Mine has yellow start button, I thought someone changed it at some point. The brochure shows red start button and curvy ramp. It is also supposed to have the ridged flippers. Mine did not and I added them after I got it.

Mine had the fatter 80s style flipper bats when I bought it. I put in standard 3" modern bally bats. But now I have learned the correct rigid ones are 9/64" longer. This may help with the SDTM drains. I may go ahead and order the correct style from Marco.

I made my own Big Shot.

I bought a WWF Hasbro Marty Jannetty wrestling figure. He's 4 1/2" tall but his body moves up and down and can be compressed to under 4".

I painted him and then attached him. I think he's a lot less scary than the real one

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this is awesome!

So cool! Nice job!

Great news guys....I just received the final print of the new, improved Mixmaster decals from PPS. These are an EXACT match to the original using the same print process. Side by side they are indistinguishable from the original decals and a significant improvement over anything that's been on the market to date. I've alerted PPS that these are spot on and I imagine they will make them available very soon.

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I was just about to ask how these were going Greg! I wonder how we can make sure we get these and not the other ones from PPS when they start selling them. I hope they make a separate item number for these and not just send out the other ones until they sell out.

Ya I'm trying to figure out what to do with the ones I got from there. Bought them along with the plastic set when they hit the site.
These are much nicer.

I'll be honest - Rick was eager to get these right and kudos to him for getting the printing company on this and working to get them perfect. If it were me and already bought the 'crappy' version, I might ask Rick to send the new sheet and just pay for shipping. I have no control over that but the ones they were selling were noticeably different from the original decals so maybe he'll do that if you ask.

This is awesome. I just ordered mine today from Planetary Pinball. Cant wait to put them on.

Let us know which ones they send you. The rainbow ones or the real ones

Anyone have the WPC version?

Just a quick update. After testing the latest decals out, while they look identical to the originals, they have some of the flaws of the originals in that they peel too quickly and the adhesive is extremely sensitive so it comes off on your fingers as you adhere them. Working with print company on fixing this. Just an FYI, if you order decals from PPS you are still getting the old ones. If you want the latest and greatest OEM original match, I'd wait until PPS makes it official that they are shipping the new ones.

Whats PPS doing for the customers who purchased the "inferior " rainbow decals?

I'm sure were both screwed!

I just got an email from them today saying they are not shipping my order yet because they had problems with the current stickers. They are shipping only the new ones...here is the email.

Just to give an update on your order for the Dr Dude Glitter Decal Set, we’ve been made aware that there is an issue with the decals. We are currently not shipping the decals we have out and will instead be receiving new, correct decals. Once we receive the correct ones, we will ship out your order. The correct decals are at least 1-2 weeks back ordered.

PPS

HEY GRUMPY maybe we have a shot!

Can someone do me a flavor and grab me a picture of the area under the 'Heart of Rock 'n Roll' plastic/target there next to the ramp?

Thanks.

This is on file in my phone.

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Thank you!

I just picked up a Dr Dude a few weeks ago and am struggling to find an accurate rubber ring chart. The one in the manual is wrong. Can anyone help me out? I also need a picture of the right side of the interconnect board. I have some funky wiring going on and a picture would help, especially the J6,7,9 plugs. Thanks!

Just an FYI. I placed an order at Planetary Pinball on 4/9 for Dr. Dude glitter decals. I haven't received them yet, so I called today and they said they are still waiting to get the correct decals. I've ordered parts from them before and didn't have a problem. I'm hoping I get some soon.

I do! Apparently #7 of the prototypes, according to the digital display. Has the blue apron, which I like better, and the wavy ramp.

Looking into an LED conversion this summer.

Made my own Big Shot figure too.

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Could one of you "Dudes" help me with my Dr. Dude? Where is the manual does it talk about the Jackpot -O-meter? I recently repaired these lights. Now I'm confused as to what they are actually for. When I test all the lamps, they all work. During a game, it seems to only have #1 or #2 blinking. Thank You

The Dude O Meter simply measures where the player is at during any given time and carries overy from game to game on normal settings. The lights are steady on unless you activate multiball. Then the new level flashes. They do not flash in atract mode. Only shows the current progress.

Dr. Dude silkscreened cabinet art with original fluoro colors are done and will be on our store over the weekend ...
www.planetarypinball.com

Added over 7 years ago: DD Silkscreened Cabinet Decals are now available on the site:

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-DD-CABSET-SS&Store_Code=PP

Does anyone have an unbroken plastic (new or used) that goes on the left side of the plastic ramp they can sell me? (See picture)

I installed Cliffy Ramp protectors yesterday and they fit well and should do a great job of protecting the ends of the ramp.

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I just installed a Black Light (LED) bulb and boy...Dr. Dude pops in the black light! This pic does not do it justice...

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I like your Big Shot figure. It really doesn’t need to look like the original.

I recently removed all the glitter decals from my mixmaster and ordered new ones from Planetary Pinball (order worked out great, thanks!), but after cleaning up it which was a lot of work getting all the goo off and polishing (I used a special automotive chrome polish - mistake - it was too abrasive) I decided to wait on putting the new decals on, partly because I was thinking about investigating if it’s possible to get the mixmaster coated again first. So I put it back in and you know what - I think it looks better without decals, so I’m going to leave it without decals for the time being.

