If anyone grabs a CPR plastic set and doesn't want the desktop display send me a PM! Been looking for one casually for a good while. Thanks!

msg sent.

In case you missed it, I created a custom topper out of the CPR desktop display that I acquired from another generous Getaway owner. Pretty simple with a block of wood with a couple of slits cut into it, some Comet Matrix lighting, and voila!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/145#post-4174850

My coin door came with a worn out pricing sticker, I bought replacements even though I like it better blank. These would probably look decent if somebody shopped them with a red background for Getaway and reprinted them.

will prices.pdf

What are these exactly?

Anyway, if there is interest and someone can provide exact dimensions (or if you image is 100% to scale), I'm happy to recreate them in red (probably white lettering would look best with maybe a black stroke).

These stickers came with early 90s Williams games with that style coin door with the blank space between the slots. My HUO T2 has one right between the slots from the factory.

Look to be 3" wide by 2" tall from the PDF that was attached. Take your pick from what I've attached, or let me know what else might you want printed on it.

Getaway_CoinDoorSticker.jpg

Getaway_CoinDoorSticker2.jpg

Getaway_CoinDoorSticker3.jpg

Getaway_CoinDoorSticker4.jpg

2 inches by 3 inches correct. They should be exact scans I used one of the expensive ones at my work. Nice work Mr. Tantrum, clearly Williams wasn't thinking about the Free Play market in the good old coin op days.

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I had to order one through spare parts Australia. These things are unobtanium... get your lube out cause the shipped price is gonna hurt. These things should only be like a 15-$20 part

Welcome to our world, shipping the other way is even more expensive for us due to the dollar conversion rate so we generally make sure there is a generous supply of lube

I just ordered from Australia as well for another unobtainable part! It wasn’t that bad but I wish I waited.
Does anyone have the rear ramp flap? I think I can get by with just a new flap for a while.

I think pinbits had those on stock... Otherwise I do have a chrome coated one with some flaws, which I could let go for EUR 20 plus shipping.

I just need the back one and they had the whole kit. I'm gonna wait until I can find one in the US or fabricate one. The whole kit is $22 us but I'm being cheap!

The stainless flaps look super nice. Pony up you’ll be glad ya did. I’m happy with mine.

Also, your local enough cocomonkeh. I have some extra spring steel for making these... if ya wanna meet up I’ll give it to ya and you’ll just have to cut your own. I had to do this for a Pinbot I had

Shout out to Mr.T! Just got my Pinsound installed yesterday and have been trying your different mixes. Set a new grand champ and loop champ score this morning and I'm giving all the credit to the new audio files! Thanks for all the work you have done!

I'm telling you, the tunes make you a better pinball player! Glad you like it.

Alright I'm sending out an SOS....

My supercharger divertor is bugging me. The divertor works. Problem is that sometimes the ball is passes through the divertor because it is travelling faster than the divertor is engaging. I thought it was the coil that was losing strength. Tonight I replaced it and same thing happens. It works but only the pinball is not going through very fast. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

Maurizio

Are you using stock speakers? Thinking of getting a pinsound for my getaway, so I'm curious if its worth it with stock speakers or if a speaker upgrade is mandatory too.

Thanks.

I am not using stock speakers, and it definitely made a difference for me with Pinsound. In addition, you will want to rewire your speakers for stereo (Pinsound sells a stereo harness to make it easier) to get the best quality as they were originally in a mono configuration. The stock backbox speakers are not even a pair in that the right one is just a small tweeter. With that stated, you don't have to go over the top with your speakers if you don't want to. While Pinsound and others offer great sets, I opted for a more affordable option from parts-express.com that all in cost me less that $50.

Dayton Audio DC160S-8 6-1/2" Classic Shielded Woofer - Part # 295-306
Pyle PL53BL Blue Label 5-1/4" Triaxial Speaker Pair - Part # 267-080 (I did have to use some small nylon standoffs for these that I got at ACE)

The divertor is nice and solid? No slop in the rivets that hold it to the shaft? The shaft and plate should be solid together. This is a common failure point where the divertor stretches out its mounts.

