PinGuy app and the flipper is adjusted to where it appears to be in the correct resting position. It flips as if it functions properly so I think it’s working correctly. Thanks.

AEB06B1C-6419-46A5-9413-C98C27AE5F9A (resized).jpeg
#8406 7 months ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Can someone tell me if this is the correct flipper coil for the upper third flipper? The reason I ask is because it is difficult for me to hit the upper loop shot from this flipper. I’ve balanced the game with the PinGuy app and the flipper is adjusted to where it appears to be in the correct resting position. It flips as if it functions properly so I think it’s working correctly. Thanks.
[quoted image]

That is the correct flipper coil.

Check things like the actual alignment of the flipper bat. Also try to film the ball or watch it as it makes the loop and make sure it's not something else interfering with the smooth loop action of the ball.

That is the correct flipper paw, etc. Just make sure the flipper has the proper up/down adjustment.. should have enough play to wiggle up and down about 1/16". Make sure the flipper movement is without resistance or dragging in and out. Lastly you'd check that you are getting both high and low power flips.. but that's less of an issue with these fliptronics games

#8407 7 months ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

That is the correct flipper coil.
Check things like the actual alignment of the flipper bat. Also try to film the ball or watch it as it makes the loop and make sure it's not something else interfering with the smooth loop action of the ball.
That is the correct flipper paw, etc. Just make sure the flipper has the proper up/down adjustment.. should have enough play to wiggle up and down about 1/16". Make sure the flipper movement is without resistance or dragging in and out. Lastly you'd check that you are getting both high and low power flips.. but that's less of an issue with these fliptronics games

Maybe I just suck at pinball.

#8408 7 months ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Maybe I just suck at pinball.

I blame the loop itself, mainly the star post that sticks out in the middle of it. I took it out of mine and put a straight post instead, tiny difference which allows 7+ loops easily, got 10loops finally from changing it. You can see the difference in before and after pics on my machine.

20180630_170543 (resized).jpg20180708_000140 (resized).jpg
#8409 7 months ago

Your first picture is incorrect just FYI. That long rubber shouldn't loop around that star post. A small circle rubber that just goes around the star post is much smaller and allows better looping. I can see how you'd be having trouble there. Either way, it's not necessarily easy to make the loop 5-10 times in a row!

#8410 7 months ago
Quoted from RVApinballer:

That long rubber shouldn't loop around that star post. A small circle rubber that just goes around the star post is much smaller and allows better looping

Ah, was super hard when I first got it when it looked like top pic, I put the straight post in to counter it but I can see how the proper rubbers would make it smoother as well. Thanks!

#8411 7 months ago

So here is my loop post set up. Seems correct. The flipper doesn’t have any resistance until about 80% extended. Then there is some slight resistance to fully extended. See the pic with my fat finger showing where in the travel that it starts to hold back some.

0DFE9394-D0C9-425A-AE9F-A6FFDFC484FB (resized).jpeg3C07E922-7904-43D0-96A4-56BB594EA308 (resized).jpeg75A13985-78D6-4874-82D5-22209E14D28A (resized).jpeg
#8412 7 months ago

The little resistance at the end should be when it is contacting the EOS switch and is normal. Your alignment looks good.

Is it you can't get a clean shot to go all the way around, you can't hit the orbit at all? The ball limps around?

#8413 7 months ago

I can’t get a clean shot. Maybe 1 in 15 times. It rattles off the post and all over the place. I understand not getting it off the tunnel shot cause for me the kickout bounces around and doesn’t roll down smoothly.

#8414 7 months ago

I’m pretty sure that’s just Getaway being Getaway, it really punishes inaccuracy with some amazingly frustrating rattlers. Your flipper and post setup looks correct to me, how’s your level and angle?

#8415 7 months ago

The post you removed was added later by the designers, because the loop shot was considered too easy. Resultingly, the fact that now you manage 10 loops easy shows that there is some reaso to that Technically speaking, it should stay where it is, if you want to play the game "as designed".

