Looking for a few plastics. If any one has any extras please shoot me a message!

Hi, hoping someone might have some advice to diagnose an issue: all of the insert lights are no longer working on my Dr dude. Flashers work, GI works, but literally every insert light on the playfield and also including the “I” exam lights etc on the backboard, excellent ray etc are doing nothing. Thx for any help! It’s somewhat intermittent in that it all of a sudden wasn’t working and then briefly started working again. Then, not working.

SoundS like connectors and pins.
Reflow boards and replace any burnt connectors

If everything is off then I would guess either the entire column or row connector is disconnected. Start simple and just check everything is connected right. If the wires are tight connectors can get pulled off if you lower the head. This happens to me on my whirlwind.

After that I would check to see if you are getting the right voltages off the board.

The fuse or the bridge rectifier for lamp power.

So i searched the forum and couldn't find anyone else having this problem. My gift of gab shot registers about 20% of the time and causes the game to go into ball search. My ball popper works great and kicks it out, i have a feeling its the adjustment of the leaf switch and ball popper cap.

Does anyone know how to adjust that switch or have a picture of their working switch. Its the ball popper assembly (D-1135-1) and the Y leaf switch (A-11657). I think at this point it may be best just to get a new leaf switch, unless there is a way to get the current one back in shape .

Thank you in advance.

Does the switch work in test mode? If it is flakey there I would just recommend replacing it. I don't think they are too expensive.

Thank you for the reply.

Yes, and i can manually trigger the switch. It works fine, when putting the ball on the cap sometimes switch does not compress enough to make contact which leads me to believe its been adjusted too many times. I can clearly see its bent pretty good that's why I wanted to see the appropriate gap if anyone had a pick of one.

Here is a picture of mine. How is the white plastic piece? Is it binding at all?

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This is a great pic. Thank you. My switch does look bent out of shape compared to yours. But the cap seems to be the issue and looks a little different. My cap barely moves at all, like almost not noticeable. I wonder if its bound up, does you cap move fairly freely?

Yes it floats on the solenoid rod but there is a spring in there I think. I would pull the solenoid assembly and make sure everything is free moving as it should be. There is a cross pin that may have moved on yours and bound up the plastic piece.

so I took mine apart and the white piece does not move up and down with the spring. Is it supposed to? It feels like the pin is locking it up and keep it from moving up and down.

Yes, it is supposed to move. There is a roll pin across the shaft and the plastic piece has a slot that it is suppose to ride in. I think there is a spring inside as well.

Saw the thread and thought I would show my new Dr.Dude Topper. We have it out for picks on a Dr Dude and will be available shortly through my site and Cointakers.

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Progress... Finally...

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Game Pics

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I picked up a Dr. Dude a month or so ago and am deep into the "making it right" phase. I reflowed some solder (my first time) and identified a burnt resistor. Can anyone tell me what these two boards do? I tried to trace the wires but being color blind challenges me once the wire leaves my view to run up to the backbox, etc. When I unplug the right one I can't see any issues in the game, but I'm not sure what would be missing as I haven't played it much yet. The manual calls the left one a "High Current Driver board" and Marcos calls the right one "RELAY BOARD ASSY GENERAL ILLUMINATION" despite the lights all seemingly working fine with it unplugged.

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Your first pic is a GI relay board. Your second pic is a high current driver board.

Yes, I found those labels in the manual and on Marcos. But what do they -do- in this pin? For example my GI seems to work even with the "GI Relay Board" unplugged.

Does it flash on and off? I think the relay board does the flashing. It looks like it's solenoid 10 in test. test it. The notes on the solenoid table help a little.

The relay board is wired to have the gi on all the time except when it's activated. So if the 2 wire connector is disconnected the lights won't flash. The high current driver board is installed in-between the CPU board and the magnet coil. This is because the CPU board can only power 25 volt coils and the magnet runs on 50 volts.

Awesome, thanks. I always think of relays as turning ON something higher current, not off, so that's good to know.

These relays have two sets of contacts, Normally Open (NO) and Normally Closed (NC). In the instance of the GI relay, it's used with the lights on the NC pair which opens (turns off) when the relay is activated. It could also flick between two strings of GI, but so they could have full dark at various stages on Space Station they used two GI relays, the standard white with the lights to the NC terminal and the Green GI with the light on the NO terminals.

