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(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN


By MrSanRamon

6 years ago



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  • 10,866 posts
  • 427 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by kdunbar
  • Topic is favorited by 208 Pinsiders

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There are 10866 posts in this topic. You are on page 155 of 218.
#7701 2 years ago

Wow, thanks for taking all of the guesswork out of my list!

I’d definitely like to give Marco some business. We went to our first TPF this year and they were super nice folks. Gave my wife a great deal on a t shirt that she wanted.

What is the “tasteful LED mod”? Is it much different than just buying a kit?

If so, is there a list of the types and number of bulbs I need? If I’m cleaning the inserts, I’m going to go ahead and swap in LED’s at the same time.

One last question: what’s the consensus on using a virtuapin cabinet for a restoration? It seems like it would cut many hours of stripping, sanding, and bondo’ing of the old cabinet. Also you could have the new cabinet completed and then just swap in the guts, with minimal downtime and less chance on forgetting how things are installed.

#7702 2 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Looks awesome !!
Ive pretty much have mine fully restored now with the new playfield in. Photos coming soon !

Yes please!

#7703 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinless:

Wow, thanks for taking all of the guesswork out of my list!
I’d definitely like to give Marco some business. We went to our first TPF this year and they were super nice folks. Gave my wife a great deal on a t shirt that she wanted.
What is the “tasteful LED mod”? Is it much different than just buying a kit?
If so, is there a list of the types and number of bulbs I need? If I’m cleaning the inserts, I’m going to go ahead and swap in LED’s at the same time.
One last question: what’s the consensus on using a virtuapin cabinet for a restoration? It seems like it would cut many hours of stripping, sanding, and bondo’ing of the old cabinet. Also you could have the new cabinet completed and then just swap in the guts, with minimal downtime and less chance on forgetting how things are installed.

NP.

Do not buy a kit! It's probably cheaper to make a custom kit yourself. Tasteful is what you like but not over saturated colors, look for rainbow puke threads and you'll see.

Comet is my preferred bulb supplier, no ghosting for inserts. I like twin SMD else where but it depends, frosted or clear on the situation.

Use your original cabinet

#7704 2 years ago

Here's an example

All LED and most all frosted, there are Natural White (more blue/white better for cool colors) and Warm White (more yellow/white better for warm colors) frosted red, frosted yellow (frosted bulbs have a glow, less harsh or less intense than clear) but the 2 head lights are twin SMd clear faceted which gives it that star pattern

LED Back Box (resized).jpg

This is the result, prior to installing my backglass
Backglass old 2 (resized).jpg

#7705 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinless:

Wow, thanks for taking all of the guesswork out of my list!
I’d definitely like to give Marco some business. We went to our first TPF this year and they were super nice folks. Gave my wife a great deal on a t shirt that she wanted.
What is the “tasteful LED mod”? Is it much different than just buying a kit?
If so, is there a list of the types and number of bulbs I need? If I’m cleaning the inserts, I’m going to go ahead and swap in LED’s at the same time.
One last question: what’s the consensus on using a virtuapin cabinet for a restoration? It seems like it would cut many hours of stripping, sanding, and bondo’ing of the old cabinet. Also you could have the new cabinet completed and then just swap in the guts, with minimal downtime and less chance on forgetting how things are installed.

Quoted from tiltmonster:

NP.
Do not buy a kit! It's probably cheaper to make a custom kit yourself. Tasteful is what you like but not over saturated colors, look for rainbow puke threads and you'll see.
Comet is my preferred bulb supplier, no ghosting for inserts. I like twin SMD else where but it depends, frosted or clear on the situation.
Use your original cabinet

Absolute dittos on this. Do not buy a kit as it will cost you more and you may not like some of what they do. Way back in the thread somewhere (you can search) I did a full write up on mine. I've made a few changes since that time, but I should be a really good starting place for you.

#7706 2 years ago

Is a supercharger test time of 124-130 normal?

#7707 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinless:

Is a supercharger test time of 124-130 normal?

Very slow. 100ish is the goal. Its possible you have 1 out of the 3 supercharger coils not working. You can toggle them in the Test menu and figure out which then try and fix it.

#7708 2 years ago
Quoted from pkrobin:

Very slow. 100ish is the goal. Its possible you have 1 out of the 3 supercharger coils not working. You can toggle them in the Test menu and figure out which then try and fix it.

I just tried testing them individually and it seemed none of the would get the ball around the loop individually.

It would only complete the loop with 2 coils enabled. It didn’t matter which 2, and it definitely picked up speed when I kicked the 3rd coil on.

#7709 2 years ago

After seeing Jakusa's amazing restore it looks like he was able to get mirror blades in his Getaway. Anyone else had any success putting in mirror blades. My Getaway there appears to be no extra room at all to get them in.

