Dan doesn't have one?

Not sure how hard it would be for me to reproduce the artwork (probably within my ability), but I don't have tools/tech to cut the plastic (especially the holes), and would have to outsource the printing. Also, probably risk a nice cease and desist notice from our little friend at PPS.

Well, I've piled all of the proceeds from my various pinball related stuff sales I've had and put it down on one of the basic light up speaker panels (thanks to everyone who has contribution to my fund). From the day I bought this pin (my first and only thus far), I thought that the gauges needed to be lit somehow. I know there are some DIYs out there, but for whatever reason I never wanted to take it on. I think this relatively turnkey solution will be what I need, and really looking forward to it. Since I will be using my current panel, my plan is to just cut out black backing on all gauges/buttons to see how that looks. I know that some completely remove the black backing to light the entire panel, but I figure if I do that first it will be difficult to go back.

Anyway, not sure how long it will take to get here, but I'll post pics of the work and results for those of you who are considering this mod.

Here's what the panel from Dan looks like. Well worth the $99 if you ask me.

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Wish I had a Getaway. I'd be all over this mod. Very well done.

Hi guys.
I'm joining the club.
Yesterday, after 5 days of debugging, I finally made my supercharger work.

Regards

Hey Paul, what's the deal on this panel? Owner provides own lighting for the gauges?

Welcome to the club, nice work.

Oops. Looks like this is what you meant.... Thanks

That's the panel from Dan, he sells the light panel too, if you use your stock panel all the printing lights up.

Hi guys.
A simple question.
I've seen that when left flipper button is pressed before launching a ball, the game will 'rev the engine'.
I have L1 ROM and I cant do that.
That feature is in a newer ROM?. Or I missing something?.

Regards

I have the L2 room in mine and it does rev. Not sure if the others are supposed too or not. I'm sure some others will chime in.

bbriese - Love this mod.... a couple questions...

Can you show a pic of how you modified the Molex connector? I would have just used a standard solderless splice, but I'm sure plugging in directly to molex would be cleaner.

Next you say you used comet matrix plugs... what is this for? why not just connect the LED strips directly to the converter (or am I missing something here). Again, would love to see pics!

As soon as those items come in I'm doing this mod.

Welcome to the club - and repairing the SC is a right of passage on this pin! If you haven't done so already, this entire thread is must read. Bite a little off before you go to bead every night, and you will learn all kinds of stuff about Getaway in no time. The group here is incredibly friendly, and comfortable to the point were we don't mind jabbing each other now and then, so don't be afraid to ask what's on your mind. Enjoy the pin, and congrats!

Welcome! As I recall my original L1 Rom had the rev sound but I'm running L2 now

You should run a Supercharger test and a time test to see if all of your magnets are working and what tweaks need to be done (optos working). I just bought a new accelerator board, my old one was rebuilt and running really well but I wanted a backup while I could still grab one. Tested and running at 83

Accelerator Board 2 (resized).jpg

whose board did you purchase ?

Should be working for you. I have L-1 installed and can rev from either flipper when the ball is in the trough ready to go.

Debatable! Not referring to you of course, but there are a few regulars in here that I have blocked because they are total douchers. At least I assume they're all still regulars, I obviously don't see any of their posts, and i've had them blocked for probably close to 2 years...

It's Homepin that made the board

thanks man

Where did your purchase the board? Home pin site sends you to pinball life ... I don't see the board listed there. Thanks

Oh sorry, I got it on ebay, $100 shipped to the USA from Australia. Its a little pricey but these were hard to get in the past and I think it's worth the cost.

These (along with our entire range of replacement boards) will be stocked very soon by Nitro in Canada.

Until then, Pinball Life in the USA.

She didn't have any in stock but it's good to know there will be another source for the boards. Excellent work on this board, top notch stuff and for the record my 83 speed test is slightly faster than your posted tested 85 speed on the board (I assume each board is tested and rated for speed).

Thanks, and yes, we test each board in our Getaway in the factory and record the speed attained in the test with each board.

