Hmm. I’ve never noticed ghosting on any of my LED games (WCS94, Judge Dredd and Stern Star Trek) and Dredd even has a similar video mode called Pursuit with a car weaving around on a street with a dark background, so I don’t think you have anything to be worried about.

I have the LCD and love the smooth animations but people with the LED like theirs as much as I like the LCD. You can do dots with the LCD if you prefer but it's just not as bright. I go to a local arcade that has the LED version and it seemed really bright but I'm sure there are setting to tone it down, so I think either way it's a great mod. Good luck!

Mr. T again with coolest Getaway mods out there. I know there has to be a few square inches of real estate that he hasn’t covered with a sticker. . I’m looking.

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For example the metal forward attach point for the sc assembly on the right hand side of the plastic you posted in the pic.

I have LED on my Getaway and a couple LCDs on other games. I think the smooth modes on LCD look a little forced so I run them as dots.

Side by side I prefer the LED because its brighter and more retro with real dots. It does not ghost at all during video mode on the Getaway and IMO suits this game much better than LCD.

Also its a matter of taste blah blah blah.

Monochrome red LED really suits the game perfectly.

These are not my videos or my machine but here are 2 for the LCD from YouTube

LCD Smooth animations

LCD Dots

You can do that too, I assume you can with the LED too but I'm not sure, I don't own any LED displays.

I have the PIN2DMD, which allows you to do whatever you want: monochrome in any color or fully colored.
It's a bit of work to get to run, but well worth it and gives you all the flexibility you need.

Unfortunately there isn't a good answer on this as everyone's opinion is right. Meaning that what looks good to one person, doesn't look good to the next sometimes. I bought one of the first LED displays for my HS2. Having a couple LCD units already, I figured I would give it a try. I hated it. For me, the dots weren't big enough. But again, that is just my opinion.
I swapped it with a friend of mine, he loves the LED in his AFM. So we are both happy now.

I have an LED in my SS and LCDs in my other pins. I think my favorite is LCD with smoothing (only have done this on TWD) but love my LED in SS so I don't think there is a terrible choice whatever you decide.

I'm sure I'm not the first person to have the top-left outlane post break.
For anyone that has had to replace it, did you just use similar items found at a hardware-store? I couldn't find an actual part number for these.

Thanks in advance!!

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Part of the screw is broken on mine too. Hopefully someone chimes in with a source for parts

It's technically not a post, but only a metal sleeve on a screw. The screw was broken on my pf as well. It's cumbersome to fix because it needs to be drilled out of the pf. Otherwise the new one will be placed in the wrong place. As the outlines are tight, this is unfortunately rather critical for game play.

Got the Lambo car door projector light installed in my Getaway last night. Hard to see with a cell phone camera but it is bright in person.

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Love it!

Is it normal for the rear ramp to kind of “kip up” (when it’s already in the up position) when you shoot an orbit or launch a ball?

You mean the ball is hitting it?, nahh it shouldn't be. Is the ramp lifting up fully, perhaps something getting jammed in the mech?

I have had mine get confused before and it basically triggers the ramp up when it's already lifted. Particularly during the pre-ball search, where the first thing it checks is a lifted ramp before triggering all the other solenoids in case the ball is pinned under it.

Here was my ramp issue that may or may not address yours.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/94#post-3544810

If you lost or have a broken aluminum sleeve, Amazon or hobby stores sell foot long lengths of aluminum tubing. Cut it to the same size as the original. Amazon sells different sizes so measure the inside diameter of your sleeve to make sure you are buying the correct size.

If your screw is broken, and it is broken off above the playfield, i recommend getting a pair of Vampliers. They kick ass for gripping broken screws so you can twist them out. Check then out.

I feel like I might be missing something... aluminum sleeve? Please elaborate.

Ball isn’t hitting it, it clears, but it’s like it pops up a little extra. It doesn’t feel like it’s all the way up but it has clearance.

I’m replacing the switch but it seems like I might have another issue going on.

My post was not for the ramp question. It was regarding the left outlane question.

As for your rear ramp, I would not sweat it. You may want to check to see that the up/down switch is working correctly. The software is telling your ramp to go up, so it may not know that it is already up.

Hello fellow Getaway owners. I recently bought a HS2 and absolutely love it. It has a few issues that I am working on including dim lights and broken parts. Currently, when the Free Ride light is on and the ball drains a new ball kicks into the shooter lane but does not eject immediately (Have to wait for ball search). I tested the switch in the shooter lane and it works fine. Where do I start?

