Congratulations! You are looking at the highest quality and most versatile Pinball playfield rotisserie for home use, ON THE PLANET!

Details:
• Supports all standard and wide-body playfields.
• Constructed from 16-gauge and 1/8-inch steel (no thin flimsy materials here).
• Fully hand-welded for maximum strength.
• Adjusting knobs to lock in the PF position (no lock-down screws that slip and damage the axles).
• Polymer axle clamps to provide smooth and damage free rotation.
• Small footprint when not in use (arrives in a re-usable 18-inch x 14-inch x 4-inch box).
• C-clamps (2-inch or 3-inch) are NOT included.
• Made in the USA!

• The PinDoc Pro Roto ($260.00) arrives in a bare, metal finish and must be painted, waxed, or oiled. NO A-frame EXTENSIONS INCLUDED. YOU PROVIDE a pair of 60" 1/2-inch electrical metal conduits or similar material to connect the A-frames.

• The PinDoc Premium Roto ($305.00) arrives in a bare metal finish and must be painted, waxed, or oiled. Also includes heavy-duty extenders constructed from 3/4-inch and 1-inch steel to connect the A-frames.

• The PinDoc LE Roto ($380.00) is powder coated in your choice of available colors and is derived from the Premium model.

CLICK BELOW FOR MORE INFO OR TO PLACE AN ORDER:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1236-pindoc-restorations

Be sure to see Cary Hardy's review on the PinDoc Rotisserie:

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The optional PinDoc SideKick attaches to the existing factory mounting brackets located on the bottom of your playfield, just like at the factory. It also provides maximum access to all playfield components and increased strength and security.

• $195.00 Shipped- Premium Sidekick
• $280.00 Shipped- LE Sidekick

CLICK BELOW FOR MORE INFO OR TO PLACE AN ORDER:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1236-pindoc-restorations

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The optional PinDoc Sliders attach to your playfield using the existing metal hanger screws currently located on the front of your playfield. Eliminates need for C-clamps. The PinDoc Sliders can also support the rear of the playfield using screws or c-clamps.

• $75.00 Shipped- Premium Sliders
• $125.00 Shipped- LE Sliders
CLICK BELOW FOR MORE INFO OR TO PLACE AN ORDER:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1236-pindoc-restorations

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Just for giggles, we were playing the game on the rotisserie. So we had to tilt it for the ball to roll.
No other reason. I will get some more detailed pics in the next day or two.

Okay looks like there is some interest. Thanks guys.

rufessor,
i am planning on posting some additional more detailed pics in the next day or two. You stated you need a "lot" more info before purchase. What other info do you really need that I did not already cover? Aiming to please here.

That particular hand-knob is 3/8" threaded, and I feel its not up to the job for here. So in my opinion, it just can not provide the clamping power that is needed to lock the playfield down. So for my design, I am using a 1/2" bolt that clamps the playfield down, and does so without any slop.

Obviously you could purchase a 1/2" hand-knob and use that instead of the bolt. But in order to keep the price down, I will likely not make that offering. I actually tested both, and the 1/2 bolt is far superior for this application, and will not wear out either.

Good question.
For basic EM and early 80's solid-state playfields. You can use some basic c-clamps to attach the PF to the rotating brackets. Those are pretty straight forward.

For more modern playfields that have a very tall back wall such as the Fire as seen in the above pics. I had to drill holes in the rotating brackets and then screw the PF down in the back. You could also use tall c-clamps as well but at some point, they might impede rotation just a bit. Or lastly, you can just disassemble whatever it takes to avoid using screws, and revert back to the standard c-clamps.

If I decide to do this, I will NOT be drilling holes in the rotating brackets again to keep the cost down. But you could very easily do this yourself based on your needs.

Your very welcome.

Could you please expand on this? I would love to hear what the issue was as to ensure the best possible tool

Okay the interest is there for sure. I am now starting the process of sourcing materials to see if that price point can be met. Still looking at this thing from a "bare bones" perspective, so its still not likely to have any hand-knobs included.

I understand the thinking of the hand-knob being a convenience. But I really want to avoid any cost adders if possible. I would much rather put that money towards better quality materials.

Again anyone can add a hand knob at a later date if they choose. But if I really thought it was a big benefit, I would have it on mine. I just lay the wrench under the rotisserie and its easily accessible when needed. Plus I have found that I am not really constantly rotating the thing anyway. It just tends to stay in one position most of the time when I am reconditioning playfields.

I guess I could "consider" a Limited Edition painted rotisserie with your choice of graphics, hand-knobs as well as a numbered plaque. But if you have to ask what it would cost - you cant afford it. Premium model might be slightly cheaper though.

I am planning on being there. How many can your crew vouch for?

Once the PF is placed in the rotisserie, the overall assembly is sturdy enough for normal use - with or without the extenders.

Only minor issue is if you do a lot of rotating of the PF in the configuration without the extenders. The rotating brackets "may" start to walk just a bit out of the frames. So to eliminate this, I am going to drill a hole in the ends of the tubing and install a hair-pin clip. This will prevent the walk-out issue completely.

