Don't get Superbee wrong . . . we have our moments.

Lookin' good, my friend. I'm really liking your midnight edition Getaway.

Welcome all!

Definitely! SUPERBEE brings a great attitude to this thread. I wish there were more people just like him here on pinside.

Where did you get your decals from? Wondering how good the detail is. I have a set, not sure where from, but the detail isn't as good.

These are decals that have been on the shelf for years. Pretty sure they came from phoenixarcades back when he did pinball work.

Re: superbee - I’ve been lurking here all along it’s just I finally tackled the cabinet restoration on this game I’ve owned since 2010. This guy was taken all the way down to the bones...
Here’s a tease...
D0EB2161-4CEE-4F37-B2F1-09CF3A1F2917 (resized).jpeg

Well, I'm still waiting for my latest PinSound Getaway orchestration to be approved, but in the interim I have an appetizer. Here is a custom file that replaces the default PinSound boot up audio. This one is a Lamborghini Diablo starting and taking off - much more thematic to the pin. Just download the file and put it in the "audio" folder located under the root on your PinSound USB stick. Enjoy!

http://www.thezumwaltfamily.com/getawaypinball/PinSound/boot.wav

Darin does awesome work. I got a set of AFM decals from him a couple years back.

looks good!

Anyone in GErmany or Europe: In case you are looking for LEDs for the inserts, please contact me.

I am willing to trade my full playfield insert set of noflix plus for a set of no flix (withough the plus), because I have LEDOCD installed. LEDOCD profits from the "cheap" LEDs, wheres without LEDOCD the non-ghosting Noflix PLUS are the better choice better.
The deal I am offering is for you to buy the noflix set, send it to me and I send you my full noflix plus set.

We both win: I get better performance for free, you get a set of NoFlix PLUS for the price of NoFLix basic.

The NoFlix are available at http://www.pinball.center/

Ha-ha, I would say so from the looks of that pic! Good luck with the cabinet restoration

Getaway is in the house. Little trouble shooting after the move tomorrow...no sound and upper flipper not 100%. I'm sure just standard post-move kind of stuff. Can't wait to delve into this baby.

Sound working...wire popped off the cabinet sub. Flipper seems better. Looks like the right flipper switch is a two stage switch. I adjusted the leafs and seems better now. One of the leafs looked maybe stuck closed for the second stage. I'll see how this goes long term and adjust as necessary. Easy fixes. I need to hook this up to an external subwoofer like I do most of my pins. Wires are already there. Just need to do it.

Question though...my playfield will pull out only partially where it does not lock and cannot be lifted into vertical position without me continuing to hold it up. I'm guessing it has something to do with the spring loaded brackets but I've never run into this situation before and not sure how to approach this issue. Right now game is playing perfectly so it is not an emergency but obviously need to get it correct for future repairs.

By the way, this pin is sick. Everything on the playfield is chrome - ramps, habitrails, supercharger etc. Heck, even part of the frame for the backglass is chrome. Little video screen is cool. I like the additional flashers up top. My game room has a tongue and groove wood ceiling so might just keep the flashers pointed up (they swivel) and let the light reflect off the ceiling. Not sure on that. Will need to play test that one. There is a little cop car in back left of playfield. Looks like there are wires going to it. I'm guessing it lights up at certain times but I haven't noticed it yet. Only played a few games though so more testing is needed. Looks like I'll be doing a lot of "testing"!

Those playfield slide assembly issues have plagued many of the Getaway owners...

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3163

I know some have replaced them, I have not, but I have repaired mine. Maybe at some point I'll upgrade to new stronger ones but it's like you said it's not an emergency.

hinge upward (resized).jpg

Assuming you have all your pieces (brackets & springs), it is most likely in your technique as I went 2 years before I figured it out (probably not the same for all, but these rails have had issues). When you are sliding the playfield out, you can't just rest it on the supports. Rather, early on you need to lift the playfield higher to where the brackets are in the correct position and then pull out the playfield to engage them. Once locked you can freely rotate the playfield without having to support it. Get a friend/family member to help if you need to lift while you are looking at the mechanism to make sure it is properly aligned. After you do it successfully a couple of times, you'll remember the correct positioning.

