It consists of the plastics, 4 spacers 0.26", and two standard PCB to hold a t10 bulb in those black bajonet sockets. Of you send me you email address as pm I can send you detailed photos of everything, which I took during my restoration.

I recently got a cool mod for my game:

60D60609-26EF-4F35-B626-90C88EE488EA (resized).jpeg

Ah man, some one tagged the hood of your Lambo!

From the manual, I can't figure it out. My assumption is that it would be listed as a 2-lamp PCB assembly, but no such thing. Also, not listed as part of the upper playfield parts. Could be on the Unique Parts section, but I can't figure out which one it might be if it is there. Going to need a pro to chime in on this one.

The supercharger ramp sign is two individual twist in lamp socket boards. Each held in with two screws and about 1/4 standoff’s. The type of pcb that just has the 555 twist in socket and solder pads on the back

Other than the plastics, there are no unique parts to it, its assembled from generic bits.
1 of these... https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8063-4
1 of these... https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8063-6
Optional, but highly recommended! 1 of these... https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1674-23-R
2 of these... ebay.com link: LOT OF 3 Williams Pinball Machine 555 LAMP BOARDS 5768 12312 00 Complete (you wont find these new anywhere, according to Marco, the part number doesn't even exist)
And obviously the 2 plastics and the generic 6-32 hardware and standoffs to assemble it.

Thanks for the links. I have been looking all over the web today for the lamp boards.

So a few weeks ago, I join the club and then....supercharger flasher problem, divertor error, up down ramp error...really? The game was in great condition when I bought it, mods, LEDs,ignition key et al. It played well for a while...then... In any event after some help from Grumpy on the flashers, Marcos, and Doug at Player 1, we made up. A few more mods and a colordmd and all is well...for now....

Here are a few pics

IMG_20180626_215355 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180626_215416 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180626_215422 (resized).jpg

I've finally gotten around to replacing my slide rails which i knew had been busted for some time, as i've mentioned before, too many projects and not enough time for them all I know this has been brought up before in the thread but seems a good time to mention it again for all new members and perhaps some of the older one's also. Check out pic/exhibit A: the original completely MUNTED rails and what the long term after effects of said munted rails can do to the wooden guides in the cab and also the damage to the underneath of the playfield - see pic/exhibit B:
Now i must mention that the damage to the playfield was already there when i got my machine (about 5 years ago) so who knows how long those slide rails had been stuffed. Final note is ** If your machine has original slide rails then visually check them, if they are bent or cause issues then replace them as soon as you can!
And yeah i know, need to reattach the braid
DSC03601 (resized).JPGDSC03602 (resized).JPG

can you post more info on the actual exchange? I have a new set sitting in my office waiting for install. Did you need to remove the playfield to do this? I've never had to approach this issue before so am a little nervous about what exactly to do.

Thanks in advance.

Darin

No you shouldn't need to remove the playfield to do the change. I didn't pull the playfield forward into lock position (it wouldn't lock anyway as it was), just pulled it forward a little bit then lifted it up and used a broom handle to prop the playfield up (which was not in full upright position mind you). i did have to shuffle the bottom of the playfield back a bit first so that the hinged piece with the spring attached wasn't fouling on the pivot . As long as the playfield isn't sitting on the pivot there should be no load on the rails. I must say that due to mine being completely stuffed, when i had the PF in the up position the bottom edge of the PF was sitting on those wood guides though. The main thing is to ensure the PF isn't supported by the slide rails at all, just propped by whatever you use to do that with. It goes without saying that you just need to make sure the PF is propped securely AND when screwing the new rails on to HOLD the PF with your other hand, if not fully back on the head it will push away from your prop.

Steve said it’s actually a Mercedes. Something that was over 500HP. But I like it tagged! Steve Ritchie Rocks!

That's certainly the dumbest thing i've ever seen posted in here... It's actually a super modified 600hp Reliant Robin!!
ac_Reliant Robin 2000 SLX head (resized).jpg

Funny he said that because it is a near exact match to the Diablo he is driving in the Getaway promo video (I don't see how that car can be confused with any Mercedes made in that era). He’s either joking or still avoiding some licensing issue with Lamborghini. Did he wink at you when he said that?

(start at 0:48 to see car)

Mine wer bent the other way, so once the playfield was pulled out and stood up I wasn't able to lower it again. Installed new slide rails and now it's better than new

Anyone have leads on the speaker grills with the williams logos?

Game is on for first time in nearly 6 months... but still some serious debugging to go...

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Hi everyone,

I have a getaway that I am trying to get working again. I had to pull the power driver board out since the relay failed on it. I swapped in a new rottendog replacement board.

Unfortunately, the video I took on my phone was lost, and I am now lost trying to get things connected again. Most of the connectors are obvious since they are keyed, but someone did some (bad) repair work on this machine and replaced a lot of connectors, so some are the wrong size and aren't keyed.

