(Topic ID: 164606)

Geeks Wanted: Dr. Dude Club!


By TheNoTrashCougar

3 years ago



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  • 351 posts
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  • Latest reply 17 hours ago by BenTheCartoon
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There are 351 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 8.
#201 1 year ago

Playball!

#202 1 year ago

Does the switch in the back right loop actually do anything? Just noticed mine was mixed in with the other wires and the bracket appears to be missing. Was gonna pick up the switch (which I could easily find in the manual) but was unable to determine exactly which bracket goes there. Is it the same one on the outlanes?

EDIT: Welp. In trying to find out what that switch did, I found another switch down there, the one that apparently mounts behind the wall on the ramp before the mixmaster.

Additionally, went watching videos trying to figure out what they did, and realized my GI doesn't do nearly the cool stuff some of these other Dr Dudes do.

When I bought the game, I immediately sent it out for repair (bought a game with a real hack job of wires) Repair guy got it running and the GI works great, it's just 100% constant all the time. No blinking at all. Gotta do some more digging when I'm not super tired.

#203 1 year ago

Since GRUMPY is clearly the MVP of this thread, I'm feeling a bit ashamed of taking all of his sage advice (Needed a new relay board for the above problem, but more importantly, we troubleshooted all the other possibilities along the way via the board, solder joints, etc.)

Where do you guys find the pinouts (what controls what) on the CPU and Interconnect boards? The schematic PDFs are a bit hard for my novice eyes to read. Did everyone just buy a manual so that they were much better than the scans people have uploaded? Or is everything online satisfactory and I'm just not looking hard enough? I did something stupid while doing something smart and need to find the stops the mixmaster motor cables make and can't figure it out once it hits the loom. Not sure if it's wiriing/triage board/fuse/whatever related. Have a multimeter and know how to use it, just don't know where to use it

#204 1 year ago
Quoted from mixmastapj:

Where do you guys find the pinouts (what controls what) on the CPU and Interconnect boards?

Lets say you need to troubleshoot the motor, page 2 tells you that the motor is solenoid 16. Now we will work this from the control signal (ground) to the power source. look on page 3-21 of the manual, 1J12 pin 9 is listed for solenoid 16 and it is a brn/gry wire, and Q-6 turns it on and off and the wire goes to 5J2 pin1. Move to the right of the page and find 5J2 pin1 of the aux power supply. This says its a brn/gry wire from the CPU board connector 1J12 pin 9. So I would look at the aux power supply page 3-18 5J2 pin 1. Now I see it passes thru this board to 5J6 pin 1, but it also show me that if there was a coil on solenoid 16 that the coil diode is here ( D-14 ). So back to page 3-21 to find 5J6 pin 1. It tells us the wire is headed to 2J4 pin 12. Now to page 3-22 to fine 2J4 pin 12 on the innerconnect board. On page 3-16 you will find the innerconnect board 2J4 pin 12, follow it to the right and see that it goes thru a jumper (w-11)or a resistor (R-11) and out to 2J11 and 2J12 pin 5. J11 goes to the backbox so you can disreguard it and follow 2J12 pin 5 brn/gry to the play field. Under the play field you will find this wire goes to the solenoid 16 which can be a coil, relay, flash lamp or a motor control board. My lunch break is over and I will finish tracing the power side when I get home.

#205 1 year ago

Let me just chime in and let you guys know your hotel room is ready lol

#206 1 year ago

As for the power side of things start by looking at page 3-20. If you look the power outputs of the aux power supply you will see 5J11 pin 9 is labeled solenoid 16 and is a red wire. Then go the page 3-18 and you will see errors in the manual as 3-18 shows that 5J11 pin 9 from F-1 fuse, and page 3-20 shows that 5J11 pin 9 is coming from F-3. Also if you look at page 3-19 it shows that the motor is powered by 5J12 pin 6 50 volts and not 25 volts, which is F-4. The best thing you can do is look at what color wire is on the motor and this will tell you if it's 25 or 50 volts.

