It uses the standard 3 ball Williams trough popular at the time so it requires 3 balls be there. No other reason.
Quoted from gmkalos:1990 Dr. Dude Big Shot figure mint in a WMS factory sealed bag!
You selling? Because I’m buying.
Since we brought the big shot back up, I understand he's super rare, but what I don't understand is what is the point of him in the game? He serves no function in the game that I can tell?
Oh and I asked before before and never got an answer, does anyone know what type screw is used to hold the bigshot to the bracket? It doesn't seem to list that in the manual.
Quoted from ChrisS:You selling? Because I’m buying.
No these guys are going to stay with me for a while, I still want to find a nice Dr. Dude someday man thank you tho.
Quoted from Robl45:Since we brought the big shot back up, I understand he's super rare, but what I don't understand is what is the point of him in the game? He serves no function in the game that I can tell?
Oh and I asked before before and never got an answer, does anyone know what type screw is used to hold the bigshot to the bracket? It doesn't seem to list that in the manual.
He's a cool bash target, don't you feel some redemption in plumbing him..everyone has been bullied at some point. lol I personally like him because he reminds me of a Hanna-Barbera character. My second job I was a manager of a vintage toy shop for 15 years right outside D.C.(the toy exchange) I've never seen a weirder figure.
I think there is a plate that slides in the slot in his feet and I'm assuming has two #6-32 threaded holes for bolts to pass threw the two existing holes locking him in place.
Quoted from Robl45:Since we brought the big shot back up, I understand he's super rare, but what I don't understand is what is the point of him in the game? He serves no function in the game that I can tell?
Oh and I asked before before and never got an answer, does anyone know what type screw is used to hold the bigshot to the bracket? It doesn't seem to list that in the manual.
This bash toy once lost is never found again - I was lucky to have mine on my machine, but I see many without them! I haven't seen repros that were amazing either.
Quoted from marcand:This bash toy once lost is never found again - I was lucky to have mine on my machine, but I see many without them! I haven't seen repros that were amazing either.
Yea it was reproduced 3 times PSPA, indestructible 3D print from Germany and a painted molded copy with moving arms.
PSPA BSF (resized).JPG
Repro 3D Printed (resized).JPG
Repop Molded & Painted (resized).JPG
Quoted from gmkalos:Yea it was reproduced 3 times PSPA, indestructible 3D print from Germany and a painted molded copy with moving arms.
I happily stand corrected. Hope to spot these at pinball conventions around me since I would like a spare just in case mine breaks.
Quoted from gmkalos:No these guys are going to stay with me for a while, I still want to find a nice Dr. Dude someday man thank you tho.
So what was the point of posting them? Not trying to be a jerk, but its like the only reason you showed them was to brag that you had these new in bag.
I have no idea how he breaks so much. The ball doesn't touch him. The bracket doesn't smash him into anything. Idk.
Quoted from Robl45:So what was the point of posting them? Not trying to be a jerk, but its like the only reason you showed them was to brag that you had these new in bag.
This is typical pinball hobbyist culture. Horde parts till you maybe get the game someday. Many pinballers do it.
Quoted from phillymadison:I have no idea how he breaks so much. The ball doesn't touch him. The bracket doesn't smash him into anything. Idk.
This is typical pinball hobbyist culture. Horde parts till you maybe get the game someday. Many pinballers do it.
Sure I suppose, but who posts the stuff saying look what I got? Maybe its just me. I guess things are different now. I haven't bought a game since 2002. Back then I bought the game, then found the parts I wanted.
Quoted from Robl45:Sure I suppose, but who posts the stuff saying look what I got? Maybe its just me. I guess things are different now. I haven't bought a game since 2002. Back then I bought the game, then found the parts I wanted.
I think the bad move would be if I just posted the pics just to drum up some sales. I posted these pics a long time ago in the rare prototype forum but I wanted to chat with you guys about this figure. I'm sure others enjoy seeing probably the last MIB Big Shot figure on planet earth!
Quoted from marcand:I happily stand corrected. Hope to spot these at pinball conventions around me since I would like a spare just in case mine breaks.
No your right most of the repros are rough but the PSPA one was done right, there's a rumor that the arms are glued tho?