#7710 2 years ago
Quoted from Kingpin22:

After seeing Jakusa's amazing restore it looks like he was able to get mirror blades in his Getaway. Anyone else had any success putting in mirror blades. My Getaway there appears to be no extra room at all to get them in.

Mine is the same way, tight as hell. My Jackbot was the same way so I pulled the pf and sanded one full layer of wood off where the blades go. Took a while and I had to shim the pf lock bolts with metal washers on the outside of the cabinet for the hinge pivots to take up the slack because that area of the cabinet was now thinner. I have the mirrors on and the pf comes no where near the mirrors.

#7711 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinless:

I just tried testing them individually and it seemed none of the would get the ball around the loop individually.
It would only complete the loop with 2 coils enabled. It didn’t matter which 2, and it definitely picked up speed when I kicked the 3rd coil on.

That is too slow, I know this is new for you so the 1st thing to try is to get brand new pinballs, see if that helps... I doubt it will drop too low but magnetized pinballs are slower in the SC

#7712 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinless:

The only thing I’ve noticed that doesn’t work properly is the VUK (?) that kicks the ball out of the lock. It doesn’t seem to force it out hard enough. Sometimes it will fall right back in the lock 2 or 3 times.
Either way I don’t like seeing it rigged up the way it is. I’d like to just start replacing anything and everything that isn’t right.

BTW, are you talking about the upper outhole? I'm not clear on the issue so please post pictures, both top side and below the playfield

#7713 2 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

That is too slow, I know this is new for you so the 1st thing to try is to get brand new pinballs, see if that helps... I doubt it will drop too low but magnetized pinballs are slower in the SC

I just swapped in new pinballs and ran the test and got 135. The driverter seems tight with no noticeable play.

I noticed when I ran the supercharger test I would see the #1 opto open every time , but #2 and #3 opto would only show open sporadically when the ball passed through. For example it might be only once in every 5 or 6 loops.

#7714 2 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

BTW, are you talking about the upper outhole? I'm not clear on the issue so please post pictures, both top side and below the playfield

Ok here you go-

28090CA9-8074-4D41-8D2F-3BB4CFD7386B (resized).jpeg

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#7715 2 years ago

Whoops, wrong coil

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#7716 2 years ago

Hard to tell what's going on with that kicker and the outhole but the switch arm coming through the plastic looks ok so I assume the switch is working fine. I can't see the end of the kicker arm in the top side photo. The arm may not be pushing the ball far enough or hard enough

Cliffy Close up (resized).jpg

Out Hole 2 (resized).jpg

Outhole underside (resized).jpg

Outhole underside 2 (resized).jpg

#7717 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinless:

I just swapped in new pinballs and ran the test and got 135. The driverter seems tight with no noticeable play.
I noticed when I ran the supercharger test I would see the #1 opto open every time , but #2 and #3 opto would only show open sporadically when the ball passed through. For example it might be only once in every 5 or 6 loops.

So it's slower with brand new pinballs?

Opto to test is easy...

Menu

Test

T1

Just break the light path of the opto to see if they register

opto switch #85 (resized).jpg

#7718 2 years ago

See if you can adjust this metal bracket. I believe it is sticking out a little on the left side. It should be parallel with the plastic above it. The ball may be hitting the edge and putting it back in the hole.

9A4D310E-7DE1-4256-B153-FB4A759C7AD2 (resized).jpeg

#7719 2 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

So it's slower with brand new pinballs?
Opto to test is easy...
Menu
Test
T1
Just break the light path of the opto to see if they register

Like this?

6055D34F-C94A-420C-83E0-0621EE67B8F1 (resized).jpeg

#7720 2 years ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

See if you can adjust this metal bracket. I believe it is sticking out a little on the left side. It should be parallel with the plastic above it. The ball may be hitting the edge and putting it back in the hole.

That definitely looks like it could be an issue but I don’t see any room for adjustment.

2CCF4753-8CDF-403D-A776-C8BD2CBD3243 (resized).jpeg

#7721 2 years ago

Right idea wrong test menu, test all 4 optos (the one you're doing, 2 in between magnets in the back and the entrance opto in the very from on the ramp behind the SC sign)

Test

T1 Switch edges

Quoted from Pinless:

That definitely looks like it could be an issue but I don’t see any room for adjustment.

You may need to take that bracket off and bend it back in shape

#7722 2 years ago

Put a ball in there with the game on and it should try to kick it out. You might be able to see what’s going on

#7723 2 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

Right idea wrong test menu, test all 4 optos (the one you're doing, 2 in between magnets in the back and the entrance opto in the very from on the ramp behind the SC sign)
Test
T1 Switch edges

You need to take that bracket off and bend it back in shape

Ok I took the supercharger cover off and tested all 3 optos in the “test switch” mode and they opened and closed just fine. The other 2 optos for the entrance and loop made tested fine as well.

