(Topic ID: 164606)

Geeks Wanted: Dr. Dude Club!

By TheNoTrashCougar

3 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 365 posts
  • 71 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 days ago by moonraker
  • Topic is favorited by 32 Pinsiders


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#115 2 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

Whats PPS doing for the customers who purchased the "inferior " rainbow decals?

I'm sure were both screwed!

9 months later
#146 1 year ago
Quoted from izzy:

Where's a good place to grab 12vdc?

TP-3 on the power supply is 12 volts, but I don't know if the EL wire high frequency power supply will cause noise to the other boards or not.

#147 1 year ago
Quoted from phillymadison:

That's a shame I just figured out it was called EL wire and ordered some. I would think the flashers wouldn't be on long enough to really get the effect though no? Was gonna try the GI and have them flowing all the time when the games on.

Why don't you leave them on all the time and then have the flasher signal turn them off, this can be done with a relay.

1 month later
#190 1 year ago
Quoted from mixmastapj:

Any ideas on what to try next?

What happens when you ground the metal tab of Q-31?

#192 1 year ago

Here is a pic of a Cpu board that I have circled Q-31 in red. I also included a pic of the transistor so you can see the metal tab on the top. If you turn on the game and put it in solenoid test and lock it on solenoid 12 a/c select and then hold one end of the jumper wire on the ground braid and hold the other end to the metal tab of Q-31. Each time the a/c relay clicks the the flash bulb should light, if the flash bulb doesn't light then you have a wiring issue. If your flash lamp does light then you have a Cpu board problem.

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#195 1 year ago
Quoted from mixmastapj:

"Good" news is that it didn't light.

Not sure if its good news or not.

Quoted from mixmastapj:Would this be connected to the excellent ray flasher as well?

No. The only thing both have in common is the orange power wire. Now this power wire is daisy chained form one flasher to the next. So if the ray gun orange wire ran back to the gab flasher and then it ran somewhere else like the magnet and it broke off at the magnet it would kill both the gab and the ray gun flasher. The flasher return wires run thru the inner connect board and go thru cement dropping resistors, there can be cracked headers or bad resistors. Measure R-5 on the inner connect board for ohms and compare to the label on the resistor. You can remove J-4 and J-12 from the inner connect board and check for continuity from J-4 pin 5 to J-12 pin 12, is should read the same ohms as the label on the dropping resistor R-5.

#197 1 year ago

Are you able to solder on circuit boards? It broke off most likely from vibration. It can be resoldered if the lead is long enough to go through the board. When the board is out for repairs you can look for cracked header pins.

#199 1 year ago

It looks like the resistor will need to be replaced as the lead will not be long enough to reuse.

#201 1 year ago


1 week later
#204 1 year ago
Quoted from mixmastapj:

Where do you guys find the pinouts (what controls what) on the CPU and Interconnect boards?

Lets say you need to troubleshoot the motor, page 2 tells you that the motor is solenoid 16. Now we will work this from the control signal (ground) to the power source. look on page 3-21 of the manual, 1J12 pin 9 is listed for solenoid 16 and it is a brn/gry wire, and Q-6 turns it on and off and the wire goes to 5J2 pin1. Move to the right of the page and find 5J2 pin1 of the aux power supply. This says its a brn/gry wire from the CPU board connector 1J12 pin 9. So I would look at the aux power supply page 3-18 5J2 pin 1. Now I see it passes thru this board to 5J6 pin 1, but it also show me that if there was a coil on solenoid 16 that the coil diode is here ( D-14 ). So back to page 3-21 to find 5J6 pin 1. It tells us the wire is headed to 2J4 pin 12. Now to page 3-22 to fine 2J4 pin 12 on the innerconnect board. On page 3-16 you will find the innerconnect board 2J4 pin 12, follow it to the right and see that it goes thru a jumper (w-11)or a resistor (R-11) and out to 2J11 and 2J12 pin 5. J11 goes to the backbox so you can disreguard it and follow 2J12 pin 5 brn/gry to the play field. Under the play field you will find this wire goes to the solenoid 16 which can be a coil, relay, flash lamp or a motor control board. My lunch break is over and I will finish tracing the power side when I get home.

#206 1 year ago

As for the power side of things start by looking at page 3-20. If you look the power outputs of the aux power supply you will see 5J11 pin 9 is labeled solenoid 16 and is a red wire. Then go the page 3-18 and you will see errors in the manual as 3-18 shows that 5J11 pin 9 from F-1 fuse, and page 3-20 shows that 5J11 pin 9 is coming from F-3. Also if you look at page 3-19 it shows that the motor is powered by 5J12 pin 6 50 volts and not 25 volts, which is F-4. The best thing you can do is look at what color wire is on the motor and this will tell you if it's 25 or 50 volts.

1 month later
#234 1 year ago
Quoted from RNBTAXI:

The problem occurred in all areas at the same time.

Check Fuse F-4 on the aux power supply again.

1 year later
#330 4 months ago


Here you go!

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#332 4 months ago

This is the wire your missing.

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#334 4 months ago
Quoted from ajfclark:

Where's the other side of that flash lamp go?

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#336 4 months ago
Quoted from ajfclark:

Seems a bit weird to have one side of the flasher on the GI connector though? I would've expected both on the same one.

The red and orange wires on this GI insert board connector are for A/C switched power. Red is constant power and the orange is switched on and off. The wire you need to move is the control wire (ground wire).

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