The guy I purchased it from "round man" was also the person who just recently sold off 4 loose figures, I could have bought all of them before he listed them on flebay but did not want to deprive 4 more machines of this guy. I mean come on who's going to open that package, NOS parts collecting is part of the hobby. That's why I got a loose one too. Took me over a year to find them, must have emailed over 100 operators.
FYI 3D printed Big Shot version is still available... ebay.com link: Big Shot Figur Dr Dude Pinball Machine Replika weiss white
Seriously, nothing against you and I could care less and thank god I got one of these stupid figures when I got my game back in 1998 or thereabouts. BTW, they were not easy to find then either. However I can imagine people being pretty Pissed off if they are looking to buy and someone is posting photos of the thing. Be the same if someone came in and said look at my NOS ramp for doctor dude. Someday I hope to get the game to go with it when there are probably 90% of Dr.Dudes out there with broken ramps.
Quoted from gmkalos:I think the bad move would be if I just posted the pics just to drum up some sales. I posted these pics a long time ago in the rare prototype forum but I wanted to chat with you guys about this figure. I'm sure others enjoy seeing probably the last MIB Big Shot figure on planet earth!
No your right most of the repros are rough but the PSPA one was done right, there's a rumor that the arms are glued tho?
Quoted from phillymadison:I have no idea how he breaks so much. The ball doesn't touch him. The bracket doesn't smash him into anything. Idk
I was eagerly watching for a theory for this question - why does this little guy break and what have people done with him when he breaks. Judging from the way he's attached to the game and the force being applied to the screw holes from the coil I would imagine over time the screw holes give out (it's kind of a weak design). When I bought my Dr. Dude the seller had two games and neither had a Big Shot (maybe he took it off his keeper because he thought I might ask! - which I did). But it doesn't explain to me why there aren't a lot of broken Big Shots for sale. Here my explanation is they were all thrown away when the games were routed. But even this doesn't completely explain the situation if they were reproduced several times since. Since then I have made my own which is fine.
Quoted from Robl45:Since we brought the big shot back up, I understand he's super rare, but what I don't understand is what is the point of him in the game? He serves no function in the game that I can tell?
I kind of agree with this - I almost never aim for Big Shot - doesn't really yield many points and is a bit dangerous.
Quoted from branlon8:I was eagerly watching for a theory for this question - why does this little guy break and what have people done with him when he breaks. Judging from the way he's attached to the game and the force being applied to the screw holes from the coil I would imagine over time the screw holes give out (it's kind of a weak design). When I bought my Dr. Dude the seller had two games and neither had a Big Shot (maybe he took it off his keeper because he thought I might ask! - which I did). But it doesn't explain to me why there aren't a lot of broken Big Shots for sale. Here my explanation is they were all thrown away when the games were routed. But even this doesn't completely explain the situation if they were reproduced several times since. Since then I have made my own which is fine.
I kind of agree with this - I almost never aim for Big Shot - doesn't really yield many points and is a bit dangerous.
I guess you're right. Just the movement of him going back must wear out the screw holes. He's only thin hallow plastic after all. You're also right about going for the "Big Shot" shot. It's almost suicide, but it's fun when he reacts to getting hit lol.
Quoted from gmkalos:No these guys are going to stay with me for a while, I still want to find a nice Dr. Dude someday man thank you tho.
No worries. Yeah you just don’t see NOS parts like this. Luckily mine is intact. A little worse for wear but 30 year old machines don’t often look New.
Quoted from Robl45:Be the same if someone came in and said look at my NOS ramp for doctor dude. Someday I hope to get the game to go with it when there are probably 90% of Dr.Dudes out there with broken ramps.
I mean I understand it. I wish I had been proactive and purchased some of the parts that came for sale even though at the time I was only hoping to own said machine one day.
Hell I just bought the repo ramps for GNR. Mine are in great shape but man will I be pissed if one cracks or breaks and I didn’t buy the replacements when I had the chance.
When I bought my Dr. Dude I ended up with 2 of them to make one nicer machine. One had a big shot and one had some troll figure.
It’s a bummer the repos look pretty poor for quality. Is that the 3D printing or the paint job? Guess it’s better than nothing.