Awesome news !

Every family has its quarrels, but I would say we all get along the vast majority of the time. Things can get intense, but at least in my experience here they have never gotten personal (can't speak for you or anyone else, of course). Overall, however, the good in this thread exceedingly outweighs the negative. When I was a fresh noob to Pinball, I found this thread incredibly informative and supportive. Now that I've been in it for nearly a couple of years, I don't mind the occasional scolding when I should know better

Hmm, so obviously several elements when it comes to obtaining supercharger speed. From what I can think of with my limited knowledge: driver board (I assume this controls voltages and other important elements), magnet strength, opto performance, ball magnetization, cleanliness of loop, etc.

Just makes me curious as to what level of impact the driver board plays in comparison to the other factors. In other words, at what point is it worth changing it out? The faster the balls fly around the loop the cooler it seems, but is there a point at which the timing of the gate is disrupted, or is all of this programmatically tied together regardless of ball speed?

On a side note, I made the mistake once of waxing the inside of my loop and this actually hurt my performance (I figured that slicker would be better). I'm assuming because the ball was sliding across the surface instead of rolling. From that point, I now just keep everything nice and clean with a degreaser.

Thanks for the welcome guys.
I fixed my SC, I needed to replace all the coils connectors and a power transistor.
Everything is working now, but I cant lower the supercharger test time. I'm getting a constant 180/160. I will try with new balls to see if the problem are magentized balls.
I rechecked all the board, and is working fine. Every magnet firing when the opto crossed.
So I dont know if I can tweek the board to get it better.
I dont really want to buy a new board just for this.

Regars to all

If you enable them one at a time in the SC test you'll get an idea of how they are working, make sure all optos are clean and operational (switch test is the easiest way). I don't recall what my issue was when I sent the accelerator board out for repair but I think opto and slow times were the reason. I have the original board running well and now this new one, both work great.

Magnetized balls can cause an issue, for instance, I was running 109 before I switched out to new balls and it's back to 83-85, with a 160 or 180, I would think there are other issues.

Start with the simple things, ball hitting diverter flap, ball hitting plastic, opto not working, (you mentioned before magnetized balls)....

Optos are working fine, in switch test and SC test.
I will check the diverter and see if the ball is hitting something.

Thanks

The irony of this post. lol.

I was afraid this day would come... I saw your post recently about finally finding a decent Getaway... And all this time, I thought we were cool.

We're cool man. Now that I do have my Getaway!

I was flattered today when I came across these VP videos on YouTube. One used one of my customer PinSound orchestrations (professional voice files courtesy of Mike_M) and the other used it as a foundation but with 70's music. Also, both are using my Donut Heaven ball capture cover design.

Do these pics help

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Absolutely.... thanks... looking forward to trying this out.

Set with a standard 3 ball game! Got 3 red line manias in the process. Then I ran upstairs and posted it here, lol.

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Nice work red-line !

Well done.

Just joined the club!! Excited to play but my backbox was removed and I have to play "connect the wires"

Can someone please post some high res images of inside the backbox focusing on where jumpers are plugged in?

Thanks!!

Welcome! Try these... good luck!

inside backbox 2 (resized).jpg

inside backbox (resized).jpg

Welcome to the club. See where you can get with what you have from Tiltmonster & others, then post pics of unknowns and I'd be happy to take some hi-res close-ups for you.

Welcome to the club.

ITS ALIVE!!!!!! Thank you so much for the pics!!

Man this game is freaking fun!!!!

Pulled the mylar the playfield is PERFECT!!!!!

Came right off with slow consistent pulling, cleaned and waxed it and while buffing found a couple tiny glue spots but the glue ate the wax and wiped off effortlessly!!!!!!!

Sooooo badddddd

Awesome, enjoy!

I didn't think that the getaway ever came mylared. Must have been an after thought.

ARE YOU LUCKY!! Must not have been factory mylar. The factory mylar on a BOP pf I have pulled right up too but left all the glue on.