(Topic ID: 259284)

Genie Upper Drop Target Bottom Switches Photo


By Genieye

45 days ago



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  • 11 posts
  • 2 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 39 days ago by Genieye
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#1 45 days ago

I know this is a long shot but am hoping someone either has a photo or knows where I can find the wiring configuration of the 2 switches that are under the upper drop target box. They evidently score 10 points when the targets fall and more importantly are in the R Extra Ball circuit. The extra ball light comes one but does not register one when the switch is depressed. Same color wiring as the switch too so am certain they are the problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.

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#2 45 days ago

Kind of odd the things that people disconnect.... I wonder if someone had changed the rubber in the past and the switches got locked on and this was their solution? (Common issue with the rubber that new owners don't catch).

The return wires are the brown-green-green ones on the left in your pic, they get connected to the blade of the standup 10 pt switches that does not have the diode on it.

The strobe wires are the black-brown-brown ones, these go to the banded end of the diode on the standup switch. On the plus side, since they are the same you could just twist them together if you don't have the standups, and your extra ball target should work. (It's likely not working because the wiring chain is broken here.)

#3 45 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

Kind of odd the things that people disconnect.... I wonder if someone had changed the rubber in the past and the switches got locked on and this was their solution? (Common issue with the rubber that new owners don't catch).
The return wires are the brown-green-green ones on the left in your pic, they get connected to the blade of the standup 10 pt switches that does not have the diode on it.
The strobe wires are the black-brown-brown ones, these go to the banded end of the diode on the standup switch. On the plus side, since they are the same you could just twist them together if you don't have the standups, and your extra ball target should work. (It's likely not working because the wiring chain is broken here.)

These are the switches and the jumper wire. Neither switch has a diode as I believe the diodes on these are on a separate board. I sure could use a good map of what goes where as these are hard to get to at the very bottom of the PF and I would rather not have to pull the box as you have the coils and 7 switches on top to disconnect. I truly appreciate your help on this!!

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#4 45 days ago

Here is a better picture of them. THANKS!

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#5 45 days ago

Connect 2 jumpers from one switch to the next, same lugs, then connect the 2 same colors wires to one of the lugs, then the other set of wires to the other lug. It's an advantage to have the remote mounted diodes, since you don't have to worry about which lug the wires go to (as long as they aren't normally closed).

The jumper wires parallel the switch.... the important thing is to have the 4 wires in your original pic with the like colors together on the same lug.

jumper jumper
switch 1 lug 1----------------------switch 2 lug 1 switch 1 lug 2--------------------switch 2 lug 2
|| one set of like color wire || other set of like color wire

#6 45 days ago

well, pinside decided to trim the extra spaces, jumper switch 1 lug 1 to switch 2 lug 1
jumper switch 1 lug 2 to switch 2 lug 2

attach the brown-green-green wires (both of them) to switch 1 lug 1
attach the black-brown-brown wires (both of them) to switch 1 lug 2

That's the easiest way to get it back together.

#7 45 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

well, pinside decided to trim the extra spaces, jumper switch 1 lug 1 to switch 2 lug 1
jumper switch 1 lug 2 to switch 2 lug 2
attach the brown-green-green wires (both of them) to switch 1 lug 1
attach the black-brown-brown wires (both of them) to switch 1 lug 2
That's the easiest way to get it back together.

Man that is awesome! Getting to work. Cannot thank you enough. I will let you know if that fixes the problem but confident it will.

#8 45 days ago
Quoted from Genieye:

Man that is awesome! Getting to work. Cannot thank you enough. I will let you know if that fixes the problem but confident it will.

PIA but fixed and it works great thanks to you today. That was the last thing on the list to figure out and fix and now she is playing like a champ. I just hope it continues. Really appreciate it.

#9 39 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

well, pinside decided to trim the extra spaces, jumper switch 1 lug 1 to switch 2 lug 1
jumper switch 1 lug 2 to switch 2 lug 2
attach the brown-green-green wires (both of them) to switch 1 lug 1
attach the black-brown-brown wires (both of them) to switch 1 lug 2
That's the easiest way to get it back together.

I do not give up easy but this one has me stumped. No matter how I wire the bottom switches the 3rd Red Upper Drop Target will not register and therefore the Special does not light up and the Red Targets will not reset. All the other targets register points and when all 7 are down the Extra Ball Lite comes on like it should and they reset.

I hope over time someone has an idea or a photo of how those 2 lower targets are wired. I have tried all different combinations and that switch just wont register. Do these switches go bad? They almost seem to be indestructible unless one of the lugs breaks.

#10 39 days ago
Quoted from Genieye:

Do these switches go bad? They almost seem to be indestructible unless one of the lugs breaks.

Disabuse yourself of that notion right now. Switches go bad all the time on machines, usually because someone in the past filed off the gold plating (operators were used to EM switches, which did need some light sanding/filing every once in a long while.... as soon as solid state game out, most manufacturers put stickers and notices in the documentation to NOT file anything other than high power (i.e. flipper) switches.... which most operators ignored).

While it's rare that a switch blade will snap off, with leaf switches lasting many factors longer than microswitches, it's the contact that's the weak point.

#11 39 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

Disabuse yourself of that notion right now. Switches go bad all the time on machines, usually because someone in the past filed off the gold plating (operators were used to EM switches, which did need some light sanding/filing every once in a long while.... as soon as solid state game out, most manufacturers put stickers and notices in the documentation to NOT file anything other than high power (i.e. flipper) switches.... which most operators ignored).
While it's rare that a switch blade will snap off, with leaf switches lasting many factors longer than microswitches, it's the contact that's the weak point.

Thanks for responding to me. I appreciate your help more than you know. The switches look good and never have been filed. The lugs are solid. Again here is a photo of them. As you know these are the 10 point switches under the upper target box. I don't even see either of them scoring any points when I manually depress them. Each upper target scores points when dropped except the 3rd Red one as discussed.

Something is making the 3rd Red Target not score when dropped and therefore they do not reset nor does the Special lite come on. Everything else associated with those switches works fine such as Extra Ball etc. I am starting to think it is something else but I have no idea unless that switch is bad but it sure looks ok.

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