BTW: Dr. Dude is a great game mine will be in my collection till I’m done with the hobby.
Sure I can understand buying the ramps or whatever to have spares if you own the game. That makes sense. Don't know that I agree on the last sentence though. Dr. Dude is special to me because it was my first pinball machine and frankly I never thought I would be able to afford another one, but aside from the cool backglass, just about every other pinball machine is probably better.
Quoted from ChrisS:I mean I understand it. I wish I had been proactive and purchased some of the parts that came for sale even though at the time I was only hoping to own said machine one day.
Hell I just bought the repo ramps for GNR. Mine are in great shape but man will I be pissed if one cracks or breaks and I didn’t buy the replacements when I had the chance.
When I bought my Dr. Dude I ended up with 2 of them to make one nicer machine. One had a big shot and one had some troll figure.
It’s a bummer the repos look pretty poor for quality. Is that the 3D printing or the paint job? Guess it’s better than nothing.
BTW: Dr. Dude is a great game mine will be in my collection till I’m done with the hobby.
Quoted from branlon8:I almost never aim for Big Shot - doesn't really yield many points and is a bit dangerous.
The Big Shot's main point incentive is that it adds 100k to the Big Score outlanes with each hit when he's lit (he's lit by completing any of the 3 elements). So strategy is kick his ass when you're near multiball, then once you're back to one ball, the outlanes are 2x....a drain can easily be worth 600k+.
Quoted from Robl45:but aside from the cool backglass, just about every other pinball machine is probably better.
How dare you......
Just like to say I love that the Dr Dude club is getting used so much today.
I brought this up before but is anyone able to make replacement decals for the apron?
I have and know about Tilt graphics magnetic apron cover. I actually gave them the measurements for it and tested the prototype for them. I like it but sometimes I like to change things up and make it look original.
Quoted from ChrisS:I mean I understand it. I wish I had been proactive and purchased some of the parts that came for sale even though at the time I was only hoping to own said machine one day.
Hell I just bought the repo ramps for GNR. Mine are in great shape but man will I be pissed if one cracks or breaks and I didn’t buy the replacements when I had the chance.
When I bought my Dr. Dude I ended up with 2 of them to make one nicer machine. One had a big shot and one had some troll figure.
It’s a bummer the repos look pretty poor for quality. Is that the 3D printing or the paint job? Guess it’s better than nothing.
BTW: Dr. Dude is a great game mine will be in my collection till I’m done with the hobby.
Well at least you got one Big Shot figure for your complete machine, if I were you I would just stick a indestructible 3D printed one up there until someone repros another one, there very reasonably priced unpainted at $28.89 shipped! I thought the copic ink markers looked pretty good it just retained the plastic sheen which was weird but very reflective in the game. I think if you were to sand the 3D printed figure first, then airbrush it and clear coat it with a semi gloss it may look a lot better?
Have to do a flipper rebuild on this guy, VUK in gift of gab is a little spotty and the excellent ray lights are hit or miss. Time to do a light shop.
Where did you get those orange rubbers/dark blue flippers Izzy. They look pretty great and would probably want to do something similar in my WCS as well.
So I got a new set of plastics from PPS and I ordered the full Plastic protector set from Pin Bits. The PPS set is nice with the only draw back is it's missing one clear plastic near the gift of gab. I emailed PPS and they said it's. It actulalypart of the set so it's not missing.
The protector set is a little weird. Like one protector is for the Xcell-Ray plastic that's above the Ray not even an air ball could hit that. And the protector for the plastic under the heart of rockin roll is too short. I tried emailing PinBits but they're terrible at answering emails unfortunately
Had a flipper die on me recently (broken link on coil piston)
Bought the marco replacement kit. Coil looked fine (and the wiring job by the previous owner was a shit show, so I opted not to replace it or the leaf switch). Replaced the coil stop and the piston, fired it up, no dice.
I imagine there's something else wrong because I'm not even getting a reaction from the button press. The wiring in this thing is a mess, but I can trace back things to places pretty well, have a voltmeter, and a soldering iron, just don't really know where to start looking.
FWIW. Game was working great, left flipper got stuck in the up position (i imagine this is when the break happened) game was turned off 30 seconds later. hasn't been turned on since.