So in my opinion, the big benefit of the extenders is to make it just a bit easier to attach the PF to the brackets. Other than that, they really don't have any other significant benefits except to prevent the walk-out issue. Once the rotisserie is loaded with the PF, the PF can be rotated just as easily and confidently whether you use the extenders, or not. All of the structural rigidity comes from the joining the frames halves, the brackets and the PF all together.

And as mentioned, the 3/4" square tubing extenders can be added if you want, at any later date. I will be welding the nuts on the feet so it will be ready to go. I guess you could also use round tubing or pipe you if like with equally good results. Again, the extenders simply tie the frame halves together, but dont really provide any added rigidity.

Please help me understand the "movement" you are referring to. The setup I have now feels very solid sitting on a level table and has the feel of a quality tool IMO. Also I will get a detailed video ASAP per your request.

So what I am offering is a free standing tubular unit that would simply sit on any flat surface, similar to what you see in the vid. I definitely wont be adding any height adjustment to the design because this would certainly cause a cost increase. Also the higher the PF goes relative to the foot of the rotisserie, the more top-heavy it will become and now you will have stability issues. Dont want that dude falling down.

Currently I have the rotisserie sitting on this table, and it is perfect for all my work:
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Work-Table-49/dp/B01IGIIPR2/ref=sr_1_15

I think I paid a hundred for it from Sam's Club many years ago. But there are plenty of similar tables for less than $100 available. There are countless ways to create a work surface for my rotisserie. A pair of sawhorses and some 2x4's come to mind if you want to do it on the cheap.

"Because of this the life of my thumbscrew or bolt locks are about 2 playfields"
Hence the reason I am using a 1/2" bolt. As far as a clamping mech - not likely again due to the added cost. But I will give it some thought as maybe an option down the road.

Looks like I have the metal sourced, and maybe the cardboard cartons. Will likely have to do a "field test" for them though. Last big unknown is the shipping costs.

Okay for the guys that are "really "interested, please send me a PM stating your interests, with your shipping addresses so I can can continue my research into shipping. I just want to run the rates nation wide to see what they are gonna run.

Definitely a step closer here.
Thanks.

Thanks for the interest guys. Based on your feedback, I am now doing a redesign of the rotisserie. It will still be a table top design with the following enhancements:

- Dual 3/8" hand knobs
- Zero-slop locking mechs
- Adjustable clamping force (not possible with a bolt locking mech)
- Rotating bracket axles wont "scar" from the locking mech

I need to model this up and do some testing to ensure that the clamping force is adequate first. I also need to see if i can still meet the $180 price point. I really think we are still in the same "ballpark" though.

So if all goes well, expect an even better design with more functionality.
Stay tuned!

Okay here is my new design. I am now adding 1.5" poly-clamps that can be tightened as needed to provide the desired rotating resistance. Also when fully tightened, it is locked very solid. Should be able to stand on it!...but don't do it! And looky...looky, are those dual 2" hand-knobs to replace the previous lock bolts? So no more wrench needed, and no more scarred axles either. The whole thing rotates very nicely, and very smooth as well. So as you can see, its getting better and better.

So with the new design and additional features. I will need to raise the price by only ten dollars. So the new price will be $190 shipped. But as you can see, there is a lot of improvement for that additional cost.

I have also found that you can purchase 1/2" electrical conduit in 60" lengths from Lowes, and use those for the extenders for less than $4.00. You can see them in the pics. I am also looking into offering 3/4" square tubing extenders as an option. But there is more work to be done there.

So this is just a quick teaser pic to get you guys excited. I still need to add the locking bolts for the extenders, and a few other things too. But I expect to have a final design in less than a week.

So I am going to proceed with a pilot run of 10 units to work the bugs out. I already have all of my materials sourced, and I will be ready to start building next weekend. So for now, the delivery of an un-painted rotisserie to your door, will be about 2-3 weeks, and will cost $190. So for those who are absolutely want one, please send me a PM so yours can be reserved. I will provide payment information too.

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Thanks rufessor. I really do appreciate your feedback.

I am very pleased with the way it "feels" with these new poly-clamps. Feels more polished.

I think it can pretty easily be adapted to sawhorses for your type of configuration. But it would be essential that you use some extensions in one form or another for the added security. And personally, I would use some nice sawhorses, and no the flimsy plastic, folding type. If you use these brackets, you would have very solid horses, and you can set them at the desired height as well:
https://www.amazon.com/Fulton-Medium-Duty-Sawhorse-Brackets/dp/B0002YXEIE/ref=sr_1_3

Plan on placing a pair of 60" wooden 2x4"'s to span the two sawhorses. Then place the rotisserie with the square extenders attached, on top of the 2x4's, and clamp the four feet of the rotisserie directly to the 2x4's. This would make the rotisserie and the 2x4's one very solid assembly that would simply span the sawhorses. I tested this in my shop, and it felt very as solid and secure as having the rotisserie on a bench top.

For added security, you can clamp or even the 2x4's to the sawhorses, to make one completely solid work fixture. You will be ready to go then.

It looks like I have come up with a way to offer the 3/4" square extensions as an OPTION. However, they would have to consist of three individual telescoping 20" pieces, and would lock together with lock bolts. Of course they would be adjustable to adapt to different length playfields. Providing them in full lengths, is just NOT cost feasible.

