Looking to pick up some cabinet decals, but I saw some thread about artwork alignment issues with the shifter. Is this still an issue? Which of the available decals sources is recommended?

Not a shadow, I assure you. My mark has physical texture to it like a scratch, and appears at all times (I've had mine fully part to wash it, and mark is real).

This is quite strange. My assumption is that there must have been a contaminant in the mold for a run of these, and over the years the imperfection gathered and locked in dirt/dust. Not that it matters, but would be interesting to see if our pins fall in the same production range.

Yeah mine had the same mark also, although i don't use that stoplight surround now. If the part was created like model kit plastic parts it could be an ejector pin mark although it would be in a weird position for it. It would definitely have something to do with the mold/construction process i would imagine.

Assuming these were injection molded (I'm by no means an expert in plastics), this does seem like an unusual spot for a sprue. Maybe just a broken mold mark? Curious little anomaly, but interesting to me nonetheless.

Here is how mine came out. A little off, but since I have the artwork I can adjust before you have printed. Sent PM with more detail.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/93#post-3543561

Any takers for $15 delivered for my 3 Comet Pop LEDs (jewel covers not included)? I just received all of my pop rebuild parts and now have a nice little project for the weekend.

Start here and read down for info & pics: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/125#post-3803018

Some parts in model kits have ejector pin marks also and on the edging of the sprues, plus of course where the part was attached to the sprue there could be a leftover mark/dint if the part was cut off crudely (not by hand), got me bloody intrigued now you have, lol

Well, I'm about 3.5 hours into rebuilding my pops, but am out of time for tonight. I was able to remove all 3 above and below playfield, clean and wax pop area while I had everything apart, replace all of the upper playfield parts, and tear down, clean, and rebuild lower playfield parts. All I have left is to solder the socket leads, install and solder the coil assemblies, and install my new BrightCaps.

More pics to come, but thought I would share a few showing my progress. The first ones show under playfield before disassembly where I labeled and photographed all of my wires.

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These show my new spoons with cleaned leaf switches and contacts.
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This one shows a coil assembly before vs. after cleaning and rebuild. When I finished the first one, I noticed the metal plate was installed backwards. In my case all 3 original metal brackets were broken, and in the case of one of them the brackets were reversed (metal on bottom instead of on top).
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Here the metal plate is installed correctly with rebuilt coil assembly next to non-rebuilt one.
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Here are all 3 finished coil assemblies. I fully disassembled and cleaned all metal parts with new coil sleeves, both new brackets, and cleaned springs (I forgot to order new lower springs, but fortunately all 3 were intact and reusable so I just cleaned them well.)
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Those pop assemblies look good. Did you install new coil wrappers? The metal plates that were broken are usually broken on half of the ones that I take apart. I keep a bag of them in the tool box along with the other parts. Especially those special sized washers for the ring assembly.

I just cleaned the original wrappers as best I could. You are right, 2 of my 3 metal brackets were completely broken in two and the other was almost there. I kind of laughed when I read you should be able to do this in 15 minutes, as it looks more like a 5 hour project is what it will be for me. Of course, I am learning along the way and taking the time to fully disassemble and clean what appears to be 25 years of cruddy black build up off of everything. I knew this before, but learning even more that my game was obviously on route and never really gone through by a personal owner. One of my pop light sockets had been replaced with a makeshift one with wire leads. Operator just cut out old one but left all of the original leads under the playfield with the new wires soldered onto them.

Regarding the insulation over one of the leads, I don't know which one should be insulated on the socket that had been replaced above (its not there anymore). I'm assuming that if I just insulate all 6 (both on all 3 sockets) then I'm good? Otherwise, can someone please send me a pic that shows all of the pop leads on the bottom side of the table so I can use as reference? Could probably figure out with lamp matrix, but didn't want to go to the trouble.

Just the one that goes right next to the coil bracket needs to be insulated. The other is far enough away from everything.

For those of you who ever redo pops, take Vid's advice. Even though I did not sand as he suggests (I think he started with rougher ones than bought), I hand polished the ring and rod assemblies with Mothers aluminum and mag polish (what I happened to have, safe for all metals) then I waxed with two coats of carnauba (btw, I love the smell of that stuff) that I use on the playfield. Now they are both shiny and as slick as can be.

All done! A few minor adjustments and everything looks and performs great! Much better than the old junk for sure.

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Nice.....now you can come over and do mine. Now that ya know what your doing it will only take half as long.

Added something new to my Getaway today. Did you just gulp? I heard a gulp!

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Guess my PinGulp humor wasn't as funny as I thought. BTW, you need to see Will Ferrell's "Daddy's Home" to get the reference.

Get over yourself Mr T. Your just not that funny!!
All kidding aside, I really need to pick up a few pingulps for my pins. Btw... Just put a downpayment on a new playfield from Peter for my Getaway. It's the last thing I need to put mine over the top. Will be one of the sweetest Getaways out there once I've done the swap. The only thing I haven't done yet is a full playfield swap and while I'm a little nervous about the process, I have no doubt in my abilities to get er done. I will post often once I start in my former Getaway restoration thread that I started a while back. All feedback and advice will be more than welcome!

Question about the hairpin turn bracket (the one that there is a mod decal to cover up). My getaway doesn't have that bracket. I checked 3 machines at the NWPAS and 2/3 didn't have the bracket either. Is this normal?

What does this bracket do?

Yes you should have the bracket, it can keep the ball from flying out and landing in the cab.

