(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN


By MrSanRamon

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 16 hours ago by Mr_Tantrum
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There are 9863 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 198.
#601 4 years ago
Quoted from dtown:

Yup. Just once then diverts down the left ramp.

Hmm. Guess it was glitchy that it gave me a few loops each. My L-5 rom arrived in the mail today, so that will put a dent in my score. I can't imagine scoring 1B... my best score without getting supercharged is like 217M.

#602 4 years ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

Hmm. Guess it was glitchy that it gave me a few loops each. My L-5 rom arrived in the mail today, so that will put a dent in my score. I can't imagine scoring 1B... my best score without getting supercharged is like 217M.

I'm running L-5 BTW.

#603 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Hmmmm, a local guy wants mine and I've been thinking of selling.

Can Nascar replace Getaway?

#604 4 years ago

No

#605 4 years ago

Hoping this is an easy one for somebody on here. On my Getaway, the double star post (and in some cases single) in front of the left pop near the left loop was missing (as it is apparently is some Getaways people have removed the post). Can anyone tell me what size screw it takes? I can't find it in the manual it doesn't get that specific.

#606 4 years ago
Quoted from DocRotCod:

Hoping this is an easy one for somebody on here. On my Getaway, the double star post (and in some cases single) in front of the left pop near the left loop was missing (as it is apparently is some Getaways people have removed the post). Can anyone tell me what size screw it takes? I can't find it in the manual it doesn't get that specific.

I think it's just a standard single post in clear with a 5/16" rubber. Or maybe a double with two. The height is, I think, the same as the other posts, 1 1/16". Mine was gone to. It takes a lot of beating from the upper flipper. I just left it out.

#607 4 years ago

I may do that. I have the star post but was wondering about the size of the actual screw that goes through the post. Thanks

#608 4 years ago
Quoted from DocRotCod:

I may do that. I have the star post but was wondering about the size of the actual screw that goes through the post. Thanks

It's also possible to replace the plastic star post with a metal one and just use a cliffy rubber.

#609 4 years ago

This is what was on mine but this is a reimport from Italy...

image.jpg
#610 4 years ago

Checked the screw and not sure what exact size but it fills the double star post cavity on mine. (TWSS!)

image.jpg
#611 4 years ago

My "italian" Getaway had the same screw and x2starpost; I've tried cliffy post but balls bounce too many times so I've preferred a minipost there

WP_20141214_001.jpg
#612 4 years ago

I had a chance to play nascar yesterday. I love car themes and wanted to love it but no. For me, a good pin is one that is hard to stop playing. I had no problem walking away from nascar after a few games. Music, call outs, gameplay, and design are all meh. Even after owning Getaway for a while, I am always like one more game. I also got to try indy500 but Getaway still the best car theme pin imo.

#613 4 years ago

I actually traded my NASCAR for getaway .... NASCAR got old fairly quickly , and although getaway is shallow , its a blast !

#614 4 years ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

A gameplay question... I racked up 700+ million on the supercharger. I'm wondering if it's a bug (softare is L-1), or if the supercharger mode is designed to give you a s(*t-ton of points if you make the most of it. I got into super-charger mode, and then hit the turbocharger a few times in a row. The supercharger awarded 5 million for the 1st loop, 10 million for the 2nd, 15 million for the 3rd, etc. So after I hit the turbo charger a few times, the score really added. Is this how it is supposed to work? Or should it remain at 5 million per loop / ramp / etc?

I'd say that you have a bad opto in the supercharger. Mine is currently having the same problem. The wire powering the opto broke off and vibration is causing opto/switch hits. I just need to solder the wire back on.

#615 4 years ago

So I have an issue that has cropped up recently. I'll be playing along and then suddenly the volume will get REALLY LOUD! I mean like ear piercingly loud. Doesn't matter what level the volume is set at previously (have had it at 4 and 5) when something gets hit and triggers MEGA LOUDNESS! I have to turn the machine off to reset it. The audio is generally the same as what you would expect during gameplay (albiet just REALLY LOUD) but sometimes it will get stuck on a particular note in this loud mode. A reset will fix it.