#8416 7 months ago
Quoted from Sprudeldudel:

The post you removed was added later by the designers, because the loop shot was considered too easy. Resultingly, the fact that now you manage 10 loops easy shows that there is some reaso to that Technically speaking, it should stay where it is, if you want to play the game "as designed".

I agree, if I get 4 loops I'm feeling pretty good but each to their own.

#8417 7 months ago

I set my angle to 6.5* and it's level, all according to the PinGuy app. That post needs to flash yellow or something, like a disabled vehicle, cause it's clearly in the road. It's not even on the berm. It's no wonder my Lambo hits it all the time!

7ec2ddc7483e07959bf57db09f6e4f43baf43f35.jpeg (resized).jpg
#8418 7 months ago
Quoted from Charger500:

I set my angle to 6.5* and it's level, all according to the PinGuy app. That post needs to flash yellow or something, like a disabled vehicle, cause it's clearly in the road. It's not even on the berm. It's no wonder my Lambo hits it all the time!
[quoted image]

And people say there's no "skill shot" in the Getaway! lol

#8419 7 months ago

Well, the instructions make it look easy...

pasted_image (resized).png
#8420 7 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

You’re welcome. Definitely a plastic that should have been original.

Yeah, really does look nice!
Did you print that on a deskjet and cut the plastic yourself?

#8421 7 months ago
Quoted from Archon9000:

Yeah, really does look nice!
Did you print that on a deskjet and cut the plastic yourself?

Basically, yes.

I have an Epson photo quality inkjet printer (6 color) and for these I use a photo quality matte paper (not gloss photo) because I want it to be translucent. I then cover with a clear gloss vinyl material, and on the backside apply Scotch permanent double-sided tape. I use the backing from the vinyl wrap on as the backing of the newly created sticker, then I cut out with straight edge and razor knife. Once cut, I run a black Sharpie along the outside edge from the underside, so as to hide the white edge of the paper.

With that done I print a second copy but don't apply the clear vinyl to use as a sacrificial template. For the plastic, I use Lexan (I forget what thickness, but buy it from Home Depot in various size sheets). I then glue the sacrificial print that I created and cut out to the Lexan with a glue stick on top of the protective plastic layer that comes on the Lexan. Typically, I align the long edge of the decal with a precut straight edge of the Lexan. Using a pneumatic grinder with a small cutting disk and a metal square to keep my edge straight, I cut out the opposite long side of the graphic. I then cut the edges square and mount a mini-drum sander bit into my pneumatic grinder and carefully round the edges down to the graphic. I then hand sand with a block sander all the way around the edges to remove any burrs or rough edges. Finally, I drill the two screw holes (I have the position printed on the graphic), but off the top of my head can't remember what size bit I use.

Now that I have my plastic done, I clean it off and remove the top protective film that has my graphic attached to expose the bare Lexan. I then apply my previously created decal/sticker carefully to properly align with the plastic, and firmly adhere the entire decal using finger pressure. To finish it off, I use my razor knife to cut out the screw holes.

There is actually quite a bit of work to do it right, but the results are great (or at lease ask the several people in the forum that had me make theirs to see what they think). I encourage everyone to make their own, and you can download the graphic for free at http://www.thezumwaltfamily.com/getawaypinball or you can throw $10 my way and I'll do it for you (just PM me for details). FYI, I also do the same process for a custom plastic for the center target bank to replace the metal piece, bur I charge $12 for that one (takes a little more work).

#8422 7 months ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Well, the instructions make it look easy...
[quoted image]

Notice where they show the ball traveling, not on the road near the star post, but more of the ball following the metal ball guides on the outer loop. I found that was the issue with my Kickback, the ball guide is off a little bit and only makes the outhole shot 60% of the time. I've tweaked the coil, the rubbers, the angles, adjusted the switch and rebuilt everything several times but in the end it's just how it launches and how the ball guide is shaped.

I had a similar issue with the shooter but I was able to get that fixed and always makes the loop.

