(Topic ID: 260567)

Getaway Beacon Light works but motor won’t turn on

By HTMM

4 years ago


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  • 15 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by HTMM
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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Triac boards (resized).jpg
Getaway beacon power jump (resized).jpg
#1 4 years ago

I’ve had My Getaway for 10yrs and the beacon just stopped rotating (during game play and in test mode) So I have replaced the Triac board with a new one from Gulf Pinball and replaced the motor and the motor still won’t rotate but the light does come on when it’s supposed to. I know the motor is good, (both old and new motors are good) because I can get them to work if I hook them up to an external bench power supply @ 14vac.
I have also shorted the Q22 driver transistor to ground as a test and that also just turns on the light but not the motor.
One thing I’m not sure on, when I’m checking the ac voltage into the motor, should I have at least 12vac on each wire individually or only when reading across both input wires?
I have 17vac when reading across both white-red input wires to the beacon, But 9.5 vac and 8.5 vac on each wire individually. I’m thinking that’s why the light works because there is enough voltage for the light but not the motor?

#2 4 years ago
Quoted from HTMM:

I have 17vac when reading across both white-red input wires to the beacon

This is how to check AC voltage. I think you need to check the resistor board for cracked solder joints or bad resistor.

#3 4 years ago

Ok. I replaced both resistors and re-flowed all the solder joints on the resistor board and its still the same. Next step would be to start redoing all the molex connectors I assume?

#4 4 years ago
Quoted from HTMM:

I have replaced the Triac board

What voltage are you getting at the triac board? Schematic says J3 pins 1, 4, and 5 should be 48v AC. J3-1 is coming from circuitry on the board but J3-4 & 5 are just passed through a fuse.

#5 4 years ago

Update...

jumping the ac power from J105 on the driver board directly to the beacon connector, motor and light work fine. So i'm thinking its a connector between J105 and the output of the resistor board.

Getaway beacon power jump (resized).jpgGetaway beacon power jump (resized).jpg
#6 4 years ago

The 48 volts is an error in the manual.

#7 4 years ago

Not much left but a connector issue.

#8 4 years ago

Make sure the metal bracket is not catching or binding as it turns. Take off the dome, loosen the set screw and pull it up and re-tighten.

#9 4 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

The 48 volts is an error in the manual.

What is the correct value?

#10 4 years ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

What is the correct value?

17.2vac is what I'm seeing. Makes sense since the motor is marked as 12vac

#11 4 years ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

What is the correct value?

12 volt AC.

#12 4 years ago

Update #2

If I connect the ac input plug that goes to the Triac board to the input side of the resistor board, Light and motor work fine. so I'm left with just the "new" Triac board as the culprit. I bought it from Marco, but its made by Gulf Pinball. Doing a side by side comparison, Some of the resistor values are different from the original board. R1 specifically is 330 ohm on the original, but 680 ohm on the Gulf Pinball board (see photo).

I'm thinking the new board won't pass enough current to drive the motor due to the higher resistor values?

Triac boards (resized).jpgTriac boards (resized).jpg
7 months later
#13 3 years ago

7 months later..... Did you ever figure it out ? I have the exact same issue, with the exact same "gulf pinball" board.

1 month later
#14 3 years ago

Sadly I have been ignoring it all this time. I think I will try replacing U1 on the original triac board and see if that does it. Im not sure what else I can try.

1 year later
#15 2 years ago

Ok, I'm back to working this issue and I think I have it fixed.

So I bought another Triac board ( Homepin.com Rev 1.3 from Pinball Life) and both light and motor worked... 7 out of 10 times. The motor would get "stuck" when first turning on and if I gave it a light tap, it would work for at least that cycle.

Out of desperation, I replaced the incandescent bulb with a red led one ( #1157). This brought the bulb draw on the circuit from 2.25 amps to 0.25 amps. 2 weeks now and both light and motor have worked 100% of the time!

The only theory I have is now there are more amps available to get the motor to start turning. Possibly the triac board did not allow enough current to flow to get the motor started when the incandescent bulb was in.

Anyway, as long as it keeps working, I'm done with this issue!

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