I do have the Flipper Fidelity upgrade installed(sub and backbox) and am not sure if that is a culprit or not since this didn't happen before it was installed. Not sure where to troubleshoot this since in test mode, everything works fine. I also can't replicate this 100% in gameplay either. Sometimes it happens and sometimes it doesn't.

Anyone experience anything like this before? (on The Getaway or other Williams late year titles?)

#616 4 years ago

My HSII is for sale if you haven't seen my other post.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-es-hsii

Robert

#617 4 years ago
Quoted from Elfman:

So I have an issue that has cropped up recently. I'll be playing along and then suddenly the volume will get REALLY LOUD! I mean like ear piercingly loud. Doesn't matter what level the volume is set at previously (have had it at 4 and 5) when something gets hit and triggers MEGA LOUDNESS! I have to turn the machine off to reset it. The audio is generally the same as what you would expect during gameplay (albiet just REALLY LOUD) but sometimes it will get stuck on a particular note in this loud mode. A reset will fix it.
I do have the Flipper Fidelity upgrade installed(sub and backbox) and am not sure if that is a culprit or not since this didn't happen before it was installed. Not sure where to troubleshoot this since in test mode, everything works fine. I also can't replicate this 100% in gameplay either. Sometimes it happens and sometimes it doesn't.
Anyone experience anything like this before? (on The Getaway or other Williams late year titles?)

I had this same problem when I bought mine via eBay years ago. After a little arm twisting , the seller sent me a replacement sound board and that cured it. It's been fine ever since. I don't know which component on the board caused it.

#618 4 years ago

Quick question for fellow Getaway owners. I was wondering if someone could take a pic or tell me how the wires from the ball lock area on the right wire ramp feed down into the playfield? I don't think mine are correct.

#619 4 years ago

OK...I sold my HSII, so I'm out.

You guys carry on.

Robert

#620 4 years ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

OK...I sold my HSII, so I'm out.
You guys carry on.
Robert

I promise to "CARRY ON!"

#621 4 years ago
Quoted from DocRotCod:

Quick question for fellow Getaway owners. I was wondering if someone could take a pic or tell me how the wires from the ball lock area on the right wire ramp feed down into the playfield? I don't think mine are correct.

Don't know how much this helps. They're just tied together through wire harness and, then, down through the playfield hole.

image-562.jpg image-24.jpg
#622 4 years ago

That helps a lot. Whomever worked on this one before went behind it instead of to the right. Thank you so much!

#624 4 years ago

Got a divertor problem that has just shown up on my machine (first time for me). The whole upper ramp assembly was replaced a while back (including the coil, etc), and just recently i had the driver board fixed (was tripping the watchdog circuit). The ramp divertor was working before i had the driver board repaired but not afterwards. I doubt that the 2 are related and at this stage i've not had the time to take the ramp off to have a look at the inner workings underneath. The issue is this :- the divertor doesn't close to let the ball travel around the supercharger ring. Upon testing the solenoid, it just gives a slight click and moves about 5mm either way (for closed and open position) and that's it. Hoping to get the spare time to investigate next week but in the meantime has anyone got any ideas as to what may be the problem??

#625 4 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Got a divertor problem that has just shown up on my machine (first time for me). The whole upper ramp assembly was replaced a while back (including the coil, etc), and just recently i had the driver board fixed (was tripping the watchdog circuit). The ramp divertor was working before i had the driver board repaired but not afterwards. I doubt that the 2 are related and at this stage i've not had the time to take the ramp off to have a look at the inner workings underneath. The issue is this :- the divertor doesn't close to let the ball travel around the supercharger ring. Upon testing the solenoid, it just gives a slight click and moves about 5mm either way (for closed and open position) and that's it. Hoping to get the spare time to investigate next week but in the meantime has anyone got any ideas as to what may be the problem??

Start with the physical. Can you physically move the diverter freely? If so, the next thing to do would be to pull the ramp up and look at the coil assembly. Broken wires,etc.