#7724 2 years ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

Put a ball in there with the game on and it should try to kick it out. You might be able to see what’s going on

that's a good idea, especially now that everything is out of the way

#7725 2 years ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

Put a ball in there with the game on and it should try to kick it out. You might be able to see what’s going on

I did that a few times and it seemed to work fine. Of course when I put it all back together it will start doing it again

#7726 2 years ago
Quoted from Kingpin22:

After seeing Jakusa's amazing restore it looks like he was able to get mirror blades in his Getaway. Anyone else had any success putting in mirror blades. My Getaway there appears to be no extra room at all to get them in.

No way I could get real ones in mine w/o scratching terribly. I did buy some mirror vinyl that I might try sometime when I get tired of my themed DIY ones that I made.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin?tq=blades&tu=mr_tantrum#postbox

#7727 2 years ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

See if you can adjust this metal bracket. I believe it is sticking out a little on the left side. It should be parallel with the plastic above it. The ball may be hitting the edge and putting it back in the hole.

Can someone post a similar view of their bracket location?

#7728 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinless:

Can someone post a similar view of their bracket location?

I thought I had one but I don't, I looked and mine is a real pain to get to at this point, sorry.

#7729 2 years ago

Try bending the bracket upwards a little. The top of it may just be a little bit low causing the ball to hit it and bounce back into the hole.

#7730 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinless:

Ok I took the supercharger cover off and tested all 3 optos in the “test switch” mode and they opened and closed just fine. The other 2 optos for the entrance and loop made tested fine as well.

I know you said you tested your SC magnets 1 at a time and it wasn't strong enough to make the loop but try it this way, it should make the loop with just any of the 1 active

SC test (resized).jpg

#7731 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I did buy some mirror vinyl that I might try sometime when I get tired of my themed DIY ones that I made.

Ive used that type of vinyl in many applications over the years at work and unless the surface you are applying it to is super smooth it usually doesnt look all that great.

#7732 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinless:

I noticed when I ran the supercharger test I would see the #1 opto open every time , but #2 and #3 opto would only show open sporadically when the ball passed through. For example it might be only once in every 5 or 6 loops.

This by itself may or may not be an issue. To some extent i see the same thing with mine but i get much better speeds so you might try just cleaning the optos in case they are dirty and maybe not registering consistently when the ball is moving quickly. Mine didn't look dirty but cleaning them still made a slight difference i think. The speeds you have are about what i get if i disable one SC coil but you already have proven all 3 of your coils work at least to an extent.

You can do this with air or sometimes a q-tip and alcohol may be required.

Also, i did have a problem at one point after waxing everything with the ball slightly hitting the plastic covering the hairpin turn on the left and being slowed. Make sure yours isn't.

#7733 2 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

I know you said you tested your SC magnets 1 at a time and it wasn't strong enough to make the loop but try it this way, it should make the loop with just any of the 1 active

Just tried it that way and the only magnet strong enough to make it around the loop is #1. I don’t think any of them give the ball enough momentum to get it past the first magnet once it makes the loop.

So if magnet #2 is on it will kick the ball around and make it just barely inside the supercharger housing and then the ball falls back down the ramp. Same happens with #3.

#7734 2 years ago

Aussie model traffic light in and running!

20180415_153114_resized (resized).jpg

#7735 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinless:

Just tried it that way and the only magnet strong enough to make it around the loop is #1. I don’t think any of them give the ball enough momentum to get it past the first magnet once it makes the loop.
So if magnet #2 is on it will kick the ball around and make it just barely inside the supercharger housing and then the ball falls back down the ramp. Same happens with #3.

Did say that all of the opto were working correctly?

#7736 2 years ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

Aussie model traffic light in and running!

Oi, Oi, Oi!

Hey, can you detail your lens mod on the supercharger?

#7737 2 years ago

PINSOUND ALERT - As if I don't beat everyone over the head enough with my PinSound fervor. Anyway, inspired by an instrumental track that the Onlyest pointed out not so long ago, I'm working on a new orchestration.\

This one will be all instrumental cover versions of recognizable rock songs. I think that a good non-vocal orchestration would be upbeat and fun to play along to. I have most everything planned to get started, but for those who are curious, here are some examples of the music I will be using (FYI - I Can't Drive 55 will be the primary theme track):

- I Can't Drive 55:


- Personal Jesus:

- Hold on Loosely:

- She Sells Sanctuary:

- Several others

#7738 2 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

Did say that all of the opto were working correctly?

Yes it appears they are working.

#7739 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinless:

Yes it appears they are working.

Ok, so if you run the SC test with 1 and 2 or 1 and 3 do you see an improvement in ball speed vs just 1? I'm wondering if magnets 2 and 3 aren't working (several possibilities).

