Yes, as it should be before any tournament or match.

Yes, I was into BMX but that is a bike my 2 boys and I built from all old school original parts from the late 70's early 80's. Finding some of that stuff was tough but it's a great build.

Thanks!

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As we all know bikes are so much easier to build and repair than pinball machines... my Getaway was rock solid for 14 years and now I'm having some really odd issues that are diving me crazy. I may put up a thread or post about my issues but I'm at a point where I need to step back and think this through a bit more.

In league or tournament play, I don't see a problem with purposefully draining to increase your score. At home - never. If you do it and set a high score, you're kind of forcing yourself to do it in the future if you want to hit the leader board. I don't want to have to wait 10 seconds and watch 3 balls go by before I start playing every time.

Hi all. Chasing a new full set of plastics - can't find any stockists anyone help?
Cheers

The sets are gone. I think I got one of the last from RTBB. None there anymore either. BUT: For individual plastics you can checke here - most of it is on stock:
http://www.pinball.center/de/search?sSearch=getaway+plastic

If your set is complete and not terribly scratched or yellowed you can restore them. Happy to describe process I followed.

Yes please do!
I'm familiar with flame polishing but it doesn't get rid of the yellowing.

It doesnt but there is a procedure to remove the yellowing somewhat using peroxide and sunlight but im not sure if you can use it on screened plastics.

Well, I did not have yellowing issues, just really dull and all bent/wavy.

Before flattening as outlined below, I thoroughly cleaned both sides using Novus 1. I then polished the tops only using Novus 2 and a polisher wheel that fits my drill (low-medium speed so as not to melt the plastic). I then used Novus 1 again to clean buffing residue and the result was a very nice, clean, shiny finish. FYI, I did all this on a workbench with the plastics sitting on a towel so I would not scratch the bottoms during the process. Also,I first tried buffing by hand before using my chordless drill which lead to no noticible improvement.

Then off to flattening everything: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/85#post-3476073

FYI, found this thread about yellowing plastics.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/say-goodbye-to-old-yellowed-plastics

Wanted to ask you guys who bought the light up speaker panel what your thoughts are on it after having it for awhile. I'm interested in the basic white version that utilizes the existing panel. Specific questions include . . .

- How easy was installation? For now, I use a red plastic filter to color the orange DMD, would I still be able to do this?
- I currently already have speak lighting, do you think I could still incorporate?
- How is it powered, and does it automatically turn on and off when the power switch is flipped?
- Any other input?

Im interested also .

My playfield finally arrived today, so beautiful.

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Gorgeous! Keep us posted with pics on the swap.

It will be awhile, getting a new cabinet built as well.

Hmm, if you need to store it somewhere for awhile, I know a place in Fort Worth, TX. I would take such good care of it, and even keep it under glass.

chirp, chirp, chrip (sound of crickets) . . . anybody?

Seems like it would cause an awful lot of glare

I don't know if I can help you as I have the complete version. It is all one big assembly, but I love how it lights up the speakers and the entire panel.

Well, I would value your input on installation, how its powered (on/off), build quality, etc.

Been out of town on business, so I wasn't able to get back to you on this...

Installation is fairly easy but I had issue with how the panel was held in place and had to tweak the brackets. The power comes from your service box and if you do not have an AC outlet there then it won't work. I do not use the color speaker lights because to me none of the colors look good (the red is not a matching red) but I really like how the panel looks and the build is solid. There may be some light bleeding through the black but it's not a big deal, look closely at some of the pics I posted.

Also, the online directions are good but you may have to modify some of the install based on how it fits your machine. I used electrical tape to help secure the backglass channel in place and a few other tweaks here and there...

EDIT: you could plug the panel in externally but then you would have to manually turn it on and off or you could install a service outlet in the box but this would done at your own risk and depend on your level of experience...

It is turned on and off with a relay, gets its power from the service outlet, but will not turn on till the game is on because of the relay.

Great and helpful feedback guys, thank you. I do have a service outlet so that will not be an issue. Sounds funny, but I didn't want to have to turn it on and off manually (I'm lazy like that).

After having my Pinsound for about 10 months, I finally felt secure enough to let me original sound card go. Now I have a little coin burning a hole in my pocked to spend on my Getaway, so thought the lighted speaker panel might be the best gizmo to buy.

Pinstadium lights are cool, but I don't need them with how I've lit my playfield and extra lights I've added in the GI. Pinuindo (sp?) is cool, but I've already added supercharger LEDs that I like (thanks MP). Color DMD (Pin2DMD) is something I already have, but slowly working on colorization (snail's pace).

Oh man, I think I was reading the price wrong. For some reason I had $129 in my head for the basic instead of $159 + shipping. Still considering, but now I need to add to my pinball fund.

Sure it will work just run an extension cord out the speaker hole to an outlet.

The service outlet is hot even with the machine off

Someone did not read the edit...

