Just like new and you should now be set for a very, very long time. Good work!

Yes, that is what I was trying to say, but you stated it more clearly.

Well done, and excellent work. It's always fun to learn more about pinball by doing it yourself (IMHO)!

Looks like it is random after all. Mine appears to be random as well.

With the flange on the ball side or toward the game, it still would have been trapped by the bracket, so no chance for it to go anywhere. I put it to the shooter side anyhow. My fear was that the armature would slap the bracket when shooting, hitting metal to metal. But it also looks to have maybe an 1/8" to 1/4" more travel this way, to the shooter side, so that's where I left them both.

Good point but it is about the travel so either way you got it right.

In my effort to keep this thread alive;
Topic: Cliffy protector for tunnel.
Pros and Cons.
How much of a PITA would it be to install?
Would it keep the ball from overshooting the "hole" ? Meaning right now the ball goes in the tunnel, hits the hole, continues momentum and rolls up the lane a little farther, and then rolls back in.
Thoughts?

I put a cliffy on my tunnel eject hole mainly to protect it from any further damage. Not sure if it reduced the amount of times that the ball bounced out though. You do need to take a few things apart to install it although nothing to difficult. About an hrs work.

I repaired my damaged outhole and put a cliffy over top to help protect it plus I installed one on the shooter lane. It is time consuming to tear those areas apart but it's well worth the effort and I do not see any difference in game play.

Cliffy Outhole (resized).jpg
Outhole 1 (resized).jpg
Cliffy shooter (resized).jpg

I also have the shooter lane cliffy. Good protection for not a lot of money.

that's the design. nothing wrong with that.

Thanks. I guess leave it alone for now then. On again to my intermittent diverter issue; Today I played three games and it messed up two out of the three. First time the gate closed too late, sending the ball over the side on top of the pop bumpers. Next time it trapped the ball, and I had to wait for the stuck ball sequence, hitting everything until it released. So I noticed that the gate appears, to me, to be in the at rest state, too far in as seen in the pic. I see a place to loosen an possibly adjust it in some with an Allen wrench. I wonder if that would make a difference or mess something else up.
Edit; Did a made loop option test and a diverter test. Both good. Still confused.

IMG_0748 (resized).JPG
IMG_0749 (resized).JPG

I don't think that is too far off. Mine has a similar gap and the ball is pretty solid on it's trajectory. If the diverter were off much one way or the other, the ball would be bouncing off the ramp sides.

Did you re-build the diverter? I am betting a new coil sleeve is going to do you wonders.

No I have not. I'll look into it. Guess I would need to rip the supercharger out just to get to it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hs2-supercharger-removal-tutorial

Should you be seeing a doctor about this? Seriously though, I like the looks of your outhole now (should I be seeing a doctor about this?)

lol... I'm going to leave this alone, this thread could end up in the gutter pretty quickly.

you could loosen that set screw and try to move the gate in a bit, then tighten it up to see if it helps (that's what I did to mine, the ball was hitting the gate when it was open effecting the loops. A pic of the open may help

Nice, wish I had seen that before I rebuilt mine. But really, don't sweat the Supercharger removal, it isn't nearly as bad as it seems, and you will love being able to get into that back lane and clean and wax.

I will tell you, the best way to do this is with the playfield out of the cabinet if you are savvy enough to unplug everything and return the cables to their original connectors. The reason I say that is while you have the Supercharger off, it is always good to clean and give a little TLC to the drop-ramp mech as well. I pulled the playfield and stripped most everything and replaced all coil sleeves and linkages in a day. But if that is not your bag, then just stick to servicing the Diverter with the playfield in the cabinet.

Well come on over and do mine, I can help......I can get ya a beer and a slice of pizza when ever you want while you work on the game.

That's a great idea that I won't be doing soon. Thanks. I will take the supercharger off and since I'm there I'll replace the coil and related wear parts. I want to get the parts list together first before I start into it. I will clean and wax while I'm in there but a playfield removal won't happen at this point.

Sorry, didn't know your tech level. I'm just one of those guys that likes to go through everything at once, so I only have to tear it down one time. But yea, order the parts first and take pictures as you go along so you know what order everything goes back on. Because folks don't have time or are intimidated, the diverter and drop ramp are very often left out of any maintenance, and usually need the most attention. You will be glad you tackled it when you are done.

If you were just a little closer, I would take you up on that. I like going through these old mechs and bringing things back to life. Just yank it out and throw it in the car and we can go through it in my shop............While we have the playfield out of the cabinet, we can put new connectors on the wire harness too!

Thanks but there's nothing wrong with my setup but it would be fun to do that.

OK, you are welcome anytime with...or without a playfield to work on.......lol

Almost a Kodak moment we had there (reference that only us old farts will get). Glad to see how well we all get along. Seriously, I know we all probably have more differences than similarities, but fun to see how a shared hobby brings people together.

Almost as extreme as when I was into wake boarding. I was a middle-aged, milk toast, pasty white guy, but had all kinds of friends on the water with tats and piercings from head to toe. Share a hobby, show a little mutual respect, and try to understand each other's perspective a little and it's amazing how well you can get along with people.

F you !! im always right !! Just kidding ! ...

