(Topic ID: 310250)

Gameroom build - framing issues

By phillyfan64

2 years ago


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    #1 2 years ago

    See this is where I’m at now. Room is only 22’ x 22’ so it’s not big by any stretch.

    Corrections will be made. Builder was highly recommended. I have all the necessary permits and framing and rough in electrical inspections have been done. Somehow the framing passed. Walls were built in place and toe nailed. It’s not how I would have done it. By the way the electrician did a fantastic job and I would recommend him to anyone.

    A few studs cut short by his workers who can’t read a tape measure. This has been corrected. The 2 biggest issues I have are the lack of double studs around door openings, wall edges and outside corners. This will be corrected but why wasn’t it done in the first place? Isn’t that framing 101? How did that pass? That and this soffit box contraption. Supposedly a technique called scabbing will be done here. While it may turn out fine, it’s the wrong way to do it. I’ve asked for it to be completely replaced and be built on the floor. I’ve watched some of the videos mentioned in the other thread. This contraption is overly complicated and flimsy. I think it can be fixed without tearing it all out. Just remove the 2 x 2s. Run flat 2 x 4s the full length on each side so now we would have the 2 ladder sides. Then toe nail flat 2 x 4s across to join the 2 sides underneath the soffit. As long as both ends of the ladders are attached somewhere, it shouldn’t move. There’s also some wood splitting in some areas. The most serious is on the soffit.

    HVAC and water heater is a high efficiency system but louver bifold doors will be installed. 60” wide opening so two 30” doors. To the right small 24” louver bifold door. This is just for storage. There won’t be a wall divider in between so I probably didn’t need this smaller door but I asked for it. Storage under steps will have a 36” barn door.

    Tv will be a LG G1 flush mount for those of you are familiar. Cardboard cutout is the exact size of the tv. The electrician who does tv installs actually added those 2 x 6 supports for the flush mount that comes with that tv. Tv will fit tight. The fireplace tv cabinet underneath is 38” high so not a lot of wiggle room height wise if I add a sound bar. You can see the top left corner of tv under the soffit. Not great. If I go with in wall speakers I could lower the tv several inches. This is all because we opened up the wall to make it easier to bring furniture into the room. It was really tight. That wall went all the way over to the right. Not a lot I can do here without closing the wall back up which I don’t want to do. I guess I could move it back over part of the way but I like the opening. A railing will be added. Hopefully something that I can remove easily if I need to. 4 pins and a Space Invaders will go on the long wall. Some high switched outlets for some neons. Sectional on the other long wall. Chexx bubble hockey under the window. This is all assuming the corrections will be made to my satisfaction.

    A couple other notes. Window box was added because we didn’t want the drop ceiling blocking the top of the window. Vertical stud to the left of that window has not been attached yet because we need to get up there to install a new water shut off valve for the outside hose. We’re going to revisit that box. The insulation hanging down is an eyesore. It came with the house. We’re putting in a drop ceiling. I have to tidy that up. Also the old furniture will be coming out of there this weekend. Circuit breaker box behind the studs has been removed. That’s an older picture.

    I was pretty stressed out. I’ve calmed down. Comments criticisms and suggestions definitely welcome.

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    #2 2 years ago

    That soffit is a mess. If you are putting on a railing, you may want something you can bolt on so you can remove when bringing down your pinballs.

    #3 2 years ago

    I have a couple comments, and btw I’m a general contractor/carpenter. You are right about the doorways, they should always be framed in a king/cripple stud config. Even if it’s not a supporting or structural doorway. The second stud will keep the door jamb rigid when attached to it. A single stud can flex tremendously.

    Next, I’ve never seen a soffit built like that ever, but I think I have an easy fix that will stiffen everything up without much effort. Add 1/2” ply to the faces and then add 2x bracing between the 2x2’s at the center of soffit bottom.

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    #4 2 years ago

    I'm happy to see you put the electrical line low and across the beams. I did the same thing and I got ripped apart by my brother who said it should go up and over but I feel that's a waste of copper. Did you have to do fire blocking? My town is big on that.

    #5 2 years ago
    Quoted from JayDee:

    I have a couple comments, and btw I’m a general contractor/carpenter. You are right about the doorways, they should always be framed in a king/cripple stud config. Even if it’s not a supporting or structural doorway. The second stud will keep the door jamb rigid when attached to it. A single stud can flex tremendously.
    Next, I’ve never seen a soffit built like that ever, but I think I have an easy fix that will stiffen everything up without much effort. Add 1/2” ply to the faces and then add 2x bracing between the 2x2’s at the center of soffit bottom.
    [quoted image]

    I think this is a good call. I would do the same.