But. Before doing that, I'd crack out the manual schematic and trace the coil's wires to their associated transistor. It's probably on the driver board but, I guess, could be on the supercharger board under the playfield. I'd trace that coil's wires to the board. Make sure the connector is in the right spot. The manual or schematic will tell you. Then, with your DMM test that coil's tansistor.

#626 4 years ago

Anyone know where I can get a sound file of the callout Dispatch - run a make on registration Kingpin?
Thanks in advance!

#627 4 years ago

When you say driver board, are you referring to the supercharger accelerator board mounted on underside of the playfield? when you run solenoid diagnostics test, the diverter coil clicks, but the plunger is not energized (not being pulled to the coil stop)enough to cause the diverter to open? Trying to make sure the diverter paddle is tight to the shaft and that the diverter is not binding by moving it open closed by hand.

#628 4 years ago

Mancave - does the diverter move freely by hand? It should feel like it has a slight spring tension but not much. Perhaps it was lubbed with something that gunked it up. Mine feels likes it binds a bit in the middle but works fine. Also, is the game throwing any errors?

#629 4 years ago
Quoted from mfresh:

Anyone know where I can get a sound file of the callout Dispatch - run a make on registration Kingpin?
Thanks in advance!

I think they have it at http://www.pinsound.org, but I can't check right now because there site is down for maintenance.

#630 4 years ago

Just wanted to say that this mountain has been sold. Thanks to all who expressed interest!

#631 4 years ago
Quoted from Elfman:

So I have an issue that has cropped up recently. I'll be playing along and then suddenly the volume will get REALLY LOUD! I mean like ear piercingly loud. Doesn't matter what level the volume is set at previously (have had it at 4 and 5) when something gets hit and triggers MEGA LOUDNESS! I have to turn the machine off to reset it. The audio is generally the same as what you would expect during gameplay (albiet just REALLY LOUD) but sometimes it will get stuck on a particular note in this loud mode. A reset will fix it.
I do have the Flipper Fidelity upgrade installed(sub and backbox) and am not sure if that is a culprit or not since this didn't happen before it was installed. Not sure where to troubleshoot this since in test mode, everything works fine. I also can't replicate this 100% in gameplay either. Sometimes it happens and sometimes it doesn't.
Anyone experience anything like this before? (on The Getaway or other Williams late year titles?)

I've got some thoughts; couple questions for you, though. Can you tell if the sound is really loud from either the backbox speakers or low cab speaker? Or is it loud in all speakers?

When it gets really loud, is the sound heavily distorted?

IF it's not affecting all speakers, and there's heavy distortion, I'd suggest replacing the corresponding amplifier on your sound board. I don't have the schematic in front of me, but they're the parts that look like transistors with 5 legs. You'll also need heat sink compound to go between the amp and its heatsink. Probably $5 worth of parts and a 5 minute job, if I've diagnosed it correctly.

Oh, also make sure your ribbon cables are good and seated properly; I could imagine a bad connection between the MPU and sound board causing this issue, though I've never experienced that personally.

#632 4 years ago

Hi everybody! I just got HS2 last week and it is my very first pin. While playing it yesterday the sound started cutting in and out which led to the sound not working at all. I checked all the fuses and pushed on all the connectors, adjusted the volume, inspected the speakers and nothing helped. The only solution to the problem I came up with after searching was a replacement sound board.

#633 4 years ago

Just joined the club! Should be getting my machine next week.

#634 4 years ago
Quoted from Collin:

I've got some thoughts; couple questions for you, though. Can you tell if the sound is really loud from either the backbox speakers or low cab speaker? Or is it loud in all speakers?
When it gets really loud, is the sound heavily distorted?
IF it's not affecting all speakers, and there's heavy distortion, I'd suggest replacing the corresponding amplifier on your sound board. I don't have the schematic in front of me, but they're the parts that look like transistors with 5 legs. You'll also need heat sink compound to go between the amp and its heatsink. Probably $5 worth of parts and a 5 minute job, if I've diagnosed it correctly.
Oh, also make sure your ribbon cables are good and seated properly; I could imagine a bad connection between the MPU and sound board causing this issue, though I've never experienced that personally.

