(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN


By MrSanRamon

5 years ago



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There are 9863 posts in this topic. You are on page 11 of 198.
#501 4 years ago

Chris Hibler says no grease: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.games.pinball/48Ftsmdojis

I trust that guy. I polished my bracket and shaft up and it's been working great for about 3 years now. It's my most played pin, I doubt you'll have any problem (Probably won't have a problem either way considering it's home use).

#502 4 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Funny thing happened to me today. I had a delayed tilt right before I shot a 3rd lock. The ball went to the lock and never drained. The game got confused, dumped all three balls but played as normal, not multiball. I shot the supercharger and then video mode. Flippers went dead for video mode so I lost the third ball. During video mode, the other ball stayed in the supercharger - that was cool. I got another lock and then it went to multiball.
There are other times that my Getaway gets confused. After the first multiball, sometimes it starts multiball with just one lock. Anyone else have that happen?

Maybe stuck micro switches on the right ramp making the game think it has three balls there.

#503 4 years ago
Quoted from DefaultGen:

Chris Hibler says no grease: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.games.pinball/48Ftsmdojis
I trust that guy. I polished my bracket and shaft up and it's been working great for about 3 years now. It's my most played pin, I doubt you'll have any problem (Probably won't have a problem either way considering it's home use).

And we have a winner! No grease it is.

#504 4 years ago

For anyone who has done the Checkpoint key switch mod, do you have photos of how you connected the switch? I finally got my hands on one of these and there's a diode that's between two contacts that's throwing me off.

#505 4 years ago
Quoted from Geocab:

For anyone who has done the Checkpoint key switch mod, do you have photos of how you connected the switch? I finally got my hands on one of these and there's a diode that's between two contacts that's throwing me off.

Don't know if this is the exact key switch you purchased but here is the instructions for the one I bought.

Key Mod instruction sheet.pdf
#506 4 years ago

I have two spares. One from Marcos has no diode.

image.jpg
#507 4 years ago

Just finished mine. Bought it at the York Show. Did not work. Column of switches out. Turned out to be the U20 Chip on the CPU. Replaced and socketed. Seller told me the triac board had issues so the Mars Lamp didn't work. No. Someone had plugged the triac board into the wrong outlet on the driver board. Works fine. Also had some reset issues. CPU voltage was 4.86 or so in attract mode. Replaced BR1, BR2, C4, C5 and the voltage regulator on the driver board. Brought voltage up to 4.96. Wish it was over 5 but haven't had any resets when putting the game through stress tests. Also rebuilt the high voltage section of the DMD board with GPE kit and added a remote battery holder.

Playfield torn down and cleaned. Supercharger taken apart, cleaned and polished. All coils taken out and mechanicals cleaned or replaced as needed. Shifter taken apart and cleaned. Cliffy posts installed along with the tunnel saucer protector. Added a couple lights. One under the tunnel saucer and one in the far back left corner under the green tree plastic. Whole game re-rebbured and Super Bands installed. Playfield cleaned with Novus and several coats of Meguiars Carnauba Wax applied. Ramps cleaned and polished with Never Dull. Most of the LED's are Comets with a few Pinball Bulb LED's as well. Mostly the cool whites.

Make no mistake this is "players game." It has some planking and raised inserts that I leveled as much as I could within the boundaries of my skills. Cabinet is decent with some fading on the left side while the right doesn't look like there's any.

I'm waiting for my dad to have some free time to help me move it from the garage into my house. Most of the best WPC's are just out of my price range. This and BSD are two of my faves that ARE in my price range.

The Getaway.jpg

Cliffy
Cliffy.jpg

Stop Light.jpg
Tilt Shift.jpg

#508 4 years ago

Those are some pretty pictures.

#509 4 years ago
Quoted from DefaultGen:

Those are some pretty pictures.

Thanks. Though I didn't play much pinball as a kid I do remember playing this game at a local Pizza Hut when it was new in the early 90's. I always thought the Supercharger was the coolest.

#510 4 years ago

Yeah, awesome shots. Did you go with a led kit or buy individually? What kind of comet leds did you use? I'm interested in using leds in mine but with all the different choices, I have no idea what to use.

#511 4 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Yeah, awesome shots. Did you go with a led kit or buy individually? What kind of comet leds did you use? I'm interested in using leds in mine but with all the different choices, I have no idea what to use.

