Thanks guys

Brand new assembly. something is a little off.

15194291242921342515778 (resized).jpg

Idk, it looks sparkling clean, if you don't like the "after market" face plate you can get a new decal

Where did you find that?

Those are not supposed to be there, my guess is the hook and spring were hacked to keep the shifter from falling down

Buttons, spring should be inside

Leaf switch normal for the pin but you need a double switch on the right side for the upper and lower flipper

leaf switch (resized).jpg

Where the hell did you get that ? Been pretty much unobtanium till now !

Shifter looks to be available here . . .

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-15419

You can use either. It will just have a little different feel to the flipper. I prefer not having a spring in the flipper buttons. If you buy ones with a spring, you can always pop them out if you don’t like the feel.

To me... High / Low seem to be in wrong locations

Yep, its supposed to look like this...1257-1764-thickbox (resized).jpg

i would replace the decal on yours with this...
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CA-22A

What kind of resets? Does it happen during game play? When you use a flipper? Resets can be caused by lots of issues.. some small and easy to fix while others are more complex.

This link may help

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

It walks you through all the possibilities, wpc grounds connections, line voltage and 5vdc...

I replaced the thermistor and it fixed my issue, all other options tested fine or were not the cause. I did not have to replace the BR2 and C5 as my driver board is fairly new but it could be a cause of resets too. Having said that, replacing the thermistor is a major fix

Sounds to me like you are losing your settings. Are your batteries on the board or off the board ? If they are on the board, i recommend at least installing a remote battery holder. If they are off the board already then check the wirs going to the board to make sure they are properly soldered on and then check the board itself for any issues if all else fails.

Sorry, maybe I didn't understand completely; so is it setting resets or game resets?

yeah I bought this from Marco spec. the thing is in the picture on the website shows the original shifter with faceplate. because what I was going to do was put the 6 dollar decal on the faceplate. but then I was like the shifter has zero tension on it. it wont return to the center like it suppose to. setting a credit dot. so i coughed up the 90 bucks for the assembly. after I had it for a couple days im kinda digging it. black and red. I think I'm going to mount it in and see how it looks. ill take a picture.

When turned on, sometimes it will alert that its been reset to factory defaults. Its also on L-1 rom.

Any mountain mods out there for sale?

Does anybody know how this mod was done?

You have an issue with your battery holder... Period. Either you're using crappy cheapo batteries, you have a bad solder joint or you have buildup or corrosion from battery acid on the battery contact(s) themselves or the leads that solder to the board, or possibly all the above. You need to remove the board, desolder the battery holder and investigate thoroughly.

Just something I made for my game.

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wpc/index3.htm

Follow the steps in section...

3. When Things Don't Work:

m."Factory Settings Restored" error (Battery Problems)

I think the question is "can you please show/teach me to make the same thing for my game?" If the answer is "I already have", then can you post the link?

Thanks, and I hope all is well in Grumpy land!

I’ve got a Cirsa version of Getaway. The only two things I’ve noticed that are different is a Cirsa logo in the top right of the translite and covering up the W logo on the center of the apron. Translites in pretty good condition. Worth it to get the mirrored cpr backglass?

Seems like the apron Getaway decals are sold out, anyone have a spare?

I could if there was any interest, I was thinking of selling a kit, but haven't worked out all the bugs for easy installation. I like to keep things 100% reversible. Just haven't had the time to finish the little details.

If you make it... we will buy it....

I have it on my pin and I really like it so I would say some people like the backglass and others do not. I posted some photos a while back of the backglass vs the translite so you could see the difference

page 144 post #7184

I have the new backglasses on mine and I really like it.

Capitalist pig!

Please educate me, what is a "Cirsa version of Getaway"?

What I would say to this is that just about everyone who has posted that actually bought one loves it, but there are several negative opinions from those who have not bought it and have only seen photos. May be one of those things where 1) photos just don't do it justice but the real experience is great and/or 2) those who have spent $$$ are predispositioned to not dislike it. Personally, I don't have one and my translate is in good condition. If I did need a new one, I would trust the opinions of my fellow Getaway owners that own the backglass, and buy one for myself.