Is there anyone who could take a few high resolution photos of all of the connectors on the power driver board? The machine isn't working right at the moment, so I must have something hooked up incorrectly. I started going through the manual, but I'm having trouble following everything since the wiring descriptions are split up over many pages.

Thanks!

Use the connector tables at the very back.. in section 3. Use the cable wire colors and general sizes to id which is which on the table

Does this help?

inside backbox (resized).jpg

inside backbox 2 (resized).jpg

If what others have posted doesn't help you, please PM me exactly what you need and I'd be happy to take close up pics of everything and send to you tonight.

After finally getting my game running again and installing my colorDMD, I can say I'm very happy with the LED colorDMD choice for this title. The art style doesn't need smoothing, and the brightness level right out of the box is perfect with the rest of the game.

Now if that powdercoat order would just get here!!!

I'm happy for you! So, what is being powder coated and what color(s)?

Legs, lockdown, siderails, hinges. Final look will be a surprise

Alas my cabinet is too tight tho.. Was hoping to put mirror blades in but no way in hell they'll fit in this cabinet. It's always been a tight one, and after the rebuild.. it still is.

But game continues to get more and more upgrades as I just can't leave it less than I would want for my own keeper game. Originally wasn't going to even touch the PF... but after being sanded and polished, complete topside, new rubber, all new flippers+mechs... now it's getting OCD'd with LEDs too. I need this game out of here before I order more and more

My Pinbot was the same way so I pulled the pf, marked where the mirror blades were to go and sanded those 2 areas down one whole layer of wood and repainted. They fit perfect now and even have a nice gap between the pf and mirrors. Because the hinge bolts were in the sanded areas I had to put spacer washers on the outside of the cabinet between the cabinet and hinge. It sure made a mess and took quite a while but man the game sure looks sweet with the mirrors.

You're going hot metallic flake pink, aren't you? I'm thinking Barbie Glam Convertable retheme?

Seriously, can't wait to see what you've done.

Barbie.jpg

Something new to spend your money on in case you haven't sunk enough into your Getaway yet:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/%e2%9c%94-lighted-magnetic-hinge-covers-lighted-pinball-mods#post-4372270

Anybody take any pics of the Getaway that was at pintastic?

and don't forget mine. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-led-leg-light-ups/page/9#post-4474842

Might sell mine, it needs cabinet decals and the original beacon assy.
The one on it now is from a Safecracker.

Probably loose or flaky optos in the supercharger.

I’m in the middle of installing new flipper coils and can’t get the coil stop brackets to line back up. Could the new coil sleeves be a bit too long?

They don’t look different in length compared to the old ones, but I can’t get them mounted back in

1C2652F8-ECDA-4E28-B1CB-78C3875DD7A4 (resized).jpeg

359859F2-1B7F-4CA6-80A1-5CFD227F3807 (resized).jpeg

Your coil sleeve is in backwards. Edit, The coil is in backwards. Put the wires to the front.

Yes, maybe this helps...

right flipper coil (resized).jpg

upper flipper (resized).jpg

Yeah that’s it! Thanks everyone.

Been there... iv expoxied it in the past. Then replaced it later

Just to clarify, is this the part you are needing (out of stock at Marco's, but wanted to know what to hunt for)?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-15081

They are also out of stock for the entire assembly.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-15101

PSA - CPR has Getaway plastics in stock again...

Of course I had to add that to the project too... damnit! Now I gotta take the PF apart... again

Hopefully they make them orange this time, instead of the washed out color on the last run.

Of course they do, as soon as I piecemealed a quasi-decent set together with used plastics and novus.

They've been busy! They have about a dozen game plastic sets in stock now that have been out for 1-3 years! I'm sure the colors in the new Getaway sets are the same and as bad as the last run.

Thank god this step is over... (only took 2 tries!)

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IMG_4696 (resized).JPG

Maybe they’re better now that they’re using the digital printing?

Nice silkscreening work!

Actually, if you look at most of what they've produced in the last year or so, the quality AND quality control of their products has degraded tragically. I personally will never buy anything directly from them... Only from a 3rd party or vendor who has inspected the product (and offers refunds AND responds to email, phone calls, etc) in case there is a problem.

Post some pics of the LED color DMD if you don't mind - I prefer the LED version and would love to see how it'd look in Getaway. Thanks!

Congrats on getting your game to the finishing stages.

Unfortunately since I had to repaint the head after my failed stencil attempt... the head is off the game now and I told myself I wasn't going to re-attach it until the Powdercoat finally comes in... to avoid redoing it all.. again. So screen won't be up for awhile..

Now to finish sanding/polishing the MARS dome... wait for powder... and now install new plastics