With that said, others are correct in stating that these rails have had all kinds of issues. Personally, I think they went through different setups and materials at different points, and many have failed. If that is your case, then Marco's is your answer for buying new ones.

Yes, your cop car will light up. I think that is one of Mezalmods toys. Probably wired into the top lamp or something so that it comes on when the police lights do. You may want to go back and watch the original video you posted (might want to pay special attention to the top left at 0:48).

Once you have it locked in the vertical position, what’s the easiest way to unlock it and lay it back down?

The last time I attempted it solo the playfield dropped (fell) down once I unlocked it. It’s hard to push it up and get it off of the locks at the same time without dropping it. Am I doing it wrong? Or do I need new brackets?

Also check and make sure the cabinet posts that the hinges hook onto are tight. A lot of the time the hinges will not engage if the posts are loose.

You shouldnt have to do anything other than lower the playfield back down and into place and the hinges should do the rest on their own. If the playfield almost fell then they must have not engaged properly when you raised it. Check for loose cabinet bolts and then check to see if anything on the hinges are bent.

Not at home, and haven'd done it in awhile so I don't remember exactly. However, it is very safe, and no risk of dropping it. If I get a chance this afternoon, I'll try to do it again and explain more clearly if you still need it.

Quoted from VolunteerPin:
Question though...my playfield will pull out only partially where it does not lock and cannot be lifted into vertical position without me continuing to hold it up. I'm guessing it has something to do with the spring loaded brackets but I've never run into this situation before and not sure how to approach this issue. Right now game is playing perfectly so it is not an emergency but obviously need to get it correct for future repairs.
I replaced the slides on mine and it makes an amazing difference.
The playfield slides in and out almost effortlessly.

Ok so once it’s locked in the vertical position, there’s no need to reach inside and unlock it to lay it back down?

What is the yellow bar for? Haven’t figured that out yet

You should not have to unlock anything, the slides should function without you having to touch them, just slowly lower the PF once it's down slide it back into place.

The yellow coated brace I suppose is there if you don't want to elevate the PF fully or there incase the slides are trashed.

Like a car hood. Lift playfield straight up (do not slide out towards player), rotate yellow bar up and you’ll see a circle cutout under the playfield along the edge. Stick point if yellow bar in circle and now you have access to cabinet without rocking playfield full 90 degrees.

While we are on the topic, for you newbies ALWAYS remove all three pinballs before tilting playfield! Just rest playfield by pulling out and resting supports on lock bar, then use your hand to manually engage the ball eject mech. Also, TURN OFF THE PIN BEFORE LIFTING PLAYFILE OR EJECTING BALLS. I don't mention both of these as some know-it-all, rather, I've made both mistakes and both cost me damage and money fixing an easily avoidable self-induced problem.

I’ve owned plenty of older pins just never this issue. I’ll look more closely. I’m guessing maybe it is a technique thing as it was not mentioned before. Maybe also easier if new glides installed. I’ll update once I’ve had a chance to investigate.

Yep, watched the video again. Thanks for pointing that out.

I’m second guessing restoring my HS2. I have a repro playfield and a cpr plastic set that I’m considering trading toward a game instead.
Will trade for anything on my wishlist, and other games +/- cash

Okay, since many have been asking, I took the time to do an instructional video on how to lift the playfield. Video shows how to remove glass, use support bar for cabinet access, how to engage and use rail mechanism, and how to put it all back together. Hopefully this helps new Getaway owners avoid the struggles that I went through figuring this all out.

Also, please note that the way I lift my playfield seems to be the only way I can get mine to work. This is not the standard method. According to the Williams video I have watched (I can't seem to find it, but it was some lady making it look really easy) and the instruction of others in this forum that know far more about pinball than I ever will, you should only have to live the playfield a few inches, slide all the way back towards the player until you hear a click, and the latches will be engaged. I've not been successful in achieving this, so my video shows how I've gotten mine to work.
Also, I found this thread explaining how to lift the playfield: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-hsii-open-playfield-procedure
Regarding the support bar for partial opening, since posting the video I'm told that this method should be avoided due to the weight of the Getaway playfield. This uneven support could potentially cause playfield warping and surface cracking. Again, my video was intended to answer what that "yellow bar thingy" is used for. Theoretically, what I show is correct, but as a practical matter you should not support your Getaway playfield in this manner in order to avoid potential accidental damage to it.
Thanks for everyone's input on this, and I appreciate the knowledge.