    #6 2 years ago
    Quoted from Locomojo:

    That soffit is a mess. If you are putting on a railing, you may want something you can bolt on so you can remove when bringing down your pinballs.

    That’s exactly what I want for that.

    Quoted from JayDee:

    I have a couple comments, and btw I’m a general contractor/carpenter. You are right about the doorways, they should always be framed in a king/cripple stud config. Even if it’s not a supporting or structural doorway. The second stud will keep the door jamb rigid when attached to it. A single stud can flex tremendously.
    Next, I’ve never seen a soffit built like that ever, but I think I have an easy fix that will stiffen everything up without much effort. Add 1/2” ply to the faces and then add 2x bracing between the 2x2’s at the center of soffit bottom.
    [quoted image]

    This is a great suggestion. I’m going to suggest it. Thank you.

    Quoted from insight75:

    I'm happy to see you put the electrical line low and across the beams. I did the same thing and I got ripped apart by my brother who said it should go up and over but I feel that's a waste of copper. Did you have to do fire blocking? My town is big on that.

    Yes we had to do fire blocking. They’re big on it here also.

    #7 2 years ago

    I don't envy you having to tell a framer, or any tradesman, how to do their job.

    #8 2 years ago
    Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

    I don't envy you having to tell a framer, or any tradesman, how to do their job.

    You’re not kidding.

    #9 2 years ago

    If you're having issues at this stage, buy yourself a good 4' level and make sure that what's current done won't cause problems later. Also, make sure that things are square as well.

    #10 2 years ago

    The problem is everyone thinks they are a damn contractor now. Any idiot can get their license now without knowing how to do crap. My brother in law is a perfect example. He does not know crap, but has a crew of mexicans that do everything. If he was forced to actually have to do the work he would be screwed.

    #11 2 years ago

    For sure its good to be paying attention to ensure things are done right. Not everyone does this which is scary.

    #12 2 years ago
    Quoted from woody76:

    The problem is everyone thinks they are a damn contractor now. Any idiot can get their license now without knowing how to do crap. My brother in law is a perfect example. He does not know crap, but has a crew of mexicans that do everything. If he was forced to actually have to do the work he would be screwed.

    I would never hire a contractor without a referral or recommendation from friends or someone I trusted. Social media today also makes it pretty easy to search most any contractor and see what kind of work they do.

    I still find it hard to believe building inspector passed the framing shown in the pics.

    #13 2 years ago

    As one of the trades on many projects with others yes i hate to say this a very large group in any trade are not worth the spilled salt from french fries. Wasn't always like this but its gotten worse. Sadly some don't know or care. Its how cheap and fast now.
    Just yesterday was talking with a buddy different trade i work with he's having to pick up and drop off his helper each day. The helper left him a few yeas ago to get in to hazard remediation. Guy worked 2 years all certs and one day was sick of the hard work left a good pay job to deliver pizza. Then wrecked the car not long after that.
    He's only getting this guy because the other guy blew his leg up and cant walk. Also was telling me his still has almost 1 year backlog for work. His phone keeps ringing people wanting work. So when you find any trade that does it right hang on to them.

    #14 2 years ago

    Well they haven’t gotten to the soffit yet but all double studs have been corrected. Looks much better.

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    #15 2 years ago

    Much better crew here now. Soffit will be completely redone properly. This crew is cleaning up all the mistakes. I wish they were here a week ago.

    #16 2 years ago

    I guess they thought they could get away with halfassed workers. Glad you finally have the right crew on it now. You’ll be enjoying the game room in no time!

    #17 2 years ago
    Quoted from dmacy:

    I guess they thought they could get away with halfassed workers. Glad you finally have the right crew on it now. You’ll be enjoying the game room in no time!

    Thanks. I am so relieved. This crew has pretty much saved this disaster. By Monday everything should be fixed.

    #18 2 years ago

    When i do framing , i always put Jack studs betwen the vertical 2x4s in the middle for rigidity. Studs at 16 inch OC. Horizontal supports at 48 inch high. Did i miss something ? Am i wrong ?

    #19 2 years ago
    Quoted from modfather:

    When i do framing , i always put Jack studs betwen the vertical 2x4s in the middle for rigidity. Studs at 16 inch OC. Horizontal supports at 48 inch high. Did i miss something ? Am i wrong ?

    That’s usually only needed on support walls.

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