Back on the subject of insert LEDs for Dr. Dude I recently put LEDs in all the inserts, but took them all out a few days later. LEDs don’t seem to work in Dr. Dude. The result was the insert lights were always on, I couldn’t recognize the status of my elements of coolness or which reflex targets had been hit, etc. My impression is that Dr. Dude works more with dimming than other System 11 games. Has anybody else observed this ? Do I need special LEDs with slow response times?

I can comment a lot here!

I contacted Planetary Pinball and asked about the status of the decals. They wrote back saying they are like the originals now and I ordered a set. They nailed it. Sticky Silver sparkles under green red and yellow film just like the originals. So if you want these decals it's safe to order them.

I actually just striped my mixmaster this week. Taking the colored film off and putting Goo gone on the remaining glue and sparkles worked well with letting it sit for about 5 minutes. Sparkles everywhere but it worked well.

Like most mixmasters it had wear spots and wasn't as shinny as it should be. I read some people used siliver spray paint to redo it but spray paint never gets the mirror siliver look like the top of the can (false advertising ) I then read that the mixmaster is actually Vaccum Metalized a process that gives plastics that chrome look. A little Google-fu and I found a few places that could do it for me. The places that do this range from doing any small items you have to mass volume. There's one in California that seemed promising they wanted $48 each piece but they said I had to take it apart to make 4 pieces which made it $192! I then found another place in Michigan they said they could do it for $58 total not per piece. So I sent my mixmaster to them and will report back how it comes out. They said it'll be about 3 weeks.

As for LED's my Dr dude is Leded and it works great. The only thing I had to do was a diode mod to make the led flashers not flash when I hit the flippers. This only effects the flashers though which most don't led anyway. As for the inserts and GI I had no issues leding them. The inserts go on and off when they're supposed to on my machine.

I used non ghosting LEDs in my Dude. Worked perfectly. Most system 11 games require that; at least the ones I've encountered.

thanks for the information. I’ll be very interested how that works with vacuum metalization. When I think about it it makes a lot more sense than a galvanic type chrome coating. It also explains why using chrome cleaner is a bad idea - metalization layers are a lot thinner.

Regarding the LEDs - maybe there’s some other issue with my Dr. Dude because I also tried some non ghosting LEDs and they didn’t look right. My investigations will continue.

Sounds like a possible shorted socket. When I put LEDs in my game and turned it back on...I had several inserts that seemed to always flicker and never went out completely. Then I noticed the one dome light on the mix master was out completely (those are controlled lamps not flashers). Here I shorted out the tabs under that socket when I installed the led. Check those sockets first ...they are easily shorted.

I took out a column transitor when I was converting to LEDs. Once I replaced it the insert LEDs worked just fine.

thanks for the replies. When I said the LEDs in inserts were always on - this was a bit inaccurate - they were flickering, but with a much more intense on phase - also the ones which were supposed to be off. So here’s my thought and question - the dude lamps in the middle just above the flipper fingers - on my game they are all always on, but the ones which are supposed to be on to show your dude status are brighter. They also have this very slow pulsing effect which actually looks really cool, kind of like a smoldering fire - I always thought it was supposed to look like this, but now I’m thinking maybe not (or now that I think about it obviously not!) - also, the other lamps on column 8 do kind of the same thing. So I need to investigate column 8 - could indeed be the transistor- a misbehaving transistor in one column would of course affect all the rows.

I don't usually post "show off pics" but I've been giving dude some attention lately.

Full Orange Rubber set from Titan
Full New Plastic Set from PPS
New sparkle decals from PPS
Had the mixmaster re-metalized http://www.vacuumorna-metal.com

Can also be seen but already had side blades and apron magnet from Tilt Graphics.
And LED's from Comet pinball Flashers too with the flasher hack and color changing LED's for the pop bumpers

I would really love to get some kind of wire chaser lights to replace the fake wires that go to the mixmaster. I've seen phone charger wires that have it but nothing I could use for pinball.

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ya the chaser wire lights would look badass....if you ever come up with something to replace the stock ones let me know.

Whats the flasher hack and which comet led's did you use?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/adding-led-flashers-to-system-11-games

What Mr Greg linked is the flasher hack I did to have led flashers that don't go on when I hit the flippers. As for what LED's I used from Comet I'm not sure. I LEDed the Dude 2 years ago but I don't think they were any special ones. Just used white too.

And you just used the condoms over the LED bulbs I assume?

I have tried EL wire, but it's not really bright enough to be seen when using LEDs. 12v tied into the flashers under the mixmaster.

Yup

That's a shame I just figured out it was called EL wire and ordered some. I would think the flashers wouldn't be on long enough to really get the effect though no? Was gonna try the GI and have them flowing all the time when the games on.

Can somebody provide a scan of the Dude-O-Meter on the playfield? Mine is heavily damaged there...

Where's a good place to grab 12vdc? I want to EL wire. Mine is System 11.
thx

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TP-3 on the power supply is 12 volts, but I don't know if the EL wire high frequency power supply will cause noise to the other boards or not.

Why don't you leave them on all the time and then have the flasher signal turn them off, this can be done with a relay.

Both good ideas. Thx

Does anyone have tear down photos of the mix master? I put mine back together, but it doesn't spin easily. What I found, is the shaft to the platter comes thru the bearing, i add the washer and screw, tighten it down and it keeps it from spinning. Is the shaft supposed to stick out past the bearing? Mine is flush with it.
thx

Have a NOS Big Shot that I would trade for some SC domestic tokens. Anybody ?

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