1 week later
-1
#207 1 year ago

Decided to go ahead and sell these Big shot figures off there's another pin I'm dying for! If anybody wants to make me a pp f&f reasonable offer pm me dudes. The loose BS figure is not sun faded at all fyi.

ebay.com link

ebay.com link

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#209 1 year ago

Wow is right. Nothing against the seller, get what the market will pay, but if anyone is paying that much for a big shot, they need their heads examined. The game isn't that special and certainly not to pay that much for a piece of plastic. If it wasn't for the cool art and that it was my first pinball, it would be gone already.

#210 1 year ago
Quoted from Robl45:

Wow is right. Nothing against the seller, get what the market will pay, but if anyone is paying that much for a big shot, they need their heads examined. The game isn't that special and certainly not to pay that much for a piece of plastic. If it wasn't for the cool art and that it was my first pinball, it would be gone already.

Dude I just dropped the price to $175 for the loose figure which is mint, considering I'll have to pay 15% in fees that's more than a fair deal for a mint BSF and the 3D figure to paint and beat up.

Try and find another one in a factory WMS bag...Big Shot! lol NOS parts collecting is just part of this hobby, there's somebody out there with a drop dead mint Dr. Dude who will sleep better at night knowing he's in the coin box.

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-2
#211 1 year ago

I have the nicest Dr. Dude on the planet. Perfect playfield clear coated professionally. Perfect plastics. Perfect original plasma displays. The only proper set of Mix master decals PPS produced (it was a one off). My Big Shot is the only real flaw. It's there but was glued back on after it's backside cracked off. I'm the guy you're talking about and would never in my right mind pay $175 for a freaking plastic figure. You're insane bro. Good luck unloading that.

-1
#212 1 year ago

If your Big Shot figure is cracked, glued, painted or taped back together then you DON'T have the nicest Dr. Dude sorry to break it to you, and certiantlly not the completest refined collector I'm looking for. The going rate for them is $150 regardless of what you may think, that's what they have been selling for (scroll up). Unfortunately they will eventually all look like this, that's why he's so rare.

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#215 1 year ago

As the guy who provided the artwork to PPS for their plastics repro and the guy who got them to redo the Mixmaster decals exactly as the originals, I'm going to reach out to see if I can get this Big Shot figure reproduced as well to help everyone out and stop this overpriced BS. Then you get to hold onto your $400 masterpiece forever.

Do I have this right? Your desired buyer is someone who has a) a completely perfect machine b) a fully intact flawless Big Shot figure c) a desire to purchase another Big Shot figure for the fun of it for 1/4 the going price of the machine. Is that accurate?

-1
#216 1 year ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

As the guy who provided the artwork to PPS for their plastics repro and the guy who got them to redo the Mixmaster decals exactly as the originals, I'm going to reach out to see if I can get this Big Shot figure reproduced as well to help everyone out and stop this overpriced BS. Then you get to hold onto your $400 masterpiece forever.
Do I have this right? Your desired buyer is someone who has a) a completely perfect machine b) a fully intact flawless Big Shot figure c) a desire to purchase another Big Shot figure for the fun of it for 1/4 the going price of the machine. Is that accurate?

Stop paraphrasing my comments, your OBVIOUSLY too cheep and NOT the guy I'm looking for. For the record I paid $200 for the loose one and just dropped the "masterpiece" (lol) bagged one to $300. And let me tell you as someone involved in the toy industry for over 20 years, this figure well deserves it's value! I can think of hundreds of other vintage toys far more valuable with nowhere near the scarcity of this original figure!

IF you have them reproduced I'm sure they'll be bad knock-offs just like the PSPA ones were with no quality control of any sort. Along with charging $100 and shipping for them too! Bash the prices of these figures all you want but they both represent a time when you could get a quality replacement from the factory and didn't have to worry what you were going to actually get back for your money in the mail.