Ideas?
Disregard! Was looking at the wrong fuse!
New issue.
After getting the whole thing back together, I enjoyed a handful of games before the flasher in the Gift of Gab section of the MixMaster as well the flasher in the excellent ray stopped working. In taking it apart, I noticed some pinched yellow wires along the route. I stripped and joined them together with a butt connector with the multimeter reading a solid connection.
It would appear that everything is making it to these connectors. I took off the mixmaster and voltmeter'd everything to the connectors. Then I checked the flasher connector on the main board (the second one in from the left was this light in particular) and everything came back clean... all the way down to the socket itself. Swapped the bulbs around, the other bayonet sockets in there were working fine, doesn't matter what I put in this one though
All fuses came back clean.
Any ideas on what to try next?
Quoted from mixmastapj:Any ideas on what to try next?
What happens when you ground the metal tab of Q-31?
Quoted from GRUMPY:What happens when you ground the metal tab of Q-31?
Gonna plead stupid here
How do I ground the metal tab of Q-31? I got a length of wire to jump whatever needed, just don't know the most efficient way to do this, or where Q-31 is. Couldn't find it on the board or the manual.
Here is a pic of a Cpu board that I have circled Q-31 in red. I also included a pic of the transistor so you can see the metal tab on the top. If you turn on the game and put it in solenoid test and lock it on solenoid 12 a/c select and then hold one end of the jumper wire on the ground braid and hold the other end to the metal tab of Q-31. Each time the a/c relay clicks the the flash bulb should light, if the flash bulb doesn't light then you have a wiring issue. If your flash lamp does light then you have a Cpu board problem.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Here is a pic of a Cpu board that I have circled Q-31 in red. I also included a pic of the transistor so you can see the metal tab on the top. If you turn on the game and put it in solenoid test and lock it on solenoid 12 a/c select and then hold one end of the jumper wire on the ground braid and hold the other end to the metal tab of Q-31. Each time the a/c relay clicks the the flash bulb should light, if the flash bulb doesn't light then you have a wiring issue. If your flash lamp does light then you have a Cpu board problem.
I wanted to preemptively thank you for how detailed and perfect this is. I'll try and post as soon as I get home. Thanks again.
"Good" news is that it didn't light. Guess I gotta dig harder for this lighting problem.
Would this be connected to the excellent ray flasher as well? Seems odd they would both die at the same time, so perhaps looking at that will fix this one?
Quoted from mixmastapj:"Good" news is that it didn't light.
Not sure if its good news or not.
Quoted from mixmastapj:Would this be connected to the excellent ray flasher as well?
No. The only thing both have in common is the orange power wire. Now this power wire is daisy chained form one flasher to the next. So if the ray gun orange wire ran back to the gab flasher and then it ran somewhere else like the magnet and it broke off at the magnet it would kill both the gab and the ray gun flasher. The flasher return wires run thru the inner connect board and go thru cement dropping resistors, there can be cracked headers or bad resistors. Measure R-5 on the inner connect board for ohms and compare to the label on the resistor. You can remove J-4 and J-12 from the inner connect board and check for continuity from J-4 pin 5 to J-12 pin 12, is should read the same ohms as the label on the dropping resistor R-5.
Didn't break out the multimeter yet before I noticed the resistor at R2 was slightly disconnected from the board. Put it in a flasher test and pressed it so it connected. Flasher (in the mixmaster gab section) lit right up.
Is this just a resolder and forget it job? Or should I look to replace it anyway? It looked like the rod just broke off the solder joint, but if that's because of excess heat bc of a larger problem, I'd rather not risk it.
Also, guess I better start inspecting the wiring for the ray.
Are you able to solder on circuit boards? It broke off most likely from vibration. It can be resoldered if the lead is long enough to go through the board. When the board is out for repairs you can look for cracked header pins.
I was able to solder it on without replacing, but am gonna order a couple anyway since that resistor heating up and unsoldering itself is a pretty known problem. Found the wiring error on the excellent ray flasher, although the ray bulbs in general are a little finicky (usually just wiggling the connector a little bit fixes the problem, might need a new connector).
Cab is better than ever since I got it Love this game. Thanks so much for your help Grumpy!
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