I'd definitely be in for one.
(Topic ID: 253922)
Grass Lake Charter Township, MI
I would be concerned how sturdy it is without the cross braces on the bottom. You stated its very sturdy and doesn't need them. How much movement is there when a playfield is mounted? I too purchased the one from marco and it is way overpriced for the quality, even assembled it has some movement. A video of it using it without braces would be nice to see.
Quoted from jjoravec:I would be concerned how sturdy it is without the cross braces on the bottom. You stated its very sturdy and doesn't need them. How much movement is there when a playfield is mounted? I too purchased the one from marco and it is way overpriced for the quality, even assembled it has some movement. A video of it using it without braces would be nice to see.
He also indicated its already set up so that you could go to your local big box hardware store and get the cross braces yourself.
I would personally be more interested in a free standing unit with a tubular frame construction such as this, adjustable height if possible. I find tables to be too low to work from even with this slightly added height.
Also I find that I’m constantly rotating between top/bottom during swaps. Because of this the life of my thumbscrew or bolt locks are about 2 playfields. I saw at the stern factory they use a large cog on the end with a locking mechanism.. like in this video.
I threw these together in about 2 hours with some scrap wood and about $10.00 in angle iron and nuts/bolts/washers from Home Depot. I use a couple small 2" clamps to secure the pf to the angle iron (49 cents each, Harbor Freight). They weigh about 2 lbs and I can store them anywhere.
Next time I do a swap I'll screw a couple removable cross member pieces from one end to the other for added stability, but this worked just fine for my first time. If I did a lot of these I could see the benefit of one like yours - that's heavy duty - nice work.
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Quoted from jjoravec:I would be concerned how sturdy it is without the cross braces on the bottom. You stated its very sturdy and doesn't need them. How much movement is there when a playfield is mounted? I too purchased the one from marco and it is way overpriced for the quality, even assembled it has some movement. A video of it using it without braces would be nice to see.
Once the PF is placed in the rotisserie, the overall assembly is sturdy enough for normal use - with or without the extenders.
Only minor issue is if you do a lot of rotating of the PF in the configuration without the extenders. The rotating brackets "may" start to walk just a bit out of the frames. So to eliminate this, I am going to drill a hole in the ends of the tubing and install a hair-pin clip. This will prevent the walk-out issue completely.
So in my opinion, the big benefit of the extenders is to make it just a bit easier to attach the PF to the brackets. Other than that, they really don't have any other significant benefits except to prevent the walk-out issue. Once the rotisserie is loaded with the PF, the PF can be rotated just as easily and confidently whether you use the extenders, or not. All of the structural rigidity comes from the joining the frames halves, the brackets and the PF all together.
And as mentioned, the 3/4" square tubing extenders can be added if you want, at any later date. I will be welding the nuts on the feet so it will be ready to go. I guess you could also use round tubing or pipe you if like with equally good results. Again, the extenders simply tie the frame halves together, but dont really provide any added rigidity.
Please help me understand the "movement" you are referring to. The setup I have now feels very solid sitting on a level table and has the feel of a quality tool IMO. Also I will get a detailed video ASAP per your request.
Quoted from knockerlover:I would personally be more interested in a free standing unit with a tubular frame construction such as this, adjustable height if possible. I find tables to be too low to work from even with this slightly added height.
Also I find that I’m constantly rotating between top/bottom during swaps. Because of this the life of my thumbscrew or bolt locks are about 2 playfields. I saw at the stern factory they use a large cog on the end with a locking mechanism.. like in this video.
So what I am offering is a free standing tubular unit that would simply sit on any flat surface, similar to what you see in the vid. I definitely wont be adding any height adjustment to the design because this would certainly cause a cost increase. Also the higher the PF goes relative to the foot of the rotisserie, the more top-heavy it will become and now you will have stability issues. Dont want that dude falling down.
Currently I have the rotisserie sitting on this table, and it is perfect for all my work:
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Work-Table-49/dp/B01IGIIPR2/ref=sr_1_15
I think I paid a hundred for it from Sam's Club many years ago. But there are plenty of similar tables for less than $100 available. There are countless ways to create a work surface for my rotisserie. A pair of sawhorses and some 2x4's come to mind if you want to do it on the cheap.
"Because of this the life of my thumbscrew or bolt locks are about 2 playfields"
Hence the reason I am using a 1/2" bolt. 
As far as a clamping mech - not likely again due to the added cost. But I will give it some thought as maybe an option down the road.
Quoted from Gryszzz:I'm a one man crew lol.