Can someone tell me if the three screws holding the Mixmaster platter down are countersunk? Mine seems to have mylar covering the whole platter, and the replacement platter I have doesn't have holes in it. If the holes need a special bit to create, I might just leave it as is. I got the old rubber off. It was rock hard! This is my first topside teardown, and it's been going surprisingly well so far.

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Yes, I recently replaced the platter and you have to mark the holes by the old one and be VERY careful not to over tighten or you will crack the hole.
Be sure to cut out a mylar circle to the size of the platter since that is a must install over the screws.
Another thing, make sure the spinning bumper is not too high, it will scratch the mixmaster cover. (clean that one up !)
Spin by hand to ensure clearance.

And do not put a screw in the top of the post.

Has anyone come out with a 3D printable jock yet? Has anyone come up with a creative replacement toy?

Hi ALL! I finally picked up a long awaited DR DUDE yesterday ( i had been searching for a while). So this may be a silly question, does anyone know where to find a "Big shot" figure? Thank you

You can't. Crazy with 3D printing and all no one has done it! If you do find one expect to pay $150 for a plastic figure?

Can anyone do me a favor and take a picture of the back of the big shot figure? I'm restoring mine and it has been rigged up by someone. Curious to know how it connects. Thank you!

It is amazing isn't it. I have wondered if WMS stomped on people for it or something.

Nice - what type of paint do you use? Thank you

Hope these can help you out.

Chris

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So thats how it connects. Thanks a million dude!

No problem. Sorry it took so long! Let me know if you need any other pics.

And I just re-looked at those pics. My Big Shot is filthy. How embarrassing!

Chris

It's fine...
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Oh my.

Yeah, I'm about to clean it all up and send it to someone with a 3d scanner and such. I think the top portion of the legs are snapped off and then glued inside his body:
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(He is not OK)

I'm going to attempt to create the bottom half. I'm missing the bottom half. I'll post pucs. Problem is that bracket is broke he sets on and no one has it I believe?

You mean to say "ohwww!"

It should be trivial to make. I can put up dimensions easily enough.

A friend sketched up the bracket for the Gift of Gab for me actually as I was missing that:
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Obviously that's in mm. Divide by 25.4 for weird units.

Does anyone have a clear picture of connector J4 on the interconnect board? I’m troubleshooting a Dr. dude for a friend and someone prior had wires wrong. Mr. big was being triggered by the pop bumpers and other coils. That turned out to be his coil wire was connected to connector J 12 which is for the flashers. Every time a flasher went off Mr. big would jump around and sometimes lock on. I also corrected the heart and gift of gab flashers because they were
swapped in the wrong spot.

It has been hard to find accurate wiring diagrams for this game and it is odd that I have two brown blue wires.

The game also has the WPC P-6 Roms installed Which very well could be the cause of the issue. I burned the two correct ROMs for the system 11c. U26 and U27 But the game didn’t boot when I installed them. Might be because I used 512K chips instead of 256K. I didn’t want to erase and burn over the installed rum since the game boots up and plays just with that odd behavior. I don’t want to be stuck falling back with an unbeatable game so I may have to see if any friends have the correct size chips.

In the meantime I would like to be sure to get the wiring to that connector correct.

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Here you go

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Great thanks!

I was able to double the ROM size for the larger 512k chips and now have the game booting with the correct ROMS.

I have J4 corrected.

EDIT - searching image gallery first. It was J4 I could not find a clear photo of, but J12 had good pics in the thread gallery. Now I still have a brown/blue wire that appears should go to J12. If possible, could I get a pic of the J12 wiring?

I noticed the motor for the mixer spinner never comes on. All the flasher in that area light up when I make the ramp. So that will be next troubleshooting once I know the connector wiring is all correct.

Thanks again.

Fixed!

Man oh man, the guy who worked on this prior was either color blind or didn't take photos of the connectors before replacing them and went on memory.

4 wrongly placed wires on J12 and two on J4.

Shopping out Dr dude and came across this cut wire behind big shot.
1st picture is backside of PLayfield showing connector 2nd is top side showing it terminate.

What did these wires go to ?

Thanks

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That went to the gift of gab flasher and bulb assembly. Should have looked like this:

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I'm missing mine too so I got a friend to draw up the bracket for me. Dimensions in mm:
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Interesting how side connected on mine is wired to. A 906 bulb and your pic shows 89 bulb

Thanks for the info

From memory, both the Big Shot flasher and Gift of Gab assembly connect through that hole.