#8423 7 months ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

Notice where they show the ball traveling, not on the road near the star post, but more of the ball following the metal ball guides on the outer loop. I found that was the issue with my Kickback, the ball guide is off a little bit and only makes the outhole shot 60% of the time. I've tweaked the coil, the rubbers, the angles, adjusted the switch and rebuilt everything several times but in the end it's just how it launches and how the ball guide is shaped.
I had a similar issue with the shooter but I was able to get that fixed and always makes the loop.

I think that my upper loop record is 7. However, that was a long time ago, and now I can't seem to get more than 1 or 2 at most these days. Don't know if it is my play or some tweaking that I've done.

#8424 7 months ago

To everyone that ordered CPR Plastics for getaway (in the past or recently)...

I have been discussing with Kevin@CPR about the hole template on the set. I got a replacement set recently, and found the holes drilled for the layered plastics on the slingshots and near the shooter lane where the plastic snap-in standoffs were used were not big enough.

By stand-offs... I mean these fun puppies..
standoff (resized).jpg

Kevin says they've not had any issues with this in the past, and we're trying to understand if this is 'steve is stupid' moment, or if other people have had similar issues but just not brought it up (and if changes should be made!)

The specifics... the hole template seems to be 5/32 as the standard screw mount hole size. But there was no difference in size between screw mounts and these stand-off+screw mount hole locations. In particular, the gauge plastics that sit over the slingshots, and the speed sign plastic that is near the lock on the side of the playfield. Plastics at the back of the game, did have larger holes for the stand-offs.

In my case, I expanded the holes to 13/64 to make it large enough to accomodate the stand-off+bolt.

Before Kevin goes and makes going forward changes, can any of you previous buyers chime in on your experience?

Thx

#8425 7 months ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

To everyone that ordered CPR Plastics for getaway (in the past or recently)...
I have been discussing with Kevin@CPR about the hole template on the set. I got a replacement set recently, and found the holes drilled for the layered plastics on the slingshots and near the shooter lane where the plastic snap-in standoffs were used were not big enough.
By stand-offs... I mean these fun puppies..
[quoted image]
Kevin says they've not had any issues with this in the past, and we're trying to understand if this is 'steve is stupid' moment, or if other people have had similar issues but just not brought it up (and if changes should be made!)
The specifics... the hole template seems to be 5/32 as the standard screw mount hole size. But there was no difference in size between screw mounts and these stand-off+screw mount hole locations. In particular, the gauge plastics that sit over the slingshots, and the speed sign plastic that is near the lock on the side of the playfield. Plastics at the back of the game, did have larger holes for the stand-offs.
In my case, I expanded the holes to 13/64 to make it large enough to accomodate the stand-off+bolt.
Before Kevin goes and makes going forward changes, can any of you previous buyers chime in on your experience?
Thx

I think I had to drill out the couple of sets that I had installed in my Getaway games. I emailed CPR about the color differences in the first runs of plastics, hoping that they can change the orange to be like the originals. I haven't heard back yet. I would be in for a new set of bright orange if they can change it easily with the new process.

#8426 7 months ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

To everyone that ordered CPR Plastics for getaway (in the past or recently)...
I have been discussing with Kevin@CPR about the hole template on the set. I got a replacement set recently, and found the holes drilled for the layered plastics on the slingshots and near the shooter lane where the plastic snap-in standoffs were used were not big enough.
By stand-offs... I mean these fun puppies..
[quoted image]
Kevin says they've not had any issues with this in the past, and we're trying to understand if this is 'steve is stupid' moment, or if other people have had similar issues but just not brought it up (and if changes should be made!)
The specifics... the hole template seems to be 5/32 as the standard screw mount hole size. But there was no difference in size between screw mounts and these stand-off+screw mount hole locations. In particular, the gauge plastics that sit over the slingshots, and the speed sign plastic that is near the lock on the side of the playfield. Plastics at the back of the game, did have larger holes for the stand-offs.
In my case, I expanded the holes to 13/64 to make it large enough to accomodate the stand-off+bolt.
Before Kevin goes and makes going forward changes, can any of you previous buyers chime in on your experience?
Thx

I put my CPR plastic set in a few years ago, but I do recall making the holes for those stand-offs a bit larger. I wasn't sure if it was just me, but I was sure I'd break it even if I managed to cram them in there. Luckily I still had the protective sheets on when I drilled the holes so it was no big deal really. Never did mention it as it was my first plastics kit.