Check the supercharger entrance optos. I bet they’re intermittent. Maybe a good cleaning will help but I bet it’s time to replace them.

I replaced the entrance optos. When that didn't solve the problems I examined the shaft and the plate. Both look solid and function as they should. I'm thinking maybe a wire dropped somewhere. I'm going to retrace the wires to the coil and the ramp to see if all is in order......

Stock speakers but the stereo cable so the sound is no longer mono. Speakers sound great but the sub is horrible. I ran the sub wire to my 10inch external sub instead.

Today's creation... let's hope this baby works well! Don't want to retry

screen (resized).jpg

You made your own silk screen?

Yup! Some else did the art... im just making the screen and printing with it

There was a guy who made a tach for his HS2. I think these would sell well. I think kyle5574 made it. Wish he would put together a kit!

I've you've ever watched all his videos on how he made this, this mod is incredibly technical, time consuming, and I'm not sure what he would need to sell these for to be worth his time.

Very cool mod, but definitely not easily reproducible and probably cost too much to reproduce IMHO.

I’ve watched every video. I’m technically inclined, but don’t want to tackle this project. I’ve PM’d him twice with no response. I’d pay crazy money for his HS2 tach.

Very impressive

Here I am!

Yeah. It was about $400 just for the parts, plus a few days of labor to assemble a board and the wiring for it. Even at a high price, I don’t have the time to build them. Also one of the chips that I used went out-of-production a couple years ago. I couldn’t build that design again even if I wanted to.

I wish I could get it out there, but it’s just not feasible with the current design.

kyle5574 , you've got a talent. I would pay that kind of money for parts and your time. I sure hope an alternative design comes up!

Have you ever meant to edit a post but accidentally clicked the quote button, somehow managed to post the message, and then since it was posted you were unable to delete it? Well, this is one of those cases.

Certainly the most awesomeness of Getaway mods ever. Heck, I just make custom decals and PinSound orchestrations where I leverage other peoples tech or original designs. Your tach is truly custom and original.

Seems legit...87D21D4F-9337-4B01-BAAB-091BCDD4D0FB (resized).jpeg

The absolute coolest mod. I wish someone had the time and smarts to put these together. I’d pay crazy money for that mod!

screen printing adventure documented here - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flynn-s-screen-printing-adventure-make-your-own#post-4510617

Its always fun to see just how far sanding and polishing go...

From
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To
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We dont need no stinking parts!

So shiny!

Like a pro.

Would you mind detailing the process (steps, products used, etc.?). Mine could use some improvement.

Hey guys, I've finally gotten around to documenting my first and only restoration ever. It's a Getaway and it ended up quite high-end. Thanks for all the support I've received here.

Lots of photos here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-2-the-getaway-first-restoration

Enjoy

Awesome thread! The detail of the process and all the pics are great. Well done.

I can see why it took so long. Beautiful! How do you like the way the game plays with the playfield protector on?

Thanks to you the machine sounds as great as it looks

I'm used to the protector from my Stern Star Wars LE. It does slow the ball down a bit, and causes sideways rotation of the ball to manifest in curved trajectories occasionally, due to the added grip. However not using a protector after this type of effort is no option for me.

If you don't have supplies lying around.. your easiest bet is probably to just buy something like a 3M headlight restoration kit. The concept is basically the same. Start with high grit sandpaper, then continue with progressivly higher sandpaper, then switch to a compound, and then polish. Essentially.. rough grit to smooth grit.. just at very high grit levels. Each higher level smooths out the scratches from the prior level. It looks scary at first, but as long as your levels are good enough, anything can be taken back to gloss.

I think the 3M kit has a 1000, 1800, then 3000 grit pad with compound fluid.

