Thanks but I just ordered.

hey guys - I have a very nice getaway but realized the supercharger could be a little faster. I've read many topics and they point to optos but mine are working (I cleaned too - they register fine). The diverter appears to be working well also (it closes opens when expected). I'm trying to figure out how to make this faster.....see below. Any suggestions?

How’s that diverter either of the rivets broken? Get that police car outta the way and take some slow motion video... you want it to be smooth going into that diverter. It could also be smacking the plastic that the car is mounted to... that’s why ya need to move the car and not just take the plastic off. I had to put a plastic washer under mine EDIT:
In fact now that I’ve watched it again, I bet the ball is striking whatever that car is mounted with because the whole thing moves... That’s garbage, get you a factory plastic son

Haha! I will tell you I lifted the plastic and it still seems to be a little slow. I will take pic of diverter. I will tell you it seems a little shaky.... And I think it hits the diverter that's making the shaking of the car

Also what do you have your balance reading? I believe mine is 6.5 per my app. Balance level shows two bars above

That speed is nothing to be worried about.

If the divertor wiggles, see if the rivers that hole the plate to the shaft are tight and intact

That might be it as I looked below and the base does look a little loose. Can it be tightened without taking charger apart?

The assembly is all on the bottom of the supercharger loop. The main culprit is the divertor itself. The rail is held to a shaft with 2 rivets... these tend to stretch out or fail. Pretty sure you gotta take the supercharger loop off to get any access to the assembly as it's all mounted on the bottom. But checking if the plate moves/wiggles free of the shaft you should be able to do in place.

The part is generally not available.. so you have to either a) replace rivets with screw/nut... or b) re-rivet the plate to the shaft.

Thanks I'm going to take a pic of what mine looks like and post it. If I physically hold the diverter it still doesn't help the speed so not sure.

Hmmmm.... well, slow motion video tell all.

What should I focus on exactly for slow motion? The same angle I did before (all diverter) or the pulled back everything view? I'll do it tonight and post.

This gw is very nice! I want it to be perfect...

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I suppose you're right that the speed doesn't matter but anything over 130 is really high and indicates some sort of issue.

Sure looks like it's moving around some in the video

Agreed

The gate under that cop car could cause the slow down that's what I would start with for the slow motion. Make sure you're using new balls too, little things can make a difference in the SC time.

so the good news is that after I took off the car and plastic I figured out the diverter was causing slowdown and was able to adjust so that it hits 100 or so. Bad news is that the supercharger just stopped working! Maybe too much testing? Optos all register but the magnets don't seem to be doing their thing. Left ramp opto works good too.

Thinking blown fuse...

I don't think the rivets are bad but I will take pic....

No one can really tell from a photo.. unless it's trash. Literally, just see if the 'arm' portion wiggles independently of the shaft. That's what you are looking for.. and you will see it as 'give' in the divertor when the balls pass in the slow mo video. The divertor arm and shaft should be one rigid structure.

OK - will do.

btw - fuse 103 blew. back in the business.

so arm doesn't move independently but the rod that has the arm attached to it does wiggle. Is there a way to make the rod itself tight on the base? Meaning the rod would be shakey at all?

EDIT - looks like there are two spots for allen wrenches under there - I'm going to try if I can tighten those...it's a little wobbly at the base of it. Already though I'm at 115.

IIRC... it just goes through a metal collar as the bushing. It should have minimal side to side wiggle (similar to a flipper). It's possible the linkage on the plunger arm is worn and you are getting slop there... but I guess it really depends on how much slop there is, and would it be removed with a cleaner part.

I'd still start by focusing on watching it all during a simple slow mo video... watch the area near the transition/divertor for the ball getting rattled/etc

It's that part for sure bc it can increase speeds to 90 or so from 110. See this pic. Right where my pointer finger is (first on the left) if I press that towards the supercharger (so toward my other fingers in that pic) the speed increases.

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Once you get around 100 your where you should be. Anything lower than that is fine tuning. You get below 90-95 then you need to start sending me pm’s cause that’s where mine sets

not there yet! I don't know it's 120 or so - not bad but it just seems like if a little more pressure is put on that metal part where my finger is, it would be a gain of 10 or more. I'm thinking of putting something there just to put a little more pressure but not sure what. The arm is def on it so it's one unit - no wiggle there. It's the rod itself and if you feel that circular thing below with what appears to be two allen wrench type screws you can wiggle that back and forth. Wonder if there is a way to make that sturdier...

flynnibus you're right in that the slop feels like that of a flipper....

OK - took super slow mo!!! The diverter action doesn't look that bad - ball is airborne coming in

I feel like that looks pretty good?

You may want to push a washer or two under the bracket supporting the supercharger to the center bank... or play with it loose to see if you can eliminate that ball hop/airborne.

The actuator on the diverter is slotted, so I doubt it will ever be fully taunt - https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=A-15569+

The diverter looks fine to me... it's side to side rattle or hitting the edge that usually beats down the speed.

Sorry but where do you put that washer?

Mine runs mid 80's and sometimes clips high 70's, the average is probably 85. I had my accelerator board rebuilt by Clive at Coin Op Cauldron about 8 years ago (awesome guy who does great work) and I also bought a backup board from Homepin that runs in the mid 80's (they ship them with a posted SC time and is was listed at 85). These are great boards and I'm glad they made them available for sale.

