Coronation
Gottlieb, 1952
Double-Shuffle
Gottlieb, 1949Moving on to hold relays - a troublesome component as they can make such a racket.
This one on same game is really really loud and gets hot and smells like it is burning!
Just wondering - there is a silver bar going across from one relay to the next.
Do I unsolder this and coil lug and take the hold relay out?
New coil? New armature? Want it to be quiet......
So, continuing along as there may be others who decide to get into the wonderful world of woodrails!
Anyway, working on 1954 Diamond Lill.
When I got it I noticed credit meter would not step down below 2 and go above 13. First thought is 'must be a switch'. Very wrong.
This era credit meter should step to 26 so I wanted mine to.
All that follows, is trial and error and illustrates how working on these games is a black hole in terms of time.
And big thanks to Dirtflipper as I would have given up long ago I think 
First problem was noticing cam was broken. Great, had to buy a 1959 credit unit that had the right cam. Then I had to learn how to take these things apart.
Will document as I can't be the only one who didn't know how to.
First step is to unscrew the set screw as in picture. If lucky the reel will pull off. If unlucky like my 1 point stepper it just won't budge!
Whilst off I clean with Novus 2 and cotton buds - seems to get all dirt off without damaging black ink.
So, put in the new cam and all would be well!
I got it all back together but it still wouldn't step below 2. Boy, why not?
With help I saw that the switch stack had been put on the wrong way round.
Reverse it and all would be well.
No, still didn't work.
The switches were also in wrong order!
So, take it off, move everything round and hope.
This time, success, credit unit to zero and up to 26.
Couldn't quite line up the zero center of the credit window and it always seems to slip down a tad. Given up on that for now.
So, if like me this is all new, it is amazing what has to be done to get something back to factory.
Phew!!
Quoted from PinballFever:Never heard of a cotton bud? (cotton balls?)
Bruce
Swabs maybe?
Use them all the time on reels and other stuff.
Quoted from Shapeshifter:Swabs maybe?
Use them all the time on reels and other stuff.
Got it! I'll have to get some for doing mine too.
Thanks,
Bruce
Also noticed the backbox lighting was fairly poor and just thought it was the age of the game.
Took out light board and virtually every light was black - but they all work. No wonder lighting looked poor!
Wonder why they go black/silver at the ends and yet still work?
Anyway replaced all with 47's and wow, what a difference to the backglass lighting.
And there is the credit meter that I just can't center.....but at least it now works.
An easy job for once 
I just purchased a Coronation pinball machine and need some help. When we got it, it lit up and flippers and all seem to work fine. Launched a ball and it got stuck against one of the round bumpers (rubber was bad) I shook it to get the ball to come loose and it tilted. Well now the tilt light stays on the whole time and won't reset when you push the button?? I have an electric meter and am a mechanical person, just need to know where to look.
Thanks
Here is something that I learnt this week.
I had a bent, tatty Heath mech in my game which luckily works.
So, as it was really dirty thought I would lightly clean it.
I used a product someone here recommended, can't remember who. A zep rust, calcium remover.
Wow, the stuff is good!
Can now read the writing on the mech.
I quite like the old look with the 'patina' but equally nice to see it as it should be.
Here are some NOS woodie goodies!
Flipper links - these fit my 1952 Coronation but at some point by 1954 the links had changed and not been able to find any of that sort.
Cigarette holders - still got the protective tape on. Almost don't want to use them!
And flipper guards.
Ok, here is going to be a rambling post that might be of use to anyone who works on a 100k stepper and like me, doesn't really know what they are doing! Also a celebration of the Gottlieb slogan, 'There is no substitute for quality'.
So, my 1952 Coronation. Small issue ( in theory.... ) . The lights flicker or go off on the 100000's and the millions' lights on the backglass. When this happened I had no idea why. The usual thank you to DF as I was lost in space
So, it looked like the problem would be the 100k stepper and it was but little did I know how long it would take me to sort out!
For some reason the shoes weren't getting good contact on the rivets beneath. The arm was looser than on my other games.
I ended up taking it all apart and re-assembling again and again and again - good way to learn
The rod inside the cam wheel comes out and so cleaned it all.
Now this is a 1952 game that has had this stepper going perhaps over a million times and just look how these parts look after 60 years. Amazing really.
So, to take apart. Used a socket wrench to take off screw and 2 washers. Then wiper comes off. Go to other side and move contacts ( 2 screws remove ). Then cam wheel comes out. Loosen set screws. Clean everything.
The fun for me begins re-assembling. I didn't know the arm has to be set at -1 position as the 10k stepper moves it to zero on re-set.
Spring had 6 turns on it from memory. Once I had re-assembled I had adjusted too much so it would not re-set and the cam would not spin to zero.
Had to loosen off and got it to re-set. So, after 5 days I was pretty much back where I started!
Time to re-examine the shoes. I didn't know that apart from being clean they must really glide up and down, like a knife through butter. I de-soldered 2 of the shoes and polished them so they did indeed glide.
Day 8. Re-assembly time again. It worked with the exception of lights going off a 3 million. Cleaned, polished the rivets and it all now seems to be working.
I have never been mechanical at all so this is all new to me. The purity of the Gottlieb parts is such that it seems possible for a non mechanical person like myself to get these working almost like they did back in the 50's which is testament to the amazing quality of these magnificent woodrails.