Cost for the extensions option would be $40.00 extra...making the total cost of the rotisserie $230.00 shipped to 48 states. But as mentioned, you can also use 1/2" electrical round conduit form any big-box store as well for less. Its not quite as rigid as the square tubing. But it will work none the less. Of course you can always source your own 3/4" tubing as well.

So again my pilot run of these rotisseries will be ten units, and six are already sold. Im using this pilot run is to work out any bugs, and to determine the feasibility of going mass production. So for those who want to firmly get their hands on the last four units from this run, might want to send me an PM ASAP and get it reserved.

$190 for the rotisserie
$230 for the rotisserie with extensions.

Okay for you guys asking about the powdercoat. I can do it but it will cost an additional $75.00 for satin black. I am assuming only a very small amount of folks will want one in powdercoat. So based on this, I would not be getting a volume deal on the service at least in the near term.

Again I just threw a gloss black rattle-can finish on mine for less that five dollars, and it turned out very nicely. I assume most guys will do this.

I have three more available for sale from this first run.
Again anyone who wants one of these remaining three, please send me a PM ASAP.

$190 for the rotisserie
$230 for the rotisserie with extensions.

Thanks

With all due respect. I don't think your seeing the big picture here. But please allow me the opportunity to paint a clear picture, and shamelessly promote my product at the same time.

Any $250.00 rotisserie from any on-line retailer including the shipping, is going to run you at least $270.00 -$275.00 or so.

As I have stated before, the extensions are not essential, but I do recommended them in one form or another. I have stated that you can purchase 1/2" electrical conduit from Lowe's, which can very nicely serve the purpose for my rotisserie if you want to do it on the cheap. The actual cost for these extensions would be $4.56 + tax, and they will work very nicely.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-1-2-in-Actual-0-5-In-Metallic-Emt-5-ft-Conduit/3127645

The electrical conduit will get the job done. However I would just recommend a bit of extra caution if you need to move the rotisserie with the playfield attached because the conduit is not as rigid as the square tubing. So with that said, the square tubing will provide more overall security, because it is more rigid, and that means more "security" for you valuable playfield under all conditions.

I also would like you to consider the value of you would be getting in terms of a possibly better designed product. Do you want lock bolts that don't offer any adjustable resistance of the rotation of your playfield? Do you want scored and gouged out axles on the rotating brackets from normal use? Or would you prefer an adjustable solution where you can dial in the resistance of the rotation, and not have any scored or gouged axles? I could be wrong, but I think you would likely prefer the later if given the choice. I would encourage you to analyze the pics of my design, and their design, and decide for yourself.

So with all that said. I will stand behind my claim, that you are getting a better product, with better functionality, for far less cost.

BTW, nine of of ten rotisseries for this first run are now purchased. There is one remaining and available. I would love to have your money, and I would love to provide this wonderful tool to help you with your playfield servicing, and restoration needs. If your not convinced, that's totally okay. But at the end of the day, $190 is indeed much less than $270ish.

If anyone else is interested in number ten. Please send me a PM ASAP. I have started cutting materials, and my final design is nearly complete. I will build the last prototype this weekend, and will post pics of it in this thread.

Stay tuned.

Hey guys. Well I have my fixtures built, and I have started cutting materials. Everything is still going smooth. Still working on process to ensure efficient production.

I have also settled on a final design. I am know bolting on the poly clamp assembly on the a-frame, rather than welding it on. This ensures that the rotisserie, does not become a boat anchor if threads are stripped over time. Now the poly clamp assembly can be replaced, and there is no chance of a boat anchor.

Also there is now a "hand-hold" under the axle, to better and more safely move the rotisserie with a attached playfield. The feature has allowed me to bolt on the poly-clamp as already mentioned.

Here are some pics:

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That will teach me to post high res pics.

As I already mentioned before. I would not consider myself a "welder". But I can weld stuff together and it seems to stay together pretty nicely. To answer your question. Its a Hobart 140 MIG welder. That is plenty for this job from best I can tell. I would certainly welcome any tips for improvement.

I'm honestly not concerned about the welds on the fixture at this time. Its whats on the rotisserie that counts. So I am now working on my welds to try to make them acceptable. I have already explained to everyone that has made a purchase, that the welds will be robust and wont fail. But making them pretty is going to take some time, but I have to start somewhere...right?

Here are some I just made. I am going to confident say they are robust and will not fail, if used for their intended purpose. They will get prettier in time.
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Thanks for the kind words dono. Its appreciated.

I now have all of my metal cut for this first run, and will actually start building the first ones tomorrow. Everything is still going very nicely.

Ready to put to bed any concern regarding the welds.

The design and construction is clearly robust and multi-purpose. A few beads might get a bit wild from time to time. But they will certainly get the job done. Looks like I have a leaky muffler.
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Okay guys here is the final design.

As mentioned before, the 1/2" electrical conduit (not included) certainly works well for the Pro model for $190. In fact I would not hesitate for a second to use it for my own PF restoration work. And once again, this conduit can be had for less than $5.00 at any big box store.