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#217 1 year ago

You clearly missed the part about nothing against the seller. I fully get it, they are rare. I wish you the best of luck in selling them, really I do. That still doesn't change the fact that anyone that wants to spend that much should be put in a straight jacket. If it was a real quality game I could see it, but as someone said, if the game goes for 2000 or whatever, 300 plus for a figure it nuts. Not to mention a figure that really does nothing in the game.

Quoted from gmkalos:

Dude I just dropped the price to $175 for the loose figure which is mint, considering I'll have to pay 15% in fees that's more than a fair deal for a mint BSF and the 3D figure to paint and beat up.
Try and find another one in a factory WMS bag...Big Shot! lol NOS parts collecting is just part of this hobby, there's somebody out there with a drop dead mint Dr. Dude who will sleep better at night knowing he's in the coin box.

-1
#218 1 year ago
Quoted from Robl45:

You clearly missed the part about nothing against the seller. I fully get it, they are rare. I wish you the best of luck in selling them, really I do. That still doesn't change the fact that anyone that wants to spend that much should be put in a straight jacket. If it was a real quality game I could see it, but as someone said, if the game goes for 2000 or whatever, 300 plus for a figure it nuts. Not to mention a figure that really does nothing in the game.

And you clearly missed that fact that the going rate for these are and have been for YEARS $150! In fact prior to me finding those 4 and the mint in bag BSF from an old operator "The Round Man" there wasn't 1 BSF for sale on ebay for over a year! Here's a screen shot of 5 SOLD listings on ebay around November when we found these guys, there's 18 bids on the first figure listed. I can see what you're talking about this being a rather run of the mill game, but condition is everything. I could easily see a hot-roded Dr Dude sell for $3K-4K that's about what I sold my PZ for! So if someone wants it either for use or display this is what I value it as take it or leave it. Right now you can buy a resin knock-off (probably licensed by Planetary) lol for $85, or get a 3D printed one from Germany for $30 but find me another Big Shot on the market today, you cant and you probably wont for a long time once mine are scooped up. Both figures appeal to NOS collectors, toy collectors and collectors of just rare stuff not just the Dudes, but I thought I'd offer it up here first. Now I kinda wish I never even posted it here. There's rare playfield parts, prototype stuff and artwork out there worth 10x the amount of a Dr. Dude pinball machine.

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#219 1 year ago

Here's 8 shitty knock-off's sold recently on ebay for $85 a pop! There indestructible, nicely hand painted but the arms don't move and in years to come most likely totally worthless. A great stand in but adds no real value to the game, most people know how hard it is to see one of these figures in a game that's not broken.

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#220 1 year ago

Hey, guys..
Take it to PM.

Those that care will be watching it on eBay. Those that don't, aren't. End of story.

#221 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Hey, guys..
Take it to PM.
Those that care will be watching it on eBay. Those that don't, aren't. End of story.

Nuff said...BUB! lol

#222 1 year ago

Anyone got an extra ring and rod assembly for the pop bumpers? Mine had a screw broken off in one of them and the clear cap keeps bouncing around on it since it's only got 1 screw holding it in.

Doesn't look like anyone has any in stock at the moment, but if I'm missing it somewhere, let me know and I'll buy 3. I'd rather just rebuild them all with new ones all at the same time, but if I just gotta make do and grab a used one, that works too.

A-12854

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#223 1 year ago

I recently acquired Dr. Dude as my first pin and am loving it. However, I've noticed that the ball frequently takes a weird bounce and ends up stuck on top of the Heart of RnR plastic. Usually can only get it down with a major tilt. Has anyone else had this issue?

Another place it tends to get stuck is just to the left of the pop bumpers. There is a sort of cradle between the plastics under the ramp that the ball settles into. Is there supposed to be a rubber there?

Thanks in advance for the advice!

#224 1 year ago
Quoted from sporazoa:

Another place it tends to get stuck is just to the left of the pop bumpers. There is a sort of cradle between the plastics under the ramp that the ball settles into. Is there supposed to be a rubber there?