I also replaced all the optos years ago and swapped out a magnet; however, I do notice a slow down when the balls get magnetized and speeds will be in the 90's but I agree, those numbers are still great.

In the end flynnibus is right, the SC is just a toy and the speeds do not impact game play it's just cooler when the ball flies around the track.

I'm talking about adjusting the slope/height of the supercharger loop. So the leg that comes off the loop to the center bank that supports the front part of the supercharger loop. See if adjusting that height helps or not.

My Getaway had no ball-deflector... So I made one by myself... Made of Plexiglas and a label I got from Mr_Tantrum

The front sign with the speed limit is my own design...
I hope it will prevent the ball from getting locked on the supercharger. (Happened 2 times to me so far during Multiball....)

IMG_20180902_194715065_LL (resized).jpg

Cool sign - love it!

Should that ball deflector sign say “ACHTUNG”?

Hey TM, I jacked with my SC countless times, and I still typically average between 120 and 150 all during the same test. I have all new optos, very little play at all in my diverter gate (makes zero difference if I hold it by hand in various positions during testing), new balls, have cleaned the entire lane, etc. I've not replaced magnets or done anything with driver board.

I guess my question is do you think there would be any difference if I purchased a new Homepin board. What exactly were your symptoms from years ago, and did the new/rebuilt board alone make a significant difference?

My supercharger sounds a lot like yours, and I tried installing a homepin board. It made no difference at all for me.

Game still plays great, but don't really want to throw money at a board or new mags w/o knowing I'll see improvement. I guess I could measure the voltage to the mags to see what I'm getting. I'm sure I could look it up, but does anyone know off the top of their head what it should be?

i swapped boards outta mine with a different one and it made no differance. My optos looked like popcorn kernals and replacing those with new surprisingly made no difference. Then I replaced the diverter and it went from the 130’s down to the mid 90’s...

It's really hard to say but you could have board issues. I forget what prompted me to send my board to Clive but I'm pretty sure it was sluggish SC times. After his repair and switching out the optos it ran super fast. The magnet was unrelated and after the fact.

In all honesty, I purchased the Homepin board last year as a backup because these boards were N/A for many years. I tested it and it ran at the speed they claimed. My personal opinion is if everything else related to your SC is good then it may be the board slowing you down. It costs $100 brand new shipped, more than a rebuild should cost but there is no down time like a rebuild. Before you buy one I would check everything related to the SC including anything related to powering it from the driver board, if it all checks out then this board may resolve your issues.

I don't YouTube and I dont know how to post a video of my time test but it's pretty sweet when you see the ball/balls whipping around in the 80's...

I agree, replacing a board may not resolve the issue, so if your voltage if off or your magnets are toast or your optos are bad or you have bad connections or your diverter gate is broken or if the ball is hitting plastics ... a new board/rebuild is worthless but if you're certain you've addressed every possible issue then it may be that the board was at fault.

If you're running that slowly then there are issues with your SC. There are many things involved with getting your times lowered but mine probably runs those speeds with only 2 magnets energized. I suppose magnets can lose their effectiveness but I have no idea how one would test that...

You replaced your board with a new Homepin board and saw no improvement? Have you tested the SC in the T-12, cycling through the different combinations?

I'm not advocating buying one of these boards but I can tell you my experience with a rebuild and a Homepin board have greatly helped my SC times.

I’ve cleaned the optos and made sure the diverter is working properly. Also cleaned the ramp and loop and installed new balls.

I don’t know if the magnets are working 100%. During the test it takes 2 magnets enabled for the ball to make it around the loop. Any combination of 2 magnets seem to suffice, so I assume they’re all working. However I have no idea how to tell if they need to be replaced to get it back up to speed.

Hope do you test reach of the magnets?

T-12, if I understand your question correctly.

I'd have to go back and look at the schematics to see what powers the accelerator board, it's been a while since I've had to mess around with my SC.

Yeah that helped... Lowered it a bit and now I'm 95-115. I'm good with that. Thanks

If you want to try a new supercharger board you can test drive mine. Just cover shipping back and forth.

If it works for you, you can just buy it from me for whatever they go for (can’t rememebr off the top of my head).. It’s less than 2 months old.

This was actually something that occurred to me last nite as well. I’ve never messed with this myself. I am also going to try this...

Long time ago, someone made some bumper caps for getaway that looked like the ones from the original high speed... anyone have any? Or know where to get some?

Just in case somebody needs those files

Advisory_Curve_Speed_English_45.svg2.jpg

Speedlimit Curve.png

serpentine.jpg

How do you actually test them bc I do to supercharger and it says coils disabled optos open close. I can manually cause the optos to change but how do I test coils which I'm assuming are the magnets?

If you hit the enter button you can enable them. Keep hitting enter and you’ll see how you can enable a single coil, or any combination you want.

I believe you cycle through the combinations using the two red (center) buttons.

Thanks Mr_Tantrum!
Plastic looks great

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You’re welcome. Definitely a plastic that should have been original.

Can you take a picture of the full pf? Curious what this looks like

Was considering a ColorDMD, threw a red acrylic filter in there instead. Looks great, I'll consider it money saved! (For this game at least, haha)

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