Duisburg
Hi,
Was playing the other day. Everything worked fine. Turned game on today and GI is out on playfield, but not on backbox.
What is the logical way to approach this issue?
Grateful for any hints.
Stefan
(Topic ID: 241127)
Check the 1 amp slow blow fuse under the Playfield.
And then check all the fuses on the rectifier board
Check fuse on the rectifier board in backbox. I think it is the 20 amp off hand.
Also the connector on the rectifier board. They burn up .
Quoted from chad:Check fuse on the rectifier board in backbox. I think it is the 20 amp off hand.
Also the connector on the rectifier board. They burn up .
Yes, F5 is for GI, and is a 20A fuse
Thanks, guys.
Took a look at the rectifier board today. All fuses including the one under the PF are good. GI works in Blackbox and coin door. Voltage at test point 4 is 6.6. All other voltages at test points 1-5 within spec.
J1 was replaced by the previous owner. The corresponding header pins, too. Everyone is nice and shiny and the connector sits snugly on the pins.
The other 2 connectors look ok and are not toasted.
Not sure where to look next. Any ideas?
Check connections at the light driver board. I would just try turning the game and wiggly the connectors and see if it lights up. If it does connector need work.
Quoted from timab2000:Check connections at the light driver board. I would just try turning the game and wiggly the connectors and see if it lights up. If it does connector need work.
The gi lamps are not controlled by the lamp driver board. Rectifier board
Quoted from chad:The gi lamps are not controlled by the lamp driver board. Rectifier board
Well he's gotta start looking somewhere if it not the rectifier board. Cant hurt.
Don't all the wires from the rectifer board go into the other boards at some point. I'd be checking all the connections.
On the Rectifier board, Take a close look at J 2 pins 1, 5. J3 pins 1, 2, 10, 11 These may need to be resoldered on the rectifier board and the molex .156 pins inside the housing replaced.
So, just replaced the above-mentioned molex connectors on J2 and J3, but with no effect. Then I investigated the back side of the rectifier board: boy it was not a pretty site. I didn‘t change anything, but reassembled everything and turned it on to check I hadn’t made it worse. For a couple of seconds the PF GI worked, so it must be a bad solder joint. It is so badly soldered I’m fearful of reseating pins in case I create a short circuit
Medford, NJ
Quoted from Pinslot:So, just replaced the above-mentioned molecules connectors on J2 and J3, but with no effect. Then I investigated the back side of the rectifier board: boy it was not a pretty site. I didn‘t change anything, but reassembled everything and turned it on to check I hadn’t made it worse. For a couple of seconds the PF GI worked, so it must be a bad solder joint. It is so badly soldered I’m fearful of reseating pins in case I create a short circuit
I have had to remove old solder and clean it up good, then apply fresh solder using some flux.
Argh... zero Volts at Test Point 1
The saga continues. I connected the repro board and took great care to hook all wires up correctly. I'm getting 177 volts at Test Point 2, 12,6 v at TP3, 7,4 AC at TP4 and 43V at TP 5, but ZERO V at TP 1. The fuses are good.
I took a good hard look at the solder connections using a bright lamp and a magnifying glass and they seem okay. Nevertheless, I guess bad connectivity at one of the solder points is the issue.
Does anyone know which wire (E Number) I should resolder?
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