(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN


By MrSanRamon

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9,863 posts
  • 366 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 16 hours ago by Mr_Tantrum
  • Topic is favorited by 169 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic poll

“Which S/W Version do you use?”

  • L1 17 votes
    6%
  • L2 137 votes
    51%
  • L3 8 votes
    3%
  • L5 91 votes
    34%
  • P7 7 votes
    3%
  • C-C 7 votes
    3%

(Multiple choice - 267 votes by 266 Pinsiders)

Topic Gallery

There have been 3,013 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

pasted_image (resized).png
Getaway.JPG.pdf (PDF preview)
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
wires2.jpg
wires1.jpg
getaway005 (resized).jpg
IMG_2668.JPG
IMG_2667.JPG
IMG_2666.JPG
IMG_2665.JPG
IMG_2663.JPG
IMG_2657.JPG
CF4BA3F1-8798-42F5-93ED-C868E24872A8 (resized).jpeg
B2805FCB-7FE1-41B2-88BC-F12FD7E77765 (resized).jpeg
8F41C362-51A9-4EAA-904F-5D215BB0EFD8 (resized).jpeg

There are 9863 posts in this topic. You are on page 10 of 198.
#451 4 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

I've hit the super jackpot a few times in redline mania but it only gives me 50m. That's the same in multiball but thought it was 100m. I don't watch the score so not sure if the display is wrong. Anyone else's do this?

In Red Line Mania if you get 50 mil- then load the S.Charger again then Lock a Ball U Do get 100 Mil--

I've done it like 3 times since owning HS2 ...... Cradle 1 ball & work the other or other's ..

Reg- Multi-ball , Yr award N millions is , 25 , 50 , 75 ... L2 game rom

#452 4 years ago

Okay, I did that once in multiball. For some reason, I usually choke in multiball play but once in a while I can get a cradle and get some good shots. I just can't figure out why it says super is worth 100m at the start of redline mania when it really is 50m. I know it goes up but that makes no sense.

#453 4 years ago

Just added pinbits stainless flaps looks awesome! Old up/down flap was FUBAR!

image.jpg image-390.jpg image-722.jpg
#454 4 years ago

What rivets did you use to do that??

#455 4 years ago

Kicker assembly reassembled and installed.

Way behind but I'll be working through the night starting at about 9pm.

Kick_Assembly_Ready.jpg

#456 4 years ago
Quoted from tilted81:

Just added pinbits stainless flaps looks awesome! Old up/down flap was FUBAR!

How did you attach those?

#457 4 years ago

The flaps come with press on rivets. I used a 3" c-clamp that I bought at menards.. It was a cheapo, then modified it to work.. It was pretty simple and I can post pics if anyone's interested. I think the clamp was like 5 bucks or less.

#458 4 years ago
Quoted from tilted81:

The flaps come with press on rivets. I used a 3" c-clamp that I bought at menards.. It was a cheapo, then modified it to work.. It was pretty simple and I can post pics if anyone's interested. I think the clamp was like 5 bucks or less.

I sure am please!

#459 4 years ago

Making some progress. Polished up and tuned up everything under the apron, cleaned the apron of the old residue and advertisement stickers, polished up the right habit trail, re-installed it and the lock ball switches that go to it.

We're getting there...!

20141018_121940.jpg20141018_124237.jpg20141018_185748.jpg20141018_213239.jpg20141018_213604.jpg20141018_221012.jpg20141018_231422.jpg20141018_231510.jpg20141018_231909.jpg20141019_000902.jpg20141019_003751.jpg20141019_004511.jpg

#460 4 years ago

Looks great!

#461 4 years ago

U got carpal Tunnel yet from All the Polish-n ? I will say when me & S.tastic shop'd my HS2 , i Polished All the metal down to Every screw ... My hands & finger's were WORE out .. lOOk-n gOOd bro !!

#462 4 years ago

Under the apron is the first thing I clean with every game I buy....except a new one that is. I did the same as your doing under the apron when I bought mine but mine was MUCH worse.

#463 4 years ago

More progress.....

Got the Donut Shop back on as well as the traffic light. Now, I am working on polishing the SC track. The magnet assembly I do not want to mess with, so I'll take some AL polish, some rags, a long screw driver and get "in the magnet tunnel" really well. Cleaning the optos with glass cleaner as well. Already changed out withe diverter's coil sleeve, cleaned and polished the arm mechanism, and reassembled it.

Is the diverter's arm linkage supposed to have play in it - meaning - is the linkage supposed to simply pivot for the arm to move, or is the linkage also supposed to be able to move side to side as WELL AS pivot? I'll get a video up in a bit to visually show what I'm trying to describe...