#8427 7 months ago

Thanks guys. I figured people just cut the standoff’s or drilled the holes. Just trying to confirm with others to feel good about not being an outlier

#8428 7 months ago

Printing my own donut heaven mod right now

If everything turns out fine, I will share my STL files for this ... Stay tuned ...

IMG_20180914_181039473 (resized).jpgIMG_20180914_183104410 (resized).jpgIMG_20180914_183153901 (resized).jpg
#8429 7 months ago
Quoted from OlliG:

Printing my own donut heaven mod right now
If everything turns out fine, I will share my STL files for this ... Stay tuned ...
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Following this. I have access to a 3D printer. I’m assuming that’s how you’re doing it.

#8430 7 months ago

I got the two plastics from tantrum that he makes. They both look great. The long skinny one that covers the targets next to the ramp. And the one that replaces the metal piece around the bumpers. He also has plenty of other goodies for your getaway. Great person to deal with.

20180914_195624 (resized).jpg20180914_195645 (resized).jpg
#8431 7 months ago

The roof is done....
Next will be some painting.....

IMG_20180915_171526016 (resized).jpgIMG_20180915_172359259 (resized).jpgIMG_20180915_172412758 (resized).jpg
#8432 7 months ago

That looks pretty slick!

#8433 7 months ago
Quoted from OlliG:

The roof is done....
Next will be some painting..... [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks good. I might give it a small threshold at the bottom of the door section, put some windows in that puppy, fill it with my patrons decals, and illuminate it with a Comet Matrix LED strip.
dh.jpg

#8434 7 months ago

Also, I can't quite tell from the pic, but what is the license plate number on your Lambo? I made a custom "KINGPIN" for mine to match the backglass

I also added a light behind the backglass one to light it up. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/115#post-3694340

#8435 7 months ago
Quoted from Jon9508:

And the one that replaces the metal piece around the bumpers

Cliffy has a thinner metal plate that will go underneath it. Ask him for it to not kill your plastic quickly.

#8436 7 months ago
Quoted from Sprudeldudel:

Cliffy has a thinner metal plate that will go underneath it. Ask him for it to not kill your plastic quickly.

I've had my custom plastic for more than a year and have made probably a dozen others for Getaway owners. Never had a single issue with it up to this point. I like it clear because it illuminates from the bulb behind the targets. I also put a Matrix LED strip under the left targets to light that one up too.

#8437 7 months ago
Quoted from OlliG:

The roof is done....
Next will be some painting..... [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Very nice job. Now it you could light up the individual letters on the roof and maybe make them all fade on one at a time till all were lit then all flash on and off a couple times then go dark and start all over again. WOW!

#8438 7 months ago
Quoted from OlliG:

The roof is done....
Next will be some painting..... [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

You great design now has me wondering how to take it to the next level. What tool did you use to design the 3D model (I've never used anything other than Tinkercad to design parts)? I'm thinking you could add a brick texture to the outside of the building pretty easily, and maybe some kind of shingle texture or waving tin texture to the roof.

#8439 7 months ago

I did a new roof in black with a hole for transparent letters on a transparent block....

Looks really cool.... And with my beloved Arduino I can do any Lightshow I want on this....

And even the inside is lid....

IMG_20180916_183605546_BURST003 (resized).jpgIMG_20180916_183820531_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20180916_184349194_HDR (resized).jpg
#8440 7 months ago
Quoted from OlliG:

I did a new roof in black with a hole for transparent letters on a transparent block....
Looks really cool.... And with my beloved Arduino I can do any Lightshow I want on this....
And even the inside is lid....[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That's cool! I bet the pics don't do it justice. Can you give an underneath shot to show how the lighting is arranged?

#8441 7 months ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Very nice job. Now it you could light up the individual letters on the roof and maybe make them all fade on one at a time till all were lit then all flash on and off a couple times then go dark and start all over again. WOW!