I have never had a ball get stuck on top of the heart of rock & roll plastic. The attached photo shows the rubbers I have in the pop bumper area. The manual calls for a 4 inch rubber in this area. This is wrong and will not work. It takes two 2 or 2.5 inch rubbers.

PopBumperRubbers (resized).JPG

#225 1 year ago

I agree, I don't think I've really had a ball get stuck on Dr. dude.

#226 1 year ago
Quoted from sporazoa:

I recently acquired Dr. Dude as my first pin and am loving it. However, I've noticed that the ball frequently takes a weird bounce and ends up stuck on top of the Heart of RnR plastic. Usually can only get it down with a major tilt. Has anyone else had this issue?

I’ve had this problem often enough that I took a small angle bracket and bolt (around an inch) and some nuts to build a simple construction to prevent the ball from getting stuck there. I just used the existing holes in the plastic so it’s a reversible mod. You can’t really see it when you’re playing because it’s hidden by the heart plastic. It’s real simple, I recommend to experiment, but if there’s interest I can make a photo when I’m home again.

#227 1 year ago
Quoted from sporazoa:

I recently acquired Dr. Dude as my first pin and am loving it. However, I've noticed that the ball frequently takes a weird bounce and ends up stuck on top of the Heart of RnR plastic. Usually can only get it down with a major tilt. Has anyone else had this issue?

I just picked up a Dr Dude and while it was in freeplay at Allentown a ball got stuck on top of the Heart of RnR plastic a few times as well. My game is in need of a topside tear-down and plastics replacement so I'm not sure if it was just getting stuck on a cracked plastic or what.

#228 1 year ago
Quoted from mixmastapj:

Where do you guys find the pinouts (what controls what) on the CPU and Interconnect boards? The schematic PDFs are a bit hard for my novice eyes to read. Did everyone just buy a manual so that they were much better than the scans people have uploaded?

I found the schematic scans in IPDB for Dr. Dude to be rather poor. Many of the scans for other games are excellent.

#229 1 year ago
Quoted from OTRChief:

I have never had a ball get stuck on top of the heart of rock & roll plastic. The attached photo shows the rubbers I have in the pop bumper area. The manual calls for a 4 inch rubber in this area. This is wrong and will not work. It takes two 2 or 2.5 inch rubbers.

Thanks for the pic and explanation otrchief . The rubbers installed on mine don't go all the way across, so that's clearly the problem.

Quoted from branlon8:

I’ve had this problem often enough that I took a small angle bracket and bolt (around an inch) and some nuts to build a simple construction to prevent the ball from getting stuck there. I just used the existing holes in the plastic so it’s a reversible mod. You can’t really see it when you’re playing because it’s hidden by the heart plastic. It’s real simple, I recommend to experiment, but if there’s interest I can make a photo when I’m home again.

branlon8 Sounds like a simple enough solution. If you could post a pic when you get a chance, that would be awesome!

Sounds like I've got some fiddling to do!

2 weeks later
#230 1 year ago

Can anyone please post a picture of their coin door service button wiring. I am replacing mine and want to make sure it gets done right. Thanks in advance.

#231 1 year ago
Quoted from shlockdoc:

Can anyone please post a picture of their coin door service button wiring. I am replacing mine and want to make sure it gets done right. Thanks in advance.

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#232 1 year ago

I own Dr Dude. The ball does not eject from Reflex # 2 and # 3. The magnet and release also does not work at Reflex # 1. The problem occurred in all areas at the same time. I checked all fuses in the auxiliary board using a multi meter and all fuses emit a continuous beep. Can anyone advise what might be the cause of the problem? The machine worked fine for the first 6 or 8 games.

#234 1 year ago
Quoted from RNBTAXI:

The problem occurred in all areas at the same time.

Check Fuse F-4 on the aux power supply again.