20141019_011636.jpg
20141019_012644.jpg20141019_013655.jpg20141019_014946.jpg20141019_021936.jpg

#464 4 years ago

Pictured is the 3" clamp. I simply pulled off the bottom part and found that when I flipped it around the bottom part of the river fit perfectly. The last pic is of the 2" clamp I originally used on the up/down ramp... It wasn't quite big enough for the supercharger ramp.. The nice thing about the smaller one tho.. It crushed the rivet on the bottom side so I know the rivet won't come out. The bigger one did too but not as well. Your also gonna need a small hole bunch for piping out the old rivets after ya drill off the backs. It turned out so well I wanna do it on my sttng but I'm afraid I'd crack the plastic ramps popping out the old rivets

image.jpg image-350.jpg image-649.jpg image-304.jpg image-975.jpg image-983.jpg
#465 4 years ago

Tilted81 - did you replace the flap on the up/down lock ramp or just the supercharger? Mine is cracked. It seems to work okay for now but would like to replace it someday.

Love all the pics, NewPinOwner. Thanks for posting.

#466 4 years ago

Both. That first pic is of the up/down ramp here is a pic installed looks amazing

image-138.jpg
#467 4 years ago

If you zoom on that first pic the old flap is the one next to it.. Not only is it rusted but it's cracked on both sides... It was just a matter of time before it failed. Also was a good excuse for cleaning and waxing.

#468 4 years ago

I think I figured out why balls got snagged in the back going up the left rpm lane. The second switch stood tall and square. Looking at the front switch and others, it should lay down more and be more triangle shape. Not sure if that makes sense. Anyways, I think the ball was sometimes hiting that switch on the side which was like hitting a wall. If the ball hit the switch on a direct path from the front, it was fine. I bent it down and out so its lower and has a better profile. I could only play a few games this morning but the ball seems a lot smoother going through there.

#469 4 years ago
Quoted from tilted81:

Both. That first pic is of the up/down ramp here is a pic installed looks amazing

image-138.jpg 106 KB

Is the flap listing on pinbits for both the lock ramp and supercharger?

#470 4 years ago

Yep. I also asked Pam for a couple extra rivets (being as it was my first time messing with these) and she hooked it up. Which was a good thing as I lost one in my garage somewhere lol! Just post in the comment section at checkout. Also, watch out on those old flaps, sliced my thumb pretty good while I cleaning the ramp

#471 4 years ago

Supercharger is coming along.....

20141019_130449.jpg20141019_130216.jpg

#472 4 years ago

Supercharger back in place. All optos transmitters and receivers cleaned with glass cleaner, solder joints re-heated, extra solder on each, all continuity checks done to ensure joints are good. Taking a break and getting lunch with my better half, then back in I go to finish it.

20141019_144137.jpg20141019_145427.jpg20141019_151428.jpg20141019_151438.jpg

#473 4 years ago

Game is back together. It is saying I have a bad opto - literally - it says "bad opto" for #3 in the test mode. I have voltage at the transmitter. Is this just a case of misalignment, or is there something I can do to 100% confirm it is a bad opto?

#474 4 years ago

I'd make sure all your connections are good first. It's possible to be misaligned, just make sure they meet up through the openings but If you didn't take any of it apart it's prolly not the problem. You can check to make sure the optos are working by taking a picture of them? Apparently in a photo you can see the ir beams? I've never done it but there are posts about it.

#475 4 years ago

Also make sure there isn't a piece of cotton, or paper or whatever on the opto that you used to clean it with.

#476 4 years ago

It's got to be something Simple , It wasn't show-n a prob- untill U tore it down ,, Take the S.C back off , check it out and Re-Install it .. U did say U added more soldier 2 the opto's etc ,, where soldier is , check those Point's & the Tip's from the guy's above .. Good Luck

#477 4 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

or is there something I can do to 100% confirm it is a bad opto?

Get back N 2 S.C Test ,, block each Magnet opto w/ a Flathead screw driver ( be careful ) check for the Break in Test on the DMD ..

#478 4 years ago

Coincidentally, the F103 fuse finally bit the dust tonight and the SC was totally dead. The hint was no power at pins #1-3 on J106 of the accelerator PCB. Traced back to the power driver board and still no voltage. Ultimately, this guy's website saved me on that one:

http://www.aaarpinball.com/Getaway/getaway.htm

Couple other things....