Thanks so much, Collin. I will do some troubleshooting tomorrow to narrow the variables down. My gut tells me it is all three speakers that go haywire. I am not too afraid of board solder work but this sounds a little above my pay-grade. If I can narrow it down to specific parts, I can give the solder work a try. I'll give it a test and let you know. Thanks again for the insight! Really appreciate it!

#635 4 years ago
Quoted from dtown:

Start with the physical. Can you physically move the diverter freely? If so, the next thing to do would be to pull the ramp up and look at the coil assembly. Broken wires,etc.

But. Before doing that, I'd crack out the manual schematic and trace the coil's wires to their associated transistor. It's probably on the driver board but, I guess, could be on the supercharger board under the playfield. I'd trace that coil's wires to the board. Make sure the connector is in the right spot. The manual or schematic will tell you. Then, with your DMM test that coil's tansistor.

Thanks dtown, gives me some ideas as to just where to look first. The diverter does move freely (the usual spring resistance, certainly not jammed in any way) I didn't think to look at the supercharger board but i can rule out the connector in the wrong place as it hasn't been moved since before it was working (unless of course it's dropped off, haven't had the time as yet to have a good look) I'm hoping it's not on the main driver board, otherwise it's back to get tested and possibly repaired, Cheers

#636 4 years ago
Quoted from Chet:

When you say driver board, are you referring to the supercharger accelerator board mounted on underside of the playfield? when you run solenoid diagnostics test, the diverter coil clicks, but the plunger is not energized (not being pulled to the coil stop)enough to cause the diverter to open? Trying to make sure the diverter paddle is tight to the shaft and that the diverter is not binding by moving it open closed by hand.

Yeah i meant the driver board in the head not the supercharger board. The coil energizes somewhat as it does move the diverter a small amount BUT not to the coil stop and the diverter is not binding that i can tell from my brief initial investigation.

#637 4 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Also, is the game throwing any errors?

Just the one "Diverter error"

#638 4 years ago
Quoted from BigDan:

Hi everybody! I just got HS2 last week and it is my very first pin. While playing it yesterday the sound started cutting in and out which led to the sound not working at all. I checked all the fuses and pushed on all the connectors, adjusted the volume, inspected the speakers and nothing helped. The only solution to the problem I came up with after searching was a replacement sound board.

1) check power at the board.
2) check for cold solder joints on the connectors for both the sound board and power supply (actually IMHO it doesn't hurt to check all boards). Unplug the game and remove the boards and look at the backside.
3) re-seat the EPROMs and any other socket IC's (make sure game unplugged)

#639 4 years ago
Quoted from Collin:

I've got some thoughts; couple questions for you, though. Can you tell if the sound is really loud from either the backbox speakers or low cab speaker? Or is it loud in all speakers?
When it gets really loud, is the sound heavily distorted?
IF it's not affecting all speakers, and there's heavy distortion, I'd suggest replacing the corresponding amplifier on your sound board. I don't have the schematic in front of me, but they're the parts that look like transistors with 5 legs. You'll also need heat sink compound to go between the amp and its heatsink. Probably $5 worth of parts and a 5 minute job, if I've diagnosed it correctly.
Oh, also make sure your ribbon cables are good and seated properly; I could imagine a bad connection between the MPU and sound board causing this issue, though I've never experienced that personally.

So I think I know what's going on. My pins are downstairs and I live in the Northwest. It gets pretty cold down there. Not Michigan or Wisconsin cold, but definitely colder than the rest of the house. Thermostat is upstairs which is set to around 66 degrees. Now my pins share the same space as my home theater, which I use frequently. While I am down there, I use a small space heater that is connected by extension cord to the back of the room since all my amps and subs are connected to the front of the room(on a different circuit). Usually, when I fire up the pins, I will have been down there in between movies. And the space heater is on. Which draws power from the same power strip as my pins. In my testing, I have been unable to replicate the issue while that space heater isn't on. My theory is that when the space heater is on, it is drawing power from the same source as my pins are, which is causing low voltage to the sound board which is causing my sound problems.

