(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN


By MrSanRamon

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by JDHHoover
  • Topic is favorited by 171 Pinsiders

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There are 9910 posts in this topic. You are on page 104 of 199.
#5151 2 years ago

Got my decals in the mail mr.T i love them thank you. Great quality

#5152 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Of course, you could always attack the problem from the inside. While I've never taken my shifter knob apart, I assume there is some sort of spring mechanism in there with switches. A stronger spring and stiffer switches might also help if you've already destroyed your original rubber knob like I have. Then again, I'm sure if you looked hard enough you could find a comparable replacement.

When i replaced my shifter knob with an aftermarket one (look at past posts), my friend actually milled me another exact shaft with threads on the end to screw on the new knob so i still have the original if i ever want to make it stock again. The new knob was heavier than the original and i had the same issue where it would not return to center. My friend cut me a few round metal shims of different thicknesses to try and worked like a charm. All it does is add a little more tension to the spring.

#5153 2 years ago
Quoted from cavalier88z24:

Got my decals in the mail mr.T i love them thank you. Great quality

You are welcome, and glad you like them.

#5154 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Glad to at least see that I'm not the only one who occasionally hacks off other members here

hahahahaha You don't strike me as that type.

#5155 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Okay, this post is for those of you who have done the led gear shifter mod. While the knob looks cool (at least to some of us), one of the side effects is how heavy it is since it is made from solid aluminum. Granted, aluminum is relatively light, but when compared to the original knob it is substantially heavier. The result, when you shift down the shifter does not return to center or if you shift up when you let go it bounces all the way down and again will not return to center.
So, I finally decided to try to do something about it. Disclaimer: I do not have a drill press, so things are not exactly centered - I did the best I could do with the tools I have. Also, I don't have any digital scales, so I had to borrow my wife's old kitchen scale (of course I didn't ask permission).
1. With a 1/2" bit drill the shaft opening clean through the material. This will still leave a small lip at the base of the knob that will stop the shaft when mounted.
2. With a 1/4" bit drill 6 "evenly spaced" holes about 1/2" deep or more if you feel lucky.
I was able to do mine without piercing the exterior of the knob, although I did pierce the inside shaft on most of my holes, but nothing serious enough to impact how the knob fits or performs. The total weight loss was a little less than 1/2 ounce. Not much, but a little more that 15% decrease. I'm sure I could have drilled slightly larger holes or taken the time to file away some more material, but chose to just go with my first effort.
The results? Well the shifter is noticeably snappier when down shifting as it pops right back to center without any help from my hand. When shifting up and letting go, it usually still will pass center and down shift if in video mode. However, it still returns to center on its own, and if I actually let go of it but let it hit my hand on the way down it performs perfectly. Is it as light as the original, of course not. But for me, it performs better with the little bit of material removed.
Of course, you could always attack the problem from the inside. While I've never taken my shifter knob apart, I assume there is some sort of spring mechanism in there with switches. A stronger spring and stiffer switches might also help if you've already destroyed your original rubber knob like I have. Then again, I'm sure if you looked hard enough you could find a comparable replacement.

That's a good job for not having a drill press, with a press I'll bet you could take off another 1/2 ounce.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Yeah, we've all seen your psychedelic GR carpet. Another thought, do you have any of those 70's black light posters on your walls? Was a little before my time, but remember my friends older siblings having them. Turn out the room lights and turn on the black light lamp . . . cool man!

The way I have my gr set up you walk into another part where the backs of 4 games are exposed to play 2 more. To dress up those 4 backs I put bl posters on them. They look great. 3 of the 4 posters are black flocked paper. They are the way to go for bl posters.

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#5156 2 years ago

UPDATED: LAST KEYCHAIN HAS BEEN SOLD!

Getaway owners, I was going through my stuff and discovered I have one keychain blank left. First one to PM me that they want it gets it for $7 delivered. I can do either a plain backglass or with custom initials on DMD for Getaway, or I will do just about anything else if you would rather have for another pin.

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#5157 2 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

When i replaced my shifter knob with an aftermarket one (look at past posts), my friend actually milled me another exact shaft with threads on the end to screw on the new knob so i still have the original if i ever want to make it stock again. The new knob was heavier than the original and i had the same issue where it would not return to center. My friend cut me a few round metal shims of different thicknesses to try and worked like a charm. All it does is add a little more tension to the spring.