If you go with the individual option you can personalize your machine whereas a led kit is a "Set" option that dictates where and what colour the choices are. I personally feel that the user should choose their own colours and type of LED's. There are many varieties of LED's on the market, in my machine i have several types and to be honest there is not a massive difference between brands, BUT, choosing the correct sort of LED can be crucial. For Eg:- Using a flex LED in a position where the light needs to be directed towards the correct area or an LED to match a certain area on the playfield. You really do need to experiment and find what suits you!

#512 4 years ago

Great looking Getaway! Really fun game indeed!

Mike

#513 4 years ago

image-687.jpg
image-728.jpg
image-741.jpg

Key start pics for Geocab

#514 4 years ago

Thanks for the above PDF, it's a different switch but useful for the removal of the original start button.

As for MJW's photos, there appears to be two styles of Checkpoint key switch. I have the older one with diode. Maybe it's to prevent connecting the wrong wire and frying something? I believe I need that tab so how do I connect to it with the diode? Just solder the wire on?

MJW, it looks like you have 3 wires connected to the switch. What's the third wire? Is it one of the lamp wires?

#515 4 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Yeah, awesome shots. Did you go with a led kit or buy individually? What kind of comet leds did you use? I'm interested in using leds in mine but with all the different choices, I have no idea what to use.

No kit. Get the old note pad out and count your bulbs. How many GI Warm Whites? How many insert non-ghosting greens? How many 44's or 555's? Etc.

For the lower GI around the slings and anywhere there wasn't green trees I used warm white supreme brightness SMD's. Anywhere I was lighting green tree plastics I used the same bulb but in green. Even in the mid and upper playfield area if the plastic being illuminated wasn't green I used the warm white. For example, areas that are mountains or speed limit signs. Some guys like frosted but I just used the clear domes.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smd5050.htm

For inserts, I just color matched. Green inserts got green supreme brightness SMD's. The difference was that I chose the non-ghosting because the possible issues you can have with WPC games. For the white RPM inserts and any other white jewel insert I used cool white.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smd5050ng.htm

The back box is an assortment of reds, blues and cool whites.

The Supercharger Sign got a frosted Supreme Brightness SMD non-ghosting yellow and red.

I used three red ones of these in the pops.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/6smdfan.htm
Although, these would be cool too, if not a little pricey.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/bmpring.htm

There's all sorts of choices for flashers but I used the natural white 8 SMD's for the playfield.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/8smdg18tower.htm

And the 13 SMD's for the backbox, "free ride" insert and the supercharger.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/135050smdt1012v.htm

Note that I had no issues with any of the Comet LED's I bought. If it wasn't working right it was usually an issue with the holder's connectors needing tightening or, in one instance, an issue with the board's header pins needing resoldered. Comet LED's are good stuff. While I love Cointaker, if I'm not at a show (where the deals are really good) their online prices are a little too much.

One final piece of advice. F*ck those cheap single LED's that sell for around 38 cents. They're so dim I might as well use a 44 incandescent.

Hope this helps some.

#516 4 years ago
Quoted from Geocab:

Thanks for the above PDF, it's a different switch but useful for the removal of the original start button.
As for MJW's photos, there appears to be two styles of Checkpoint key switch. I have the older one with diode. Maybe it's to prevent connecting the wrong wire and frying something? I believe I need that tab so how do I connect to it with the diode? Just solder the wire on?
MJW, it looks like you have 3 wires connected to the switch. What's the third wire? Is it one of the lamp wires?

Not sure what the third wire is. Pretty sure back when I installed it I let the wire for the start light just hang cause it was not needed. How many wires does your stock start button have? The Marco key start switch I installed did not have a diode to the best of my knowledge.

#517 4 years ago

I'll double check but I believe stock has 4 wires. Two for the light, two for the switch.

#518 4 years ago

I'm designing a tachometer mod for my Getaway inspired by HOOKED's Mustang mod. I'll probably start by connecting to the playfield tachometer lights. I've thought about maybe doing something with the supercharger too--like "boosting" the tach every time the ball goes around. I posted a video of my progress. I'm still prototyping, so there's no finished product to show off, but it might be of interest to the engineer-type folks out there.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/video-series-designing-and-building-a-new-mod

#519 4 years ago

Thats some serious work you're putting into it.
well done.
I've often thought about it but its beyond my skills.
I prob would of used a servo instead of a real clock to keep it easy!
how are you going to tie the PF lights to the micro controller ?
Could be a shit ton of wires!
And what about the attract mode?
would be cool to have it dancing around or going up and down steadily.

#520 4 years ago

^^^ Huh...yeah, a servo would have been a lot easier. But the challenge is what drew me to the project. I'm in it to learn.

