Dr. Dude
Bally, 1990Quoted from branlon8:I put slow changing RGBs in the pops. Since the bumper caps are uncolored it works pretty well.
My bumpers came with one each of a red, green, and yellow LED to match the other areas. It’s worked well, but I’m ready to change it up and try for the white bumpers.
Does anyone have a picture of the wiring for the left flipper coil? I took out the coil, and neglected to take a picture of which wires go where. Mine is a WPC, but i don't think that matters for the playfield.
I'm wondering if anyone else has this issue:
When the magnet energizes, it affects the flippers on my machine. If either flipper button is pushed while the magnet is active, the flipper will remain in its "flipped" (EOS) position until the magnet de-energizes. This is most evident with the right flipper of course, as that is the one that is usually responsible for sending the ball toward that area. So, I have to IMMEDIATELY release the right flipper after the shot, or else the flipper will be stuck in that position for a few seconds. It really becomes a problem during multi-ball play.
An active magnet condition will not cause the flippers to flip, only to hold them in their already flipped (EOS) state. Also, both flipper mechs are brand-new complete assemblies from Marco. No wear or shorted coils. Both flipper mechs have the same symptoms.
I've seen a post about this happening to someone else, but I don't see a post about the fix.
Any ideas?
Quoted from thc666:here u go....[quoted image]
Thank you! I stupidly did not take any pictures,
and assumed that’s how they should be wired, but wanted to be 100% sure before attempting to reattach.
Hey guys I just paid for my dr dude and it’s on its way! Nicest I’ve ever seen. Question is the seller got it from another collector and their has to be either a new hardtop or playfield in it. He doesn’t know and in one of the pics theirs no writing or badging umdernieth. How can I tell thanks
325E1FE6-2D4C-4985-A454-2D23836D3600 (resized).png63429B9D-145F-4581-A2FD-F2FCC11A6586 (resized).png83B6D927-98A9-4034-B27D-EDA6FC55CAC3 (resized).pngA50D5DF2-FE5A-4831-9942-2FF89DBDC89D (resized).pngHaven’t heard of a DR. Hardtop
Must be new playfield
Having a hard time palleting the yellow though.
Good luck and enjoy your new game.
Thanks Freddy! Yeah yellow is interesting. Couldn’t pass on the powder coating and condition. Hope it is a new pf
Hi, looking at buying my first Dr. Dude. Can anyone tell me how wide the backbox is? I've got a doorway that's like 28.75" wide, and so some games fit and some don't without fiddling with the head. Can anyone measure their's for me? Thanks!
Quoted from DakotaMike:Hi, looking at buying my first Dr. Dude. Can anyone tell me how wide the backbox is? I've got a doorway that's like 28.75" wide, and so some games fit and some don't without fiddling with the head. Can anyone measure their's for me? Thanks!
Back box is 28.75 inches
Quoted from OTRChief:Back box is 28.75 inches
Thanks. I wonder if it will fit thru since that's basically as wide as my doorway. Guess I'll find out if the guy sells his Dude to me!
I have lift off hinges on the games room door. Gives me that extra inch I need to get games in without pulling the head.
Quoted from DakotaMike:Thanks. I wonder if it will fit thru since that's basically as wide as my doorway. Guess I'll find out if the guy sells his Dude to me!
Remove the door stop trim
Pops off easy may need touch up paint for jamb but will save head decals .
Quoted from branlon8:hopefully an easy question - are the flasher bulbs (like in the raygun or in the backbox) supposed to get 37V dc or 25 V dc ?
The voltage is called 25 volts in the manual but is not regulated. With a meter it will read @ 36-39 volts DC.
Quoted from branlon8:Back on the subject of insert LEDs for Dr. Dude I recently put LEDs in all the inserts, but took them all out a few days later. LEDs don’t seem to work in Dr. Dude. The result was the insert lights were always on, I couldn’t recognize the status of my elements of coolness or which reflex targets had been hit, etc. My impression is that Dr. Dude works more with dimming than other System 11 games. Has anybody else observed this ? Do I need special LEDs with slow response times?