One thing I forgot to mention is that sometimes the tunnel eject coil has a hard time ejecting the ball. Almost like it doesn't have enough power. Only when this space heater is on. I have played over 2 dozen games now, with the space heater off, and cannot replicate the issue. My gut tells me that if I turned the heater on, I could replicate it immediately.

So my thinking is that the space heater is starving the entire back part of the room of power, including the pins. Interesting that it doesn't seem to affect my TSPP at all while playing.

So my question is this. If this pin is not receiving the correct amount of power to the boards, will the symptoms I describe come to fruition? Much thanks!

#640 4 years ago

How many games on that circuit with the heater? How many amp is the circuit? How many watts is the heater? Are the games all led'd? Do you have a Kill-a-Watt meter? It's not a good idea to have the heater on an extension cord. Lots of questions need to be answered first.

#641 4 years ago

I would expect you would have other problems than just the sound going out and that's it if that were the issue. Like issues with resets, etc.

#642 4 years ago

Finally got my Getaway 100% working. Burnt connector was fixed a little while ago and now the supercharger is fixed. Did another factory reset so hopefully the scoring glitch will be fixed. Played a pretty good game and got a legit 720m.

I also put in the last few led bulbs to complete the full conversion. Leds are from Comet and they are awesome. Absolutely a joy to play now and love the light show. Pictures do not do them justice but here are a few.

DSC_1773.JPG DSC_1777.JPG DSC_1778.JPG
#643 4 years ago

I'm right there with you. It's funny but I just got mine working today as well 100%. Great game. Didn't get anywhere near your score

#644 4 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Played a pretty good game and got a legit 720m.

yea right

#645 4 years ago

I want in the club too! :0) picked this one up for $700 a couple weeks back. GI's weren't working, wouldn't boot up. It had the "check f114 f115 fuse" error. After a light cleaning, replacing burned connectors, socketing and replacing several ic chips and fuses, and a rather dumb switch error last night, I'm proud to say if it's up and running. The last issue I have is with the beacon motor. Pretty sure its toast.

As soon as i i finish shopping the ngs I'm in the middle of it will get a proper shop job.

Fun game. Better than i expected.

20141231_135735.jpg 20141231_143837.jpg
#646 4 years ago
Quoted from bbaker2824:

I want in the club too! :0) picked this one up for $700 a couple weeks back. GI's weren't working, wouldn't boot up. It had the "check f114 f115 fuse" error. After a light cleaning, replacing burned connectors, socketing and replacing several ic chips and fuses, and a rather dumb switch error last night, I'm proud to say if it's up and running. The last issue I have is with the beacon motor. Pretty sure its toast.
As soon as i i finish shopping the ngs I'm in the middle of it will get a proper shop job.
Fun game. Better than i expected.

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Crap $700....you got a DEAL.

#647 4 years ago

$700? If the playfield looks as good as the cab, you scored big time. You might want to check out the gear assembly for the beacon. There was a thread here detailing taking it apart, cleaning, and relubing to get it working again. Mine has the common problem of sticking. I just whack the side of the cabinet to get it going.

#648 4 years ago

It's not too hard to do if you learn how to feed the ball to the right flipper in supercharger mode. I can get over 200m if I don't miss a shot. Do that twice and that over 400m. After the first mulitball and/or passing redline mania, my game gets confused and starts multiball often with just one lock shot or two. I haven't figured out what the issue is but it makes it easy to get a lot of jackpots.

#649 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Crap $700....you got a DEAL.

My thoughts exactly!

Also, my beacon motor wasn't working when I got it. Turned out the triac board was plugged into a high voltage connector. Should have been on the low voltage output connector. The manual will tell you which plug. Once I moved it to the right connector, it worked. I helps to physically clean and actuate the motor to see if it's frozen up too.

#650 4 years ago

Front of cab isn't great. Playfield looks like it will clean up nice. Apparently somehow had arced high voltage to the switch matrix. Wasnt sure how bad it would be until I got it home. Figured even if the boards were hacked and shot i would be alright. Turns out the boards are clean. Good deal.

Manual says the beacon is 12 volts. I bench tested with 12 volts and got light but nothing out of the motor. I assume that's correct.

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