(Topic ID: 606)

Gas Plasma displays acting like an old TV...

By super8man

14 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 years ago by super8man
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#1 14 years ago

On my Williams Gorgar, the player 1 and the ball/credits display are sometimes finicky. Sometimes they look perfect...other times they flicker and the ball display gets really bright with an odd looking zero displayed...then it goes back to normal, perhaps with the ball digit not showing...then, tap the backbox and the display corrects itself. Reminds me of my old console TV - bang the top and the picture straightens out.

I know I can plunk down $200 and get new green LEDs as a replacement (really thinking about that option) and nice to know it would run off of low voltage. But, any thoughts on why the gas plasma does the strange dance?

#2 14 years ago

I would first check for cracked solder on the connector pins of the displays. Especially the end ones. This causes flicker. If slightly moving the display or connector can cause this to go away then this is your problem. Look for a very fine "ring" around the bottom of the pin in the solder.
As for the brightness and zero thing. Maybe the high voltage portion of the solenoid driver board is going or needs to be adjusted. How many volts are you getting at TP2/GND?

Tom Callahan from www.pin-logic.com states that LED displays may get rid of the high voltage but put a huge strain on the 5 volt portion of the transformer and circuit and recommends against them.

#3 14 years ago

From your symptoms SealClubber is probably correct about a solder joint. I had a couple acting funny though in my Medusa when I first got it and it turned out actually being the driver IC. It was very old obsolete ECL (Emitter-Collector-Logic) IC but I finally managed to locate a few and that fixed the dead display and the one acting crazy.

It's getting to the point on here anymore with all the knowledgeable folks that I'm soon to be relegated to just rare moderating and TRYING to be funny

#4 14 years ago

Well, I replaced the bridge rectifiers with the new ones and discovered the + on the GI side was barely hanging on...resoldered the connector and moved each wire over one at a time. Used silicone grease (or whatever that white stuff is) and smeared it on the back to disapate the heat onto the aluminum base shield. All works fine...so I moved on to the flickering zero/ball digit and thought I discovered a very loose connector wire at the very bottom of it. Resoldered the connector wire, checked all the connectors in the white plastic thingy, gently bent all the connectors up and ran the game...seemed like I fixed it...until ball 2. (Funny thing is, my wife thinks I am playing when I am really troubleshooting...but I digress).

So, I suppose I finally have to take the ball/credit display board off of the backboard and investigate the underside.

It's the strangest thing...wiggle the bottom wires, the zero digit for the ball goes really bright, the other displays act up, then either it looks fine or goes blank (all the while the 1-4 displays look fine when its not hot flashing).

The fun continues...sounds like sealclubber's advice is the cuplrit (I hope). It's easier than dealing with anything on the inside of the machine...

Cheers,
Mike

#5 14 years ago

Just a follow up...narrowed the problem down to the white connectors on the MPU board. If I touched the wires in either of the banks, I could get the first digit of the ball display dancing...if I touched other wires on the connector to the right, I could get the first digit of the credit display dancing...popped them off a few times, tried to move the connectors in the white plastic around a bit and then restarted. Semi success...the balls display now but the credits first digit is a bit fussy at times but better than it was. So, I shall leave it at that. It does not appear that anything is broken as far as solder joints...just my opinion and hopeful thinking!

I did remove the master display board and inspect the back, all looked fine. Even recut the lowest wire on the 7th white connector and resoldered that to ensure a good connection. That's when I traced the brown+stripe wire to the top of the MPU board. These machines seem like old English sports cars...nice to look at but dreadful electronics...luckily, the pinball machine is still better than an old British sports car.

#6 14 years ago

If wiggling the connector on the MPU board fixes the problem, the solder under the pins of that connector are probably cracked. I would check that first. The cracks are VERY fine and hard to see. I would reflow the solder anyway just in case as it's easy and cheap.

#7 14 years ago

I would but removing the boards is not in my future if I can avoid it. I also do not want to remove that crazy connector between the boards...

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