Any of you regulars going to be at TPF this year? Me and my son will be there on Saturday.

I take it your not interested then. One less thing....

Well, I could be talked into beta testing in exchange for a free kit (might even write-up a positive review if you grease my palm a little).

Just hope the PPS Nazis don't threaten to sue you for selling something that enhances a pinball machine without their express written permission and healthy cut that they weren't creative enough to think up on their own. Am I ranting again? Sorry, I really must control myself.

I can only speak for myself but if I didn't like it I would tell you, even if I bought and own it... I would put my original translite back on the pin because it is in good shape.

The colors are much richer than the translate and match my scheme better with the ColorDMD and Deluxe Light Up Panel.

The mirroring is nice but more noticeable when turned off, still a very nice touch.

Some people who bought it were disappointed that the images weren't high res enough and that's the issue I heard as to why they didn't like the BG.

I think I read that some Bin-bots were like this, Williams supplied some kits to a Spanish company who built them with some of their own parts which included backglass... or something like that

It looks like it was produced by Williams but has a Cirsa logo on the top right of the translite (could be just an addon sticker, havent checked.) And the W logo on the apron has a Cirsa logo as well.

I bought the CPR EATPM glass and did not like it. The colors look fine when the machine is on, but, compared to the translight, they're washed out when the machine is off. The EATPM glass is in a box and my original translight is installed.

I bought the CPR Getaway glass and I DO like it. The colors look much richer than the original translight when the machine is off. It looks good when the machine is on too. I have the Getaway backglass installed.

Hi all.
Well into my restore now. Has anyone ever blacked out or swapped out the yellow traffic light at all? Can't find any pics anywhere.
Also anyone done their own building mod for the donut heaven ball lock area? The donut heaven one isn't doing it for me but it needs something there!
Thanks all.

I swapped out my traffic light for the one from a Harley Davidson pin, pics on Page 28 (post #1388) of this thread. There is someone who was selling black out panels for the inside of the regular traffic light also, not sure who it was now or which page it was on sorry.

There have been several decals made of the Donut Heaven, I'm sure you could find one that you like, I know I did...

I've been having an annoying issue lately with the ball getting stuck on the upper left of the playfield behind the second wire roll over switch. Has anyone else had this problem? It's gotten quite annoying...I'm thinking about bending the wire to try and help, but I'm a bit hesitant to do so before asking around.

I've attached a picture...not the greatest, but it's a switch underneath the super charger which makes it exceedingly annoying to get to. I've resorted to mostly cranking down my sensitivity on the tilt sensor so I can hip check the machine to get it loose, but it's happening a bit too often.

45 (resized).jpg

I've never had an issue with this but on my Elvira one of the switch arms popped up and would get stuck on the playfield causing the ball to stop and not register the switch, just a small adjustment got it back to normal.

There was a guy that made laser cut plastic blackouts who probably still has some. Also, I designed some templates for printing yourself that work really well.

http://thezumwaltfamily.com/getawaypinball

I had thought about buying one of those as well, but decided to paint my light black on the inside with liquid plastic in stead. Does just the same. No need to spend USD 25.

Great thanks all. Any pics of a blacked standard out one or even blacked out supercharger anyone?

The guy who was selling the blacked out light mod posted pictures of it before and after but basically it just stops the light bleed coming trough the yellow.

Onlyest is the only one that I saw who blacked out his supercharger, he posted a pic of it here too but it was a long time ago

So... what's your plans for that EATPM backglass? I may be willing to take it off your hands

What coils are being used on your main flippers ? 11629 or 11630 ?

I have FL11629 for both main flippers and FL11630 for the upper flipper

Thanks chubtoad . So weird that my manual calls for 30s for all 3 flippers. Anyone else ?

My manual has 29's for the lower and a 30 for the upper.....
Wonder why there would be differences in manuals?