The square tubing extensions for the Premium model ($230.00) will work even better as you can see. The more robust materials do provide the best insurance for your PF, and the most versatility. Definitely a nice upgrade.
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ROTISSERIES IN STOCK!

All Rotisseries built have been shipped to those who have made a purchase. Thanks again.

I currently have five additional Pro models, and one premium model built, boxed and ready to ship. Anyone interested can PM for purchasing info. Any purchases made today, can ship tomorrow morning. After that, I likely wont be able to ship until next Monday. Next run wont be started till mid to late December.

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Negative on the black finish. But they still look really good in natural. I just simply can not spray-paint them for this price point. But I am looking into possible powder coating next week.

What you see there is bare metal finish. Again all rotisseries unless noted otherwise, will arrive in bare metal finish. They will need a cleaning prior to any painting.

Keen eye you have there.

Hey guys.
Just one Pro model left!

Please send me a PM if you are interested in purchasing it. Next batch will start early-mid December.

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Thanks Canadian.

eyeamred2u,
Glad it arrived. I really hope you enjoy it. And thanks again for the purchase.

Starting the second run. Metal is cut and construction is underway.
Orders will ship starting December 15th...maybe sooner.

PM me if your wanting to purchase one, and I will send payment instructions.

Pro-model (no extenders) $190
Premium model with extenders $230

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Awesome and glad your happy with it! Post a pic if possible.

Here are some new "nicer" pics of the final design.
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No the angle brackets do not have holes. But they can very easily be drilled according to need. I can drill some holes if you like. Just tell me where you would like them - how many inches off center. Or if you just want an assortment of two on each end, I can do that too. The metal is cold steel and is very easy to drill. You should have no issues even if you decide to do it yourself.

Curious why your opposed to the c-clamps. They will absolutely clamp the PF into the rotisserie with zero issues, and you wont need to drill holes in your PF.

Agreed. Just use a 1/2" x 1/2" x 4" or so thick wooden block. I just cant see that causing any damage to the clear.

Now that I think about it some more. I did screw the back of a Williams Fire playfield to a drilled bracket, because of that tall wall that is so common on the more modern pins. It was just not practical to disassemble the wall, in order to get the clamps on the PF itself. Or you could use a taller C-calmp as well.

As you might imagine, there are numerous ways to attach the PF to the rotisserie.

Looking good. I also like those "deep" C-clamps you are using.

I have my BK PF sitting on mine at the moment waiting for the hardtop. Gonna tray to spend a few hours on it this weekend.

Now offering the LE model in black powder-coat.
$305.00 shipped to 48 states.

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Those listed above are certainly outstanding. No doubt about that. They appear to be made from 1-1/2" square tubing and are designed strong enough for a manufacturing environment. Obviously that's what the pin manufacturers require for their purposes. But do we REALLY need this for the basement restoration? Probably cost every bit of $600.00 or so too. Big down side other than cost, is they don't appear to be able to break down when not in use. So now you have to store it the beast when its idle.

I am very confident that my offering can satisfy the needs of 95% of the folks out there. And once the playfield is attached, you have the exact same overall functionality as the ones shown above, and a LOT more "coin" left in the pants pockets for better things like hardtops, stadium lights, LEDs etc. Plus it breaks down and stores in its 16" x 14" x 4" box that it came with when not in use.

So my second run is now half sold out. These units will start shipping the week of the 15th just in time for Christmas. Anyone wanting one can send me a PM for payment instructions. And thanks to the MANY folks that have already purchased one.

You guys have my design gears turning yet again. So lets talk about the way they are mounting the PF to those commercial units.

It appears to me that they are using the existing holes in the PF, to attach the front to the rotisserie - by way of a couple of secondary brackets. The other end of the PF is attaching by way of the hardware on the "sliding-rails", and some additional steel tubes and brackets that run the length of the rotisserie. So what they have created here, is a large one piece rotating and open "frame", that the PF attaches to using existing "features" on the PF. Obviously that works well for this style of PF.

But what about all of the EM, early SS and pivoting playfields that came before the sliding rail system which appeared around 1992 IIRC? Now you are back to attaching those playfields on the ends I would think.

But first I want to ask the question. What is the concern with the c-clamps? Is it the fear of leaving a small impression in the PF surface? Well this is very easily negated by using a small wooden block. Is the concern the fear that the c-clamps would not provide the required gripping power, and the PF would fall off? IMO, this should not happen assuming the c-clamps are snug as they should be. I have already had my very heavy Black Knight playfield on the rotisserie using only four c-clamps, and it was very secure. There was never a concern that the thing would loosen up and fall off- even after spinning it a countless number of times. So please help me understand what the apprehension is here.

It is currently likely out of scope to try to design a rotisserie with the large open rotating frame feature- similar to the commercial units. The frame would need to be a one piece design, and not modular in order to provide the required strength. No way I could use the telescoping extenders like I am using for the bottoms on the premium models. That said, I have to keep my rotisserie as modular as possible to make it feasible to ship. Its the size of the box, and the additional weight that would send the shipping cost through the roof, and not necessarily the additional cost of the materials.

