(Topic ID: 62720)

gee, its my TZ clock...I know its BROKEN! FIXED!!~

By yoshootme

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 14 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by NM
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 10 years ago

trying to put the finishing touches on my TZ shop job. of course the clock is broken and the game seems to love to make sure i know. anyhow, buy a new rottendog board. put it all back together to no avail.(still says clock is broken. still shows a credit dot). not sure what the test means with slow and fast and backwards and etc, cant imagine i put it in incorrectly, as it seemed to only go one way (put same time on etc). any help or suggestions? thx, yo

#2 10 years ago

it's not stopping at 11 o'clock when you power it on, is it?

#3 10 years ago

nope, random times

#4 10 years ago

I had the 11 o'cock problem when I put the minute hand on upside down once. The clock test isnt as complicated as it may seem. IIRC You can just put it on slow and watch the boxes on the display, watch and make sure they all get activated in sequence. I'd make sure you reseat and check your connections to the clock, too.

#5 10 years ago

reseated the 2 connections to no avail. as i go thru the test, what do the x's in the box indicate?

#6 10 years ago

morning crowd, anyone.

#7 10 years ago

X's mean the opto is closed...

Mine had some sort of same problem, moving forward ... no problem, moving backward would give me a creditdot, at random times.
With mine it was the little rod (which goes through the axel, holding the hour-arm), it was bend a little to stay in the axel and not fall out.
Moving forward that little rod was oke, moving backwards, the minute-hand touched every time that rod resulting in the dot. Bending it a little solved my problem.

Check the hour- minute-hand if they are straight, and inspect the little rod if it's not interfering.

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#8 10 years ago

run the clock test and note what optos are working correctly. Try and see if the clock hands are passing through the optos correctly. The more information you provide the easier it will be to help.

#9 10 years ago
Quoted from herbertbsharp:

run the clock test and note what optos are working correctly. Try and see if the clock hands are passing through the optos correctly. The more information you provide the easier it will be to help.

i made the assumption the opto's were good as I just put a new board in. will note what ones are closed and when and report back. thanks for your time. (and thor as well!). yo

#10 10 years ago

When I had a TZ the clock worked great in test mode but would error out after a few games then test fine in test mode. Assuming your opto's are clean and working put a small piece of shrink tubing on the part of the hand that passes thru the opto. Even a piece of tape works. If the hand is warped the small end does not always break the opto beam and would throw an error. More area on the hand breaks the beam better and I never had an error again.

If you use shrink tubing don't go nuts heating it.
The hands are plastic and will melt if you apply excessive heat..

#11 10 years ago

Check the solder joints on the clock board. I had a new rottendog clock board installed and after a few months I got the broken clock error. Turns out I had a cold solder joint on one of the optos.

#12 10 years ago
Quoted from cal50:

When I had a TZ the clock worked great in test mode but would error out after a few games then test fine in test mode. Assuming your opto's are clean and working put a small piece of shrink tubing on the part of the hand that passes thru the opto. Even a piece of tape works. If the hand is warped the small end does not always break the opto beam and would throw an error. More area on the hand breaks the beam better and I never had an error again.
If you use shrink tubing don't go nuts heating it.
The hands are plastic and will melt if you apply excessive heat..

thanks! I will try that tonight.

1 week later
#13 10 years ago
Quoted from cal50:

When I had a TZ the clock worked great in test mode but would error out after a few games then test fine in test mode. Assuming your opto's are clean and working put a small piece of shrink tubing on the part of the hand that passes thru the opto. Even a piece of tape works. If the hand is warped the small end does not always break the opto beam and would throw an error. More area on the hand breaks the beam better and I never had an error again.
If you use shrink tubing don't go nuts heating it.
The hands are plastic and will melt if you apply excessive heat..

bought a new minute hand and voila! no more credit dot. (i guess mine had warped from the heat?) thanks for the tip.

#14 10 years ago
Quoted from cal50:

When I had a TZ the clock worked great in test mode but would error out after a few games then test fine in test mode. Assuming your opto's are clean and working put a small piece of shrink tubing on the part of the hand that passes thru the opto. Even a piece of tape works. If the hand is warped the small end does not always break the opto beam and would throw an error. More area on the hand breaks the beam better and I never had an error again.

If you use shrink tubing don't go nuts heating it.
The hands are plastic and will melt if you apply excessive heat..

As mentioned above, many of these clock arms have bent outward from heat over the years, and an alternative method is heat them a bit with a heat gun and bend them back inward, so the opto triggers.

Shaggy mentions this in "Lost In The Zone".

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