The ball lock switches had to be adjusted as they were not letting the balls roll out at the start pf multiball. Also, waiting on a new plunger as mine is nearly a spear from being played so much. It's firing the ball everywhere but "in the loop" at the beginning. I know the mounting of the shooter lane solenoid needs to be adjusted, but until the new plunger comes in this needs to wait as it would be pointless to do it with a "wonky" shaped plunger.

Back to the main problem....checked all SC optos in switch test mode. Took #2 and #3 transmitters and swapped them, meaning I desoldered #3 and moved it to #2's spot and vice versa - no effect - the problem did not "follow the move" so to speak. Getting voltage on all transmitters of about 1.58V. Took a photo of the transmitter in question - bright purple light showing clearly. I went to the accelerator board and disconnected, reconnected, and wiggled all the connectors trying to make the opto trigger out of "bad" - no effect.

Next.... ?

HS2 is being a brat, but we'll get it worked out.

#479 4 years ago

^^

Keep on trucking! I finally got HSII tonight reassembled after installing the CPR plastics. Fixed the up/down ramp, and wouldn't you know it, the diverter stopped working. Turned out to be an easy fix (the wires were caught underneath the diverter and stopped it from moving), but of course, one of my freeway switches shit the bed. More money for marco.

I've pretty much had a permanent credit dot since bringing her home, but I love the game!

#480 4 years ago

What about the reciever optos? Did you only swap the transmitters? And your saying that you saw the light on all of them right? I'd re-seat the connector on the 3 opto board.. While I was diagnosing sc speed problems on mine I also lightly sanded the pins to make sure I had good contact.

#481 4 years ago

^^ I assume when you say "3 opto board", you mean the accelerator board? Just making sure I am not missing something.

#482 4 years ago

Nope the board just to the right of it a-160981 or something like that.. It's a lot smaller than the accelerator board

#483 4 years ago

A-13901 ha I was shootin from the hip

#484 4 years ago

:(I'm mistaken the optos are triggered off of the accelerator board. Which kinda DOES make more sense. I think we are above my pay rate.

#485 4 years ago

It's ok tilted . We'll get it!

So, here's what I have done so far.

1. Checked transmitter for voltage. Received about 1.58V DC.
2. Verified light coming from transmitter with camera phone.
3. Swapped transmitters with one of the known working ones.
4. Swapped the receiver with a brand new one.
5. Checked fuse F103 and replaced as during the troubleshooting it blew and I lost all SC functionality. Once F103 was changed, the revolving light and magnets 1 and 2 came back online, but magnet 3 is still disabled due to opto 3 being stuck open.
6. Took off all connectors to the accelerator board and put them all back on and wiggled all of them.
7. Disconnected and reconnected the molex connectors where the wiring harness "meet" so the SC can be removed from the game.

I'm doing my homework but am starting to run out of ideas. My next thought is to remove the accelerator board and reflow all the solder joints to be safe. Can't imagine I did anything to any of the joints, but it is possible.

#486 4 years ago

Did some small things tonight.

New cliffy in-lane protectors
New shooter lane plunger
Re-aligned shooter lane plunger assembly and widened shooter lane's right metal wall. This allowed the ball to "make the loop" at the beginning of each ball again! Once the adjustment screw had been moved, I had to drill a very small hole in the PF for the accompanying "anchor" screw to have a place to reside. It's the only way to ensure the right metal wall will not wiggle back into place; there was no pre-drilled hole. With the anchor screw in place, there's no way the right metal wall can make its way back - this is of course if your adjustment screw is not solidly in place. Me....rather than hope the adjustment screw will hold in place, I prefer to have a fail-safe

Will continue diagnosing opto problem tomorrow.

Cliffy_Left.jpgCliffy_Right.jpgShooter_Lane_Plunger.jpg

#487 4 years ago

I somehow came across BR's supercharger videos again and my Getaway happens to be in pieces on the floor as I'm motivated to clean and tweak my supercharger (and install CPR plastics while I'm at it).

When putting back the supercharger though, my ramp is crushing the clear loop plastic (or rather the ramp sits about 1cm above where it should, because the clear loop plastic is in the way). I can't tell from my pictures if this plastic was originally just crushed down or what. This isn't my machine but I have the same sized spacers between the red and clear plastics. Anyone else have this issue or can think of something I might be doing wrong? All the supercharger screw holes line up perfectly, but this plastic is just slightly in the way. I'm going to just put smaller nylon spacers between the two plastics if I can't figure anything else out.

getramp.png

#488 4 years ago

I have the same issue on mine. The plastics is crushed and bent a little because of the supercharger. I'm not sure if it's normal or not.