Looking through this thread, looks like about 3-4 of us are Midwesterners. If you or I post in the PinCinnati thread, you'd prob get a better gauge. I'm guessing you could sell 10 easily.
I'd be interested to know how much I could save on shipping if I picked one up at Pincinnati, also.
Quoted from knockerlover:I would personally be more interested in a free standing unit with a tubular frame construction such as this, adjustable height if possible. I find tables to be too low to work from even with this slightly added height.
Also I find that I’m constantly rotating between top/bottom during swaps. Because of this the life of my thumbscrew or bolt locks are about 2 playfields. I saw at the stern factory they use a large cog on the end with a locking mechanism.. like in this video.
I think the most interesting thing in that video is that you note they hold the PF from the sides (to avoid the backboard). Not applicable to a cheaper design like this.. but the boxframe has a good purpose!
I use about the same thing from jabtech. It comes with the center supports, painted and comes with clamps and a few other mount helping things. I have been happy with it.
https://www.jabetc.com/products/pinball-machine-playfield-work-stand-turner-table-rotisserie-spinning-holder-jig
I am interested. People might be willing to pay extra for a power coating option? Could probably get a decent deal on a large batch.
Looks like I have the metal sourced, and maybe the cardboard cartons. Will likely have to do a "field test" for them though. Last big unknown is the shipping costs.
Okay for the guys that are "really "interested, please send me a PM stating your interests, with your shipping addresses so I can can continue my research into shipping. I just want to run the rates nation wide to see what they are gonna run.
Definitely a step closer here.
Thanks.
Quoted from wrd1972_PinDoc:Deleted post
That fidgeting you do with the wrench is exactly what I was concerned about. Maybe weld a piece of that tube steel to the top of the bolt for a big handle?
Quoted from knockerlover:That fidgeting you do with the wrench is exactly what I was concerned about. Maybe weld a piece of that tube steel to the top of the bolt for a big handle?
No way, leave it so you need a wrench. You can always use a socket instead of a box wrench.
Or maybe grind flat spots on the pipe at key angles so a flat bottom screw can get some set-screw action.... or go for the drill and pin method.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:No way, leave it so you need a wrench. You can always use a socket instead of a box wrench.
I guess I'm the only one that's constantly flipping playfields over when doing a swap.. I want to be able to use my hand and not have to grab a tool to awkwardly use, especially if I'm holding a soldering iron or some other part (playfield post and nut, etc.)
Definitely like the table standing unit over the floor unit built with plumbing pipes... with the floor standing unit, I always hit the thumbscrews on the bottom pipes with my shoes and tripped over them constantly... also the unit is not very rigid... I had one accident dropping a play field to the ground and won't be using it again.
I purchased a moveable floor standing unit at the last Allentown show... but pricepoint is 100$ more than your tabletop version. Us older guys need to be able to sit vs stand to save our backs... that's why I moved from a table top to floor standing model.
Quoted from Dono:Definitely like the table standing unit over the floor unit built with plumbing pipes... with the floor standing unit, I always hit the thumbscrews on the bottom pipes with my shoes and tripped over them constantly... also the unit is not very rigid... I had one accident dropping a play field to the ground and won't be using it again.
I purchased a moveable floor standing unit at the last Allentown show... but pricepoint is 100$ more than your tabletop version. Us older guys need to be able to sit vs stand to save our backs... that's why I moved from a table top to floor standing model.
My playfield workspace is a pool table with a ping pong table cover covered with towels to protect the surface. Table top rotisserie would be great for me.
Quoted from knockerlover:I guess I'm the only one that's constantly flipping playfields over when doing a swap.. I want to be able to use my hand and not have to grab a tool to awkwardly use, especially if I'm holding a soldering iron or some other part (playfield post and nut, etc.)
i leave the wrench hanging from mine since it tightens from the side, not the top. That way I don't lose it, too.....
20171204_133835 (resized).jpg20171204_134006 (resized).jpgQuoted from knockerlover:I guess I'm the only one that's constantly flipping playfields over when doing a swap.. I want to be able to use my hand and not have to grab a tool to awkwardly use, especially if I'm holding a soldering iron or some other part (playfield post and nut, etc.)
You're not the only one. I'd replace that bolt in a heartbeat. I do love the larger size bolt though.
Thanks for the interest guys. Based on your feedback, I am now doing a redesign of the rotisserie. It will still be a table top design with the following enhancements:
- Dual 3/8" hand knobs
- Zero-slop locking mechs
- Adjustable clamping force (not possible with a bolt locking mech)
- Rotating bracket axles wont "scar" from the locking mech
I need to model this up and do some testing to ensure that the clamping force is adequate first. I also need to see if i can still meet the $180 price point. I really think we are still in the same "ballpark" though.
