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Has anyone replaced the Playfield Slide Assembly Left and Right sides; part A-15421-1 and 2? Or can they be repaired? Mine jam every time I lift the playfield, meaning the "arrow" piece jams to the left and right side of the rail/slide piece, and doesn't allow me to lock it up without great hasle. At this point, I have to balance the playfield on edge, sitting on the Leg Rear Guides, and try and bungee strap it to keep it from falling. Very precarious, so I hate lifting it up unless I really have to. I see Marco has them in stock. maybe I just suck it up and buy new ones. Thoughts?

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I've never gotten mine to work correctly - the videos make it look so simple. I don't know what I'm doing wrong or if my parts are faulty, but I would love a detailed explanation/photos/video of how the system should work and what to do when it doesn't. When I lift my PF, it never "clicks" when I pull it all the way out, when I lift it is unstable, and I have to basically lift and slide as far out as I can when vertical and basically balance it on its edge to stay up.

Sounds like you have the same problem I have. The hinged piece (highlighted in red), jams itself to the side of the rail piece (highlighted in green) instead of riding on it, so it doesnt lock onto the upper post on the cabinet (blue)

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It looks like your spring is good which often is the cause sometimes of issues. Can you take a good picture from the side straight on? Also, those barrel nuts can come loose or get wear spots assuming you've checked for that already.

Here it is. The barrel nuts are in good shape. I tighten them up once in a while.

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Here’s a little mod I did that helps me remember to do something when I raise the playfield.

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Ok I don’t see them unless I’m blind tonight?!

So this is how that mechanism should be and hopefully how you can see how it would release, drop down, and be able to be removed. And if you understand how the mechanisms work, please ignore.

But looks like you’re not hooked into the nuts?

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These hinges are about the worst design Williams ever made. Pretty much every original Getaway has these issues. It is possible to fix them by banging them straight in a vise but better to buy a new set. Pretty easy to replace.

Its all good. Some people take all to the max ! Just sayin....

Thanks. I know HOW it works, I just can't get it TO work. The "arrow" looking piece that glides on the guide I guess has enough play in it that it gets stuck to the inside of the guide every time, so that I can't get it to lock onto the upper barrel nut. I always have to try and free it while holding the playfield up with my other hand, but it gets jammed every time. Now, the operation of it may have something to do with the attachment of the spring. I see yours is somehow wrapped under and attached somewhere under the hinge point. Mine has always been attached at this point (red). Maybe that is not giving it enough tension. Is it simple enough to see where to connect the bottom of the spring inside and under the hinge point?

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Sorry that I came off like a dick; it was not my intent. I'll get a better picture of the mechanism tonight for you. But does sound like your spring isn't working/set where it needs to be to work.

Well, now it sounded like I was a dick. No offense taken, just trying to clarify my issue. Thanks for the help.

Some good gameplay here. Start at 23:40. I need to practice after watching this.

After having Pinsound with all my custom audio mixes, I can hardly watch a video with the original - guess I'm a sound snob now.

You also need to check out the "Bro, do you even pinball?" Getaway episode.

Here’s how it should go. Hopefully it helps out.

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Yea that helps. I guess mine just has lots of play at the swivel point, allowing it jump off the guide. Maybe I’ll just take them out and bent them in my vise.

FYI...
Getaway was not originally designed with the PF sliders, it was an afterthought revision. Hundreds of games had already been produced, but not shipped. They went back and retrofitted all those games with the slides. The first version of the slides were shitty, they were made of crappy steel... They bent, deformed and cracked easily because the complete Getaway PF assembly weighs a ton, one of the heaviest ever... Hence this afterthought!! After several uses, they get jacked out of shape and never work right again. Add a dipshit operator that doesn't understand how they work, and they're toast in no time.
Near the end of the production run, Williams revised the slides with ones that actually worked, and continued to used them through 1994 with no issues.
The revised version of the slides (the ones that Marco and others are currently selling) are different, and made of strong quality steel. If you are one who has non-functioning and jamming sliders, you have an earlier production game, replace them, problem solved permanently. The pics that "dmacy" posted are of the revised sliders... His is either a very late production game, or someone already replaced them at some point.

Mine is also an earlier game, and I had the same issue some of you are having when I got it... I replaced both slides years ago, and not a single problem since. I also repaired all the gouged up wood (just like Chargers) and repainted the inside of the cabinet while I was at it.

Damn good information to know. A wealth of knowledge. Thank you, TheOnlyest Sounds like an order to Marcos or Pinball Life is in the future. I don't want to risk dropping the playfield. Mine do look different than dmacy 's.

