Looks correct based on my teardown:

_MG_3893 (resized).JPG

Thanks for the pic. That entire bracket is missing in mine so I'll have to order some stuff.

The second set of wires from the 4 pin go to a #906 flasher in the background, correct?

The bracket screws to the left post that holds the gift of gab?

Yes, I believe that description is correct.

Thanks heaps! Will dig around and make up a bracket. Thanks so much for your help.

Wanted to ask - has anyone put in the a repro translite? i picked up the translite and I need to use the original hologram. not sure the best way to go about this. want to make sure i don't screw up the process and ruin the hologram portion. any help would be appreciated
thanks

Some restoration progress.
Head and playfield complete, on to the cabinet decals and assembly next.

DrD-on-Rottissorie (resized).JPG

Head Done (resized).JPG

More resto progress, Decals are on and Dr Dude is up on 4 legs.

DudOnAll4s (resized).JPG

Anyone got a good picture of the wiring on the speaker panel? The wires between the speakers seem to be too short on mine for the speakers to each sit in their respective cutouts?

What color T-Molding does everyone have. I am wanting to replace mine and am not sure what color to go with (stock or contrasting)

Chris

Don’t like the uv effect?

Finally the REPLAY Foundation rescue is complete.
After the PF swap and cabinet restoration only a few minor wiring fixes required.
The Doctor is in !

Dude Done (resized).JPG

Eh, it's not really my style.

Chris

Excellent job! Inspirational!! Hopefully mine will be like this one day! Your flyer displaying method could do with a bit of upgrading though

Where'd you get that dude-tastic plunger from?

That shooter is a 1.5 IN 'Dialed In' version from Modfather.
Those flyer are protected, maybe to be framed later. (Signed by Nordman and Freres)

Cool, it suits the game I think!! Might get myself one too, if you don't mind me copying you

Does anyone know the part number for the long gate that keeps the ball from going back into the shooter lane? Mine broke.

I measure the diameter of the broken gate with calipers, then buy a piece of SS tig filler rod in the closest diameter I can and bend something up. Close enough is good enough in a lot of instances, you're just trying to stop the ball rolling back into the shooter lane.

My best guess from the parts list given on ipdb is https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=12-6893-1

I just went ahead and made one!

PXL_20210627_200802178 (resized).jpg

I suspect that wire will be too soft and won't keep its shape after playing for a while. If it doesn't work I measured the wire on my machine at it is .08", I used this hardened SS wire from MCM (89085K86):

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/127/4057/

After I brought him home and a good cleaning and de-hacking I have the Dr. running. I have a display issue. The message that says "The Doctor is in" is missing the the 'D' (The octor is in). I have ran the display test and all of the segments work properly. Probably why the message was shut off. Any ideas where to look?

One simple fix that has worked for me in the past is simply to remove and replace the connectors on both sides. I think they get a little corrosion or something. Probably won't work but worth trying.

i gave it a try, no joy. figured it was worth a shot. I changed the message to custom and the first line is still messed up. I'm thinking may a ram issue.

Well it is always worth trying the easy stuff first. I would think about reposting in the System 11 club as this is a generic problem and I think this Dr. Dude group is relatively small.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/system-11-club

Or you can always ask Lloyd, he has helped me in the past.

Join the club, buy my machine !!

Machine - For Sale

Dr. Dude Archived

Fully restored (full original status) - “Up for sale is a fully restored Dr Dude. (full dis-assembly - super clean !) This is not a typical restore, this may be the most complete restoration of a Dr Dude so far. (no sign...”

2021-08-12

Westerville, OH

Budwin

5,600 (OBO)

Archived after: 21 days

Viewed: 523 times

Status: Sold (amount private)

Contributed to Pinside

Got positive feedback

I've found GRUMPY to be a font of knowledge about sys11 issues too.

Holy cow that is beautiful!!!!

Fantastic job on that one!

Chris

I have been playing this game digitally for years and it always started out at Dude. Now that I got one I noticed it carries over the dude meter every game as well as others I have watched online. Is this a setting? If so what is everyones preference?

wanted to ask if anyone replaced the speaker in the bottom of the cab what did they use? i was not sure if it has to be a special speaker or ???? they work but since i am going through the machine thought new one might punch it up a little

I used a Parts Express speaker:
Cabinet 6 1/2 IN Woofer $26.98
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-DC160-8-6-1-2-Classic-Woofer-295-305
(no modification bolt pattern aligns perfect)

I recommend a Lpad to reduce volume on the top speakers to balance the sound.
Guide to add L-Pad - http://www.dziedzic.us/wpc_speaker_sound_info.html

Many Thanks! ordered.
i will be putting up some pictures soon, just finishing out a restoration.