So, if you have a replacement shaft then you had to take the assembly apart, I assume. Do you have any pics of the open gearshift box? Also, I'm not understanding your "metal shims", can you please explain in more detail or post pics (or directly me to link if already documented)?

#5158 2 years ago

Just picked up a nice stock getaway, is someone on pinside selling the Donut Heaven stickers, that stainless cover is begging for the sticker, saw several versions, and seeing there are over 100 pages in this thread, thought it would be easier to ask

#5159 2 years ago
Quoted from 80spit:

Just picked up a nice stock getaway, is someone on pinside selling the Donut Heaven stickers, that stainless cover is begging for the sticker, saw several versions, and seeing there are over 100 pages in this thread, thought it would be easier to ask

Welcome to the club!

I have designed several cover mods that you can either DIY or pay me to make them for you (I am relatively inexpensive, I think most would say). You can look at my download page and them PM me if you are interested in me making something for you: http://www.thezumwaltfamily.com/getawaypinball

Also, I have seen one other one, but it is not my design. It is based off a Duncan Donuts theme https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1016-lermods/00242-getaway-high-speed-2-hs2-donut-heaven-decal.

Then of course, you always have the Mezel Mods 3D printed version that you can also spruce up with some of my stickers. https://mezelmods.com/collections/the-getaway-high-speed-2-pinball-mods/products/getaway-high-speed-2-pinball-donut-heaven?variant=484985157

#5160 2 years ago

Awesome, great stuff, thanks I'll try my luck at printing first, if it doesn't come out nice, I'll be ordering
been looking for a nice getaway for a while, Its a great playing pin, at the top of my list right now

#5161 2 years ago

Holy 80spit that's a heck of pin collection you have. I assume you buy and sell all the time. PM me if you have something to sell. I'd like to get. 2nd sometime. EDIT; I see you are over 4 hours from me. Not sure I want to go that far. Still like to hear your story. Welcome to the club!

#5162 2 years ago

Now that I've added a few blue LED's into 2X & Super Jackpot inserts, I was wondering what all 3 jet/pop bumpers would look like with blue caps (http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/550-5057-05). Has anyone done this, and if so can you please post a pic or two (or link me to posts if you already have)?

#5163 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Now that I've added a few blue LED's into 2X & Super Jackpot inserts, I was wondering what all 3 jet/pop bumpers would look like with blue caps (http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/550-5057-05). Has anyone done this, and if so can you please post a pic or two (or link me to posts if you already have)?

I looked at those once. I kinda didn't like the jeweled look. But with a blue bulb they would pop I think.

#5164 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

So, if you have a replacement shaft then you had to take the assembly apart, I assume. Do you have any pics of the open gearshift box? Also, I'm not understanding your "metal shims", can you please explain in more detail or post pics (or directly me to link if already documented)?

Hey Mr T ,
Ill take a look when and see if i have any photos but trust me, just pull out your shifter and take it apart. It is probably the simplest mech out there. Its just a shaft that pivots on 2 metal plates and has a spring in the shaft that puts tension on the end of the shaft where it meets the plates. All you want to do is add something inside the shaft before you put the spring back in to add tension. You will totally get it if you just take out your shifter and have a look at how it works. Its super simple...trust me.

#5165 2 years ago

A few photos of the shifter that i could find. IMG_20160421_201959 (resized).jpgIMG_20160421_201617 (resized).jpgIMG_20160421_201626 (resized).jpgIMG_20160424_204224 (resized).jpg

#5166 2 years ago

The white tip that is covered in grease is spring loaded. Just add something down in the shaft before you slide the spring, and then the white tip back in.

#5167 2 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

The white tip that is covered in grease is spring loaded. Just add something down in the shaft before you slide the spring, and then the white tip back in.

Cool, thanks.

#5168 2 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

The white tip that is covered in grease is spring loaded. Just add something down in the shaft before you slide the spring, and then the white tip back in.

What do you mean by add something down in the shaft?

I'd like to increase the tension on my shifter to compensate for the extra weight on this knob.

Going to neutral from shifting up, it springs back on its own.

Going from shifting down to neutral it doesn't spring back. It requires a gentle nudge to get it back to neutral. It's just a tad too heavy.

#5169 2 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

What do you mean by add something down in the shaft?

I'd like to increase the tension on my shifter to compensate for the extra weight on this knob.

Going to neutral from shifting up, it springs back on its own.

Going from shifting down to neutral it doesn't spring back. It requires a gentle nudge to get it back to neutral. It's just a tad too heavy.