Added over 6 years ago: Found this video with a Medieval Madness, but my Getaway does not work at this angle nor this easily.

Hey, there are a lot of great things about your Getaway, easy to overlook some of the small stuff. Did you see my posts regarding the previous owner and some options/updates I have for you if interested (PinSound, shifter knob, custom keychain, etc.)? Just PM me if you have any interest.

Might be interested in your plastics. PM me if you want to work a deal!

Yup, that's always the hang up, if it's a pin that's never leaving your collection than all of that makes sense. My EATPM is never leaving but I could not swing the new PF for personal reasons (mine is in above average condition) but I have the plastics and ramps. My Getaway is as far as I'll take it (14 years and counting) and I opted out on the PF because mine is in very good shape but I doubt that will leave my collection: However, my PZ will be on the block as there are 2 games I'm really watching but I'm still not 100% on NIB games. Good luck!

if they are bent and cracking... its hard to get them to dis-engage. Also if the springs are f'd up it will too. When working properly, just moving it front to back while lifted should free it. The replacement hinges are available at pinballlife and an easy upgrade. I bent my hinges years ago and its servicable, but I'm replacing them now

anyone have photos of getaway with black powdercoat handy? Considering black powder+black legs...

Progress continues...
Image uploaded from iOS.jpg

My right orbit shots get careened as it is exiting the orbit and ends up going to the right flipper. This seems like it is wrong but it is unclear what is actually causing the issue. Is this, indeed, wrong behavior?

I saw it but haven't really paid attention. I'll take a closer look soon. It looks like I have PinSound, knob, keychain already. Again, I'll take a closer look at your post this week. Thanks!

Nice video Chris, and while you're method will work, still not exactly "by the book". You're holding the front of the playfield WAY too high when trying to get it to latch, this is why you stumbled with it a bit in the video. Only lift to where the supports are about 1-2 inches above the lock-bar latch and pull toward you until you hear the latches lock, then push up toward the backbox.
Also, you should actually NEVER use the prop-bar with this particular game, Getaway has BY FAR one of the heaviest PF's in Williams history, which inspired the development and retrofitting of the slide/latch system... Leaving the PF supported on one side causes the PF wood to twist which can cause planking, insert lifting and diamond plate/clearcoat cracking... Especially if its left in that position for any length of time.

While some of the people I have blocked in this thread may start blasting me disagreeing (I wont know anyway, lol), I went to Williams tech certification school the same year that Getaway came out, and I got all this info directly from the engineers, as well as the info I shared a while back about the design and retrofitting of the first generation slides.

Looks like my latest PinSound Getaway orchestration just dropped and is available for download here:

http://pinsound-community.org/forum/index.php?/files/file/246-getawayhs2-v9_rockinstrumental_customcallouts_mrtantrum/

As a reminder, this one is all instrumental covers. Tried to keep the beat going using popular songs mostly from the period (but not exclusively). Here is the playlist:

Capture.PNG

From all the videos I have watched on how to correctly lift the playfield you are right in that I should not have to hold it that high, yet I absolutely cannot get it to work otherwise. Not sure what is going on but if I try the method you are outlining and what I've seen in the actual Williams training videos, the tips of the latches end up sliding under the posts and either don't catch at all or are bound up when I try to lift. I need to find someone locally (should have done it at TPF) and observe them as well as analyze their setup to see if mine is different somehow or if mine will actually work in the way shown and I'm just not getting it. Would love for someone to shoot an interior cabinet video of the mechanism while engaging so that I could see and compare in detail. Either way, I'm going to try again to see if I can actually get it to work using the "by the book" method.

Regarding the support bar, that is good insight and something I was not aware of. Common logic says it is there for a purpose (what I show is what others have shown me), but apparently experience and historical insight deems otherwise (I always appreciate your pinball wisdom). Not sure why they even left it there, but now I know better and what you say makes perfect sense.

