(Topic ID: 198371)

Generators - It's time to upgrade

By mcluvin

6 years ago


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  • 61 posts
  • 17 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by mcluvin
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    #1 6 years ago

    So just went 8 days without power and realize it's time to upgrade my generator situation. I currently have a 5500 Watt Troybilt generator, a window AC ,and lots of extension cords. It actually runs a lot of my stuff, but I'd like to be able to run my 4 ton heat pump along with everything else (selectively). A neighbor has a 22K Watt Generac system and it eats propane like candy. I don't want that. I am strongly considering a Duromax 10/12K watt dual fuel generator. They are relatively cheap and can run on propane or gas. It should be able to run my heat pump. For those of you with generators, what is your setup?

    #3 6 years ago
    Quoted from mbaumle:

    Do you have natural gas lines in your part of the neighborhood? You can always make a fitting to run the generator on the natural gas that runs from your house's line instead of propane. Infinite power, just as long as you have gas coming from the house.

    We don't. I really don't want to rely on fuel delivery trucks either, so figuring on a setup where I can swap out propane tanks ideally, and gas if I must. Propane was never too hard to find this go around, but gas was dicey for a few days.

    #5 6 years ago
    Quoted from mbaumle:

    I should've guessed when you mentioned you have a heat pump. You could always get a large 420 lb (holds 100 lbs of liquid propane) propane tank installed inline to the generator. Might be overkill, but we had that setup as a backup when I lived on the outskirts of York, Montana for a time. The tanks aren't terribly big. Maybe 4 feet tall and 3 or 4 feet in diameter? They hold enough where you can keep it filled for emergencies, and you won't have to worry about shipments or small tanks running out fast.

    Fuel delivery gets expensive, at least around here. In the last ~13 years, I've had numerous multi-day outages in 2004, 1 in 2005, then this last one with Irma lasting ~8 days. I can go years without a power issue so don't want to invest a bunch in this, but this last outage highlights a need to try to improve the comfort level . At a minimum I'm going to add a power inlet box and interlock. I'll at least be able to run my hot water heater and dryer, and possibly my stove with my current generator. I know I'll need a generator upgrade to run the heat pump. It looks like if I add a soft start kit to my heat pump, I can definitely start and run it with a ~10K watt generator.

    5 months later
    #6 6 years ago

    Picked up an XP12000E as they just recently were very cheap on Ebay. It survived shipping undamaged. Thank you Fedex! Gonna crank it up tomorrow. Crossing my fingers for no issues. Still waiting on my interlock kit, power cable, and power inlet. This should be fun!

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    #10 6 years ago
    Quoted from camcamaro1991:

    I picked up my dual fuel Champion at Costco,

    That's a great price, especially considering the lifetime Costco warranty. Mine isn't dual fuel, but I'm probably gonna add an aftermarket kit. Honestly it looks like if you can rig a propane feed into the air intake, all you really need is an on demand regulator to safely convert to propane.

    Anybody using a soft start on their heat pump?

    http://hypereng.com/

    #18 6 years ago

    I've read reviews where owners say they have been able to run a 4 ton heat pump with the XP12000. Maybe they are using a soft start kit and simply didn't clarify? Using the LRA x volts calculation, there should be no way it would work without one. I'd certainly prefer going with a 10 kw generator and a $250 soft start kit vs a costly 20 kw generator. Check the graph.

    surestart (resized).PNGsurestart (resized).PNG

    1 week later
    #19 6 years ago

    Researching soft start devices, I found an HVAC thread where somebody actually popped one open to see what was inside. There was a nominal amount of electronics and a start capacitor. Between that and a couple videos showing most of the efficiencies gained were realized immediately, I suspect a $30 to $50 start capacitor kit would do nearly as well. I've got a USA made Amrad start capacitor on the way. I at least know Amrad makes solid products and it sure as hell didn't cost $250.

    #21 6 years ago

    I got this from a semi-local place for $29. I've had good luck with Amrad capacitors in the past. We'll see. The heat pump is more a want than a need. I've still got a couple portable ACs for emergency use if necessary. After all said and done, I'll at least have double my current generator capacity and a 50 amp generator inlet. My wife will have hot water and I won't be running extension cords all over the place.

    https://www.amazon.com/Amrad-Universal-Replacement-Start-Conditioning/dp/B0170BOW6Y/ref=sr_1_1

    1 week later
    #25 6 years ago
    Quoted from mbwalker:

    I'm not sure why an A/C manufacturer wouldn't incorporate the appropriate sized capacitor for a softer start, except for the minimal increase in cost (a few dollars, likely)...but I've have seen the mods advertised.