You can either stretch the spring or what i did was add a metal disk down the shaft before putting the spring and the white tip back in. Think of a tiny metal disk just slightly smaller than the diameter of the shaft. I guess you could also cut down a dowel and it would work but it doesnt take much. I think mine is about an eighth of an inch thick , maybe a bit thicker but not much. Im sure everyone will be a little different depending on the spring in yours and the weight of the new knob. Like i said , you could probably stretch the spring but it will be really hard to guess exactly how much and if you end up doing it too much your spring is shot. I had about 4 disks of different thickness , 1/16, 1/8, 3/16 , and 1/4 (something like that anyways) and just played around with different thickness on their own or combined until it put just the right amount of tension on the spring. Worked like a charm. Make sense ?

#5170 2 years ago

Now that i think of it, wood would probably not slide down very well and might get stuck. I was lucky enough to have my buddy cut me different sized disks on his metal lathe from an aluminum rod.

#5171 2 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Now that i think of it, wood would probably not slide down very well and might get stuck. I was lucky enough to have my buddy cut me different sized disks on his metal lathe from an aluminum rod.

So the idea is that you are adding compression to the spring in the tip of the shaft by making it shorter, right? This extra tension should result in more force to return a heavier shift knob to center. I've not taken mine apart yet, but I have a whole assortment of springs out in the garage. It would be interesting to find out if I have one of similar size but with greater "spring" to it that I could use as a replacement.

#5172 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

So the idea is that you are adding compression to the spring in the tip of the shaft by making it shorter, right? This extra tension should result in more force to return a heavier shift knob to center. I've not taken mine apart yet, but I have a whole assortment of springs out in the garage. It would be interesting to find out if I have one of similar size but with greater "spring" to it that I could use as a replacement.

Thats correct. Yep, if you find the right spring with the right tension that would work.

#5173 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

So the idea is that you are adding compression to the spring in the tip of the shaft by making it shorter, right? This extra tension should result in more force to return a heavier shift knob to center. I've not taken mine apart yet, but I have a whole assortment of springs out in the garage. It would be interesting to find out if I have one of similar size but with greater "spring" to it that I could use as a replacement.

I took mine apart and cleaned it up and it's really easy but you'll wish you had a third hand for putting it back together. Don't forget to put a glob of good grease where the nylon tip of the shaft rides. That's the only part in the assembly that needs grease.

#5174 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I took mine apart and cleaned it up and it's really easy but you'll wish you had a third hand for putting it back together.

Hmmm. i had no issues at all.

Quoted from MustangPaul:

Don't forget to put a glob of good grease where the nylon tip of the shaft rides. That's the only part in the assembly that needs grease.

I never put greese on mine. No issues from what i see.

#5175 2 years ago

There's was def some grease in mine when I opened mine up. Hell the manual even discusses occasionally applying lubrication. Not sure where to go to get the grease though, I guess Lowes.

#5176 2 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Hmmm. i had no issues at all.

Your better then me then.

#5177 2 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

There's was def some grease in mine when I opened mine up. Hell the manual even discusses occasionally applying librication. Not sure where to go to get the grease though, I guess Lowes.

I use Super Lube, got it off Ebay $3.99 for a 3 oz tube with free shipping. 3 oz will last you forever. It's also a Dielectric grease.

#5178 2 years ago

Damn, check fuse 114 and 115 popped up today. Fuses both check out. This should be a fun one

#5179 2 years ago

Well I bought the super lube. It'll be here Wednesday. I'll take the shifter apart then too. I have no clue how to increase the tension though...

#5180 2 years ago
Quoted from simplykind:

This should be a fun one

This means you don't have 12 volts. This is a easy circuit to work on. The smoothing cap may have leaked electrolyte and eroded a circuit trace. Pull the power driver board and post a pic of the component side.

#5181 2 years ago
Quoted from 80spit:

Awesome, great stuff, thanks I'll try my luck at printing first, if it doesn't come out nice, I'll be ordering
been looking for a nice getaway for a while, Its a great playing pin, at the top of my list right now

Awesome you got one Gerry. It's a fun game that I haven't tired of over the years.

#5182 2 years ago

I got mine via Lermods.

#5183 2 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Well I bought the super lube. It'll be here Wednesday. I'll take the shifter apart then too. I have no clue how to increase the tension though...

