Oklahoma City, OK
Quoted from libtech:OK DIY Beacons - coming soon!
The ones used from the factory are these: order 12v in the colour of your choice (I could see all looking sweet, I ordered yellow, but was actually really tempted by green...)
ebay.com link
Youll also need some molex pins so you can pop in in the wireing harness and disconnect when you take the head off, I bought these since they have a connector also in case I ordered the wrong size but it appears to be .063
ebay.com link
I also ordered some LED lamps for the beacons, I didnt have any 'tower' style ones in the tickle trunk
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/8smdg18tower.htm
Youll also need two rubber grommets for the holes in the metal for the wire, some heat shrink and some wire and solder. Also a can of black spray paint in your choice of gloss.
I'll post some install pics in a month or so once everything arrives (parts come from china and usually take 2-6weeks) The only other part we may need is a power relay but I doubt it - I have to check the max current for the transistor used, the beacons should draw 1.6A each/3.2A total.
Giving this idea some more thought, I'm probably going to go with just one beacon. I think I'm going to tie it in to the airlock scoop. My game room is full of other light sources and I'm afraid the beacon running full time will be too much. Watching game play videos, the ball spends plenty of time in the scoop for 5-10 seconds at a time. Tied to the scoop the beacon would light up to coincide with the alert tone and MU/TH/UR's callouts. Since the game lacks flashers a somewhat interactive beacon light could be a cool addition.
On a different note, I have it in my mind to design a topper that looks like a P-5000 loader. I envision a single beacon on top with a little PVC pipe painted yellow to simulate the top of the protective cage. Maybe a graphic or something that extends down the sides of the backbox, which are bare an unadorned as shipped. Just thinking...