If I connect it under the playfield, I'll end up using 4 separate boards: 3 to intercept the lamp matrix wires on the three playfield tach lamp boards (even then, there are a couple lamps that will need to be desoldered and rerouted to a board), and another board for the micro and tach driver circuitry. Or maybe I can run my own little lamp matrix in parallel with the real lamp matrix and tap into it right off the board in the backbox. The latter would allow me to keep everything on one board. ...but I haven't thought much about how/if a parallel lamp matrix would work. It's definitely going to be a lot of work to integrate.

If I don't do anything to detect attract mode, the needle will probably peg because, if I remember right, all the tach lights flash during attract. I might be able to differentiate attract mode from gameplay by watching the lowest tach insert lamp. I think it flashes during attract, but is solid during gameplay.

#521 4 years ago
Quoted from kyle5574:

^^^ Huh...yeah, a servo would have been a lot easier. But the challenge is what drew me to the project. I'm in it to learn.
If I connect it under the playfield, I'll end up using 4 separate boards: 3 to intercept the lamp matrix wires on the three playfield tach lamp boards (even then, there are a couple lamps that will need to be desoldered and rerouted to a board), and another board for the micro and tach driver circuitry. Or maybe I can run my own little lamp matrix in parallel with the real lamp matrix and tap into it right off the board in the backbox. The latter would allow me to keep everything on one board. ...but I haven't thought much about how/if a parallel lamp matrix would work. It's definitely going to be a lot of work to integrate.
If I don't do anything to detect attract mode, the needle will probably peg because, if I remember right, all the tach lights flash during attract. I might be able to differentiate attract mode from gameplay by watching the lowest tach insert lamp. I think it flashes during attract, but is solid during gameplay.

WOW, you lost me.

#522 4 years ago
Quoted from dtown:

No kit. Get the old note pad out and count your bulbs. How many GI Warm Whites? How many insert non-ghosting greens? How many 44's or 555's? Etc.
For the lower GI around the slings and anywhere there wasn't green trees I used warm white supreme brightness SMD's. Anywhere I was lighting green tree plastics I used the same bulb but in green. Even in the mid and upper playfield area if the plastic being illuminated wasn't green I used the warm white. For example, areas that are mountains or speed limit signs. Some guys like frosted but I just used the clear domes.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smd5050.htm
For inserts, I just color matched. Green inserts got green supreme brightness SMD's. The difference was that I chose the non-ghosting because the possible issues you can have with WPC games. For the white RPM inserts and any other white jewel insert I used cool white.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smd5050ng.htm
The back box is an assortment of reds, blues and cool whites.
The Supercharger Sign got a frosted Supreme Brightness SMD non-ghosting yellow and red.
I used three red ones of these in the pops.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/6smdfan.htm
Although, these would be cool too, if not a little pricey.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/bmpring.htm
There's all sorts of choices for flashers but I used the natural white 8 SMD's for the playfield.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/8smdg18tower.htm
And the 13 SMD's for the backbox, "free ride" insert and the supercharger.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/135050smdt1012v.htm
Note that I had no issues with any of the Comet LED's I bought. If it wasn't working right it was usually an issue with the holder's connectors needing tightening or, in one instance, an issue with the board's header pins needing resoldered. Comet LED's are good stuff. While I love Cointaker, if I'm not at a show (where the deals are really good) their online prices are a little too much.
One final piece of advice. F*ck those cheap single LED's that sell for around 38 cents. They're so dim I might as well use a 44 incandescent.
Hope this helps some.

Big thanks for the info. I saw a LED Getaway last weekend and was very impressed. I definitely plan on putting LED's in mine and playing with colors. I like the use of green up top and red on the bottom. I also want to light up the back corners, especially around the supercharger better but not sure how yet.

I talked to Art and he mentioned you can only use 3-8 non-ghosting bulbs without the ocd board. Sounds like you used non-ghosting on all inserts. Did you have the ocd board??

#523 4 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Big thanks for the info. I saw a LED Getaway last weekend and was very impressed. I definitely plan on putting LED's in mine and playing with colors. I like the use of green up top and red on the bottom. I also want to light up the back corners, especially around the supercharger better but not sure how yet.
I talked to Art and he mentioned you can only use 3-8 non-ghosting bulbs without the ocd board. Sounds like you used non-ghosting on all inserts. Did you have the ocd board??

All the Comets in the inserts were non-ghosting but the cool whites I used in the clear inserts were Pinball Bulb LED's that came with the game so I don't know if they're non-ghosting. They don't flicker though.