#489 4 years ago

hmmm, let me lOOk @ mine .. Be back later

#490 4 years ago

Still hoping someone can tell me the number on their flipper coils. The main 2. Mine feel week after I swapped them out with the recommended.

#491 4 years ago

The recommended being FL-11629 (blue)? That's what I've got and what's recommended in the manual. FL-11630 for the upper flipper. What coils do you have in yours?

If your FL-11629 is weak it's probably not the coil itself. Check your EOS switches, are they normally closed? Flipper not dragging the playfield?

#492 4 years ago

Shouldn't that be the other way around? I thought the 30's are for the main flippers and the 29 for the upper.

#493 4 years ago

Holy crap! I just looked at my manual, and the 29's are indeed the lower flippers and the 30 for the upper. I put it the opposite when I just did a rebuild. I'll have to look up where I saw the other numbers. No wonder I can't backhand the supercharger.

#494 4 years ago
Quoted from Geocab:

Holy crap! I just looked at my manual, and the 29's are indeed the lower flippers and the 30 for the upper. I put it the opposite when I just did a rebuild. I'll have to look up where I saw the other numbers. No wonder I can't backhand the supercharger.

I think I did the same thing, it is what Pinball Life recommonded and I followed it like a sheep. The good news is, I had ordered the others as well and then "corrected" my mistake so I have the other 2 ready to go.

#495 4 years ago

Crap, nevermind, I did order the 29's. I will check my flippers before I play this next. I typically work on projects more than play completed ones...

#496 4 years ago

Replaced my spacers with 3/16" nylon spacers. The part fits perfect now, no crushing. No idea how this was supposed to work with the big spacers, but I'm happy. SC time is in the 90s, unfortunately not insane like you guys.

image.jpg
#497 4 years ago

BOOM. Got it!!!!!!!

It was a bad transmitter. Be VERY careful how much faith you put in the idea of swapping transmitters...

I say that because I did it, and it was not until I introduced a completely new opto transmitter that I fixed the problem.

Video explaining things below. Pictures are from when the shop job was initially complete. I didn't want to share them until I figured out the problem. BOOM!

Once again, WeirPinball came in and saved the day. Thank you for your help, Scott!

Cleaned_up.jpg

Cleaned_up_2.jpg

Cleaned_up_3.jpg

Cleaned_up_4.jpg

Cleaned_up_5.jpg

Cleaned_up_6.jpg

#498 4 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

BOOM. Got it!!!!!!!
It was a bad transmitter. Be VERY careful how much faith you put in the idea of swapping transmitters...
I say that because I did it, and it was not until I introduced a completely new opto transmitter that I fixed the problem.
Video explaining things below. Pictures are from when the shop job was initially complete. I didn't want to share them until I figured out the problem. BOOM!
Once again, WeirPinball came in and saved the day. Thank you for your help, Scott!
» YouTube video

Cleaned_up_6.jpg 72 KB

Cleaned_up.jpg 99 KB

Cleaned_up_2.jpg 94 KB

Cleaned_up_4.jpg 80 KB

Cleaned_up_3.jpg 122 KB

Cleaned_up_5.jpg 73 KB

#499 4 years ago

Funny thing happened to me today. I had a delayed tilt right before I shot a 3rd lock. The ball went to the lock and never drained. The game got confused, dumped all three balls but played as normal, not multiball. I shot the supercharger and then video mode. Flippers went dead for video mode so I lost the third ball. During video mode, the other ball stayed in the supercharger - that was cool. I got another lock and then it went to multiball.

There are other times that my Getaway gets confused. After the first multiball, sometimes it starts multiball with just one lock. Anyone else have that happen?

#500 4 years ago

Hey fellow Getaway owners (or those that have worked on one in the past ). I'm currently reassembling the rear area of mine and found a lot of white grease all over the ramp lifter shaft and bracket it fits in. I've cleaned it all out but wanted to ask if this is necessary? Obviously this baby's going into some sweet home use only status so what's up with the grease? I know it's metal against metal so sometimes grease is used but I thought by 1992 that was a no-no. I wasn't going to put any but just wanted to ask the group what they do? I got me some PBR Contact Grease that I use on EM steppers I could apply a light coat but I really don't want to use any at all.

TELL ME WHAT YOU DO WITH YOUR GETAWAY'S AFTER YOU'VE TORN THE SUPERCHARGER RAMP APART??

Which is a lot of fun by the way.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 8.50
Lighting - Led
Pinball Haus
$ 99.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Sales
$ 159.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
€ 3.70
There are 9863 posts in this topic. You are on page 10 of 198.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside