Did you lift up that playfield while the game was powered on?

When you power on the game what is it exactly doing?
I’m just trying to get a clear idea of what problems your having since I’m not there and the game is not in front of me.
I’m really trying to help..

Yes it could have that's why its always better to work on a machine while its powered off.You may have caused a short.
im doing more reading in your post

Did you check the tilt switch to see that they are not gapped together?and plum bob tilt in the lower part of the cabinet also did you check the main fuse to see if it has blown?
From looking at the pics everything looks to quite normal and nothing out of place,Ok the 2 coils for the drop targets are not firing.Most likely the fuse to those coils has blown,Check the transistors that run/control those coils.Test them with a meter with the power off,Do you know how to test transistors with a meter?

when testing fuses are you pulling them out and checking with meter?
Open then backbox and reseat all the connectors on the boards,its possible when you raised the playfield it may have pulled the wiring a bit to hard and connector came loose

To test transistor power off the game set meter to continuity,Place black probe onto ground(grey metal strap).With red probe touch the tab of transistor,If you hear a beep from meter that means transistor is bad/shorted

Common Electronic Issues.
Battery corrosion (from the on-the-MPU-board battery) is the major cause of repair on this series of games. This also compromises the card edge style connectors going to the MPU board, meaning these often need to be re-pinned. Ground issues are also another nagging problem with this system, causing game lock ups and burnt coils. Additionally, since the game uses custom “spider” chips on the MPU board, there are a large number of unavailable parts for this board. companies like NiWhumpf have developed a replacement MPU board.I know you have stated that you have this new board in your game

The switches under PF are suppossed to be open that's correct,no other switches besides the relay

it should be located in the backbox on the board,check the power supply board

Something to keep in mind Gottlieb didn’t mount switch diodes directly to the switches. Instead they mounted the 1n270 diodes under the playfield on a diode board. Though switch columns (returns) don’t used diodes (the rows do)..This is if no wires came loose off one of the switches and if a wire came loose then the other switches going upstream in that column will not work.(This is just a note for later on if you run into a switch problem.

Quick question are the ground mods done on your game?

Just adding notes to this thread ok

Problem: Game goes to "GAME OVER" during play for no apparent reason.
Answer: Check the two normally closed SLAM switches for adequate pressure. One of the slam switches is mounted inside the coin door, the other is at the ball roll assembly inside the cabinet. Improperly adjusted switches will respond to game vibration levels and show this problem. Also check the suppression diodes across the pop bumpers, flippers and slingshot kicker c

ok i just read something about the U2 GAL chip on the board you have installed. Now that’s a custom chip, made special for the Ni-Wumpf CPU board. This isn’t something you can buy, unless it’s directly from Ni-Wumpf.
somehow the new Ni-Wumpf CPU board could have a bad chip or that short could have affected that chip

I really dont think so unless the wires were soldered in the wrong order on the coil tabs

Tell you what try unsoldering the coin door tilt switch lets see what happens,you stated you soldered it shut.give a shot

Great info in the vid..It's about system 1 drop target coils,slam tilts,ect.

Step One: Power off, Check the Lower Board Fuses & Bridges.
With the game off remove each of the fuses one at a time and test with a Multimeter (DMM) set to continuity. If a fuse is blown, just don't replace it (just yet). Fuses often blow for a reason. Note what the fuse does (there should be labels for each of the fuses).
If for example the fuse for the CPU driven 6 volt lamp power is blown, test its accompanying bridge rectifier (because if the bridge is shorted, its accompanying fuse will blow). There's only two bridge rectifiers in a system1 game (25 volts coil power, 6 volts cpu driven lamp power.)
If the 69 volt fuse for the score displays is blown, this often means one of the power supply's four 1N4004 diodes used for rectifying this voltage is shorted. If a 6.3 volt general illumination lighting fuse is blown, that can often mean a shorted light socket on the playfield.
Now that the lower fuse panel is all checked out, REMOVE the 25 volt solenoid fuse before proceeding! Set it aside for later.

Step Two: Power off, Check Playfield Coil Resistance.
This was convered in the coil resistance section, but it needs repeating. If a driver board transistor shorted or there is a ground issue, a coil can lock-on and burn. If this is the case, either cut the non-banded diode lead going to the coil, or replace the coil. I do this before initial power-up. Because a burned (shorted) low-resistance coil can damage the driver board.

Step Three: Isolate the Power Supply.
This simply involves removing the top J2 and right J3 power supply connectors. (The top connector supplies 5/-12 volts to the CPU and driver board, the right side connector supplies display voltages to the score displays.) Only the bottom J1 power supply connector is attached (makes sure it's attached properely too, because this connector can be reversed!) Now turn the game on. The power supply's top connector J2 can be checked for +5 and -12 volts DC. The right side connector J3 can be checked for 60, 42, 8 and 4 volts DC. (The power supply board is screened with the voltage outputs for these connectors.) If any voltages are missing, you will need to repair the power supply before continuing. (More information on that can be found in the Power Supply section.)