I got the list together for yet another Marco order for the supercharger diverter;
Product Quantity Price Sub Total
Delete
Shaft - diverter actuator #02-4606
Weight: 1.65 oz
Dimensions: 0.5 X 2.5 X 0.5

1
$6.15 $6.15
Delete
E-clip for 7/16 in. shaft #20-8712-43
Weight: 0.02 oz
Dimensions: 0.6 X 0.1 X 0.75

1
$0.25 $0.25
Delete
Roll pin 3/32" x 5/8" 20A-8716-2 #20-8716-2
Weight: 0.01 oz
Dimensions: 0.1 X 0.1 X 0.5

1
$0.20 $0.20
Delete
Spring - compression #10-128
Weight: 0.027 oz
Dimensions: 0.5 X 2.5 X 0.5

1
$0.80 $0.80
Delete
Coil sleeve - 1-3/4 x 1/2 inch #03-7066
Weight: 0.05 oz
Dimensions: 0.5 X 0.5 X 1.75

1
$0.69 $0.69
Delete
Coil - solenoid dual Williams #A-14701
Weight: 0.235 lb
Dimensions: 1.25 X 2 X 1.75

1
$12.99 $12.99

I think this would be all I would need. Would someone of knowledge check my work? I got this from the manual on pages 2-30 and 2-31. I'm not sure if I need the Shaft-Diverter Actuator or not. Seems like a piece that wouldn't wear out. My total now with shipping is $28.07.

But before I even make this order and tear it all out, I'm just gonna go ahead and swap the optos for the "made loop". They do work but they are the easiest to change. Making that's a waste of time. Looking for opinions, and then I'll do whatever the heck I feel like.

That a boy!!!

Right? Doesn't everyone do that? Waste everyone's time getting their thoughts and then go and do what they feel like, not taking good sage advice.

There are two ways to approach this:

1) Gather all the data/information you can from experience, weigh out what you have learned, apply a little critical analysis, then having made an informed decision think for yourself, come to a determination of what you think is best. Nothing wrong with not doing exactly as someone else tells you to do, but great learning from the experience and knowledge of others.

2) Seek others' opinions already knowing full well what you are going to do ahead of time, but provide some artificial sense of contribution by allowing others to express their opinions. I call this a chapter in Management 101 . . . you're always better off letting someone else think it was their idea or that they had a say in things, whether or not they really did.

Which reminds me, if you've never read the "Art of Demotivation" by Dr. E. L. Kersten, you are in for a real satirical treat. This should be mandatory reading for anyone in a management or higher position - pure genius!

Honestly, if it were me, I would 1st switch out to new pinballs and then reduce the gap on your gate, that 1/8" could make all the difference in the gate closing on the ball and while that gap doesn't seem abnormal it looks bigger than my machine's. Sure, you may need a new spring and sleeve (and at that point might as well start fresh) but I'd start there first. The truth of the matter is even adjusting the gate and messing with the set screw is a PITA but much easier than a full tear down.

I'll look at your parts list but I'm dealing with some stuff ATM.

Could you post a video with the gate close-up during a few SC loop cycles? Maybe this could help some of us compare to how our operates, and we might see something in your setup.

Will do. But first I need to watch VCU beat Saint Mary's.

Well, I guess you will be watching until they play again? Sorry you team is ousted, but now you can focus on pinball again! Throw a video up when you can, as I would like to compare it to how mine plays given I don't have any issues you have outlined.

If can only post pictures then one open and one closed is a good start but the would video be best because it could potentially show when the ball hits the gate. I believe that everything is functioning properly, opto, diverter... but it's either the spring is not strong enough to snap the gate closed fast enough and the ball is making contact with the edge of the gate; or the gap is too great and it's position when closing is messing up the timing because it has to travel further than normal to get out of the ball's way. A sluggish mech could also be an issue where its just closing too slowly because there is gunk built up on the coil sleeve and crank arm assembly

Here is what mine looks like, which operates correctly 100% of the time (full speed, 25% speed, then full speed again). Would love to see yours to compare.

Thanks for the responses. Yea the Rams lost but live goes on. Will get that video posted sometime tomorrow.

Does anyone know what the part number is to the switch for the outhole? I've been through the manual and the switch is not listed anywhere.

Manual p 2-40, line 55

here's a players HS2 that just popped up on clist for any lurkers in here:

newyork.craigslist.org link

this is the one I used from Marco....

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-12133-11

Sorry, its the switch for the burn rubber outhole. It doesn't appear in the list of switches on p 2-40 nor does it appear in the detail for the kicker outhole on page 2-22.

outhole switch (resized).jpg

I was thinking this one maybe

http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=A-10417

Sorry, but maybe I'm a little confused, here is the pic of my old outhole switch with the info from the one I used to replace it with. The switch you linked has a loop arm (more like a ball lock switch), the outhole has a bent arm. I had to modify the end on the old arm so it would extend into the outhole, with out that bend going through the outhole the ball would never make contact with the switch so the ball would just sit there; of course this is more in regards to the switch arm than the actual switch.

20170318_172424_resized (resized).jpg

Good price

Oh I see. By the wiring color (white/violet & green/violet), I believe this would be switch 77 "Eject Hole" according to the Switch Matrix. This would be part #A-9381-R (Item 77 on 2-40, but there is no 77 icon identifying in on the playfield schematic).

http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=A-9381-R

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-9381-R

The switch alone is a modified 5647-12133-12 (with straight metal) so it looks like TM used the right part - 5647-12133-11 (just have to use existing parts for rest of assembly). Problem is that 5647-12133-11 and the assembly appear to be out of stock everywhere in NA.

I did find switch at ministryofpinball.com: http://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/mircoswitch-5647-12133-11.html

Also found in Australia: http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/parts-by-machine/williams-parts/5647-12133-11.html

Some other place in Europe: https://www.coinoperatorshop.com/en/automaten/Pinball/Spareparts/Micro-switch/Microswitch-209534.html

Yes, you can't use a loop arm in that because of the kicker so it has to be the bent arm, Williams PN 5647-12133-11, the switch itself is 5647-12133 the #11 is the arm type

Cliffy Close up (resized).jpg

If your switch is bad, but the arm is still good then you could just replace the switch (which is available) and reuse the old arm: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-12133-00