And you thought you were just being a smart@$$. Hah!

#8442 7 months ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Very nice job. Now it you could light up the individual letters on the roof and maybe make them all fade on one at a time till all were lit then all flash on and off a couple times then go dark and start all over again. WOW!

To light the individual Letters you need to have a Neopixel Stripe with 144 LED's...
I only have one with 60LED's per meter......but I think it is ok!

Here are some more (and sharper) pictures made with a better camera....
The LED Stripe is sitting in the groove in the block under the Letters....

2018-09-16 19_27_24-Window (resized).pngP1060690 (resized).pngP1060698 (resized).pngP1060701 (resized).pngP1060703 (resized).png
#8443 7 months ago

By the way...
I was thinking of producing a few of those Donut Heavens... with ready rogrammed Arduino, LED Stripe, and so on...
But before I dig deeper into this... I need to know how many people are interested? PM me please....

#8444 7 months ago

Hey guys. I'm trying to install these lighted flipper buttons I got from Marco. I can't seem to figure out the power supply. There are 2 places on getaway that I can plug the stock power supply (on the led flipper button) into ( you can see one of these connections in the very top of the pic of my getaway's power supply). When I plug the flipper buttons in there, the buttons don't light up.

As you can see, the kit came with a splitter. To test the buttons, unplugged a strip from getaway's power supply and plugged the splitter in, then plugged the lights into the splitter, the lights work.

Not sure where I need to go from here. Does anyone have any advice?

IMG_20180916_162928 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20180916_161245 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20180916_161257 (resized).jpg
#8445 7 months ago

Normally you use the 5/12V connector that is on the 3 plug connector near the power switch box (under the right flipper). Can't tell from your photo, but are both flipper boards daisy chained off that one 3 wire connector? If so, just use that and plug it into the 3 plug connector. The splitter with the IDC connector is for Spike games I think.. all the marco sets on their website show for Sterns. I expect that's an adaptor not needed if your game has the normal 3 pin 5/12V connector.

#8446 7 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

And you thought you were just being a smart@$$. Hah!

Nope not at all, I was interested to see if he thought of it.

#8447 7 months ago
Quoted from red-line:

Hey guys. I'm trying to install these lighted flipper buttons I got from Marco. I can't seem to figure out the power supply. There are 2 places on getaway that I can plug the stock power supply (on the led flipper button) into ( you can see one of these connections in the very top of the pic of my getaway's power supply). When I plug the flipper buttons in there, the buttons don't light up.
As you can see, the kit came with a splitter. To test the buttons, unplugged a strip from getaway's power supply and plugged the splitter in, then plugged the lights into the splitter, the lights work.
Not sure where I need to go from here. Does anyone have any advice?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

For my games which have a lot of 12v mods like your flipper buttons I use an 8 way splitter and power it with a 110v to 12v 2amp wall wart converter into the service outlet. Here's the set up on my Jackbot.

IMGA0596 (resized).JPG
#8448 7 months ago

Hi there
I would love a set of plastics for my machine
Any help would be appreciated
I have been looking for a while
Thanks in advance

#8449 7 months ago
Quoted from Kanivr:

Hi there
I would love a set of plastics for my machine
Any help would be appreciated
I have been looking for a while
Thanks in advance

CPR has them up on the website now, just not sure if they have corrected the orange color from the previous run.
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-plastics/getaway-2/

#8450 7 months ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Normally you use the 5/12V connector that is on the 3 plug connector near the power switch box (under the right flipper). Can't tell from your photo, but are both flipper boards daisy chained off that one 3 wire connector? If so, just use that and plug it into the 3 plug connector. The splitter with the IDC connector is for Spike games I think.. all the marco sets on their website show for Sterns. I expect that's an adaptor not needed if your game has the normal 3 pin 5/12V connector.

Yes, I believe they are daisy chained. Yeah, we tried plugging it in both places with no luck. I'm grabbing a voltmeter after work to see if there's power running to the connector.

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