(Topic ID: 191743)

Get away from me Getaway


By snyper2099

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 27 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by snyper2099
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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#1 1 year ago

I started this last week. I've owned it for a few years but never had the ambition to start it until now. Here's what I started with...

Game boots and has never been shopped. Has original black rubbers. Has a really bad cabinet that needs to be repaired and reinforced.

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#2 1 year ago

Here's some of the work I did on Saturday with the help of a good friend:

Socket and installed NVRAM, cleaned minor acid off MPU, repaired 2 GI connectors on driver board, repaired trace going to q107, sanded cabinet and head.

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#3 1 year ago

Yesterday I tore in on the playfield... yeah it's beyond dirty but it's actually in really solid condition.

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#4 1 year ago

Good stuff! I did one of these also and it was a fun project. Check my post history to see!

#5 1 year ago

Good progress so far. I also did a full restore on my Getaway not that long ago. Check out my thread.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-getaway-cabinet-restoration

#6 1 year ago

Following along !

#7 1 year ago

10 hours of cleaning later, the playfield is looking better.

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#8 1 year ago

Pro tip - remove those pop bumpers.

Under the skirts is probably very dirty. More-so, the mechs get the most abuse next to the flippers.
It's takes a bit of effort to take them off, but replacing the bodies and skirts will make them look brand new and only cost a few bucks! Plus you can get creative with the colors if you're so inclined. The transparent bodies look pretty sweet, also
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/transparent-sternballywilliams-pop-bumper-bodies

I now also replace the fiber/metal yokes underneath. Plus this will give you the chance to polish the pop bumper rings.
Cleaning the whole mech and replacing the coil sleeve is also a must as they're likely filthy.

#9 1 year ago

That's nice of you but this is not my first rodeo. I consider the PF pictured, my first pass. I plan to clean it twice more, eventually removing everything. I just finished the plastics. They are drying...

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#10 1 year ago

I don't have many pictures of the cabinet restoration but the bottom just needs the stuff screwed back down...

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#11 1 year ago

Putting everything back in the cabinet...

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1 week later
#12 1 year ago

More cleaning. Rails and new posts are in place.
I know, I know... I forgot to clean the white standups.

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#13 1 year ago

Might I suggest...

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#14 1 year ago

Very nice. Makes me miss my old getaway

#15 1 year ago

Great great game and totally worth the effort that you're putting into it! Looks like it's cleaning up very nicely so far too, good job!

#16 1 year ago

Im in the process of retheming my HS2. Added a pinsound card and other custom mods.

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#17 1 year ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

Might I suggest...

Nah, those are plastic repros. They never reproduced the original carbon fiber style ones, to my knowledge. I stick with original parts, as long as they are not broken.

#18 1 year ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

Quoted from Jjsmooth:
Might I suggest...
Nah, those are plastic repros. They never reproduced the original carbon fiber style ones, to my knowledge

Huh? They are just plain ole pop bumper bodies no?

#19 1 year ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Huh? They are just plain ole pop bumper bodies no?

In some games, yes. In other games, no.

There is a distinct difference between a standard bright white plastic pop bumper body and one reinforced with carbon fibers. The ones with carbon fibers are much more common in early Williams games like Firepower and Barracora, but I do see them on 90's machines from time to time like Getaway and Funhouse (especially ones with DP play fields).

They are also thicker, much stronger, and not as brittle. They appear much darker and are more transparent than the shiny white ones. I will attempt to track down one of each style/type in my parts pile as an example to try and show the differences when smashing each with a hammer.

The pinball manufacturers sourced parts from different companies back in the day... I suspect that when they ran out of something, they just used whatever they could locate quickly on the assembly lines back in 90's pinball heyday. This could account for the different materials/plastics being used for the same Bally/Williams part #'s. The grayish carbon fiber ones are just an oddity that I prefer.

#20 1 year ago

Interesting. I honestly had no idea.

#21 1 year ago

I booted the game for the first time in 3 years.

There were 3 locked on lines to the far left of the DMD. On a whim, I socketed and replaced the u24 6264 ram IC on the DMD controller Pcb and that resolved the problem.

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#22 1 year ago

I spent couple hours leveling inserts. The worst of them were the white RPM triangles, and the FREE RIDE insert.

Today,... found one open diode on a lamp board and once I replaced that, all lamps test working 100% now.

I also reassembled the beacon topper.

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#23 1 year ago

Just one more ramp to go on this thing. Hopefully will be playable tomorrow..

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#24 1 year ago

Had two switch rows completely missing... I swapped MPU out of my JD to determine it was the MPU.

Then I broke out the magnifying glass and high intensity light to track down 5, yes FIVE damn open traces around the U19 IC. Played the first game on it last night and it is very fast. I actually made the lock ramp with a backhand from the left flipper. I love fast games!

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#25 1 year ago

Looks good, hillbilly.

#26 1 year ago

Game looks amazing, nice work!

1 week later
#27 1 year ago

Couple more minor adjustments. Had to tighten the left flipper bat and reconnect an EOS wire. Also discovered a missing flasher bulb under the left ball guide.

Still to go:
Reinstall traffic light
Figure out why sometimes the balls are not sitting in the locks properly
Stabilize power switch under cabinet
Upgrade speaker system
Under ramp LED strip lighting
Instruction card(s)

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