And then finally with the unit working the numbers on the backglass are bright and no flicker.
That was 8 days of anguish!
And I haven't even cleaned the coil sleeves or other parts of the stepper.
I appreciate these woodrails even more when they work 
but also appreciate that there was no built in obsolescence - looked after these games could and should last another 100 years!!!
Quoted from Shapeshifter:Took out light board and virtually every light was black - but they all work. No wonder lighting looked poor!
Wonder why they go black/silver at the ends and yet still work?
Anyway replaced all with 47's and wow, what a difference to the backglass lighting.
I did this this past weekend with a game (mass replacement on 90% of the bulbs, since they didn't match the brightness of the brand new ones (too dark; AND it was new 47's vs. old 44's, which 44's should be brighter by a hair) I'm taking to Pinfest with similar results on most bulbs, or they were just going dim from age.
The reason for the "burn" in my opinion is that they get too hot and over time the pieces inside the glass move closer to the glass (or some are just built that way, I've noticed, even on brand new bulbs) and leave a toasty burn mark on the glass as they light up since they're too close to the inside of the glass. Not a problem besides leaving that mark there, and also being a bit more of a literal pain to pull out if you've had the game on recently. Ouch!
Quoted from wayner:Great job Simon-the stepper is gleaming!!
Thanks Wayne - just nice to have it working
Quoted from Otaku:I did this this past weekend with a game (mass replacement on 90% of the bulbs, since they didn't match the brightness of the brand new ones (too dark; AND it was new 47's vs. old 44's, which 44's should be brighter by a hair) I'm taking to Pinfest with similar results on most bulbs, or they were just going dim from age.
The reason for the "burn" in my opinion is that they get too hot and over time the pieces inside the glass move closer to the glass (or some are just built that way, I've noticed, even on brand new bulbs) and leave a toasty burn mark on the glass as they light up since they're too close to the inside of the glass. Not a problem besides leaving that mark there, and also being a bit more of a literal pain to pull out if you've had the game on recently. Ouch!
I now keep all my old GE 44 bulbs as they seem way better quality than new bulbs. I put 47's in the backbox but prefer 44's under the p/f. Yes they are hotter but for home use, but don't think it really matters.
I will be getting my first woodrail next week. The owner says I have to "break down the entire machine to get the legs off".....are they really that difficult or he just doesn't know what he is doing? It is an Exhibit Supply Company machine....they look like acorn nuts to me on the legs. I plan to bring a bunch of wrenches and a dolly and hydraulic lift table in the back of the truck, so it shouldn't really matter if I can't get them off, but it seems odd to disassemble the whole machine to take the legs off.
dont have that game, but would assume the legs come off, and the head comes off about the same aas any other pin...for the most part.
Quoted from Shapeshifter:Thanks Wayne - just nice to have it working
I now keep all my old GE 44 bulbs as they seem way better quality than new bulbs. I put 47's in the backbox but prefer 44's under the p/f. Yes they are hotter but for home use, but don't think it really matters.
i agree 100%
Quoted from Shapeshifter:I had a bent, tatty Heath mech in my game which luckily works.
So, as it was really dirty thought I would lightly clean it.
I used a product someone here recommended, can't remember who. A zep rust, calcium remover.
Wow, the stuff is good!
Can now read the writing on the mech.
I quite like the old look with the 'patina' but equally nice to see it as it should be.
Reviving this thread which I think is worth keeping going for us woodrail lovers.
What was the process you used to clean your heath mech?
Very timely, as I'm working on a World Beauties right now.
Doing a 2 into one thing. Basically, I have 2 of everything except the PF and backglass. The PF on one literally was eaten by a rodent. The other one is by far the best intact PF I have ever seen for a woodie.
I'm probably going to be putting a lot of woodie parts on Flea Bay in a month or so. I need two swap some head parts too.
IMG_2769 (resized).JPGIMG_2836 (resized).JPG
Spent yesterday leveling inserts.
IMG_2819 (resized).JPGQuoted from PinballFever:More
Reviving this thread which I think is worth keeping going for us woodrail lovers.
What was the process you used to clean your heath mech?
The Zep stuff is great. With 000 Steel Wool.
https://www.amazon.com/Enforcer-ZUCAL32-32-Ounce-Zep-Calcium/dp/B001B16R4A/ref=sr_1_4
Quoted from PinballFever:Do you soak it in a diluted solution (30% clr and 70% water) or rub it with a cloth?
Steel wool 000.
I didn't dilute - wore gloves as it is super strong stuff!
Ok, I'll give it a try. I have steel wool 0000 and 00.
I'm restoring two woodrails at the same time. Will post before/after results with these Heath coin plates.
Quoted from dgpinball:Does anyone know what exact size and thread the head bolts are on Gottlieb woodrails, I'm missing a few and nothing I've been able to find in my hardware bins work?
The ones that attach the backbox to cabinet...? If so, I picked some up recently at a local hardware store. According to my notes and measurements of the one I had, they are 5/16" - 18 (thread) and 1 3/4" long. Good luck!
Quoted from dgpinball:Does anyone know what exact size and thread the head bolts are on Gottlieb woodrails, I'm missing a few and nothing I've been able to find in my hardware bins work?
And if I remember correctly, the store only had these in stainless.
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