BTW, just to be clear what I'm offering is to let you know that there are 9 other PinSound orchestrations I have created and shared with the community that you can download for free that will work with your PinSound (I'm happy to walk you through it and make it as simple as possible for you). The orchestration you are using was actually a precursor to any of the ones I did, and while some may disagree, I honestly think that most (if not all) of the ones I have created are superior in quality, have better voices, sound effects are more realistic to the car featured (early '90s Lambo Diablo), and offer more variety since I use different music, professionally recorded call-outs, etc. Just letting you know that you can enhance your sound experience even more than it is now, and add variety to your overall Getaway experience (you can switch back and forth to/from original game sounds if you like).

Regarding the keychain, that was one I sold to a previous owner but I don't remember if it had a generic DMD showing "Williams" or if I had the owners high score initials on it (I sold several personalized ones). Again, what I was offering is to make new inserts with your initials if you wanted and I'm happy to send them do you for free.

Finally, the LED shifter knob mod originally was too heavy and the previous owner had me hollow it out for him to lighten it. I think before he sold the pin he may have figured out a way to make the shifter respond better (return to center) by fixing something in the internal mechanism so you may be fine. I was still having an issue on my Getaway with the same exact mod, and a few months back I designed a much lighter 3D printed version. Not saying you need it, but if you find your shifter not naturally returning to the neutral position then the 3D printed plastic version might do the trick for you like it did for me.

Bottom line, I'm just excited for you and you have such a quality version of the Getaway I don't want you to miss out on anything that is available to you.

Now, regarding the orbit shot. I'm not sure that I understand exactly. Are you talking about hitting a shot with your left flipper counter-clockwise around the loop? I don't understand at what point this would careen at make it to the right flipper (like it gets to a certain spot in the loop and bounces back down it)? Can you please explain in more detail or post a video? Also, I've learned that correct leveling (front to back & left to right) plays a huge part in this game (probably most). I don't remember the exact settings (I'm sure others can provide off the top of their head here) but once I got mine dialed in and flippers aligned properly, everything seemed to just magically work.

Yes, if you shoot the right orbit, the ball should return to the left flipper. Left orbit should return to the right flipper

Phew... finally through the 'cabinet' rebuild phase! Decals came out pretty good I think. Now to populate this pig... and avoid the urge to splurge on new parts everywhere

IMG_4317 (resized).JPG
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The PF support bar is more of a carry-over from prior generations. By the time we got WPC, the playfields had gotten so heavy they really are a 'sucker bet' and really are more bad than good. They will cause the PF to sit uneven in the cabinet.. so you'll likely drag along the sides of the cabinet, and it can warp/twist/pop things on the PF in extreme cases. It's best to just ignore it and work with the PF in the upright position or on the lockbar position for games that support it. even in SS games, you are generally better off avoiding it. Before games like Getaway, PFs were only on sliders on the side, or a hinge to rotate (but not slide THEN rotate). Getaway's time period was when WMSs switched to the new slide/latch system we love so much. I think Addams was the last game without them? Someone can correct me there..

Like the other poster mentioned when you are going to rotate the PF... all you need to do is pull the PF out to the lock position. Once you hear it click, you can rotate right from there to the upright position. You should always be careful to make sure the locks don't release as you rotate, but that's just sanity incase the click you hear didn't actually stick.

You use the 45 degree angle when you are trying to defeat the slide latches when looking to remove the PF from the cabinet. By moving the PF forward, but not enough to latch, then tilt up to get it off the hinge pins.

What you guys are saying makes sense, but I'm not sure why I and others have such an impossible time getting it to work. I'm going to take a second look and see if I can figure it out. I've watched multiple videos where people show how to "properly" do it (always shot from outside the cabinet), but I swear it doesn't work for me. I would love to have someone shoot a video from inside the cabinet (stuff your wife or child in there) with the camera pointing at the mechanism so that I can actually see its position and how it engages throughout the process.

Is there anyone that is willing do make a video of this from inside the cab (I was only joking about the wife or kid - just put a light in there with your cell phone/action cam rolling)? It would be a tremendous help to the Getaway community!

Great video Chris!. The only thing like the Onlyest says is that you should only need to pull the playfield up a few inches and then pull out until it locks. Shouldnt need to lift that high. Awesome video though !

This is 100% true ! Even when you pull the playfield straight out, make sure you hear two solid clicks meaning that both latches have engaged. Sometimes you need to torque the playfield a little left and right to make sure. Then im still careful when i lift the playfield up to make sure that neither latches have disengaged . Its not the best system unfortunately but works as long as your careful.

