Does anyone have an extra plastic for ramp entrance ("Jackpot Ready")? This is the only plastic on mine that isn't original. Instead it's a poorly done reproduction. I wouldn't mind a reproduction, but haven't been able to find one sold individually. Any help or leads are appreciated!

Looking for a DR. Dude apron to replace the one on my game. Any help appreciated . Thanks in advance. freddy
Now to replace the dinged up side rails.

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Anyone seen Scott Danasi's Dr Dude? I heard its pretty fancy.

Yours looks better than mine. If you find a replacement, I'll take yours off your hands!

Since TheNoTrashCougar started this thread, perhaps he should post some pics of his fancy-shmancy Dr. Dude?

I have one of these (as well as the side blades), but it just doesn't feel quite right. A little too "loud" (I know that might be a little ironic considering it's on Dr. Dude), maybe? Or could just be the lack of cards doesn't feel quite right...

Regarding aprons, at the suggestion of another user, I messaged Mikonos about reproductions. If he can get scans of the left, right, center, and shooter aprons, he can generate vinyl overlays. My own apron is not in good enough shape to do that.

Does anyone have a good candidate and think they could provide scans? He says he needs them at 300 dpi in tiff format.

he made some really nice dr dude custom cards for me too . sorry no scanner here . I hope we can get them scans. im still asking around

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Hi!

Some user are asking me about "Dr. Dude Aprons" restoration. I have not problem to restore and reproduce them. I think I have one candidate to scan them.

I have skills and my work is so accuracy, and the most important thing for me, I like to work in this project like a fan of arcade and pinball artworks.

Some year ago I restored "Dr. Dude Centre Apron" and other plastics for one of my users (I´m Zona Arcade´s webmaster). I prepared a display for you of how I will work in this and the best way to reproduce them in my opinion.

"Dr. Dude Centre Apron" restored by Zona Arcade and Mikonos.
https://www.zonaarcade.com/fotos/capturas/Dr.%20Dude%20Centre%20Apron.%20Restored%20Mikonos.jpg
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*I take bigger screenshots and photos, for to avoid blur effect of pinside´s miniatures, click to enlarge images (and click again on display image mode if it is necessary).

Like you see, I will create a "concentric" precut shape with white colour background for all aprons. In this way you will not need to remove original serigraphy over metallic apron. All apron shapes will cover your originals.

Regards

I'm trying to bring a Dr Dude back from the dead and I'm missing a plastic. Can anyone provide a scan of the one over the shooter lane? The best I can find is this one (missing graphics) currently on Ebay. Thanks for the help!

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Let me check when I get home. A while back I replaced all the plastic on my game, most were in decent condition, to begin with. Let me see what condition that piece is in and I'll PM you.

"Your a dork"

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Missing your BigShot? Here is a remake! We have improved upon the original with embedded threads to keep him where he belongs. Get yours at pinbossmods.com. First time ordering? Use code pinboss10 at checkout for 10% off.

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Looks better than brand new. Glad to see fhis game live a longer life.

Is that Brutus the Barber Beefcake?

finally realized that i don't have any gi on my play field or coin door. checked fuses all ok. got 4.6 v on the driver board. found some interesting stuff under the play field that i have no idea about. i am a rookie but willing to learn. the first picture shows some wires wire nut together, looks like someone took them off a a connector of that mini board. no clue. second and third pic are of the area around the up kicker by the excellent ray. looks like one wire is broken off from the light socket. the other one has a loose wire. i am not going to assume anything i like this machine and dont want to kill it. any help would be great . thx

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looks like i found my real issue. if someone can take a picture of j9 connector on the interconnect board. looks like my wires pulled out of the connector dont know which wires go in which holes/ all pics i see of the show 6 wires i only got 4.

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here ya go...

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This is a great illustration as to why is is worth buying a suitable crimping tool.

thats perfect, just what i needed.

thx very much

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Bit of work to do...

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Ours all done minus getting a new shooter plate and having it powder coated.

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Sweet Jesus,

Now I want to send mine off. That looks so goooooooood.

A couple of playfield pictures.

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Amazing job. Just looks so well done! If I ever go the PC route, I would copy this exactly
Congrats!

Could anyone take a picture of the wiring for the flashlamp in the insert panel to the interconnect board? Mine is currently attached to the GI connector, but I think that's a kludge?

?

Here you go!

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That's the Insert GI connector which I have 6 wires to?
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The one labelled Insert Flashlamps (two to the left) has a connector housing in it, but no wires on mine?
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This is the wire your missing.

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Perfect. I'll have to figure out why they decided to move it to the GI connector, but I know where the extra brown came from now.

Where's the other side of that flash lamp go?