Had this happen too. With the playfield glass off, reproduce a drain with free ride lit and try to actually push the switch down in the shooter lane with your finger... i bet the solenoid and shooter rod fires. If it does, then just adjust your switch a bit, as the ball isn't depressing it enough.
Hope this helps

Ok. I ran the switch test from the menu. Switch activated with my finger but not the ball. Is the adjustment through the menu or at the switch itself? Newbie here. Learning pretty fast.

The switch itself... the switch arm pushes down on a tiny little button

Got it working again. Thank you.

JL Audio C2-525x installed. Definitely a noticeable improvement over the factory speakers.

I used a new speaker panel from Virtuapin. I was really impressed with the quality and attention to detail. It is identical, if not better, than the original.

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Do you own a PinSound? If not, only then will you truly realize the difference in sound with upgraded speakers (FYI, will need to rewire for stereo speaker setup as a DIY or with PinSound harness).

Not yet. It’s on the list for this year though. I plan on replacing the 6.5” speaker too. The only reason I replaced the speakers is because I had this set collecting dust in the garage.

I replaced my speakers first too (my originals were in bad shape with cab speaker cone busted). I rewired so that I could control the balance between backbox and cabinet. I know others will disagree, but if you have discretionary pinball bucks then for me the first major upgrade is PinSound. It truly makes the whole game play experience different. Along with that, with all of the orchestrations I've developed and posted on the PinSound community site for free download, you can always mix up your game sound experience (plus you can always create your own soundtrack).

Your upgrades look great!

FYI, although too late for this year, the best deal on PinSound is buying direct during TPF. Not only is there a show discount, but you also get to take it home with you that day.

It took me awhile to put up 285,000,000 points, and I was pumped to finally put my initials in as the high score

A 3 year old girl visited with her family this weekend and she somehow scored 300,000,000. That about sums up my level of skill, “Second to a 3 year old girl”

lol!

Sign her up for the tournament at TPF next year!

My rebuild slowly creeps towards looking like a pinball cabinet... this thing had been completely torn down... bottom included.

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I finally got back around to troubleshooting my opto/switch problems and have a question. Switch 84 and 85 look backwards to me in the manual and want to be sure I'm wired up right. The manual only labels 84, but I added 85. To me, 84 should be Enter Left Ramp and 85 should be Opto Made Loop. Can someone confirm with a switch test? Thanks.

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Is there a step by step process on how to diagnose a slow supercharger? The diverter is working fine and has no play in it. The optos seem to be registering.

I’ve done all I know how to do through the test modes. It requires 2 coils enabled to send a ball around. The speed with all 3 enabled is 130-140. I tried sending 3 balls into it this weekend and it failed miserably.

Should I try throwing new parts at it? Or checking voltages?

Check the pins on your accelerator board. Might need to be reflowed.

How can you tell if they need to be reflowed?

Look for cracks in the solder around the pins.

Agreed. That board was an issue with my game, had it rebuilt and I bought a new backup one from Homepin. Both work great and have my SC running in low 80's

You are correct, 84 is entering left ramp. And 85 is made loop

Just took a quick glance at it and the only things I noticed were a couple of black spots on a plug near some diodes. Of course I have no idea what I’m looking at.

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So a huge tree landed on my house during the Tornado this week right on top of my gameroom. Took forever to get everything out of there but I finally got the machine to my parents house that has power and was able to boot up LOTR with no problems at all. https://imgur.com/a/mPEtmSR

So then I cleaned the getway up, brought it inside and set it up and she wont boot. Checked all the fuses and the glass is broken on the 8amp fuse near coin door power supply. I replaced it when I got home today and still doesn't do anything, rest of the fuses look good but I am worried that it could have been a power surge before hand since the tree ripped the power from our house.

The 6 leds on the driver board are all lighting up but I am getting a solid red for d19 and d21 but d20 is never turning over. It looks like the game wants to boot with the dmd right when you turn it on but its just a microsecond and its gone, just making a wierd static noise when trying to boot.

Any help on where to start would be greatly appreciated this is the only valuable from my house I care about.

That black mark just looks like a dirt smudge or something. Burned pins and connectors usually look more browned. You’d need to remove the connectors and pull the board out to examine the pins.

Please move over....I've joined the club this week. I have to tell you that this game rocks. Even though I'm at page 55 of this thread, its quiet obvious that many other people think so as well....

Maurizio

Welcome to the club. What kind of shape is it in?

Have you tried new balls? My Getaway magnetizes balls after a while and they start to slow down in the supercharger.

It has brand new ninja chrome balls in it.
Could they be magnetized already?