All you need to do is put some packing in behind the spring Superbee mentioned, a piece of plastic rod the same diameter as the white plastic tip would work fine, anything that will fit inside the end of the shaft but big enough to not go inside the spring

#5184 2 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

All you need to do is put some packing in behind the spring Superbee mentioned, a piece of plastic rod the same diameter as the white plastic tip would work fine, anything that will fit inside the end of the shaft but big enough to not go inside the spring

Ok I'll def take a look once I taker her off and open her up

#5185 2 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Ok I'll def take a look once I taker her off and open her up

In addition to the weight, which we have discussed, my hypothesis is that your spring may be worn a little (i.e. stretched out/limp/etc.) By compressing your spring just a little by making it shorter inside the shaft with the insertion of a spacer behind it then this will cause the spring to be more forceful.

In other words compressed springs apply increased force as they are compressed. While this may not be a purely scientific explanation, if a 1 inch spring is compressed to 1/2 inch then it has 1/2 inch of potential energy to return to its resting state. However, if that same 1" spring is compressed to 1/4 inch then it has 3/4 inch of potential energy so it wants to push harder to return to its resting state. That extra force may be enough to counter the added weight at the opposite end of the lever (shift rod). My suspicion is that you may need to both address the spring and the weight.

Personally, I would start with the spring to see what kind of improvement you achieve. If you see some improvement but still need more then let's work on the shifter knob's weight. Then again, I typically like to approach problems one element at a time. If you prefer to try to expedite things and do both, then by all means I am open to helping however I can.

#5186 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

This means you don't have 12 volts. This is a easy circuit to work on. The smoothing cap may have leaked electrolyte and eroded a circuit trace. Pull the power driver board and post a pic of the component side.

Had a bunch of people by yesterday and only tried a quick fix before turning it off. Thanks for the heads up on where to start, I'll take a crack at it this week.

#5188 2 years ago

So I picked up some AA lithium batteries to replace the alkaline ones in my HS2 and Slugfest machines. I knew there was some corrosion on the board of the Slugfest from a previous battery leaking when I bought it 3-4 months ago but when I looked at it today it seemed worse than I remembered. I cleaned it up best I could but my question is how worried should I be about this?

IMG_5005 (resized).JPG

#5189 2 years ago
Quoted from BudManPinFan:

how worried should I be about this?

This needs to be addressed ASAP!!! The battery holder should be cut off now to see the damage under it.

#5190 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

The battery holder should be cut off now to see the damage under it.

I'm sure you're right. I guess it was just wishful thinking on my part that it might not be so bad. I don't really have time right now to work on this so perhaps the best solution is to just take the board out and send it to someone who works on these. Any suggestions?

#5191 2 years ago
Quoted from BudManPinFan:

I'm sure you're right. I guess it was just wishful thinking on my part that it might not be so bad. I don't really have time right now to work on this so perhaps the best solution is to just take the board out and send it to someone who works on these. Any suggestions?

Clive @ coin op cauldron would be my 1st contact...

#5192 2 years ago

http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact/
He doesn't live to far from you either.

#5193 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact/
He doesn't live to far from you either.

Yeah after a little research he seems like a good choice given his proximity to me. I guess if you own 90's Williams pins you run into this eventually.

#5194 2 years ago

I bet if you cut off the battery holder and post a pic he might even PM you an estimate, or tell you if its too costly to repair.

#5195 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I bet if you cut off the battery holder and post a pic he might even PM you an estimate, or tell you if its too costly to repair.

Any suggestions on how best to cut it off without damaging the board?

#5196 2 years ago

amazon.com link »

This is what I use.

#5197 2 years ago

I'm interested in the progress of this battery/board project. I don't have the skill set to offer any help but following in case I get another pin that has this issue. Please post details as progress continues. Good luck.

#5198 2 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

I'm interested in the progress of this battery/board project. I don't have the skill set to offer any help but following in case I get another pin that has this issue. Please post details as progress continues. Good luck.

The best answer is to just remove the batteries and install a NVRAM chip.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/64#post-3383402

#5199 2 years ago

Good stuff but for those you have to desolder and remove the ram chip, then solder on a new socket so you can install the NVRAM.

Another option could be this...

https://www.tntamusementsstore.com/wptnt/product/franks-famous-battery-board/

Or a remote holder...

#5200 2 years ago

I couldn't agree more about changing to NVRAM. It's a whopping $15 these days. If you're not good at board repair have someone do it for you...but do it!

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