So if all goes well, expect an even better design with more functionality.
Stay tuned!
Quoted from wrd1972_PinDoc:Thanks for the interest guys. Based on your feedback, I am now doing a redesign of the rotisserie. It will still be a table top design with the following enhancements:
- Dual 3/8" hand knobs
- Adjustable clamping force (not possible with a bolt locking mech)
- Rotating bracket axles wont "scar" from the locking mech
I need to model this up and do some testing to ensure that the clamping force is adequate first. I also need to see if i can still meet the $180 price point. I really think we are still in the same "ballpark" though.
So if all goes well, expect an even better design with more functionality.
Stay tuned!
I would look to see what is the largest knurled head bolt you can find. May be an allen head, which is good too. I would not overthink this. If someone can use wood and angle to make a stand, yours is in the ballpark of being just fine. It can be modified if they want it to be. Or you can let them "add their own" locking features but provide the base frame unit.
Quoted from wrd1972_PinDoc:Thanks for the interest guys. Based on your feedback, I am now doing a redesign of the rotisserie. It will still be a table top design with the following enhancements:
- Dual 3/8" hand knobs
- Zero-slop locking mechs
- Adjustable clamping force (not possible with a bolt locking mech)
- Rotating bracket axles wont "scar" from the locking mech
I need to model this up and do some testing to ensure that the clamping force is adequate first. I also need to see if i can still meet the $180 price point. I really think we are still in the same "ballpark" though.
So if all goes well, expect an even better design with more functionality.
Stay tuned!
Im in for one..
I'm in and would be buying the extenders. 
Maybe even somehow mount the extenders to my Harbor Freight lift cart so I can adjust the height depending on what I am working on. (I'm getting to be an old guy too.)
I have no idea who made my rotisserie but this is what I've got for a handle. Hand made, obviously, but I wouldn't be without it. I am constantly adjusting the playfield angle.
In the first pic you'll see a "plug." No idea what it's made of but it's like a hard plastic. This plug is what puts pressure on the cylinder instead of the bolt. This way, the cylinder doesn't get indents from the bolt. Those indents will mess thing up at some point.
The other nice thing about the plug is, if I have the playfield at a 45 degree angle and I want to move it slightly, I just move it without adjusting the handle. There's enough friction from the plug to hold it and the plug keeps from scratching and marring the cylinder.
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Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:I have no idea who made my rotisserie but this is what I've got for a handle. Hand made, obviously, but I wouldn't be without it. I am constantly adjusting the playfield angle.
In the first pic you'll see a "plug." No idea what it's made of but it's like a hard plastic. This plug is what puts pressure on the cylinder instead of the bolt. This way, the cylinder doesn't get indents from the bolt. Those indents will mess thing up at some point.
The other nice thing about the plug is, if I have the playfield at a 45 degree angle and I want to move it slightly, I just move it without adjusting the handle. There's enough friction from the plug to hold it and the plug keeps from scratching and marring the cylinder.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Could be Delrin, which is very hard material. Similar to material I sent you for Doctor Who bushing.
Looks like a cast metal fitting used in industrial setting on machinery and equipment. We use similar products because they take a a vibrational beating.
1 week later
Okay here is my new design. I am now adding 1.5" poly-clamps that can be tightened as needed to provide the desired rotating resistance. Also when fully tightened, it is locked very solid. Should be able to stand on it!...but don't do it! 
And looky...looky, are those dual 2" hand-knobs to replace the previous lock bolts? So no more wrench needed, and no more scarred axles either. The whole thing rotates very nicely, and very smooth as well. So as you can see, its getting better and better.
So with the new design and additional features. I will need to raise the price by only ten dollars. So the new price will be $190 shipped. But as you can see, there is a lot of improvement for that additional cost.
I have also found that you can purchase 1/2" electrical conduit in 60" lengths from Lowes, and use those for the extenders for less than $4.00. You can see them in the pics. I am also looking into offering 3/4" square tubing extenders as an option. But there is more work to be done there.
So this is just a quick teaser pic to get you guys excited. I still need to add the locking bolts for the extenders, and a few other things too. But I expect to have a final design in less than a week.
So I am going to proceed with a pilot run of 10 units to work the bugs out. I already have all of my materials sourced, and I will be ready to start building next weekend. So for now, the delivery of an un-painted rotisserie to your door, will be about 2-3 weeks, and will cost $190. So for those who are absolutely want one, please send me a PM so yours can be reserved. I will provide payment information too.