EDIT: Looks like Pinball Life has them in stock. Why the $1 difference, I don't know.
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3161
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3163

Dang, now I get to spend more money on my Getaway! Props as usual for the detailed insight!

Yup. I just ordered.

Yep, mine were shit and all bent. Replaced with new ones about a year ago and no issues since.

Same problem here. Didn't want to spend another $100 but these screwed-up sliders have bugged the hell out of me since I bought the machine. Great info Onlyest - thanks for sharing.

Ha, that is my game that they are playing. My first HS2. On my third one now.

Came across this creative idea of with what to do with all your old pinballs:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinball-pyramid-bracket#post-4051014

Interesting. When I bought my Getaway the op had three at his place. None of the sliders worked. I thought he had done that purposely to avoid a good look at the machines. He had a very dimly lit shop, also to hide the condition of mostly reimports.

Thanks Onlyest for the info. And yes this is from my CV which currently has PF being swapped so certainly explains the differences!

Well, after reading the last few posts I did get some of the new slides. This was a great upgrade and the PF now slides out and up without any dragging. No more bungee cord needed to hold the playfield up. I also see there are clear differences between the old style and new. Look for the pressed groove (into the metal) around the pivot point as the easy way to differentiate the new ones.

You can see the difference below in the pics - the old ones were really crap.

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Yeah, your old ones just needed a serious visit with the vise and hammer clinic

My game when I bought it couldn't even be slid at all due to the brackets being mangled. I just bent them back to semi-normal shape. The end always spreads like that tho... good to hear the new parts are more durable for when the time comes..

If anyone can take a moment and tell me where the "female" end of this 1-pin molex connector traces to you would be helping my aging eyes out. I had the boards out and must have it trapped behind somewhere and don't want to pull them again if I don't have to. I borrowed the pic from someone in this thread, credit to him. Much appreciated, thanks.

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Sometimes there are connectors that aren't used, because the same board goes in multiple games. Not saying this is the case here. If it works without it plugged in, I'd say you're good.

The one in the pic is plugged in but also I labelled it, so with in-line connectors like this I generally put a letter on the male and female end. So that only helps if I can actually find the end unfortunately. As for if it works or not I need to debug a fuse issue F105 before I can play the game. Its a 22ga wire or so, so shouldn't be related to the fuse.

wow, thanks for all the help and info on the sliders on this game. Didn't realize the problems I've had with that were common. Clearly I need to spend the $60 to buy some new ones. This is one game that is never leaving, so clearly a necessary fix.

OK. Sorry for the misunderstanding. If someone doesn't beat me to it, I'll open my backbox up and take a pic and try and trace it. But it may not be until tomorrow sometime.

Don't take any trouble I figure someone might be in there anyway - If not I can pull the board, just not my preference. Thanks though!

If the wire is black with yellow lines then it is for the speaker.

Nuh uh. Specifically there are two one pin molex. I need the upper one and only the female end. Solid black. 22-24 ga

That's my Getaway, what exactly are you looking for here? No remember that I'm using a ColorDMD and some of the connections are not needed...

Is the molex circled with the arrow plugged into a black wire on both ends in that picture? If so i need to figure out where the female end goes. I took pics of my boards before i pulled them but that wire must've been behind the harness because I don't see it.

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Give me a few and I'll trace it, sorry I wasn't clear on what you needed

Actually Superbee might be right it is black with yellow. My eyes. Speakers work though.

Ok, thanks guys i think I'm good!

Well, a little torqueing on mine this weekend, and they are as good as new. Can't tell you how excited this simple fix on my Getaway makes me!

Does the machine have aftermarket speakers ? If so, a lot of the stock speaker wires do not get used .

Do you not have the means to take a close up photo of the connector in question, as it would help a lot. If you're still using a flip phone (you are the one calling yourself old) then I understand.

On the sound board....

j505 Black/Yellow on pin 2
j504 Black on pin 3

Yeah, so what it was is I have a Pinsound that I installed some time ago and I must've labelled this connector with the letter 'A' (for audio I guess) when i took the old board out but since that board is gone and the other end of the connector with it the label doesn't match anything. I've had this thing all apart to clean it up and re-decal the cabinet. That took months and I'm sure I thought I'd remember all this. Lol.

To make ot worse, the 'other' same size, black wire with same molex goes to the accelerator board so got me thinking this one was important also. Until Superbee pointed out it was a speaker wire.

So yeah, all coming back to me now. No issue here. Thanks all!

Great, so this is now resolved?

Absolutely