Oh, and i do have brand new fully working hinges in mine so its not the hinges, its the design.

I have them on HSII and Jackbot and I've never had a problem, they work perfectly every time....knock on wood.

Which part do you have a hard time getting to stick? The latch clicking, or unclicking?

There are two pins on the side of the cabinet. The back one is higher.. and the rails actually slide on that pin. The other pin serves to push the latch mechanism open when the PF is in the right spots.

The latch or pivot arm is the long arm, arrow shaped up front and spring loaded to close

slide (resized).jpg

This is the 'latched position' where the spring has forced the rear of the pivoting arm to 'close' or block the slide.

When the playfield is near horizontal or the rest position.. that long arrow shaped arm rests on the front pin.. holding the slide 'open'.. and you can move the PF freely forward and back. The bracket slides along the rear pin screwed into the cabinet side. As soon as the playfield is pulled forward enough so the rear pin moves backwards far enough to clear the pivoting arm's edge AND the PF tilted to where the front arrow shape is no longer against the front pin... the spring snaps the pivoting arm to the closed position and you hear the 'click'.

The spring holds the arm in this position until the inverse happens. Lowering the PF causes the pivoting arm to contact the front pin.. pivoting the arm so the slide area is open again.. and the PF moves backwards slightly so the back pin is clear of the latch.

Normally what happens is these slides get so bent up.. that either the rear pin doesn't slide cleanly back far enough to clear the pivoting arm... or the spring on the pivoting arm is so messed up it doesn't force the pivoting piece to close properly. Worn pins on the cabinet also contribute to problems either sliding the PF, or letting the latch close properly.

Fixes are always
1 - check the springs on the hinge and make sure they are securely pulling the latch close.. and the pivoting arm moves freely
2 - check that the cabinet hinge isn't so deformed that it keeps itself from fitting all the way back in the slide
3 - check that the slide bracket itself isn't so deformed that the cabinet hinge pin can't move all the way back and clear the latch

On Getaway's original design, #3 was a problem as the brackets would split, bend, and deform.

When I first got my game, you couldn't even lift the PF due to the bent brackets and pin interaction jamming up. When in the locked position, the pin is very snug in the bracket.. so it rotates cleanly without slop. This tight fit is why some games struggle to latch.

If I had to guess... I bet your hinge pins are worn and deformed. They should be pure circles.. if not, replace or at least swap so the rear pin is the one in better shape.

Looks like the metal guide at the end of a right orbit shot must be protruding a little as even a slow roller gets pushed to the right a little as it comes off the guide. There is a star post right behind this area and it looks like maybe that is pushing the metal guide outward ever so slightly. I'll have to see if I can adjust that a little.

Update: the metal guide which has been chrome plated has a small "lip" right the the end of the ramp which you can feel with your hand. This is diverting the ball. I tried using a file to file it down but I'm not sure if that will end up working. I think it may not or if it did, it will take A LOT of filing. The star post behind there looks like part of a lighting mod possibly as there is an LED strip in that area and a small LED that is in both star posts on either side of the stand ups right there. I'm trying to decide if I should uninstall a bunch of stuff and try to get to that area or just leave as is. Just looking at it I don't think moving the guide slightly to the left is possible or even if it would solve the issue.

Right now right orbit shots go consistently to the right flipper and can usually be dead-bounced back over to the left flipper. Maybe that is not the biggest deal in the world.

Any thoughts?

Several good things here, and I'll try to work through your explanation maybe tonight if I get some time. A couple of quick hits:
- From previous efforts, I could never get it to "click" in. However, by my video if I lift the angle enough it clicks and works as intended. However, I haven't had a chance to test things since all of this new advice was presented.
- My hinge pins appear to be in perfect condition (i.e. they are indeed perfect cylinders). Had them off less than a year ago when I redid my cabinet graphics.

Okay, guess I'm just too stupid to make it work right. No matter what I do, I cannot get the rails to engage unless I do it like I show in my video. At this point, I don't know if I have rail issues or me issues. Giving up for now, as long as it works my way when I need it to I'll be okay. If I get some time in the future, I'll shoot a video inside to see if I can figure out what is going on.