#524 4 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

I also want to light up the back corners, especially around the supercharger better but not sure how yet.

Did you see my topic, "DIY Getaway lighting mods". It might help.

#525 4 years ago

Order leds from comet for the back board and some samples to test out on the playfield. I want to check out what some of the colors look like in the inserts and the difference between warm/natural whites. I also got some strips to copy what MustangPaul did and light up the gauges.

I fixed my broken flipper and put on superbands. Love them! They have the right amount of grip and bounce. So much easier to get accurate shots. I even blasted my high score tonight - got 787m. This time I got not one but two 100m super jackpots in redline mania. I swore it only gave out 50m before the few times I did it. My supercharger diverter seems to be malfunctioning more and more. It sticks open so that did help in getting my high score - got 235m in one supercharger mode. I also figured out that some of the rollover switches do not work 100%. That explains why the ramp does not lift out of the way sometimes and balls often get stuck under it. Even with the problems, I still love to play it. Sometimes I don't even let my kids play because one more game.

#526 4 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Order leds from comet for the back board and some samples to test out on the playfield. I want to check out what some of the colors look like in the inserts and the difference between warm/natural whites. I also got some strips to copy what MustangPaul did and light up the gauges.
I fixed my broken flipper and put on superbands. Love them! They have the right amount of grip and bounce. So much easier to get accurate shots. I even blasted my high score tonight - got 787m. This time I got not one but two 100m super jackpots in redline mania. I swore it only gave out 50m before the few times I did it. My supercharger diverter seems to be malfunctioning more and more. It sticks open so that did help in getting my high score - got 235m in one supercharger mode. I also figured out that some of the rollover switches do not work 100%. That explains why the ramp does not lift out of the way sometimes and balls often get stuck under it. Even with the problems, I still love to play it. Sometimes I don't even let my kids play because one more game.

Sounds like your having fun and problems all at the same time but it's an old game and ya have to maintain them. As you saw I put a "few" led strips on mine but they are sooooo nice. I'm really glad Art came up with them. GREAT score too.

#527 4 years ago

Moved my Getaway inside from the garage today. Thanks Dad for the help! Though I was able to run her through stress tests in the garage, the game was on a cart and, since I have a low ceiling out there, it was never in a position for playing.

Jebus freakin' Chiminey is this thing fast! The kickback fires the ball into the tunnel which, some of the time, can't hold it, and shoots out the side. Think it's the fault of the Cliffy, or should I make the playfield steeper?

Wife was asking "when does the light come on?" I told her "when I get to multiball...oh and the ball just shot down the left outlane." Jebus, this game is wicked! Less wax next time.

#528 4 years ago
Quoted from dtown:

The kickback fires the ball into the tunnel which, some of the time, can't hold it, and shoots out the side. Think it's the fault of the Cliffy, or should I make the playfield steeper?

I have the same issue since I installed my Cliffy. I recently saw a thread where someone put washers between the red kick-out cup and the back of the playfield to make the cup a little "deeper" and reduce the chances of that happening. Think I'll try that next time I service mine...

#529 4 years ago

The ball bounces out of the tunnel cup on mine sometimes as well. That is usually from a hard shot from the flipper, though. I think the problem is from a lot of wear of the playfield around the hole. Mine has little wear so it works most of the time.

#530 4 years ago

Just noticed last night it says "change lanes" on the apron.
referring to changing lanes on the inlanes/outlanes
But you cant change lanes on mine?
can anybody change lanes?

#531 4 years ago

I think they mean for changing lanes in video mode.

Quoted from urbanledge:

Just noticed last night it says "change lanes" on the apron.
referring to changing lanes on the inlanes/outlanes
But you cant change lanes on mine?
can anybody change lanes?

#532 4 years ago
Quoted from urbanledge:

Just noticed last night it says "change lanes" on the apron.
referring to changing lanes on the inlanes/outlanes
But you cant change lanes on mine?
can anybody change lanes?

It's referring to video mode.

#533 4 years ago

Ah,
That makes sense !

#534 4 years ago

I just rebuilt my flippers and they're stronger now, but it still feels like the ball lock shot from the lower right flipper (around the back and up the ramp) is BARELY making it. It's not "whipping around" as satisfyingly as I would expect. More details here in Vid's flipper thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers/page/14#post-2062602

My question to youse guys is: How fast is that shot on your machine? Is it screaming around the playfield at the speed of ball? Or do you worry it's not going to make it all the way up the ramp? I'm curious how it is on other machines...