So I want to try to first try to find a better way to attach a PF with a tall back wall, to my current rotisserie, and I think that can be done. I am currently designing a custom spanning type clamp that would easily clamp the tall back wall of any PF, to the angle bracket. One clamp would go on each side of the pivot, and there would be no need to remove anything in most cases I believe. I am looking for the components on-line now, and I will provide a sketch ASAP. I really think this would mount a tall back wall PF to the angle bracket very nicely. And the front of the PF would attach with a pair of small c-clamps and blocks - with only the need to first remove the apron.

So again, please help me understand why the apprehension to the c-clamps. And I also need to know how tall the "tallest" back walls are on the more modern pins. I'm guessing around 7-8 inches or so. I have a Funhouse and a Twilight Zone I can measure tonight. That will help me in my clamp design.

Great discussion guys. Lets keep it going.

I can appreciate your concern regarding the clamps. And really appreciate the feedback. I also fully agree that using existing features on the PF to attach it to any rotisserie without the use of clamps, is the best solution. But that will have to come at a very high price. So the more I think about it here, its just not feasible at this time to do with my current design for a host of reasons. But I will still continue to look for improvements going forward.

Right or wrong - I kind of look at it like this. The best way to lift my truck off the ground to replace the brakes, would be to use an electric two-post lift. I just park the truck, place the arms under the frame, push a button, then proceed with the job. Without question this is best. But is this feasible for the average back-yard mechanic? Obviously no.

But I can also use a floor-jack to raise the truck off the ground, and then properly place jack-stands under the truck for adequate support. This is also without question, far more back-yard mechanic friendly and feasible to do. But at the end of the day, your still going to get the brakes replaced regardless of which method you used to raise and support your truck.

One last observation on the clamps from what I have seen, and others have seen that have borrowed my original rotisserie. I have found that when they are positioned and tightened properly. They simply will not loosen up and fall off...not gonna happen. Similar thing with the jack-stands in the above scenario above. If they are properly placed under the truck. There is not going to be a problem.

I also service pins on the side for others, and I will be placing a near perfect TZ PF in my rotisserie today to do a tear-down to clean/wax and replace the rubbers. Its so much easier to do it this way on my bench, rather than in the cabinet IMO. And if I had ANY concern with the security of the PF being attached to the rotisserie by way of using c-clamps. Do you think I would take a risk like that. Hell no!

But again I completely respect your concerns. These old playfields are equivalent to gold as we already know, and one needs "piece of mind" knowing they are going to be secure when being serviced.

BTW I did not get to model up my fancy clamp that I want to use to attach a "tall rear walled" machine to the rotisserie. I ran out of welding gas for the second time on a Saturday morning. Stopped me cold till mid-this week. Time to buy a full size gas cylinder.

Second run is now built, and will start shipping Monday.

So I have now sold over 20 units, and have decided to open a Pinside Shop for future sales. So for those who are interested, please refer to the Pinside Shop or just search on Rotisserie, and you will find my offerings. I will continue to post the status of builds within this thread.

I did not get around to working on my tall wall clamp due to running out of welding gas last weekend. However, I plan on building my first model of it this weekend. I will post pics once its done, and I am happy with the design.

I also plan on building many more units starting next week. Orders are now being taken.

I am using the smaller 1", and the 3" clamps in my product pictures. The 1" is small in size, and more than strong enough to do the job IMO. Dont knock it till you give it a shot and see. It also holds my heavy BK playfield very securely, and they dont get in the way. I would recommend using the smallest clamp possible - assuming it fits where you want it to be.

The c-clamps in "nocreditdot's" pics look to me to be at least 4", maybe 5" inches or so. But I could easily see the 2" being the most ideal ones for his application, while providing the required security as well. BTW, what PF is that?

Tall wall clamp will work with all rotisseries. Again I need some feedback from you guys on how tall some of these rear walls are. Tallest I have seen so far is 7 inches on a TZ. Are there any taller?

Well if you compare the two products visually. You will see that the rotation control on my design is superior. Mine is made of thicker metal overall, and it cant wear out due to stripped threads. The Marco weighs in at 17 pounds, and my Premium model weighs in at 23 pounds. That's the difference in the materials selection and construction of these two units you are looking at.

I have some in stock if your ready to buy. Links to my shop are now on post #1.

Okay here is my first stab at the rear wall clamp. The idea is to have a pair of these clamping the back of the playfield to the rotisserie. It would also clamp a 8" rear wall. It is certainly strong enough to do the job. But the 7/16" threaded rods are flexing just a bit more than I would really like, and is causing a slight tilt on the board (rear wall) in the angle bracket.

I would not hesitate to use this for my own playfield at this time. I think it would do the trick. But I think it needs to be a bit more "polished" for the masses.

Next I will try a pair of 1/2" rods and hopefully they wont flex. Not quite ready for prime-time, but you get the idea.
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Not quite following. Can you provide a simple sketch.

I would not trust a slip clamp like that for the job. Too much risk imo. C-clamps on the other hand will not loosen up.

Yes...Bessey clamps. I remeber thise from my cabinet shops days. I would trust those all day long. They dont slip.

Okay now i think i understand what you mean by using the clamp horizontally.