My dome was really oxidized and hazed.. and didn't have enough material left from my last headlight kit, so I just used regular sandpaper, hand sanding, and machine applied compound/polish.

I think I started with 1000 grit. Wet the paper liberally and the dome a bit (I have a small spray bottle of water I use). I sanded by hand, in straight strokes around the circumference of the dome. Just work on a bit top to bottom.. rotate.. repeat till you get all the way around. Your goal is to get a UNIFORM finish at each stage. You shouldn't see deep patterns, gouges, etc. Keep the paper wet, and flush away the slurry as you go. The water makes the paper slide better and it keeps it from gumming up. Be liberal with the water. You'll see how much easier it makes things. Complete a pass around the sides and top. Remember... uniform looking is your goal. The lower grit sandpaper will create QUITE a bit of mess/slurry.

Rinse/wipe all the slurry away with a soft rag, then move to the next higher grit sand paper. I went, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500. It only took like 5-10mins tops per grit, so I was generous with the levels I went through.

I took some photos as I went stage to stage.. so you can see how it progresses

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After about 2000 or 2500 grit.. you can move to compound instead of sandpaper. I use Meguiars compounds and polishes.

I started with Mirror Glaze 'fine cut' cleaner #2.. which is 5 on their cut scale. Used a foam pad with a drill attachment and clamped the dome to my bench.. then just worked my way around the dome. It's a bit tricky given the round cylinder.. but besides hitting the the backing plate to the plastic.. you can't really hurt anything. Reapply to the pad whenever things start drying out or you look like you are dragging material vs applying it. Again, just work around, trying to make things uniform. It will really start to clear up at this step. Wipe it down with a clean soft rag after this step to remove all the excess compound. You want to use a machine to apply this stuff if you can.. as it really needs the rotary action to be effective.

Then I moved to 'swirl remover' #9 which is a 3 on their cut scale. Using a clean foam pad, on the same backing plate/drill attachment.. worked my way around the dome. Just wiped it up with the microfiber towel after that.. and finished.

5 (resized).jpg

Since this sits so far from the player... you don't have to be perfect. For the inside, I just wiped it out.. didn't even bother polishing.

The Meguiars stuff can usually be found in your local auto store, but finding the higher or various cut levels can be challenging. I don't remember if fine cut I found local, or had to go online for. Walmart suprisingly has a good selection of the 3M and Meguiar's products.

The high grit sandpaper is easily found in small pieces in the 3M auto supplies. Cheapest I found was walmart.. they sell an assortment pack even that is perfect for these smaller playfield and plastic applications.

Less than $4 gets you a pack of 1000, 1500, 2000, and 2500 pieces - https://www.walmart.com/ip/3M-Wetordry-Automotive-Sandpaper/17130294

Pickup 2 and you'll be set for numerous projects.

This is essentially the same method as polishing your stainless ball guides/anything stainless to a mirror finish (very close to mirror anyway) only difference being that the grit level is much lower down the scale. So if they have ball trails (most older ones will have) you would start at about 80 -100 (i use wet and dry paper and sand wet, cleaning as you go) to level out then gradually work your way up through the levels of grit to about 2000 or 2500 and then polish up with a calico wheel and a compound followed by a buffing wheel to finish with. The higher grit number you go to the better the finish after using the calico wheel and compound. Great guide flynnibus TY!!. Thought it would be timely to add this info also for those that may consider polishing their ball guides. I haven't got any photos at the moment to show the end result BUT i must say they come up very nice and makes a huge difference to the overall look.

Great detailed info. I also have some scratches/gouges on the inside of mine so looks like I'll need to follow the process inside & out. The lazy me says to just buy a new one, but the cheap me says no way I'm paying that much for a piece of plastic.

They are not available currently... unless someone is selling them for crazy money. None of the regular retailers have them ATM...

Unless the scratch is some gouge... it's unlikely you'd even see it. I would consider just working that one area if needed.

I considered 'frosting' the inside of mine to make the beacon itself less visible.