(Topic ID: 164606)

Geeks Wanted: Dr. Dude Club!

By TheNoTrashCougar

7 years ago


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#311 4 years ago

I'm trying to bring a Dr Dude back from the dead and I'm missing a plastic. Can anyone provide a scan of the one over the shooter lane? The best I can find is this one (missing graphics) currently on Ebay. Thanks for the help!

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2 months later
#337 4 years ago

I just picked up a DD.

Can someone explain the function of the Jackpot o meter above the mix master? (not the Dude o meter). I don't see anything in the instructions about how this increases or is collected. Thanks!

3 weeks later
#339 4 years ago

My machine came with a center post installed. I removed it because I didn't see any photos posted anywhere that showed this post installed - I assumed it was added later.
A few weeks ago I was talking to a "lifelong" pinball repair guy and he said it was originally an option and questioned why I didn't put it back on the game. He's seen a lot of these, including another WPC DD he's worked on.

So... does anyone have this center post on their machines? Maybe it was just on the WPC version? I want to restore the machine to its "stock" condition and I'm thinking I might put it back in.

Thanks for any information!

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2 weeks later
#344 4 years ago
Quoted from BenTheCartoon:

So, I’m giving my Dude the LED treatment, and addressing some issues that have popped up in the meantime. However, I just noticed this oddity. To the right of the jumper bumpers, there is a hole where a switch would normally go. And surrounding the jumper bumpers are various 10 point switches, but this one was just left out completely. You can even see under the playfield where screw holes would have gone. Looking at the manual, that switch location (40) simply says “not used“. Does anyone know why that is? It would make sense to have a 10 point switch there, and one was obviously intended to be there at some point. Has anyone added one? And if so, how would you wire it up?[quoted image][quoted image]

Mine is the same and I thought about adding a switch. As far as wiring goes, you could just wire it to switch 39, in parallel. Closing either switch will score 10 points, but either switch will register as #39 when/if you do a switch test.

Thanks for the information on the center post. Does your machine have a hole there but no post? Or no hole either?

#347 4 years ago
Quoted from BenTheCartoon:

Also, speaking of LEDs, I’m going to be placing an order from Comet after getting a sample selection from them, but I can’t decide between Sunlight White and Natural (Cool) White in certain places.
The Natural White definitely looks best for most of the clear inserts, but I go back-and-forth between the two for the slingshots and plastics. I’d like to be consistent, but some look better with Sunlight and some look better with Natural White and I can’t decide. Same for the backbox. Natural White definitely looks brighter and cleaner, which I prefer to the dimmer yellowed of Sunlight (especially for Dude, seems like he was made for “cool”), but I wonder in some cases if the Natural White is just “too much“.
What have you folks done with yours?

LED's are a bit controversial, to say the least. Personally I like cool white because i think it really makes the colors pop, and Dr Dude has a lot of vibrant colors. Even if you choose warm white I would suggest using cool white in the backbox to counteract the yellowing of the translite. I also just use clear Titan rubbers as well, which glow nicely in front of the lights. For Fun I added a blue strip light under the apron (I should have used ice-blue or white I guess, but the blue makes the thermometer glow). I also added a spot to light up the dark area just above the flippers. I know, it's not everyone's taste... just an option.

2 weeks later
#355 4 years ago

I'm wondering if anyone else has this issue:

When the magnet energizes, it affects the flippers on my machine. If either flipper button is pushed while the magnet is active, the flipper will remain in its "flipped" (EOS) position until the magnet de-energizes. This is most evident with the right flipper of course, as that is the one that is usually responsible for sending the ball toward that area. So, I have to IMMEDIATELY release the right flipper after the shot, or else the flipper will be stuck in that position for a few seconds. It really becomes a problem during multi-ball play.

An active magnet condition will not cause the flippers to flip, only to hold them in their already flipped (EOS) state. Also, both flipper mechs are brand-new complete assemblies from Marco. No wear or shorted coils. Both flipper mechs have the same symptoms.

I've seen a post about this happening to someone else, but I don't see a post about the fix.

Any ideas?

4 months later
#372 4 years ago

I have a Dr Dude that is having a magnet/flipper issue like the one one described here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dr-dude-magnet-coil-causes-flippers-to-hang-up#post-5445583

It looks like there have been a few owners that have experienced the same thing, but no one has posted a solution. Can someone help?

THANK YOU !!!

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