All rotisseries that I have received payment for, have been shipped. Thanks again guys.

I have two pro models left that can ship monday morning if I receive payment this weekend. If you want it converted to a premium, it will ship out Tuesday. Links to my shop are on post #1.

Nice video. Getaway is one of my favorites.

Thanks for posting pics of the rotisserie in use. That looks like one very nice shop there Nick.

All rotisseries are currently sold out except for two LE models thar are powdercoated in black.

I will be buying new metal for the next run during the week of January 6th, and will begin construction the week of the 12th. Looking to build about 10 -15 or so.

See post 1 for links to my shop to place an order, and have yours reserved. Its looking like I might do one run a month going forward if the interest remains.

First batch of LE models have arrived. Red is already sold out. The powdercoat really looks terrific. The metal was first sandblasted, then finished for the most durable finish possible.

20200102_161334 (resized).jpg

Yes the two red ones are yours. I currently have two black ones available and ready to ship.

Can you post some pics?

Regarding my next run of rotisseries.

Pro models and Premium models are all out of stock. I do have one LE model powdercoated in black ready to ship.

I will be buying metal on Monday the 13th, and will be cutting next week. I will begin construction of the units on the 18th of this month. I am looking to start shipping no later than the 27th, but will possibly be sooner. Please click "Pindoc Restorations" just under my username, to place orders. Looking to build 15-20 or so.

It appears that i did not get any notifications when you posted your questions from within the shops message system. So since nothing appeared on my notification bar at the top right. I was totally unaware you were trying to reach me. Apoligies for that.

I absolutely do now remember what I said. Best poor excuse I can muster is that I simply got side tracked from being gone for the long holidays, and I simply lost track regarding the arrangement.

Going forth i will add an additional note in the comment field, that if the buyer has any question regarding the purchase, that they contact me through a PM so i can be properly notified.

The way the shop works is very helpful in tracking orders. I can clearly see which are open, in process or sent. But I am at a loss as to why I never received any notifications that you were trying to reach out to me.

Your roto will ship no later than next Wednesday.

Again apologies for the delay.
Bill

That has stalled at the moment. But where it stands now I am getting a bit mote flex out of the 3/8" threaded rods than I like. What this means is that the top angle iron has a slight twist and will no grip the top wall exactly as it should. It does IMO grip the wall securely enough that I would personally use them. But you have to keep an eye on it.

So at the moment, its not ready for prime-time. I am also reluctant to go even larger on the threaded rod. I will continue to try to find a better solution when time permits. But as has already been mentioned and shown before, the back wall can easily be removed form many tables. And several guys posted some really innovative ways of securing the PF to the rotisserie.

Thanks for your understanding. It certainly is starting out busy with the rotos. And the pin repair and restoration bussiness is booming too.

I am prepared to take another batch of rotos to the powdercoater in a couple weeks. This means that if someone is interested in an LE roto, they can pick nearly any color of powdercoat they want for the finish. However, there will be a small delay in delivery since the PC process can take up to two weeks.

So if you are interested in a LE model in your choice of color, please PM me for more info.

Thanks

You can clamp my premium roto on the top of a pair of sawhorses very securely. You just have to have extenders in one form or another attached.

The 95% off sale for all rotisseries has now ended.

Yes that's right! They were listed at 95% off due to some kind of bug this morning that was affecting all shop items listed on Pinside. So to the folks who brought this to my attention...thanks. The bug appears to now be fixed, and orders can be placed again.

Is it only on one side or two? Looks like i did not drill the holes in the plate on the bottom of the plates. I will mail you new plates in less than an hour. Thanks for bringing it to my attention.

There is no need to drill the plastic blocks at all. I have the plates drilled and bolts installed and im now leaving for the post office. What happened is I tapped into a brand new bulk pack of the clamps, and forgot to drill the plates out first. I remember initially that I drilled all of clamp plates at one time, and even assemble the bolts and dropped them all in the bucket. When that bucket ran out, I had not yet had time to drill the new ones. But I WILL drill all of the new ones today, so it does not happen again.

Once these arrive, it will bolt together correctly. My apologies yet once again for the inconvenience.

Thanks. I try to do my best. Even better I am taking steps to help ensure it does not happen again.

Murphey,
Parts are at the post office. Should be there on Tuesday.

Build status:
Well I just sawed nearly 400 feet of metal, and this is looking to be a very big run for sure. Whewww! Drilling holes and construction begins tomorrow.

I am still on schedule to ship a roto to every one that has placed an order, and provided payment through the store, the week of January 27th. That means most folks will have it in hand by the end of the month. However, I need to close the door by Monday the 20th, to be able to meet that schedule.

So if you are looking to purchase either a Pro or Premium model, and you want it this month, please place your order no later than Monday. Orders placed after Monday may or may not see it shipped on that schedule. LEs will have a longer lead time due to having the powdercoated.

So as I mentioned before. It looks like I will do one, or occasionally two runs a month going forth. And the next run likely wont ship till mid or late February.

Finally...another big thanks for everyone that has made a purchase. It is very much appreciated, and I really hope you find it useful.

Bill

I have been receiving orders for LE models in custom colored powder-coating. But I need to set a deadline to order one, if a custom color is desired.