Cool. I wonder if they just accidentally pulled out the brown one and stuck it in next to the red one when htey "Fixed" it. Looking closely, the tiny end of the brown wire is still in the 10th spot on the Insert Flashers header.

Seems a bit weird to have one side of the flasher on the GI connector though? I would've expected both on the same one.

The red and orange wires on this GI insert board connector are for A/C switched power. Red is constant power and the orange is switched on and off. The wire you need to move is the control wire (ground wire).

I just picked up a DD.

Can someone explain the function of the Jackpot o meter above the mix master? (not the Dude o meter). I don't see anything in the instructions about how this increases or is collected. Thanks!

The jackpot is collected in multiball by hitting the required number of targets inside the Mixmaster. As far as I know, the initial value of the jackpot is random. However, if you clear the drops while in multiball, it will double the jackpot. Also, occasionally Bag of Tricks will award you a max jackpot.

My machine came with a center post installed. I removed it because I didn't see any photos posted anywhere that showed this post installed - I assumed it was added later.
A few weeks ago I was talking to a "lifelong" pinball repair guy and he said it was originally an option and questioned why I didn't put it back on the game. He's seen a lot of these, including another WPC DD he's worked on.

So... does anyone have this center post on their machines? Maybe it was just on the WPC version? I want to restore the machine to its "stock" condition and I'm thinking I might put it back in.

Thanks for any information!

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I don't have a post, but I don't recall if there is a hole for one. Generally speaking, if its a cleanly drilled hole with a tnut/machine thread post, its probably factory. If its a wood screw post and it jacked up the playfield, a homeowner probably installed.

While I can't be 1005 sure, I had a WPC version in one of my locations back in the 90's, and I am pretty sure it had a post. But again, it's been almost 20 years, so I could be wrong.

My WPC Dude does not have a post.

So, I’m giving my Dude the LED treatment, and addressing some issues that have popped up in the meantime. However, I just noticed this oddity. To the right of the jumper bumpers, there is a hole where a switch would normally go. And surrounding the jumper bumpers are various 10 point switches, but this one was just left out completely. You can even see under the playfield where screw holes would have gone. Looking at the manual, that switch location (40) simply says “not used“. Does anyone know why that is? It would make sense to have a 10 point switch there, and one was obviously intended to be there at some point. Has anyone added one? And if so, how would you wire it up?

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Mine is the same and I thought about adding a switch. As far as wiring goes, you could just wire it to switch 39, in parallel. Closing either switch will score 10 points, but either switch will register as #39 when/if you do a switch test.

Thanks for the information on the center post. Does your machine have a hole there but no post? Or no hole either?

Also, speaking of LEDs, I’m going to be placing an order from Comet after getting a sample selection from them, but I can’t decide between Sunlight White and Natural (Cool) White in certain places.

The Natural White definitely looks best for most of the clear inserts, but I go back-and-forth between the two for the slingshots and plastics. I’d like to be consistent, but some look better with Sunlight and some look better with Natural White and I can’t decide. Same for the backbox. Natural White definitely looks brighter and cleaner, which I prefer to the dimmer yellowed of Sunlight (especially for Dude, seems like he was made for “cool”), but I wonder in some cases if the Natural White is just “too much“.

What have you folks done with yours?

Not even a hole. The only holes are by the flippers for angle guides.

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LED's are a bit controversial, to say the least. Personally I like cool white because i think it really makes the colors pop, and Dr Dude has a lot of vibrant colors. Even if you choose warm white I would suggest using cool white in the backbox to counteract the yellowing of the translite. I also just use clear Titan rubbers as well, which glow nicely in front of the lights. For Fun I added a blue strip light under the apron (I should have used ice-blue or white I guess, but the blue makes the thermometer glow). I also added a spot to light up the dark area just above the flippers. I know, it's not everyone's taste... just an option.

I’m in agreement that the cool whites really make Dude pop. I’m going to use sunlight white in the pop bumpers, and maybeunder a couple of the plastics that are more orange than blue. Warm whites I am reserving for the yellow inserts.

I know it’s a controversial topic, but as many of us are outfitting the dude with LEDs, I’m interested to see what everyone else is going with.

(Side question: are the screws immediately next to the green and yellow tubes on the mixmaster actually attached to anything, or just there for decoration? The front area isn’t really secured to anything like the back is with Hex nuts. The screw by the red tube appears to be secured into the wood, but there isn’t anything for that same screw to dig into on the green and yellow areas.)

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If I remember correctly from the last time I took apart my Mixmaster, those screws are just there for the wires to wrap around on the underside of the plastic.

I put slow changing RGBs in the pops. Since the bumper caps are uncolored it works pretty well.