I finally found the solution for this issue. Some (silly) person had put in two diodes for each lamp in the dude-o-meter and they were pointed in the opposite directions ! I cut away the diodes on the socket side of the board. All the original diodes in the board were ok. If somebody can offer a plausible explanation why someone would install two diodes going in opposite directions I would feel enlightened. Oddly, there were additional instances of double diodes on some five or so individual BA9 insert bulbs.
After removing all these diodes, LEDs work great in Dr. Dude.
One amusing (at least to me now, not then) side story was after installing all the LEDs and starting the game, none of the LEDs in the Dude-o-meter worked. I kept removing the board, reflowing the plug connections, changing diodes - until I realized that none of the bulbs are lit when you are at the bottom of the Dude-o-meter scale. After your first multiball, then the lowest lamp lights. With the double diodes in, there was always at least one Dude-o-meter light on.
IMG_2643 (resized).JPGIMG_2644 (resized).JPGI think the previous "tech" didn't know the diodes were mounted to the top of the board and thought they were missing. It appears the extra diodes were soldered in while the light pcb was still installed on the playfield.
Larger 3 pin socket in the harness from the playfield to the backbox... Anyone know what it is, and what it's meant to connect to? Brown/Green, Black, Voilet? I had a quick scan through the manual and couldn't locate it? It might be it's not even meant to be up in the backbox.
pasted_image (resized).png
I have a Dr Dude that is having a magnet/flipper issue like the one one described here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dr-dude-magnet-coil-causes-flippers-to-hang-up#post-5445583
It looks like there have been a few owners that have experienced the same thing, but no one has posted a solution. Can someone help?
THANK YOU !!!
Delete this.
Quoted from Boise_D:Check this out friends... I installed a normal red one, but got a gold one too. A friend just made these for me. They are very solid.[quoted image]
After many years of wanting a pinball machine, I took the plunge a few days ago and decided that a Dr. Dude I came across would be my first pin. It's a little rougher around the edges in parts than the seller's pictures suggested, but it's still a machine I'm excited to now own. I've enjoyed reading through this forum thread and getting ideas about things to look for, such as the state of my BigShot and how he's mounted. He appear to be an original and in generally good shape, though upon closer inspection I see that he's ziptied through the screw holes to his post (which actually seems to work pretty well).
I'll probably post some of the following in the Alpha-Numeric support thread in hopes of finding a solution, so my apologies for the potential, partial cross-posting. My wife and I have been enjoying taking turns playing, but about 6 games in my wife noted what she described as a piece of white plastic that had appeared on the playfield and just as quickly disappeared after the ball struck it. We later found that it was a random LED that we couldn't account for at the time and just chalked it up as something that had come loose during the drive home with the machine. A little later during one of my games I saw a silver piece shoot across the playfield. I stopped the game and found that it was from one of the two spotlights in the bottom third of the playfield. Realizing this I use the random LED and the silver piece, mirroring the other instant one, and reassembled it. All appeared to be back in working order.
A game or two later I noticed that game was starting to score random 1,000 points even when a ball wasn't in play. Thinking there might still be debris from the spotlight parts, since one small portion was still missing, I took of the glass off and titled the field to see if anything came loose. Nothing seemed to shift, but afterward it starting playing normally again. A few more games down the line it started doing all kinds of scoring, including triggering the mix master and gift of gab. Finally noticed a note about pressing advance for a report (it only seemed to display every few games). After doing that I got the report: Check switch Mixer gab <b> 35. After referring to the manual I found the part of the play field identified and after manually pushing each target found that all of the mix master targets will score points and play the sounds, except for the yellow one closest to the exit. I tried working a small piece of clean paper down between the contacts to see if I could clear any possible debris or clean off any corrosion. No luck and no results, still no scoring on that target and still some random scoring. Lifted the playing field and did a quick check for any loose wires underneath in that area or any loose connectors, but all appeared to be good. Also checked the back box for any loose connections or disconnected wires (leaving no stone unturned). Again, no results.
After looking more through the manual and cross checking this thread and some others, I learned about the Switch Test and gave that a try. The results from it were an interesting sound effect and alternating between two messages: Mixer Gab <B> 06 35 and WHT-YEL ROW 4 SHORT 06 04. I'm starting to learn to decipher this (the first part seems to still be about the same switch from earlier and the new one may be about the coin door), but am still only about three days into being a pinball owner, so I appreciate your patience with me on this new journey. I appreciate any help and guidance any may be able to offer. Looking forward to being able to play more round without the machine intermittently scoring on its own. I'm happy to post any pictures of the machine that may be helpful.