Step Four: Power Up with the CPU board Only.
Now that the power supply checks out, the CPU board can be added to the mix. All CPU connectors can be removed except for the left most J1 (power) connector. Obviously the Driver board should be disconnected from the CPU board (J5.) Also remove the two right side CPU connectors J2 and J3 (which go to the score displays.) Disconnect J6 and J7 (switch matrix) connectors too.

Your very welcome and im glad progress is being made Ok,The driver board in your game is it original board? I reread your post above and i see you stated its a rottendog driver board,very good board

Next thing we will try is to test diodes,transistors and coil resistance

I would have never thought it would be on CPU..Wow

Yes that's correct,Only the Pop bumpers, slingshots, coin door lockout and flipper coils are NOT CPU controlled. All other coils are controlled by the CPU.Next thing is to test those 2 coils for the drop targets,the diode on those coils and the coil resistance we will test.Here's what i'll do in the next few posts is explain how to test coli resistance in one post and how to test diodes on coil in other post and how to test transistors in another post...Sorry if i'm confusing you but this way each post will be for 3 different things to test.

To test diode on a coil-power off game

1.set meter to diode setting
2.remove one leg of the diode on the coil
3.place black probe on banded side of diode
4.place red probe on non-banded side of diode
5.meter should read .4 through .6 anything lower or higher is bad/shorted diode.
next step on the same diode

1.place black probe on non-banded side of diode
2.place red probe on banded side of diode
3.meter should read ZERO...Any readings come up means bad/shorted diode.

To test coil resistance-Power off game

Set meter to ohms/lowest resistance setting.Then put the meters red and black probes on each coil's lugs, A resistance of 2 ohms or greater should be seen if not then there's something wrong....Let me know what readings you get on this ok,That way if it's not 2 ohms or higher we will do more testing.

To test transistor quick test 95% accurate-power off game

1.set meter on continuity setting
2.place black probe to ground(Gray strap in backbox)
3.touch the transistor tab with red probe
4.if the meter beeps when touching red probe to the tab of transistor it means that transistor has shorted/bad/faulty

Pinmike - you are rocking this. High praise sir!

Good morning guys Thank you I appreciate it!!

yes that is very low and yes i do see that to cut off that diode is a bit tight.That diode looks a bit rough and looks old,Did you measure the other coil?

Yes i would suspect the driver board is the problem because the coils to drop targets are CPU controlled.I would also get 2 new coils for the drop targets,Give me a few minutes to take a look into the rottendog driver board and see which component that controls the tilt and see if something we can do to get it fixed

Here's a schematic for genie i just put this up for later on to look at
genie2 (resized).png

The game over relay coil and the tilt relay coil are main suspects also and they both have 1n4004 diodes these diodes are suspect also because its letting you play a game but then it tilts or game over pops up,I have an idea if you would like to try.
disconnect both of those coils the game over relay coil and the tilt relay coil,This way the tilt coils and the drop target coils will be diconnected.Then power up game and see if the game plays without tilting or end the game during a play.If you plan on doing this make sure you take pics of those coils before taking them out so this way there's no confusion to where the wires go back on those coils.What do you think?It shouldnt hurt anything just a bit of a little more work.

I'm still looking into that driver board

Ok here's more info about the rottendog driver board,This board is very reliable and the transistors on that board can easily be tested without taking the board out of the backbox.

The Rottendog replacement Gottlieb System 1 driver board. The cool thing
about this board is the updated design. The Dawg people updated the
driver board so it uses one common MOSfet driver for all the coils and
lamps. The MOSfets are rated to handle way more current than the original
Gottlieb components, so it is unlikely you'll ever have to repair this board.
Price is very reasonable too.

s1drv1r (resized).jpg

Let's test the transistors on the rottendog driver board and see if any of those transistors have shorted..It only takes a few minutes to do

I do believe the drop target coils sent a spike and fried the chip on the CPU,Those drop target coils and the diodes on those coils are mostly fried/bad/faulty.
Then when you lifted up the playfield with power on caused a short to the rottendog driver board transistor or transistors.It very easy to cause a short on any pinball machine,just a slight metal touch to powered on coils can cause a short.

Yes you can test the transistors while the board is attached.

To test transistor quick test 95% accurate-power off game
1.set meter on continuity setting
2.place black probe to ground(Gray strap in backbox)
3.touch the transistor tab with red probe
4.if the meter beeps when touching red probe to the tab of transistor it means that transistor has shorted/bad/faulty

Test all the transistors on that board,Remember you dont have to remove the board or the transistors off the board to test them

The rottendog board is a good board and very reliable but the new Gottlieb system 1 driver board it is way more upgraded.

They may have been removed during ground modifications...Didnt you solder the tilt switch together?