Hey folks,

Working on a very nice Genco Argentine (1941) and was curious what a proper wiring circuit should look like for sending 110 VAC to the coin door. I have rewired the primary side of the transformer from the line cord to the transformer in the following manner:

-Hot from line cord > Distribution block > SPST switch > Fuse > 115 of transformer primary
-Neutral from line cord > Distribution block > Common side of transformer primary
-Ground from line cord > Distribution block > Transformer base > Relay bank base > Rest of metal parts that may get touched with power on

All wiring is now completely isolated from 110 VAC (other then the incoming power cord) when the new switch is powered off. I would like to keep it this way. I would also like to maintain the originality of the game and not bypass the tilt mech or lock/hold relay. This game was also originally manufactured with a timer that would cut power to the primary after a mechanical clock ran out and closed a switch. I plan on reinstalling this timer into the circuit in series on the hot side below the fuse. Does this sound like the proper placement in the circuit?

I realize there are many ways in which these circuits can and were wired based on manufacturer and year. I am interested in knowing proper ways that are both safe and efficiant. Diagrams, descriptions and or pictures are welcomed.

--- Last night I wired it up in the following manner:

-After the switch and fuse on the primary : hot to one side of the coin door jones plug.

-other side of Coin door jones plug comes out of terminal block into timer which is activated when the coin mech is pushed in.

- other side of timer is connected back into hot return leading to input of transformer (115)

Good news is I got it to work. Bad news is I had to manually close switches on both the coin door coil and the lock/hold coil on the playfield.

After doing that the game cycles properly, awards replays properly, scores, tilts, and still will end if timer ends or I power down with switch. And nothing is getting hot.

I really don’t like leaving it like this though as I know I am missing something. And if I do end up leaving those switches closed then I will probably end up disconnecting power to the lock/hold relay on the playfield. I can’t do the same for the coin door coil as it allows replays in the coin mech.

Any ideas? I’ve done a bunch of wiring tracing but maybe it’s time for some more.

Thanks
Blake
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Yes it was Dave's. I agree, he did a great job bringing it back to life. Amazed at how well a nearly 80 year old playfield has held up. Dave did a nice job fixing/replacing the pop bumper caps and skirts to keep it looking original.

Thanks
Blake

So I would like to get it back to factory as I really love having folks realize they are putting a nickle in instead of a quarter. It just brings to reality the age of the machine all the more.

Having to work hard for a replay also adds to the experience which I think setting it on freeplay would take away from. Because the game is very simple and basic I feel these elements are essential to the experience. Other games from newer eras not so much.

But fact is that at some point in time this will be on location in a free play arcade so I may have to scrap the 110v at the coin door anyway just for piece of mind. Although I will be running ground to the mech. But until then if I could get it working that would make me feel better about the circuit I installed.

Thanks
Blake

Going to try putting the coin door power and the timer in parallel rather then series, as is depicted in this 1951 Genco Tri-Score schematic. Looks like it might hold some clues as to where to look for my hold relay as well. I see it does tie back into the tilt circuit at....you guessed it, the coin door.

Thanks
Blake

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what do you mean by gold relay? Do you mean hold relay? If so I know Which one that is. Here is a pick of the relay and of the reset bar and associated switches effected by it.

Thanks
Blake

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There is a total of 8 switches, the timer clock, and the relay bank are all engaged when the reset bar is pushed in.

I’ve wired the coin door in several different manners. All send 110 to the Jones plug at the door but nothing I do pulls in the coil. Both switches are live as well.

Thanks
Blake

Okay correction. Lock coil on coin door is working correctly. I keep forgetting that it only pulls in when a replay has been registered.

So basically all the primary wiring is 100% correct and working as it should.

Just need to identify why the lock/hold relay is not engaging. I’ll have to back track. I have most all the wires labeled now.

Thanks
Blake

Cleaned up the Argentine and took some pics. Game is working 100%, although I did manually close the hold relay. I will look further into that as we believe it is a timing issue with the switches associated with the reset bar. I still have to restore the front cabinet panel and coin door (someone pryed it open). And have to fill and touchup the nail holes from the previous owners botched attempt at fixing the cracked back panel. Also need to install new leg levelers which will take some extra effort as the new style is not a perfect fit.

I will be making a thread about the restoration efforts made toward this game as the cabinet repair was quite extensive, but thought it would be nice to add some pics here first.

Such a cool piece of history, I'm glad to be able to spend the time bringing it back to life. I was amazed at how vibrant the colors were under all the crud. I was able to remove most of the odd ball markings using Simple Green, Novus 3 and a coat of wax to protect.

Its starting to look pretty nice.

Thanks
Blake

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Your saying the timing issue as far as holding the relay upon entering a coin and pushing in the mech is with the switches on the hold relay? I know its the hold relay is the red coil. I have traced back and identified every wire that goes to the hold relay (some go to the bank relay/some go to the jones plug in the back box/some are to the return/some are power). I also traced back all the switches associated with the reset bar. I can't recall where they all go know but I do have them marked and taped off.

Can you be more specific with what you believe is happening or not happening that is preventing the hold relay from locking after the reset bar transitions back to its rest position?

I have identified two switches that need to be in the closed position in order for the Hold Relay to lock otherwise it just pulls in momentarily. One switch is on the relay bank which is closed by the relay bank bar being reset by the reset bar of the coin mech. The other is one of the many switches on the reset bar.

I then found another switch on the reset bar path that powers the Hold Relay is closed. The trouble is one of the switches that needs to be closed when the power switch is activated doesn't close until after the reset bar is back in its resting or home position.

My assumption is there is another switch in the loop I haven't identified, a bad connection somewhere, a delay thats not happening, or some other timing issue.

The game is fully working however is you manually close the Hold Relay like I have done. And its not the coil because it you close the switch that controls power to the Hold Relay it pulls and locks in place.

This is probably impossible to follow without video or illustrations to help.

Thanks
Blake

I will take a closer look. I have spent considerable time on both sets of switches in question and know that they are adjusted to register when the actuator is engaged, but your saying that maybe the make or break is disengaging to soon or late?

Thanks
Blake

My uncle arcyallen noticed that too. I only took the photo because I love how the balls sit on top of the PF after a game has been played. Counterintuitive to SS pinheads and alike.

Thanks
Blake

Awesome. Thank you very much for the suggestion and I will let you know what I uncover.

How is your woodrail collection looking these days?

Thanks
Blake

No idea but it looks like a really cool machine!
Condition and completeness will affect the price I'm sure.

Thanks
Blake

Solved the issue with the hold relay. It was indeed a timing issue. Although it wasn’t with the hold relay switches.

Turned out to be with the switches on the reset bar.

The top switch circled in red needed to be closed before the switch circled in blue was released.

What a pain in the ass lol.

Thanks again for your help. Now it’s onto refurbishing the coin door.

Blake

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Thanks again for the help.
Blake