20191101_210823 (resized).jpg20191101_210833 (resized).jpg20191101_210844 (resized).jpgThanks rufessor. I really do appreciate your feedback.
I am very pleased with the way it "feels" with these new poly-clamps. Feels more polished.
Quoted from Gryszzz:Not sure how many you can build in a month, but those of us going to PinCinnati could save you some shipping expenses. Just a thought.
If he had a booth at a decent sized pin show with a bunch for sale, I bet they would sell rather briskly. Price seems very reasonable.
Thinking about this more for myself, I sorta want floor standing because I dont have that much bench space but I also hate the idea of something that big and tall. Do you know or can you imagine how well your stand would work if it sat on saw horses? Like “heavy duty” folding metal ones common to home depot type stores.
I think it can pretty easily be adapted to sawhorses for your type of configuration. But it would be essential that you use some extensions in one form or another for the added security. And personally, I would use some nice sawhorses, and no the flimsy plastic, folding type. If you use these brackets, you would have very solid horses, and you can set them at the desired height as well:
https://www.amazon.com/Fulton-Medium-Duty-Sawhorse-Brackets/dp/B0002YXEIE/ref=sr_1_3
Plan on placing a pair of 60" wooden 2x4"'s to span the two sawhorses. Then place the rotisserie with the square extenders attached, on top of the 2x4's, and clamp the four feet of the rotisserie directly to the 2x4's. This would make the rotisserie and the 2x4's one very solid assembly that would simply span the sawhorses. I tested this in my shop, and it felt very as solid and secure as having the rotisserie on a bench top.
For added security, you can clamp or even the 2x4's to the sawhorses, to make one completely solid work fixture. You will be ready to go then.
It looks like I have come up with a way to offer the 3/4" square extensions as an OPTION. However, they would have to consist of three individual telescoping 20" pieces, and would lock together with lock bolts. Of course they would be adjustable to adapt to different length playfields. Providing them in full lengths, is just NOT cost feasible.
Cost for the extensions option would be $40.00 extra...making the total cost of the rotisserie $230.00 shipped to 48 states. But as mentioned, you can also use 1/2" electrical round conduit form any big-box store as well for less. Its not quite as rigid as the square tubing. But it will work none the less. Of course you can always source your own 3/4" tubing as well.
So again my pilot run of these rotisseries will be ten units, and six are already sold. Im using this pilot run is to work out any bugs, and to determine the feasibility of going mass production. So for those who want to firmly get their hands on the last four units from this run, might want to send me an PM ASAP and get it reserved.
$190 for the rotisserie
$230 for the rotisserie with extensions.
Quoted from rufessor:Thinking about this more for myself, I sorta want floor standing because I dont have that much bench space but I also hate the idea of something that big and tall. Do you know or can you imagine how well your stand would work if it sat on saw horses? Like “heavy duty” folding metal ones common to home depot type stores.
An easier path might be to mod a miter saw stand to accommodate wrd1972's rotisserie (or wrt offers a modified rotisserie with just a heavy duty vertical post instead of the triangle piece on the end).
Here's a rather heavy duty one at Home Depot on the cheap. I bought one, but had to order. Plus you can always use as miter saw stand, if needed.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/WEN-750-lb-Capacity-Miter-Saw-Stand-MSA750/301952684
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Okay for you guys asking about the powdercoat. I can do it but it will cost an additional $75.00 for satin black. I am assuming only a very small amount of folks will want one in powdercoat. So based on this, I would not be getting a volume deal on the service at least in the near term.
Again I just threw a gloss black rattle-can finish on mine for less that five dollars, and it turned out very nicely. I assume most guys will do this.
Quoted from Leeb18509:Interested.
I have three more available for sale from this first run.
Again anyone who wants one of these remaining three, please send me a PM ASAP.
$190 for the rotisserie
$230 for the rotisserie with extensions.
Thanks
Dang, Your first post stated you were looking to making something less than then $250 ones that everyone else was selling now the price has almost reached the same point and potentially more. What happened to the "far less" option. Not to be a downer, as I was following this for a cheaper alternative.
Quoted from jjoravec:Dang, Your first post stated you were looking to making something less than then $250 ones that everyone else was selling now the price has almost reached the same point and potentially more. What happened to the "far less" option. Not to be a downer, as I was following this for a cheaper alternative.
I don't see how anyone would make and ship a low production quantity rotisserie like this for less than $190. Seems like a fair deal to me, looking forward to getting started with my playfield swap!
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