Yes, but there is some sort of relay board that connects to the driver board and the service box... hmmm, so in theory it could be done but then I'm not sure where you would mount the board. So lets say it would be best to run it off of the service outlet so everything is contained within the cabinet

So the relay board pulls power from somewhere else? I don't understand how something gets shut off when power is still there.

I don't either, but I watched a video of their lighting pop bumpers and they work the same. A transformer plugs into the service outlet and then it connects to a relay board that connects to the pops. One would think there has to be some other connection to a circuit that signifies power is on or off of the pin.

Yeah, I don't remember, I think I'm getting the install of my ColorDMD and this mixed up so...

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2Z2XwXX0Vf_Q1FKMTdyOVpyeDhXYl8ycVJtVGtLeFJ4Zy0w/view

Any new speaker panels available?
Thanks

Contact this guy: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1032-lighted-pinball-mods/00934-the-getaway-highspeed2-hs2-colored-led-speakerpanel-ultimate

If you look at the bottom it states: "New speaker plastic for limited games - $99.99", so he may have Getaway as I know he made some.

Yes he does, it's a masked version where only the dials and a few other areas light up.

About a year ago or so, another Getaway owner made their extra Getaway plastic model available to me (I think this was included in the recent past with a 3rd party produced Getaway plastic set). Anyway, its been sitting on top of my backbox since then and I've been telling myself that I need to light it up. Well, today was the day. I crafted a simple base out of 1x4 pine, cut slots in the top for the base to sit in, painted it black, put some rubber feed on the bottom, lit up with some extra Comet matrix lights I had laying around and a spot light cone, and voila - a lit Getaway topper. I did notice that I could see bleed from the side of the light strip, so I placed some heat shrink tubing in front of it with some double sided tape which resolved my issue.

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Looks awesome Mr T !

Thanks for the heads up,picked up my first Getaway now it's time to tear it apart.

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I have one of these too. I'll happily let it go if somebody wants it badly.

Congrats, and welcome to the club. From what I can see the cabinet looks great. BTW, how do you play your pins when they are sideways like that?

Wow, just looked at your collection which is quite impressive! Are all of these home pins or are you an operator? I would really love to own an Attack from Mars (who wouldn't) but well out of my price range. Let me know when you run out of space and need somewhere to store yours.

I love that. That’s my first thought when I get a pin. It’s a rare hobby where you say, “I got my new xyz—can’t wait to tear it apart!”

That's what used to make it a great hobby, buying a "new" pin from an operator who got his ROI and was selling an unwanted machine for a low price to make room for something that would earn more... the HUO market really put a hurting on that aspect but I agree, the fun is still fixing up a pin to it's former glory for my home arcade.

Welcome to the Getaway forum!

Not a operator. My dad and I collect and restore games .First game was a volley in 1978,still have it ! We have pins everywhere

While we're on the subject of toppers, Last month I decided to add some blue up there because to me that red light looks more like an ambulance than a cop car, and it's been bugging me for a while. So here's what I did:

1. Tapped into the beacon motor & light AC power source (which is something like 16-17VAC??) and fed it through a 12VDC converter from EBay. Redid the molex connector (the last one in the circtuit before the motor & lamp) so that it still fed the lamp and motor but also branched off into the 12VDC converter, and mounted the converter to the upper right side of the head.

2. Bought a couple of 12" long Knight Rider blue 12VDC lights off ebay which have a canned chase/strobe/blink routine built in.

3. Added comet matrix plugs to the LED strips.

4. Notched a small hole in the perforated head panel for the LED wire leads to run into the cabinet.

5. Stuck the LEDs to the back of the head with the double stick tape,one on each side of the beacon. I liked them in the back because the blue point lighting is more diffused and not blasting right into your eyes.

6. Plugged it all together

And viola. For about $20 and a couple hours I solved it. It is really easy to un-do and everything is up in the head so no issues with running long wire runs all over. Here are the component links and a quick video of the finished product. It looks kickasssss...at least to me anyways.

ebay.com link: SMAKN AC DC TO DC Converter AC 16 28V DC 16 40V Step Down to 12V 5A Power Supply

ebay.com link: 1 x DC 12V 30cm 3528 32LED Knight Rider Flash Strobe Scanner Neon Strip Light B

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Love it! Very nice. I'm with you on the red vs. blue which is why I went with all blue pop bumper caps/leds on mine. I've also incorporated blue with my lower flipper rubbers and some of the insert lighting (e.g. Super Jackpot). I really like how it blends in the blues from the playfield and makes it a littler more "police".

No luck with Speaker panel , if anyone has a new one available I will take it, with lighted speaker panel, color dmd, I can't leave a scratched one in there
Thanks Ken

Will take some searching, but I seem to recall someone in the past reprinting one (don't remember if in this forum or not). Wasn't an exact match, but close enough for a non-original reproduction.

Here it is, might want to chase this lead down: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/111#post-3665901

That's what I thought till I put hooked up the led strips directly to that 12v mars lamp source and it didn't work, and meter says it's definitely ac voltage . The schematic in that area is definitely vague if not misleading.

I believe the motor that makes the lamp rotate is AC but the bulb itself would be DC.