Thank you for your time and consideration.
Quoted from ajfclark:Larger 3 pin socket in the harness from the playfield to the backbox... Anyone know what it is, and what it's meant to connect to? Brown/Green, Black, Voilet? I had a quick scan through the manual and couldn't locate it? It might be it's not even meant to be up in the backbox.
[quoted image]
bottom right hand corner of back box. its the only 3 wire connector i see. its bundled in beside bridge rectifier . hope this helps
20200220_170655 (resized).jpgQuoted from thc666:bottom right hand corner of back box. its the only 3 wire connector i see. its bundled in beside bridge rectifier . hope this helps[quoted image]
Thanks! That looks like what I was expeccting to see, but I can't find its nylon partner. I wonder where the other side (closer to the boards) of it goes... Hopefully I haven't lost some part of the loom...
Quoted from thc666:purple and yellow wire goes into j12 at pin 6 then loops back to go through pin 7 all the way to j5 and dead ends pin 9. start there, see if its missing. j12 connector is beside fuse f5
FOUND! Thanks, was hidsing behind the giant cap.
Quoted from ajfclark:FOUND! Thanks, was hidsing behind the giant cap.
Was the magnet working with this disconnected?
Quoted from Jestr:A little later during one of my games I saw a silver piece shoot across the playfield. I stopped the game and found that it was from one of the two spotlights in the bottom third of the playfield. Realizing this I use the random LED and the silver piece, mirroring the other intact one, and reassembled it. All appeared to be back in working order.
In checking other reference images for Dr. Dude, I realized that my mentioning of spotlights was probably pretty puzzling. I realize now that the machine I picked up has been modded to include them. As I unpack my original posting and start sharing pictures, I figured I should start with the spotlights. The right spotlight is the one I reference being knocked down and being what I initially thought could be causing the auto-scoring error I was getting. I've yet to find the translucent cover for the right spotlight, so it's either currently still lost in the depths of the machine (despite looking through a few times) or was never there to begin with. While not related to my error, I appreciate any speculation as to what machine these spotlights may have come from.
Still no luck sorting the error, but more details later.
Spotlights (resized).jpgLeftSpot (resized).jpgRightSpot (resized).jpg
Quoted from Jestr:I've yet to find the translucent cover for the right spotlight, so it's either currently still lost in the depths of the machine (despite looking through a few times) or was never there to begin with. While not related to my error, I appreciate any speculation as to what machine these spotlights may have come from.
The spotlight are standard pieces, used in games that had them. Yours has some linda LED in them. Two seperate components - can just purchase new LEDs if the missing cover of the one bugs you that much. 
Quoted from Coyote:The spotlight are standard pieces, used in games that had them. Yours has some linda LED in them. Two seperate components - can just purchase new LEDs if the missing cover of the one bugs you that much.
Thank you for the insight, I appreciate it.
Quoted from Jestr:Finally noticed a note about pressing advance for a report (it only seemed to display every few games). After doing that I got the report: Check switch Mixer gab <b> 35. After referring to the manual I found the part of the play field identified and after manually pushing each target found that all of the mix master targets will score points and play the sounds, except for the yellow one closest to the exit. I tried working a small piece of clean paper down between the contacts to see if I could clear any possible debris or clean off any corrosion. No luck and no results, still no scoring on that target and still some random scoring. Lifted the playing field and did a quick check for any loose wires underneath in that area or any loose connectors, but all appeared to be good. Also checked the back box for any loose connections or disconnected wires (leaving no stone unturned). Again, no results.
After looking more through the manual and cross checking this thread and some others, I learned about the Switch Test and gave that a try. The results from it were an interesting sound effect and alternating between two messages: Mixer Gab <B> 06 35 and WHT-YEL ROW 4 SHORT 06 04. I'm starting to learn to decipher this (the first part seems to still be about the same switch from earlier and the new one may be about the coin door), but am still only about three days into being a pinball owner, so I appreciate your patience with me on this new journey. I appreciate any help and guidance any may be able to offer. Looking forward to being able to play more round without the machine intermittently scoring on its own. I'm happy to post any pictures of the machine that may be helpful.