    Got the TES-4 installed and of course, it was defective. Ha! It would start the compressor, but apparently, the potential relay was stuck, and wouldn't remove the start capacitor from the circuit. This is not good. The compressor starts, runs for a bit, then stops (probably overheating).

    Anyway, quickly removed it from the circuit and e-mailed Amrad. They were very cool and offered a replacement with the newest model (TES-5). Their HQ is just up the road from me, so I drove up and they gave me a tour of the place. It was neat to see how the capacitors are made. I had no idea.

    So got the new part installed. You can definitely hear the relay click now and the compressor startup sounds so much better. I will probably leave the start capacitor out of circuit unless using the generator though. I imagine a start capacitor stuck on for any extended length of time would probably smoke that compressor. Why take the chance?

    #27 6 years ago
    Quoted from smokey_789:

    Sorry to rain on everyone's parade but I am in the gas station/fuel delivery business. Gas stations and refineries do not have backup generators so when you run out of your initial supply, after that you are screwed. Better build a cabin in the woods with a pot-belly stove and shotgun. Just saying.....

    Not preparing for the end of the world, just my 8-10 day hurricane outage. This last time was a bit sketchy getting the gas for a few days, but I had stocked up in anticipation. Having the option to run propane or gas, I should be OK. Many of our gas stations in Florida do have backup generators for that matter. Propane refill stations don't require it.

    #30 6 years ago
    Quoted from mbwalker:

    I actually have a z-wave current monitor installed in my breaker box to monitor current when the sump pumps runs in the finished basement (yeah, I'm a geek, lol). And a couple for the whole house and one on the pins. Would be interesting to do the same on the heatpump and see if the inrush current actually is less with a different cap. Let me know if you want more details and I will post!

    Yeah sure. That would be cool. I thought about adding a meter box for the generator, but I've read they are next to useless. Some sort of z wave monitoring would be better, but this project is nickel and diming me to death. I do use a Smart Things controller, so the potential is there.

    Just to be clear, I'm using the same run cap. I just added an optional start cap. Just a night and day difference in startup sound from that compressor now though.

    #34 6 years ago
    Quoted from mbwalker:

    Hi MC,
    I tried to paste a SnipIt of one of the current probes just so you can see what it captures. More of a fyi than anything... I can see when the hot tub runs, when the heat pump runs, electric stove, fridge, etc. I too run Samsung SmartThings.

    When I had Progress Energy at my old house, they upgraded the meters and gave us this sort of monitoring for free. It was pretty cool.

    #36 6 years ago
    Quoted from hoby1:

    Trying to find out what the THD is on the unit but they don’t say. I’m wondering if it’s safe to run electronics with it Also would the surge protector make it ok if the THD is greater than 5%.

    The only electronics I've ever killed with a generator were a couple battery backups. I've had a large LCD TV not run well on a generator, so I just disconnected it. A smaller TV ran fine. I've used some pretty crappy generators over the years.

    Given everything else I'm upgrading, I am also installing a HEPD80 whole home surge protector in my main panel.

    #38 6 years ago
    Quoted from mbwalker:

    Square D makes some that simply snaps into an empty slot in a beaker box. You just need to connect the ground wire (keeping it short). Might save you some time installing.
    Here's mine:

    I just finished installation believe it or not. The hardest part was knocking out the hole in the box. One wire to ground, one to neutral, 2 to a dedicated double pole 20 or 30 amp breaker. Easy peasy with a healthy dose of respect for that which can kill ya I looked at those like the one you have, but the HEPD80 seemed to be the most bang for the buck. It really wasn't difficult.

    Here's my crummy pic.

    hepd80 (resized).PNGhepd80 (resized).PNG

    #42 6 years ago
    Quoted from mbwalker:

    Good deal MC. I didn't have access to the sides since my garage has peg board installed. So going internally was my best bet. Try to keep the wires as short as possible since those will look inductive (meaning it will make the surge spike less prone to actually being clamped by the transient protector).
    I still use surge suppressors throughout the house as a second line of defense since you can never be sure where the spike sneaks in at. That could happen with a nearby lightning strike - could get picked up by the wires in the house, and not come in thru the mains at the fuse box.
    Playing around inside a live breaker box - fun, eh? LOL

    I'd have preferred mounting it on the side to keep the wires short as possible, but there were no knockouts. I'm not sure it would be kosher to make my own and suspect probably not. Plus I'm in Florida, so water intrusion is a concern. You've got me wondering if I should install another in my garage panel?