Well hopefully you guys don't mind me around because woo boy do I have a hacked up Getaway. I'm trying to undo the madness within and here's my first question:

On J115 there's some wires spliced in, it's crazy town. Following these leads to the transformer. What is this connector/are these wires supposed to look like/connect to? These connectors are pretty scorched so whatever this person did is obviously bad for the game. Working on saving this game, undoing one bad hack at a time.

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That is really cool! Keep the forum updated with plenty of pics, as I would love to see Getaway in all its glory with a new playfield.

Been discussed here a few times, but I'll save you the headache. Yes you need one, and here is where you can buy it: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10903

I've had my Getaway for just over a year and played it a lot. In all that time I can count on one hand when a ball has shot up and struck the bracket. Without the bracket, ball falls deep into back of cabinet, game is over, have to remove glass & lift playfield, etc. In other words, spend the $15 and save yourself a headache that will most likely occur whenever you have friends over to show them what a cool dude you are. Nothing more embarrassing than building up your cool toys to friends and family only to have them fail due to something you could have easily prevented.

Not at home or I would see what mine looks like. Also, not to be condescending, but the manual is your friend. Have you gotten ahold of one and read the wire diagrams (I know this can be tedious, but incredibly informative)? You can find a link to download the manual here (go to "documentation" section just above the pics) along with other good info about the pin: http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1000

Yeah, even worse when I have to explain my attempts at humor.

BTW, if that cab speaker is rotted out, I have a new replacement that I will sell you for cheap if interested. Probably pretty low on your restoration list, but thought I would throw it out there.

Hmmm.. can you post a pic on what's on the end of those colored wires? is it the molex connector? is the Molex burnt? My quick guess is that connector was burnt and the owner who rebuilt it did not know how to make the pigtail loop so they cut the wires and joined 2 wires together inside the wire nut... Here is mine rebuilt, the orange wires are my pig tail wires, it's a pain in the butt but this is how it should look.

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Luckily I do have a manual, just starting to dig in on that.

May go for a speaker upgrade at some point but that's a long way off, as this machine is pretty wrecked mechanically. Luckily the field looks great and I'm patient.

You'll need the schematic for that, not the manual

I'll look mine over. Also, I'll get a better pic, that's one I had just of the BB not for your issue. Sorry

Yeah sorry, I meant I have manuals and schematics both.

And here's a pic of J115 connector, it definitely is toasted. The pin on the board shows the matching damage.

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My mistake, thanks for the correction (I assumed the schematics were in the manual). The link I provided also has a link to schematics at the bottom of the page.

enkiktd, I had a similarly damaged molex that I replaced, and fought with a failing board for several months before I just replaced it. Repairing boards is beyond my skill level, and quite frankly I wasn't patient enough to send it off for restoration. Hopefully, even though things may look bad, the damage to the board is minimal and easily repairable.

Guys in this forum have been a huge help with all kinds of issues I've experienced as a new Getaway owner, and I think you will find everyone in the club quite supportive.

Do your J115 yellow wires go directly to the transformer? Could you possibly provide me with a closer picture of your J114, J115 and J120 connectors? These all have the same issues on mine and I want to fix them up the correct way, even if it is a pain. No hurry, just whenever it's convenient for you. This is a long project, there's much much worse to deal with on this machine.

Yes, that's the issue with that setup, toasty pins and molex... LED bulbs will help reduce the load but those pins and that board will require work. You'll need to rebuild that connector but you're wasting your time in doing so if you do not repair-replace that driver board.

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I have a new board to replace it, I'm just working on repinning the connectors and making sure I'm not going to burn my new board. I used the schematic and he had all the right wires in the connector in the right place. We will pigtail it correctly and convert it to LEDs.

Is that 18 or 14 gauge wire on your pigtail?

J120 rebuilt... you can see my old J115 setup was similar to what you're dealing with, it works but it's ugly. The other pic I posted is ater the pigtails.

J114 is in the other pic.

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You could buy the IDC Molex connectors if you don't want to pig tail them or if your wires are long enough, it's the way it was done in the factory but these molex connectors I used with the crimp terminals are supposed to handle a heavier load

My 120 looks very different than yours due to the modification. I have the following original wires in the connector:

3 yellow
5 green
6 purple
9 white yellow
10 white green
11 white purple

Spliced into new ones as pictured:

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I don't know what's going on but do know where the High Current Driver Assembly is located? It's on the bottom left hand side the of the PF. Are there brown and purple/orange wires connected to that board? If so, please follow them out and up

I'm going to check out the schematics for j120, follow where the wires go and snap some pics after a trip to the electronics shop.

Good idea, I think you may have some work to do on that wiring and your molex connections.

There's also some scorching underneath the field near the coin door. Is this board for the kickback?

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That's the High Current Driver Assembly, the shooter rod wires go there and the way that j120 molex was wired it looked like those wires were feeding that board, I don't feel comfortable saying too much without seeing the big picture or knowing what's going on but you have some issues that need to be addressed.

For sure, and I bet a lot of this needs to be rewired and I intend to.

Excellent, good news! I'm sure you'll get that machine up and running in good working order.

First one down, everything else to go. that j120 is going to be confusing though

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So here's J120, looks like it leads to the backbox illumination.

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Good job +1

Yes, its a GI sting including BB... looks like there were some lines cut into this perhaps they were on some other fried connector/pin set

EDIT: That's just ugly stuff with the hodgepodge of assorted wires, good job trying to sort all of this out