Pinball Playfield ROTISSERIES starting at $195.00 shipped

Those listed above are certainly outstanding. No doubt about that. They appear to be made from 1-1/2" square tubing and are designed strong enough for a manufacturing environment. Obviously that's what the pin manufacturers require for their purposes. But do we REALLY need this for the basement restoration? Probably cost every bit of $600.00 or so too. Big down side other than cost, is they don't appear to be able to break down when not in use. So now you have to store it the beast when its idle.

I am very confident that my offering can satisfy the needs of 95% of the folks out there. And once the playfield is attached, you have the exact same overall functionality as the ones shown above, and a LOT more "coin" left in the pants pockets for better things like hardtops, stadium lights, LEDs etc. Plus it breaks down and stores in its 16" x 14" x 4" box that it came with when not in use.

So my second run is now half sold out. These units will start shipping the week of the 15th just in time for Christmas. Anyone wanting one can send me a PM for payment instructions. And thanks to the MANY folks that have already purchased one.

You guys have my design gears turning yet again. So lets talk about the way they are mounting the PF to those commercial units.

It appears to me that they are using the existing holes in the PF, to attach the front to the rotisserie - by way of a couple of secondary brackets. The other end of the PF is attaching by way of the hardware on the "sliding-rails", and some additional steel tubes and brackets that run the length of the rotisserie. So what they have created here, is a large one piece rotating and open "frame", that the PF attaches to using existing "features" on the PF. Obviously that works well for this style of PF.

But what about all of the EM, early SS and pivoting playfields that came before the sliding rail system which appeared around 1992 IIRC? Now you are back to attaching those playfields on the ends I would think.

But first I want to ask the question. What is the concern with the c-clamps? Is it the fear of leaving a small impression in the PF surface? Well this is very easily negated by using a small wooden block. Is the concern the fear that the c-clamps would not provide the required gripping power, and the PF would fall off? IMO, this should not happen assuming the c-clamps are snug as they should be. I have already had my very heavy Black Knight playfield on the rotisserie using only four c-clamps, and it was very secure. There was never a concern that the thing would loosen up and fall off- even after spinning it a countless number of times. So please help me understand what the apprehension is here.

It is currently likely out of scope to try to design a rotisserie with the large open rotating frame feature- similar to the commercial units. The frame would need to be a one piece design, and not modular in order to provide the required strength. No way I could use the telescoping extenders like I am using for the bottoms on the premium models. That said, I have to keep my rotisserie as modular as possible to make it feasible to ship. Its the size of the box, and the additional weight that would send the shipping cost through the roof, and not necessarily the additional cost of the materials.

So I want to try to first try to find a better way to attach a PF with a tall back wall, to my current rotisserie, and I think that can be done. I am currently designing a custom spanning type clamp that would easily clamp the tall back wall of any PF, to the angle bracket. One clamp would go on each side of the pivot, and there would be no need to remove anything in most cases I believe. I am looking for the components on-line now, and I will provide a sketch ASAP. I really think this would mount a tall back wall PF to the angle bracket very nicely. And the front of the PF would attach with a pair of small c-clamps and blocks - with only the need to first remove the apron.

So again, please help me understand why the apprehension to the c-clamps. And I also need to know how tall the "tallest" back walls are on the more modern pins. I'm guessing around 7-8 inches or so. I have a Funhouse and a Twilight Zone I can measure tonight. That will help me in my clamp design.

Great discussion guys. Lets keep it going.

I can appreciate your concern regarding the clamps. And really appreciate the feedback. I also fully agree that using existing features on the PF to attach it to any rotisserie without the use of clamps, is the best solution. But that will have to come at a very high price. So the more I think about it here, its just not feasible at this time to do with my current design for a host of reasons. But I will still continue to look for improvements going forward.

Right or wrong - I kind of look at it like this. The best way to lift my truck off the ground to replace the brakes, would be to use an electric two-post lift. I just park the truck, place the arms under the frame, push a button, then proceed with the job. Without question this is best. But is this feasible for the average back-yard mechanic? Obviously no.

But I can also use a floor-jack to raise the truck off the ground, and then properly place jack-stands under the truck for adequate support. This is also without question, far more back-yard mechanic friendly and feasible to do. But at the end of the day, your still going to get the brakes replaced regardless of which method you used to raise and support your truck.