    I kill the breakers when I'm working on it, but I know the main feeds on the main panel are still hot. I give them plenty of space

    #44 6 years ago
    Quoted from mbwalker:

    Mains always hot - LOL. Same on my end. I took a piece of cardboard and covered the feed lines into the house for when I accidentally do something stupid.

    Fortunately, I rarely need to go into it. It only contains my main breaker and a couple irrigation breakers. Your lucky you have space to add more circuits in your basement panel. My garage panel was full.

    #46 6 years ago
    Quoted from Electrocute:

    If your panel is full then look into quad breakers.

    Thanks. I didn't even know they made quads. Not sure those would have worked for me though as the panel didn't have the notch to take tandems. Though, I could have popped a couple of the older style (pricey) in to make it work. I needed another main breaker anyway, so I found a value pack load center that would take tandems and also used the same box. It fit perfectly and for just a little more money. Plus now I've got even more room to expand if I need it.

    #47 6 years ago
    Quoted from mbwalker:

    Hi MC,

    I tried to paste a SnipIt of one of the current probes just so you can see what it captures. More of a fyi than anything... I can see when the hot tub runs, when the heat pump runs, electric stove, fridge, etc. I too run Samsung SmartThings.

    Will this also measure amps?

    #48 6 years ago

    Interlock is installed and just gotta wire up the generator inlet. We are almost cooking with Crisco!

    interlock (resized).PNGinterlock (resized).PNG

    #51 6 years ago
    Quoted from mbwalker:

    I bought the discontinued Aeon current probe (maybe $20-$30). It ONLY measures current in amps. You can set the voltage for a default value (i.e. 120V) to estimate power (Power = voltage x current). The newer clamp also measures the voltage, which I believe allows you to directly measure watts and apparent power (without being too geeky, this is what happens when current and voltage is out of phase). I wasn't worried about that, so the cheapie version was fine by me.
    Hope that answers your question, I can go into more detail if needed. Just holler if needed.

    Thanks! I looked into those a long time ago. I see they are now up to Gen 5. I may go ahead and pick one up.

    #52 6 years ago

    50 amp power inlet is installed. Ended up putting it in the garage as I was going to have to drill the studs above the breaker box otherwise. You really have to measure 6 gauge wire just right to get it to all fit in the box. Gonna do a test run tomorrow as it is about to storm here.

    Anybody running a Sense Home Energy Monitor? Kinda pricey, but I like the concept.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075K6PHJ9/ref=asc_df_B075K6PHJ95421953/

    #53 6 years ago

    And we have success! My heat pump started right up. You could tell the load increased very briefly on the gen, but it didn't sound like it was straining. Ran a few lights, a freezer, and a mini-fridge at the same time. No problems.

    The breakdown...

    9.5/12.5K Generator - $660

    50 FT. 50 Amp Power Cord - $200

    Interlock Kit - $50

    50 Amp Power Inlet - $85

    Easy Start Capacitor for Heat Pump - $30

    6 FT. of 6/3 Romex - $20

    So for ~$1K, I can run everything in the house and I'm not screwing around with extension cords all over the place. I can't run all the high load things at the same time, but I don't need to. This worked out very well. I still need to convert to propane and I know that will reduce the power a bit, but I don't think it's going to be a problem.

    1 month later
    #56 5 years ago
    Quoted from TheMickster:

    If you have a smart meter this is the cheaper way to go. I have had the Rain Forest Energy monitor for almost two years works great on letting you know energy consumption...real-time and accurate...Cheap too...*$69.00

    That's a reasonable price, but I'd like to also be able to measure load when the generator is the power source.

    1 month later
    #59 5 years ago
    Quoted from Electrocute:

    Too good of a deal to pass on. eBay.

    Believe it or not, it was $240 last week with the Father's day 20% off.

    #61 5 years ago
    Quoted from Electrocute:

    Missed that one. Did get the xp10000eh for $539 about 2 months ago.

    Ebay must really be hurting for sales. Today they've got 15% off and 8% ebay bucks.

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