#235 1 year ago

The Dude I'm picking up is missing the artwork on front (coin door). I really don't want to buy a full set of decals just for it. Would someone have a scan of it or a left over decal they would part with?

#236 1 year ago
Quoted from slgerber:

The Dude I'm picking up is missing the artwork on front (coin door). I really don't want to buy a full set of decals just for it. Would someone have a scan of it or a left over decal they would part with?

I doubt it would match all that well. I know some are prone to fade more than others, but I can't imagine after close to 30 years that a new decal is going to look the same.

#237 1 year ago
Quoted from sporazoa:

Sounds like a simple enough solution. If you could post a pic when you get a chance, that would be awesome!
Sounds like I've got some fiddling to do!

Many apologies for how late this is - where did the time go ??? I think the ball must go up there after kareeming off the reflex targets,

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#238 1 year ago

So the solution is lets have it bash into a piece of metal and damage the balls? I'm not saying its a bad idea, but I would probably put some rubber tubing or something on the screw to protect the ball. I don't really remember ever having this issue. I must not be rough enough with my games

Quoted from branlon8:

Many apologies for how late this is - where did the time go ??? I think the ball must go up there after kareeming off the reflex targets,

#239 1 year ago
Quoted from Robl45:

So the solution is lets have it bash into a piece of metal and damage the balls? I'm not saying its a bad idea, but I would probably put some rubber tubing or something on the screw to protect the ball.

I like the idea of putting some rubber on, maybe heatshrinking cable sleeves. However, the ball doesn’t hit this construction very often and when it does, I don’t think it is going at high speed.

#240 1 year ago
Quoted from Robl45:

I doubt it would match all that well. I know some are prone to fade more than others, but I can't imagine after close to 30 years that a new decal is going to look the same.

It would match better than the all black front panel that is currently there. I may take a picture/scan of one and see about color matching in Photo Shop. Make my own decal.

#241 1 year ago
Quoted from branlon8:

I like the idea of putting some rubber on, maybe heatshrinking cable sleeves. However, the ball doesn’t hit this construction very often and when it does, I don’t think it is going at high speed.

Radio Control nitro fuel tubing comes to mind.

#242 1 year ago

That heart sign is in the wrong place....it's supposed to go where the arrow is pointing.

#243 1 year ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

That heart sign is in the wrong place....it's supposed to go where the arrow is pointing.

2nd this. When I received my game it was in the wrong spot too. Even the pictures on IPDB have it in the wrong place.

#244 1 year ago

I just checked the pictures here in Pinside in the gallery and EUREKA you’re right. Thanks for pointing this out. We’ll see now if this change has an effect on balls getting stuck on top of the plastic.

#245 1 year ago

When I first got mine, it was in the wrong place too, and the previous owner/operators screwed in a bunch of red plastic posts on the heart plastic to presumably stop the problem you are having (I give them credit - it looked factory). I took all those posts out, moved the sign to the correct place, and have never had a ball hang up on that plastic.

Crazy - at least half the Dr. Dudes I've seen have the heart sign incorrectly in front. But you know it's supposed to go in back not only because the arrow points to it, but you'll see there's a cutout in back for where the heart light wire goes down into the PF.

#246 1 year ago

mine is in right place, probably why I never had a problem.

#247 1 year ago

Hey folks, I did a quick search around, has anyone ever seen the Dr.'s legs & armour powercoated orange?

#248 1 year ago
Quoted from branlon8:

I just checked the pictures here in Pinside in the gallery and EUREKA you’re right. Thanks for pointing this out. We’ll see now if this change has an effect on balls getting stuck on top of the plastic.

My Dr Dude that I picked up last month also has the Heart of Rock and roll plastic in the wrong location. That explains why a few balls got stuck up there during PinFest.

#249 1 year ago

My HoRnR sign is in the right place and yet I've still had the balls get stuck...

#250 1 year ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Hey folks, I did a quick search around, has anyone ever seen the Dr.'s legs & armour powercoated orange?

Yes, it looks good even with just the orange legs https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2647

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