#7740 2 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

Did say that all of the opto were working correctly?

Yes it appears they are working.

#7741 2 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

Ok, so if you run the SC test with 1 and 2 or 1 and 3 do you see an improvement in ball speed vs just 1? I'm wondering if magnets 2 and 3 aren't working (several possibilities).

2 magnet speed, no shatter which 2, all appear the same. It’s either slow (2 magnets), or ok (3 magnets).

#7742 2 years ago

I doubt this has to do with a slow supercharger, but I just installed my Kahr pro daughter board.

I get a solid red LED and a blinking green LED meaning my 5v supply went both above and below 5v.

It seems to play fine except for the slowish supercharger. Should I and try to troubleshoot the 5v? Or not waste my time until I see a playability issue?

#7743 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinless:

I doubt this has to do with a slow supercharger, but I just installed my Kahr pro daughter board.
I get a solid red LED and a blinking green LED meaning my 5v supply went both above and below 5v.
It seems to play fine except for the slowish supercharger. Should I and try to troubleshoot the 5v? Or not waste my time until I see a playability issue?

I'm not familiar with that product but I thought that was used to prevent random resets; were you having reset issues too?

#7744 2 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

I'm not familiar with that product but I thought that was used to prevent random resets; were you having reset issues too?

I did have a reset issue on day 1, but I fixed it after I found a loose mounting screw on the power driver board.

The kahr board monitors the 5v power supply which is usually the culprit causing resets. It also takes load off of the 5v by powering the MPU using the 12v supply.

#7745 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinless:

I did have a reset issue on day 1, but I fixed it after I found a loose mounting screw on the power driver board

That's a good catch by you and often over looked as a potential issue causing resets. My reset issue was caused by a faulty thermistor which I replaced undoing the reimport hack.

I think you could have some tracing to do to figure out some of these issues, my gut on the SC is the accelerator board under the playfield (this was my issue with my SC) but there are other potential causes.

Quoted from Pinless:

I get a solid red LED and a blinking green LED meaning my 5v supply went both above and below 5v.
It seems to play fine except for the slowish supercharger. Should I and try to troubleshoot the 5v? Or not waste my time until I see a playability issue?

I'm not sure how deeply you want to dive into this, my knowledge is limited in comparison to many on Pinside but it also depends on your experience and comfort level. Many years ago I sent my accelerator board out for repair to Clive at Coin Op Cauldron (great guy super knowledgeable) it resolved my issues but I'm not sure how I got to that point. Probably just dumb luck because that was about 13 years ago when I was fairly new to the hobby. This could be the case for you as well but if it's not it's a waste of time and money (if the board isn't the issue) plus your game will be down until you get the board back. It would be best to figure out what's causing your issues and then decide if you feel comfortable doing the repairs yourself or pay someone to repair the machine (there is nothing wrong with paying an expert or tech to fix your pin, it may help you learn more).

If your going to own a machine you'll need to be able to do certain fixes yourself because the machine will breakdown at some point. These are usually easy fixes, at times some tricky and frustrating ones, but you will have to get familiar with your pin. Start with the little things soon you'll be able to work up to the bigger issues but do not bite off more than you can chew because there is the potential to make things worse...

#7746 2 years ago

Any tips on bulletproofing the up/down ramp? When i got the game it had a ramp error, and was doing the thing where it just goes up and down over and over... so I fiddled with it, and got it working (yas!) but last night it came back. Works pretty much spot on in test. Went in, bent the switch actuator down a bit, seems fine again? My first instinct is replace the micro switch of course, but I’ll be damned if it doesn’t seem 100%... any thoughts?

#7747 2 years ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

Aussie model traffic light in and running!

That looks great!

What the heck is with the giant yellow traffic light anyways? I’ve never seen one that looks like that.

#7748 2 years ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Any tips on bulletproofing the up/down ramp? When i got the game it had a ramp error, and was doing the thing where it just goes up and down over and over... so I fiddled with it, and got it working (yas!) but last night it came back. Works pretty much spot on in test. Went in, bent the switch actuator down a bit, seems fine again? My first instinct is replace the micro switch of course, but I’ll be damned if it doesn’t seem 100%... any thoughts?

Mine has always done this as well. Even now after a fundamental restoration with everything as it should be, this is still present. Are we sure this is not a software bug?

#7749 2 years ago

Okay, just posted my latest (9th) Getaway PinSound orchestration to the community (awaiting approval before it is available for download). Again, all instrumental cover songs on this one.

http://pinsound-community.org/forum/index.php?/files/category/22-getaway

Capture.PNG

#7750 2 years ago

Tantrum thanks for doing all these pinsound mixes. I have started using one of yours a base for my oi oi oi version

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