Custer, WI
I have a topper made out of a real light bar. I have it setup to tie into 6 bulbs. Unfortunately. Don't have a game to finish figuring the final hookup.
It's cheaper but also a lot of work.
(Topic ID: 161622)
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Ghostbusters (LE)
Stern, 2016-
Ghostbusters (Premium)
Stern, 2016
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Ghostbusters (Pro)
Stern, 2016
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Quoted from Syco54645:Pics? Wouldn't this be too wide?
A standard backbox is about 30 inches wide. The unit I purchased (same brand but one model newer than the actual ecto 1-2 has) was 47 inches wide. It is sectional. I was able to shorten it to 36 inches. It hangs over a few inches but that's ok because the bottom of this dome is also clear. Converted it to LED and rewired it with a low volt sensor relay board.
Clear dome (like ecto 2) and actual professional quality. Still sells for $1500 new. I have about $100 in so far.
Quoted from Flato:So where do you buy your model feom?
I got it at a car swap meet, had to take it apart, un yellow the domes, and cut down the base. I then had to replace all the bulbs with LED. Went from 30-40 amp to 1.5 amp draw. I hope to rewire it this weekend and take some pictures of it on top of a game.
Quoted from Ballypin:Toasterdog-
Could you shoot more video and show it direct from the top down and also the sides? Obviously, they are using chaser leds to simulate the rotators. I'd much prefer real rotating beacons but these create a decent effect. Would also like to see the insides of one of the domes. They come off with screws, right ?
I'm in the same camp that $ 500 is WAY TOO MUCH for what they have...$ 250 is more in line. I mean, no painting or decals for the grill between the domes, should have elevated the light bar so the blue spots don't block the bar, painted or chromed the back of the blue spots, etc. Saying all this, it would be CHEAPER to get a REAL Code 3 Force 4 Lightbar but the dang thing would be way out of scale.
Stern recently posted a video tour of the factory. Facebook. They show the topper no domes performing multiple light tests.
In the same feeling of getting this thread on track. Nice job getting the siren to look weathered. He black in the grill also does the job. I personally think the canon is too high and could also use some attention but don't know what.
Rotators are expensive. To add one to a real lightbar costs about $150-200. Keep in mind my bar still sells for $1500-$2000 depending on options. Stern I do beleive is high but comparatively. I rather that offer a nice high priced option than nothing. It just a single becon. If you have the cash and think it's cool why not. What the hell for what we spend on one new game a family could buy a car and food go a year. So either way the money is a "waste" in the grand scheme of things. Lighten up and enjoy your game. I will enjoy my frivious hobby. Hell I just wasted $40 in gas and $50 in food and entrance fee to allow others to see my old car. Hmm. That too is a waste.
I have my topper wired and made a video of it on top of a different game. I hope this gets the idea of how it will fit.
I show the different modes first then light them all up. I also put a GI lights in that turn off when the red is activated. The blue rotators look purple in the video. Now I have to wait for a premium.
Fortytwo
Quoted from Ed209:How bright is that? This has to be hard on the eyes when playing.
Don't know yet. I used the lowest lumens LED bulbs I could find. Even replaced the halogens with low lumen replacements. I will have to put it on top of another game and give it a play test.
But definitely a concern from the beginning. This is for my own game, it has been a lot of work just cleaning it up and getting this far. I don't plan on making any additional ones for sale. Just showing what some hard wait has paid off for myself.
FortyTwo
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:$70 from Walmart, proper size and shape for game installation.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Blazer-Revolving-Beacon-Light-Bar/15111220
The bar runs on 12v.Convert voltage or rewire for a power module, change the dome cover to solid color as a different option, or use split color acrylic plastic for two tone. Use to two instead of one, if someone wants to go nuts for "super jackpot" extra lighting but the space would be tight.
Formed metal for a center separation bar that is not made out of plastic.
Rewire activation trigger to flasher circuit for function.
More durable, commercial grade, designed for OUTDOOR use.
Aftermarket parts could the rest, fairly cheaply, including adding real siren, additional flashers, and a working motorized cannon instead of the static one.
More features than Stern considered and included in their model.
I would run the whole thing if a person want all the additional "whizbang" features above independently due to power needs as this could not be "tapped" properly due to the SPIKE system as it just wont work, unless a voltage stepper board is used, as you still need to do fusing for protection anyway.
If someone really wants one, I can probably source the parts for them, and they can build it themselves including the motorized cannon assembly and siren module.
All I am saying is there are alternatives.
You don't need a "real" $300-2500 police bar to do the job right.
You just need to be creative.
One of the best aftermarket toppers with double beacons ever made was the RS one (http://www.pinballtoppers.com).
It is built like a tank.
Total cost?
Under $200.
Definitely doable. Nice link. It uses the same bulbs as my police one. I would definitely recommend changing them to LED bulbs. Each bulb will draw 5-7 amps. Once hanged my bar draws max 1.3 amps. Then you just need a old laptop or wall hog ps that can supply 1.5 or more.
I'm using a $10 relay board sourced from Amazon that takes logic level inputs and fires relays.
Why don't you build one up. It be great for others to know everything can be sourced without scouring for a used lightbar.
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