This guide is WPC era. Does the pre-DCS bit still apply to System11 or is there some modifications that need to be made?

Not much different.
Just get the Lpad connected to the top speakers.
I cannot find my schematic of the sys11 audio.
I seem to remember those speakers were wired in parallel too.
There was something on Pinside about a Whirlwind sound upgrade here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cabinet-speaker-size-and-wiring-williams-system-11
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/system-11-speaker-upgrade-for-65

Yeah, the manual isn't great:
pasted_image (resized).png

The backbox speakers are wired in parallel in both my system 11s here (11b and 11c).

Made an orange ramp as a special order for a customer today! I'll be interested to see how it will look in the game...I am thinking it will fit quite well.

20210908_192350 (resized).jpg

I think it looks great but would like to see how it looks in game.

If anyone needs dimple templates, I made a set for Dr Dude. (top and bottom)

Machine - For Sale

NOS+clear coated Dr. Dude Playfield Featured Archived

OIB - Old in box (older than 3 years, never unboxed) - “Here we have a NOS Dr. Dude playfield. I was told this is the only one in existence but I'm sure someone might call me a dope and say "they have one too" in which case...oops. I ...”

2021-09-10

Dallas, TX

UrethraFranklin

1,300 (OBO)

Archived after: 9 days

Viewed: 338 times

Status: Not sold

Of course in this machine the one resistor that was changed is the one that's still broken... and wrong resistance, wattage, etc. Oh well, At least I know why my Gab flashers weren't:
pasted_image (resized).png

There's a discrepancy between the manual and the label inside the backbox on my Dr Dude:
cabinet decal (resized).png manual (resized).png

F1 the backbox says 5 and the manual says 2.5.
F4 the backbox says 7 and the manual says 2.5.
F7 the backbox says 7 and the manual says 4.

Anyone using the smaller values and getting away with it?

[edit: I just realised that the label says Rollergames. Are the manual values correct for Dr Dude?]

My Dr. Dude says the same thing on the inside:

0914212149 (resized).jpg

My F1 was 2A (not 2.5A)
My F4 was 7A
My F7 was 15A? Honestly not sure because there was no clear number except for 15. I changed it to a 4A and played a game and it seemed fine.

0914212157 (resized).jpg

Fascinating. I wonder if they just used a bunch of Rollergames backboxes because that game got canned?

Thanks for the fuse values.

Your welcome, and I am happy I found that 15A fuse. I would have never known.

Well... You might have found out the hard way at some stage when it didn't protect anything it was meant to.

Overrated fuses:
grenadefail.gif

MVP Fuses:
grenadejump.gif

Exactly

I've been considering a Dr. Dude. Once it's dialed in,is it pretty reliable,or is there something that seems to always act up? I did read through this thread,and I'm a little concerned about the GI lighting giving me trouble,since I read that the bulb sockets could cause problems with shorts ?
Thanks in advance.

The only things I'd really think gives issues with Dr Dude are generally System11 issues, but Dr Dude was one of the last ones so even those are minimised:
- the solder joints on the GI relays can crack. A common problem to all system 11s that have GI that turns on and off, and it's trivial to fix.
- the plasma displays fade as they age, or the HV section can blow up. In either case, LED replacements are available.
- ramps cracking eventually

The only specific to Dr Dude I can think of is the big shot toy breaking or the gear on the mix master wearing out.

I haven't had any issue with mine but I did restore it. To be honest I think reliability has way more to do with the history of the particular machine than the particular type of machine. Sometimes old machines break and when they do you fix them, this machine is pretty simple.

I've had no issues with mine. System 11 machines are pretty notorious for overheated GI but if it is working and you switch to LED, that should be minimized.

Chri

It is no better or worse than any other machine maintenance wise.

The main thing is getting parts, I think the big shot is made of unobtainium. It looks like a main ramp is finally available, but for the price I'll probably live with my cracked ramp. I had to take the board apart and resolder pins and other things as the GI was dim and I think burning the pins, it was a long time ago. At any rate, Honestly I don't know that I would do it, the game isn't that exciting. It was my first pin and I have nostalgia for it, but I didn't know any better when I bought my first pin and thought it looked cool. You essentially have half a playfield.