Thank you for your time and consideration.
Diving back into the errors, I have been looking through my machine to look for any signs of loose or stretched wires (or funky connectors), especially in the areas of the coin door and the mix master. While the mix master has a bent target that won't register hits, all of the wiring seems to be where it should be. I also check the boards in the head and didn't see anything that looked loose, disconnected, or otherwise weird (though I have a pretty novice eye and may not be looking in the right spots). I turned my attention to the coin door and finally explored one taped wire I've been curious about (included in the attached image). After removing the electrical tape I found the two ends near each other, but I don't believe they were fully connected. I wound them together and re-taped it. After turning it back on I saw the same Mixer Gab <B> 06 35, but the WHT-YEL ROW 4 SHORT 06 04 was gone. However, I now have the following three switch errors: TROUGH 1 BALL 06 11, TROUGH 2 BALL 06 12, and TROUGH 3 BALL 06 13. Not sure if I'm making progress or backsliding here, though I think the short being gone has to be positive. I appreciate any insight or guidance that any of you kind folks may have to offer. Thank you.
CoinDoor_OldSplice (resized).jpgQuoted from supermoot:Do the ball trough switches work?
I only had time this evening for a quick check. I turned it on, shot several balls, and let them all drain. The machine kept track of each drain, which ball it was on, and had no trouble kicking a new ball out to continue play. So, at least from a basic functionality standpoint, they seem to be working as nothing was impeded. If I have time tomorrow, I'll pull the glass and take a look underneath to see if anything in the trough looks to be poorly connected or otherwise catches my eye.
I'm in the club! Been wanting a Dr. Dude for a long time, and finally got a nice one (in my opinion). This will be in the collection for a LONG time!
If it looks familiar, it is because this used to be Freddy's game. Thanks to Freddy for the hookup!
IMG_1024 (resized).jpgIMG_1015 (resized).jpgIMG_1016 (resized).jpgIMG_1005 (resized).jpgIMG_1010 (resized).jpgIMG_1011 (resized).jpgIMG_1017 (resized).jpgQuoted from NewToPinball125:Just got my 1st machine and I have to say I love it! I’m pretty sure there’s room for another machine.[quoted image]
Oh, there's room. there will ALWAYS be room! LOL
Congrats on your first!
Chris
Does anyone know where to find a NOS or very nice apron for this game? Mine has some of the art worn off and while I know of the overlay, I really like the white apron and original graphics.
Thanks!
Chris
Quoted from thc666:having issues with magnet. not working at all now. it makes the sound when u hit the target but does not fire the magnet, checked fuses all good and no broken wires.
did you check for continuity on the fuse or just visually check? I'd check the associated transistor next if the fuse continuity checks out.
Quoted from thc666:having issues with magnet. not working at all now. it makes the sound when u hit the target but does not fire the magnet, checked fuses all good and no broken wires.
This one is cool
https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/dr-dude-magnetic-apron
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:Does anyone know where to find a NOS or very nice apron for this game? Mine has some of the art worn off and while I know of the overlay, I really like the white apron and original graphics.
Thanks!
Chris
https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/dr-dude-magnetic-apron
Yes, that was the "overlay" I was speaking of. I like that, but really like the white apron that is stock. Not sure which way to go with it.
Chris
Does anyone here know what the "Hot Score" award from the drops does? I was trying to get it last time I was playing on location, and playing a digital version today I think I might have got it during multiball but couldn't see what was awarded. I can't find any information elsewhere on the Internet either.
I am wondering if anyone has detailed tear down / Shop out photos for Dr Dude. I am getting ready to tear mine apart for a proper cleaning / LEDs, but am a little daunted with the ramp going through the backboard and all. Any advice is appreciated
Thanks!
Chris
I've done it twice, just take lots of pics. It doesn't hurt to have a buddy for extra hands when doing that part.
Quoted from supermoot:I've done it twice, just take lots of pics. It doesn't hurt to have a buddy for extra hands when doing that part.
Yeah, I will likely do that, but thought if someone else has already done the heavy lifting, I could use their expertice
If I can do a Capcom Airborne, I can figure this thing out. LOL
Chris
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