#535 4 years ago

Can you post a video?

I put the proper coils in mine and I still cannot backhand the supercharger like I did for the first couple of days after my flipper rebuild. And that was on a 30. (I still can't believe I did that. )

I'm really curious as why I lost some power. I can make all the other shots though. But I can say my lock shot doesn't zip like it did at first.

#536 4 years ago

My flippers are pretty strong - like most decently maintained machines I have played. With the proper shot, the ball shoots up the lock ramp with ease. I can't backhand the supercharger unless I hit a fast moving ball. I would look at youtube Getaway videos for comparisons. I forget who, but someone on pinside posted a long video of a ridiculous high score. His played super fast.

#537 4 years ago

Haven't rebuild my flippers ever and I can back hand the supercharger from a cradle.
It's more about skill

#538 4 years ago

Any word on PPS potentially making a repro playfield? I would give my middle nut to have a nice glassy clearcoated playfield.

#539 4 years ago

I had my stoplight out of the machine today and noticed some designs on the PCB. Looks like "Butch" and "CET". Engineers leaving their marks, maybe?

IMG_1049.JPG
IMG_1050.JPG
IMG_1052.JPG

#540 4 years ago
Quoted from kyle5574:

I had my stoplight out of the machine today and noticed some designs on the PCB. Looks like "Butch" and "CET". Engineers leaving their marks, maybe?

LOL that's possible, BUT GEEEZZ that's some rough bloody soldering on that board (not pointing the finger at you mind)

#541 4 years ago

You will see Butch all over Williams pins ....

#542 4 years ago

Is there a story behind it?

#543 4 years ago

Need some help. I still have an issue of balls shot hard into the left rpm loop getting jammed under the supercharger. I had another pair of eyes watching and he observed the ball slamming into the back wall in the back, bouncing down, and hitting the rubber on the post above the pop bumpers. Basically, the ball does not go through there smoothly and bounces off the walls. With all the open area back there, it seems like a design flaw but I've never heard anyone else have this issue. It does not always happen but frequent enough to be real annoying.

One thought is that the metal side wall is not shaped correctly. Looking up the left rpm lane on your machine, does the metal side on the left follow the orange painted line on the playfield all the way to the back? Mine bows out a little (top purple arrow). All the other metal rails and walls follow the artwork closely so I wonder if that is the problem.

DSC_1625.JPG
#544 4 years ago

One other thing, anyone have a weird high score? Playing tonight, I had a decent game. Good but not great. With the fast gameplay, I don't watch the score that closely. I expected around 300 million at the end but had almost a billion. My previous best game was not even close to that with more jackpot and supercharger points. Looks impressive but there is no way that score is legit. My supercharger is not working so maybe that has something to do with it.

#545 4 years ago

My outside guide is a bit tighter than the orange playfield art towards the top of the orbit. I remember somebody questioning alignment of that guide and posting pictures of it, but I can't find the thread. Where is the ball bouncing up? Maybe a solution like the one in this thread would help?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-not-so-smooth-ball-flow-in-orbits

#546 4 years ago

I run the L-2 ROMs. I was recording some gameplay and I caught the Secret Mania ball lock bug in the video. Makes we want to try out the L-5 ROMs.

#547 4 years ago
Quoted from dtown:

Just finished mine.
Playfield torn down and cleaned. Supercharger taken apart, cleaned and polished. All coils taken out and mechanicals cleaned or replaced as needed. Shifter taken apart and cleaned. Cliffy posts installed along with the tunnel saucer protector. Make no mistake this is "players game."

The Getaway.jpg 200 KB

It doesn't look like a players machine....it's beautiful, played one at a friends last week, made me wish I hadn't traded mine. I'm already on the look out to get another one.

#548 4 years ago
Quoted from kyle5574:

My outside guide is a bit tighter than the orange playfield art towards the top of the orbit. I remember somebody questioning alignment of that guide and posting pictures of it, but I can't find the thread. Where is the ball bouncing up? Maybe a solution like the one in this thread would help?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-not-so-smooth-ball-flow-in-orbits

Thanks for the link. That seems like the exact same problem. I first thought it was the rollover switches but now think it is something else. Something is causing the ball to take a different path and the ball starts bouncing off walls under the supercharger. When playing, you can't see it but hear a lot of noise of the ball knocking into metal. I will try to remove the screws and see if that helps.

#549 4 years ago

are all Getaway playfields diamond plate protected??

#550 4 years ago
Quoted from whisper:

are all Getaway playfields diamond plate protected??

Early runs were not.

http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1000

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