One last observation on the clamps from what I have seen, and others have seen that have borrowed my original rotisserie. I have found that when they are positioned and tightened properly. They simply will not loosen up and fall off...not gonna happen. Similar thing with the jack-stands in the above scenario above. If they are properly placed under the truck. There is not going to be a problem.

I also service pins on the side for others, and I will be placing a near perfect TZ PF in my rotisserie today to do a tear-down to clean/wax and replace the rubbers. Its so much easier to do it this way on my bench, rather than in the cabinet IMO. And if I had ANY concern with the security of the PF being attached to the rotisserie by way of using c-clamps. Do you think I would take a risk like that. Hell no!

But again I completely respect your concerns. These old playfields are equivalent to gold as we already know, and one needs "piece of mind" knowing they are going to be secure when being serviced.

BTW I did not get to model up my fancy clamp that I want to use to attach a "tall rear walled" machine to the rotisserie. I ran out of welding gas for the second time on a Saturday morning. Stopped me cold till mid-this week. Time to buy a full size gas cylinder.

Second run is now built, and will start shipping Monday.

So I have now sold over 20 units, and have decided to open a Pinside Shop for future sales. So for those who are interested, please refer to the Pinside Shop or just search on Rotisserie, and you will find my offerings. I will continue to post the status of builds within this thread.

I did not get around to working on my tall wall clamp due to running out of welding gas last weekend. However, I plan on building my first model of it this weekend. I will post pics once its done, and I am happy with the design.

I also plan on building many more units starting next week. Orders are now being taken.

I am using the smaller 1", and the 3" clamps in my product pictures. The 1" is small in size, and more than strong enough to do the job IMO. Dont knock it till you give it a shot and see. It also holds my heavy BK playfield very securely, and they dont get in the way. I would recommend using the smallest clamp possible - assuming it fits where you want it to be.

The c-clamps in "nocreditdot's" pics look to me to be at least 4", maybe 5" inches or so. But I could easily see the 2" being the most ideal ones for his application, while providing the required security as well. BTW, what PF is that?

Tall wall clamp will work with all rotisseries. Again I need some feedback from you guys on how tall some of these rear walls are. Tallest I have seen so far is 7 inches on a TZ. Are there any taller?

Well if you compare the two products visually. You will see that the rotation control on my design is superior. Mine is made of thicker metal overall, and it cant wear out due to stripped threads. The Marco weighs in at 17 pounds, and my Premium model weighs in at 23 pounds. That's the difference in the materials selection and construction of these two units you are looking at.

I have some in stock if your ready to buy. Links to my shop are now on post #1.

Okay here is my first stab at the rear wall clamp. The idea is to have a pair of these clamping the back of the playfield to the rotisserie. It would also clamp a 8" rear wall. It is certainly strong enough to do the job. But the 7/16" threaded rods are flexing just a bit more than I would really like, and is causing a slight tilt on the board (rear wall) in the angle bracket.

I would not hesitate to use this for my own playfield at this time. I think it would do the trick. But I think it needs to be a bit more "polished" for the masses.

Next I will try a pair of 1/2" rods and hopefully they wont flex. Not quite ready for prime-time, but you get the idea.
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Not quite following. Can you provide a simple sketch.

I would not trust a slip clamp like that for the job. Too much risk imo. C-clamps on the other hand will not loosen up.

Yes...Bessey clamps. I remeber thise from my cabinet shops days. I would trust those all day long. They dont slip.

Okay now i think i understand what you mean by using the clamp horizontally.

All rotisseries that I have received payment for, have been shipped. Thanks again guys.

I have two pro models left that can ship monday morning if I receive payment this weekend. If you want it converted to a premium, it will ship out Tuesday. Links to my shop are on post #1.

Nice video. Getaway is one of my favorites.

Thanks for posting pics of the rotisserie in use. That looks like one very nice shop there Nick.

All rotisseries are currently sold out except for two LE models thar are powdercoated in black.

I will be buying new metal for the next run during the week of January 6th, and will begin construction the week of the 12th. Looking to build about 10 -15 or so.

See post 1 for links to my shop to place an order, and have yours reserved. Its looking like I might do one run a month going forward if the interest remains.

First batch of LE models have arrived. Red is already sold out. The powdercoat really looks terrific. The metal was first sandblasted, then finished for the most durable finish possible.

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Yes the two red ones are yours. I currently have two black ones available and ready to ship.