So if anyone is wanting a LE model in a custom color, please place your order no later than January 29th. Any LE models wanted after that date, will only be offered in gloss black.

Here are the available powder-coating colors:
www.ralcolor.com
Just provide me the 4 digit RAL code.

Thanks

Anybody have any pics of a WPC playfield on a rotisserie, BUT in the WB factory back in the day? I want to see how they attaching the PF in the factory. I am wondering if they were using the metal slide brackets on the bottom of the PF.

I am currently working on a new way to attach a WPC PF to the rotisserie, by using the slide brackets on the bottom of the PF.

Edit: Disregard the above. I found what I needed.

Its my understanding the powdercoater can do any of those colors. But i will confirm early next week.

Still a lot of work to do. Yes it is expected to work with the current rotos.

Update:
All Pro and Premium models for which I have received payment, are currently boxed and will ship out Monday morning. Thanks again for the purchases. This was a very large run.

I made some extras that can be configured for either a Pro or Premium models. So anyone wanting to purchase one of those should make payment no later than Monday the 27th, and it will ship that week.

I AM CURRENTLY HAVING SOME PAYPAL ISSUES that have made receiving payments this weekend a bit of a pain. If anybody has any issues placing there order, please contact me via PM. Hopefully its now working as it should.

Update:
All Pro and Premium model rotos for which I have received payment, have shipped out this morning via UPS.

LAST CALL for anyone wanting a roto from this latest run, which WILL ship this week. My next run will likely not begin till mid March, and wont ship till late March.

LAST CALL FOR LE MODELS POWDERCOATED IN YOUR CHOICE OF COLOR.

Colors available at the following link:
www.ralcolor.com
Please provide me the RAL 4-digit code.

I will be dropping off a load of rotisseries to the powdercoater in the next few days. Those interested can make the purchase in my Pinside shop.

Thanks

20200102_161334 (resized).jpg

I am currently doing some design work on some L-shaped brackets that will attach to the rotating angles, and will hopefully allow you to attach to the PF side brackets of System 11, WPC, DE and Stern playfields. This means that the rear wall, and any components near the rear wall can be left installed on the PF. In short, your PF will attach the same way on my roto, as it would for the mega-expensive factory rotisseries. Again if all goes well.

My goal is to have a single design that will work with as many different make machines as possible. So far, WPC and Sys11 are looking really good. But I have some questions regarding the brackets on the Stern playfields.

Please take a look at this:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-5329-03

Can someone tell me if this is the COMMON playfield bracket used on most Stern playfields? I also need to know the following:
- Diameter of the post
- Length of the post (looks to be around 1/2" or so)
- Distance from the dead center of the post, to the VERY rear edge of the PF (looks to be around 10" to 12" or so)

Also what similar bracket is being used on Jersey Jack, The same bracket as the stern maybe? That would sure be nice.

Thanks.

NOW TAKING ORDERS for the February run of rotos. Please see post 1 for the links to my Pinside shop.
I will be building shortly, and they will begin shipping the last week of February.

For those waiting on LE models from the January run. I am expecting to have them back from the powder coating this week. Looking to start shipping them out next week.

Regarding the Stern PF side brackets. Are the SPIKE machines using the same brackets as the older SAM ones?

Okay here are some teaser pics of my first brackets for supporting a System 11 playfield by the side pivot brackets. I will next add some additional holes so a WPC playfield can be fitted, and test it soon.
20200212_174152 (resized).jpg20200212_174220 (resized).jpg

20200212_192909 (resized).jpg

You are spot on regarding the fulcrum. I am pretty confident that this early design is more than substantial regarding the welds. Although you cant see them in these pics. There are many more welds holding it together. I have also arranged the parts so there are no delicate butt welds to be stressed. Most joints are wrapped in one way or another.

So I have already found the weak point, and its with the angle pieces. Currently they are 1/8" thick, and they are twisting just a minor bit. Im going to make a new set out of 1/4" and see if they resist flexing.

I will be building an all new set of L brackets because these are a tad too short for WPC. I have also found a better way of building them that will make them even stronger than they are right now, and make installation easier.

I also wanted to see if there was any flex in the other parts, and there does not appear to be. Even the poly brackets are staying nice and true.

Oh and yes I agree a full frame is ideal. But its a non-starter because of what it likely cost to ship because of its longer parts. Hopefully these will ship in the same box as the rotos.

Stay tuned. Hopefully it will work out. It's looking good so far.

Latest batch of powdercoated LE models have arrived. Sure was a colorful batch this time. They really look good.

I currently have one red LE roto available for sale, and ready to ship the next day. Please see post 1 if your interested.
20200218_153002 (resized).jpg

All LE models for which I have received payment, shipped out this morning.
Thanks again for the purchases.

LAST CALL FOR FEBRUARY ROTISSERIES.
If you are looking to get one, and you want it by the end of the month, please place your order by the end of this weekend. See post #1 for links to my shop.

