I'm sure were both screwed!

TP-3 on the power supply is 12 volts, but I don't know if the EL wire high frequency power supply will cause noise to the other boards or not.

Why don't you leave them on all the time and then have the flasher signal turn them off, this can be done with a relay.

What happens when you ground the metal tab of Q-31?

Here is a pic of a Cpu board that I have circled Q-31 in red. I also included a pic of the transistor so you can see the metal tab on the top. If you turn on the game and put it in solenoid test and lock it on solenoid 12 a/c select and then hold one end of the jumper wire on the ground braid and hold the other end to the metal tab of Q-31. Each time the a/c relay clicks the the flash bulb should light, if the flash bulb doesn't light then you have a wiring issue. If your flash lamp does light then you have a Cpu board problem.

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Not sure if its good news or not.

No. The only thing both have in common is the orange power wire. Now this power wire is daisy chained form one flasher to the next. So if the ray gun orange wire ran back to the gab flasher and then it ran somewhere else like the magnet and it broke off at the magnet it would kill both the gab and the ray gun flasher. The flasher return wires run thru the inner connect board and go thru cement dropping resistors, there can be cracked headers or bad resistors. Measure R-5 on the inner connect board for ohms and compare to the label on the resistor. You can remove J-4 and J-12 from the inner connect board and check for continuity from J-4 pin 5 to J-12 pin 12, is should read the same ohms as the label on the dropping resistor R-5.

Are you able to solder on circuit boards? It broke off most likely from vibration. It can be resoldered if the lead is long enough to go through the board. When the board is out for repairs you can look for cracked header pins.

It looks like the resistor will need to be replaced as the lead will not be long enough to reuse.

Playball!

Lets say you need to troubleshoot the motor, page 2 tells you that the motor is solenoid 16. Now we will work this from the control signal (ground) to the power source. look on page 3-21 of the manual, 1J12 pin 9 is listed for solenoid 16 and it is a brn/gry wire, and Q-6 turns it on and off and the wire goes to 5J2 pin1. Move to the right of the page and find 5J2 pin1 of the aux power supply. This says its a brn/gry wire from the CPU board connector 1J12 pin 9. So I would look at the aux power supply page 3-18 5J2 pin 1. Now I see it passes thru this board to 5J6 pin 1, but it also show me that if there was a coil on solenoid 16 that the coil diode is here ( D-14 ). So back to page 3-21 to find 5J6 pin 1. It tells us the wire is headed to 2J4 pin 12. Now to page 3-22 to fine 2J4 pin 12 on the innerconnect board. On page 3-16 you will find the innerconnect board 2J4 pin 12, follow it to the right and see that it goes thru a jumper (w-11)or a resistor (R-11) and out to 2J11 and 2J12 pin 5. J11 goes to the backbox so you can disreguard it and follow 2J12 pin 5 brn/gry to the play field. Under the play field you will find this wire goes to the solenoid 16 which can be a coil, relay, flash lamp or a motor control board. My lunch break is over and I will finish tracing the power side when I get home.

As for the power side of things start by looking at page 3-20. If you look the power outputs of the aux power supply you will see 5J11 pin 9 is labeled solenoid 16 and is a red wire. Then go the page 3-18 and you will see errors in the manual as 3-18 shows that 5J11 pin 9 from F-1 fuse, and page 3-20 shows that 5J11 pin 9 is coming from F-3. Also if you look at page 3-19 it shows that the motor is powered by 5J12 pin 6 50 volts and not 25 volts, which is F-4. The best thing you can do is look at what color wire is on the motor and this will tell you if it's 25 or 50 volts.

Check Fuse F-4 on the aux power supply again.

?

Here you go!

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This is the wire your missing.

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The red and orange wires on this GI insert board connector are for A/C switched power. Red is constant power and the orange is switched on and off. The wire you need to move is the control wire (ground wire).

The voltage is called 25 volts in the manual but is not regulated. With a meter it will read @ 36-39 volts DC.

Was the magnet working with this disconnected?

Did you do a switch test?

The flyer looks like black, Bally called this color midnight grey. In reality it was a dark metallic charcoal black color.

Normal.

Are you sure that the issue is Q-6? There is a high current driver board in between Q-6 and the motor control board. You can disconnect 1J-12 connector of the CPU board, turn on the game and see if the mix master motor stops. If it keeps running then the TIP36 on the high current driver board is bad. If it stops then you can use Q-79 to replace Q-6. But it might be something else like Q-2.

System 11 boards have 22 solenoids available to be used. If you look at the Dr. Dude solenoid chart page you will see that #22 is not used. That would be special solenoid #6, which is Q-79.

Now that you wired the coil incorrectly you should replace both coil diodes. They need to be installed in the correct direction.

Once that is done you connect the blue/yellow wire to the lug that has 2 windings on it. Then one of the wires from the EOS switch goes to the middle lug. And the last lug gets the other wire from the EOS switch and the blue/violet wire.

Playball!

Marcos has this.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-8039-3

The fuse or the bridge rectifier for lamp power.

Your first pic is a GI relay board. Your second pic is a high current driver board.

The relay board is wired to have the gi on all the time except when it's activated. So if the 2 wire connector is disconnected the lights won't flash. The high current driver board is installed in-between the CPU board and the magnet coil. This is because the CPU board can only power 25 volt coils and the magnet runs on 50 volts.

Since this is solenoid #16 that controls the motor circuit, it is a 25 volt circuit and doesn't use the TIP36 transistors on the Aux power supply. Your issue is on the CPU board or the Triac board. I would disconnect 1J-12 from the CPU board, then turn on the power, did the mix master stop spinning? If yes, then your issue is with the CPU board, if no, then your problem is the triac board.

If it's the CPU board then I would replace Q-6 and Q-2 as a set, then retest to see if you have fixed it.

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Everything can be fixed with some patience.

Use the credit button to make changes.

All you need to do is match up the wire colors. None of the lights work because of the broken yellow wire. Match the stripe color up on the red wires, red/brown to red/brown, red/black to red/black and your good to go.