So the SYS11, WPC arms will have to be attached to a new angle bracket, because the existing 1" x 1/8" thick bracket is twisting too much under the heavier load. The new angle bracket will be 1.5" x 1/4" thick, and will install the exact same way as the smaller one. With the thicker bracket, there is a total of 1 degree of twist relative to the a-frame, which is plenty acceptable. I think this also shows that the a-frame is up to the task for this mod. I will be testing a very heavy Getaway PF hopefully in the next week or so.

It appears the new arms should be used with the square extenders, and not the electrical conduit. There is a lot more stress on the extenders when loading and unloading the PF from the arms. The stress is greatly minimized when the PF is installed and secure.

So the side bracket mod will include a new larger angle bracket, the left arm, the right arm and the hardware. Everything will be drilled, and ready to install out right of the box. No idea on price yet. But it wont be cheap.

Sadly, I wont be bringing any machines this year. But I may come up just to play for the day.

All rotisseries that I have received payment for, have shipped out via UPS. Thanks again for all of the rotos purchased in February.

Now accepting orders for the next run in March. See post 1 for liks to my shop.

I am ready to test fit them to a WPC. Will try to do it maybe this weekend, or early next week. That machine is not at my home unfortunately.

Yes as long as its not wider than 30". No Hercules.

Currently all Pro and Premium models are sold out. I will start building the next batch mid-March, and they will ship late March.
I do have one red powdercoated LE than can go out the next day though.

Yep all of the LE models sold out again. I already have several orders placed for the March run, and the build will be around the the 3rd week there of.

Anyone who wants an LE model can place an order, and submit their requests for a custom color. Again refer to www.ralcolor.com and provide me the color code. As usual, it will take a bit more time to get these delivered due to the finishing process.

Regarding the sys11/wpc side mounting system. Expect some exciting news on it very soon. Stay tuned.

Yep.

Update on the Pindoc "Sidekick". Yep that's what I am calling the SYS11/WPC side mount system. In about 2-3 weeks, I am going to make a fixture to build the first final design parts.

Still dont know the final price at this time. But there is a "precision-ness" with making the sidekick, that is not really required for the roto itself. So that will influence the price a little bit. But I am suspecting it will cost around the same, or not much less than the roto. Will just have to wait and see.

Again it will work with all SYS11 and WPC standard/widebody playfields using this bracket
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-8726-L-1

and WPC standard/widebody playfields that use this bracket:
https://www.pinballlife.com/playfield-slide-assembly-left.html

So for anyone who is seriously looking to purchase a Pindoc sidekick. Please send me a PM with "sidekick" in the subject line, so I can gauge the interest here. Again it will work with every Pindoc rotisserie out there that has been sold.

Here are some detailed pics of the prototype model. The new angle bracket is larger and thicker.
20200304_135506 (resized).jpg20200304_135515 (resized).jpg

In that ballpark...yes.

I just revised that post above to provide more clarity. Yes it will work with the WPC sliding type mounts too. Here is a Getaway PF with the sliding type mounts, and working as intended. Notice the pics showing the assembled unit above. There are multiple holes to allow it to adjust from standard PF width, to widebody PF width.
Untitled (resized).png

Yes. You will need to remove the apron and the two hangers. The c-clamps will then hold the front of the PF like a vice.

I will be on vacation, and out of the country for about a week or so. That means I wont be able to answer any emails or concerns. Should be returning around the 16th. When I do return, I will start tooling up for the sidekicks. Looks like there is a good bit of interest for them, so I am taking the next step.

My prototype appears to be doing very well. It has been loaded up practically since the time I built it, and Getaway is a freaking heavy table too.

I will be selling the two early prototype rotisseries that I still have. The original one with lock bolts will go for $90, and the one with the poly clamps will go for $120. Both work very well. Would prefer a local pickup from Central KY. But will also ship, but buyer pays shipping.

20200304_135709 (resized).jpg

20200304_135612 (resized).jpg

Update:

I just bought a ton of steel today for the March run of rotos, and I managed to beat the coming price increase on steel due to C19. This means that all my rotos WILL have to have a price increase, likely starting next month. It also appears that the price increase will be around 20% to 25% or so until things get back to normal.

So anyone looking to get a roto at the current price points. Please get you order in ASAP, and I will very likely get them shipped by end of March or early April...excluding LE models. All rotos for which I have already received payment, will ship by end of the month.

I am also starting to tool up for the sidekicks, and I hope to have some built by the end of the month. I will also try to have a price for them as well.

Please contact me with any questions or concerns.

Thanks

Two more days to place any orders for LE models in your choice of color. They should ship early to mid April.

So if you want a LE model powder-coated in any of the colors here:
www.ralcolor.com
Please place your order no later than Monday morning.

Please contact me with any questions or concerns.
Thanks.

The materials are bought and cut for eight sidekicks. They will start going together early next week, after I build about ten more rotos. Im still trying to streamline the build process a bit, but I am very close.

Everyone who is interested in a sidekick. Please send me a PM with the subject "sidekick". I can go ahead and start compiling the list of potential buyers. Again, I can provide eight of them in the first run. More are likely to follow, but I am looking for feedback from the first ones sold before starting a second run.

Yes I can offer powdercoating on the side kicks. But i need to get the quote from the powdercoating shop on monday or tuesday.

I will plan on posting sidekick pricing no later than wednesday night.